ChuckDaMaxRider

Alright this is kinda weird...my check engine light blinks in completely random patterns while I drive. Has anyone else had this happen? I thought if you had a CEL, it just stays solid while driving-- I thought it only blinks when you put the key in the 3rd position. Any advice? Thanks-Chuck

sterlingmaxima

iTrader: (16)

misfire bro most likely coil problem

ChuckDaMaxRider

Update!
When I turn the key into the 3rd position the CEL doesn't blink- it stays solid. Isn't this normal, as every other light stays solid? Then, when I start the car up completely there is no CEL at all. Kinda weird, seeing as how I did nothing to re-set the light.

BTW I'm having acceleration problems- when RPMs go up I don't see my MPH go up in good enough proportion. Also, I usually have rough starts, my friend tells me it's all the MAF for these two problems-- so I'm getting a new mass air flow sensor and I might get a new throttle position sensor. Good idea?

Pimpmobile

iTrader: (1)

only replace the maf or the tps if they are truly at fault, test them

ChuckDaMaxRider

Sorry I'm dumb lol...how do you test them?

NyCzBuBBa

iTrader: (10)

maybe you need coil packs?

maxmiles

It sounds like a trans problem. The trans is starting in fail safe. Go drive the car and count the shifts. You should have 3 shifts/4 gears.
Is it the AT light flashing??

ChuckDaMaxRider

The tranny is fine...I had the tranny fluid changed 3000 miles ago...sometimes it will take til 3000 RPMs to shift to 3rd gear and sometimes I 'feel' the shift a bit too much- although this goes away the more the car has warmed up. I swear, with this cold New England weather my Max just gets problems left and right now. Or maybe it's just cuz it has 124K miles on it. The fact the engine 'breathes' very well with some of my mods, with the cold weather, and with tons of miles on it I'm strongly thinking it's the mass air flow sensor. Could be the coil packs or throttle position sensor too I guess. Beats me.

Pimpmobile

iTrader: (1)

ok, since im in a good mood and a bit trashed ill be nice and look it up. It probably a good idea to pick up a manual

the maf is tested by
checking the ground/power pins with an ohm meter
disconect the maf and attach positive lead of the meter to the red wire in the harness connector
turn the ignitoin on but dont start
the meter should show battery voltage (12-13v usually)
then backprobe the white wire on the maf connecter & ground the other lead
turn the car to on
it should indicate 1v
start the car it should read 1v-1.7v at idle and 1.7 up to 3.0 under power

the TPS is a
check charge as above
should read 5v when car on not start
attach the meter to terminal # 2 and 3 (these are the right 2 when looking at the from the outside into the TB)
should read.5k ohms throttle closed/4k ohms at WOT

Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

NO NO NO.......
A blinking signal on OBD II computers is a type A Misfire. It damages the catalyst within 100-200 miles of it happening. It blinks because it is very serious, the cat could explode under your car due to unburned gas collecting in the CAT. It is saying DONT drive me.

So dont, and get that fixed before you blow your exhaust piping.

ChuckDaMaxRider

I don't have any catalytic converters..how do you fix this problem?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Before you change anything check for stored error codes in your ECU. A blinking CEL means you have a misfire. Follow the instructions here--- http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931 See what codes come out, they most likely will point twards an ignition problem, if your lucky it will identify which cylinder is at fault.

The CEL will not blink for problems with MAF, TPS, O2's, temp sensors or evap issues. It will only blink while driving, usually under a load, for ignition misfires.

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

the blinking is saying you have a misfire. just 1 or maybe more. check for codes, and start from there. it will tell you a code and match it up with the one on the stickies. cause can include


Fuel Injectors (long flat head test)
Ignition Coils (ohm them out)
Fuel Filter (just replace this)

ChuckDaMaxRider

Hey thanks for all the help, I just did the self-diagnosis.
Code 05 05- no diagnosis. Very odd. I counted the blinks many times just to make sure I had this right cuz if it was something like 06 05 that would mean I have a misfire in cylinder 4! I'll re-set it and see if anything comes back on when I drive for a bit. If nothing comes on would you say I am out of the woods?

matty

iTrader: (54)

Ya....could have been some bad gas

-matt

TonyGotSkilz

iTrader: (6)

Just happened to me too, it was a misfire on #6. At first it would just come on occasionally and blink for awhile and go off, then after like a day or two it did it again and stayed on and i started to get symptoms of misfiring. I don't think it will actually throw a code unless it comes on static eventually, and even then the code goes away if it doesn't happen after your next trip (if your problem is intermittent like mine is). But if it does come on static try to check your codes immediately that should help, if it doesn't come back on in a few days your out of the woods.

ChuckDaMaxRider

Hey thanx for the info...drove 20 miles today and no light yet. I'll check it for codes in a few days even if nothing comes on. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's nothing TOO serious, luckily I do have the $$ right now to fix it even if it is a bit serious.

ChuckDaMaxRider

Maybe it's that stupid Marvel Myster Oil I put in my gas tank. Although I did that like 10 days ago and have since added about 16 gallons. I always put premium in.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I ran a can of Marvel Mystery Oil in a tank of gas on a trip from NJ to VT. The car ran awsome and I got over 400 miles on that tank.

ChuckDaMaxRider

Bump...anymore opinions?

cricketsmaxima95

I just wanna thank EVERYONE who has posted on this. Ive had my fourth gen for three years now an I take it to car shows an win first place most of the time. I wanted to cry when I saw a "Blinking check engine light" I thought it was all over for my baby. I ran the codes using the ecu screw by the gas pedal under the dash an got my service codes saying. ( Miss fire, 02 sensor, and nok sensor) turned out being a ignition coil. I bought a kit online for only $100 came with all 6 new coils an I re set the computer with that same ecu screw an no light at all now im on 300k in my max an still goin. NISSAN is forever!

Shift_A32B

iTrader: (14)

I'm surprised you haven't gotten the infamous P1320.

02maxima76

I am the proud owner of an 02 Max that has unfortunately, contracted a nasty virus... As I reach 3-3.5k rpms in 2nd gear and above, my car stops accelerating and starts to sputter/hesitates as if something was clogged or preventing it from further accelerating. It's almost like a popping, red lined sound, real nasty sounding. I put new plugs but the not wires/coils(stupid me being cheap lol), and a new fuel filter in it with no change to the problem. I have to let off the pedal slightly for it to shift/accelerate. It takes about roughly 35-40 seconds to reach 60mph. The cat is about 2yrs old and was put on with a new exhaust. I have an Injen cold air intake as well, if that would cause anything. My next guess is either the coils/wires, an old vacuum hose getting pinched at high RPMs or something cat related. It feels/sounds like it's a trans problem tho the way it stops at 3.5k rpms like a Rev limiter is kicking in or something. Any thoughts? Please help, I love my Max and don't want to see her go....

mr_maxima1

It sounds like ur mas air flow sensor

JvG

Agreed on the MAP sensor.

You have 5th gen Maxima. You are in the 4th gen forum. You will find more specific help in the 5th gen forum.

02maxima76

Oh crap, my bad. Thanks for responding tho fellas ^-^