Jacks

In regard to buying a new car I am so green and sooo out of my comfort zone as I have had my current car for 15.5 years....

I have to work out the best internet site to use for pricing out my car before speaking to a dealer. I would like a Gun Metal (or Silver) Platinum Maxima with Charcoal interior.

I know about Truecar as both AMEX and AllState sent me emails over the last year telling me they work with them, and I know about Edmunds but that is it.

And it also seems from reading this site that the MSRP differs depending on where you live - is that correct? If so - how do you deal with that - esp. if you want the best price and are willing to travel a little bit to get the car? Do you just keep putting in different zip codes?

If anyone has any advice on this then it could not fall on more willing ears then mine. I need to be as prepared as I can be before I take a deep breath, steel my shoulders and enter the arena to face the Car Salesmen Demons.

Thank you in advance to any responders.

mrgooch

My last purchase was 1 1/2 years ago. I use TruCar and Blue Book prices which differed. I showed that to the salesperson and told him that I averaged them out to what I thought was a fair price for both of us.
Be prepared as the more knowledgeable you are the more the salesperson will respect you.
The bottom line is you have the cash and they don't and there are more than one dealership. Good Luck.

Jacks

Thank you mrgooch, very helpful advice

mrgooch

Also let the dealer no right away that you want to buy a car. The first words to the salesperson from me were " I want you to sell me a car ". Salespeople don't like to spend time with shoppers looking for a price.Remember you are not obligated in anyway and never leave a deposit unless you definitely want the car.
Another point-Often the car you want will come with an option that you don't want. If this is the only car they have for you then they must offer a much better price for the included option.

WasDmater

I would use the invoice price of the car plus the invoice price of the accessories posted in this forum. Add the invoice price of the car plus the accessories and the result should be your target price. You should be able to get this price or close to it.


The internet sites like Edmunds, CarGurus, Truecar, Carsdirect, KBB are all over the place right now because there is not enough history and their prices right now are higher than what you can get the car for.


Shoot for invoice price and you will do fine. Especially now that there are no incentives form the manufacturer.




Good luck

Jacks

Thank you both for the helpful advice. I will let them know I want to actually buy (the truth) at a Fair Price (not use the word lowest) and have the invoice prices added up and with me to use as the basis for negotiation. Or, I may use the pricing to write to the Internet Manager to make the transaction like another person o. This forum does...and avoid salespeople all together . I will not take the Internet sites pricing as gospel but will use the invoice pricing post earlier in this forum.

I cannot thank you all enough..look at how much I have learned in 24 hrs.

scottatl

I am not a big fan of this advice. Pick out a low price, who cares if it is fair or not, that is up to the dealer. And I certainly could not care less if the dealer "respects me". Once you know what you want and what you will pay, which includes all the junk fees email a dealer or two. Tell them this offer stands until one of the dealers you are working with accepts it. If you have something to point to like this site or trucars that might help, but if she/he knows where you stand then the next move is the dealers.

You want to be on the low side, not the "fair" side. I want to sell to people that want to make sure I get a fair deal, I call them suckers....

scottatl

One site I like is autotrader.com. Sometimes dealers will put teaser cars on it for low prices. You can purchase one of those if you like it or make a dealer an offer based on that price.

Stuff like invoice does not mean much. There are so many hidden incentives to the dealers that we have no idea what they pay, and in fact we should not care we just care about getting the lowest price that we can.

cnp

There are various strategies, some mentioned. A couple other considerations:
1) Sometimes dealer websites will have deals on in-stock cars. Here in St. Louis, despite the car being a new model, there were online incentives going over $2000 off MSRP only for in stock units. Find your model/color/interior via an inventory search. Now, of course, the trick is there could be a hefty "dealer add-on" to the MSRP that negates any deal.
2) A trick I've done with very good result is to email the internet or fleet managers in a zone as far as I was willing to go for a pick up. In the midwest, I will search St. Louis, Chicago, KC, and some of the smaller towns, whatever you are willing to drive for pick up. I sometimes email 10-20. Give them a specific model/color, and ask for their best price. Take the top 3 or so bids, work them on the phone. Have your financing secure, no trade ins to muddy the picture for now. Once you have your deal you like, have that person email you the details of the agreement, to include the car, preferably VIN or stock number if they have on the lot, verification of color/interior/options and OUT THE DOOR PRICE. Then go and pick up.
In my case of my SL, I didn't play this game but used the Edmund's pricing discount on the specific stock # (there was only one in St. Louis Gunmetal/Cashmere) and got $1300 off MSRP which I was OK with given model out two weeks, and I wasn't in the mood to wait this out for a better deal. If I was willing to wait some months, I would expect to extract a better deal.
Hope this helps... .

mrgooch

Tell them this offer stands until one of the dealers you are working with accepts it.
And what do you do if months go by and you don't have an accepted price. Words like a Fair offer are simply tools of negotiating. You should be smart enough to know what a fair deal is before making the statement. You can try to strong arm the salesman or negotiate with him.To each his own.

Jacks

Still learning and still thanking you all! I really appreciate this education.

WasDmater

I do not think the MSRP differs depending on where you live. Its the same everywhere. It only changes depending on the accessories that come installed from the factory.


For example, the MSRP will differ in a Platinum if ones comes with Splash Guards and the Mats and another comes with Splash Guards, Mats, 18 inch alloy wheels, Premium spoiler. There will be a difference in MSRP because ones comes with more accessories from the manufacturer, other wise, the base MSRP is the same.


Now, the dealer might add a premium to the MSRP based on things they themselves have added or things they wish to sell, or simply because they add a markup to the MSRP.


Or, they can advertise a discount from MSRP because they wish to move the car, but in all cases, the MSRP stays the same and comes from the manufacturer.


Al least, that is my understanding of this.

scottatl

Mr. Gooch.

I cannot believe that telling a sales person "you are looking for fair price not the lowest" will ever be to your advantage.

Regarding you being worried about "let the offer stand until accepted". What? Do you think the dealer would actually come back and sue you if you did not take his offer a month later. Either you are joking or you rather have the easy purchase than the best price.

Nothing wrong with going for the easy purchase but if you are looking for the best price it takes a bit of work. I am not talking about nickle and dime stuff, but hundreds and thousands ....

I would not even have replied but the person posting thought you were giving good advice so it might have cost him a bundle.

WasDmater

For example, in your case, you would like a Gun Metal (Silver) with charcoal interior. And lets say you only want Splash Guards and the Mats as accessories.


The MSRP on this would be 41,095 including destination fee of 825.00.


The Invoice price would be: 38,353. This would represent a savings of 2742.00 if you would buy it at this price.


Also, there is a holdback that reduces the price paid by the dealer. This is different depending in the state you live in and the car you are buying.


In florida, this holdback for a Nissan is 3% off Invoice price, In other states, it could be 3% of MSRP. The percentage could also vary depending on make and state.


You could offer invoice less the holdback if the dealer is willing to sell at that price.


There could be also hidden incentives to dealers, but if we don't know what they are it makes negotiating for a lower price a shot in the dark.

xUNIxPanther

Do you guys think there will be a lot of used 8th gen maximas by feb of 2016? Thats when i will be in the market for one and not sure wether to get a 2014 SV premium package and stuff or get a used 8th gen. if the price was right.. wish I had a crystal ball that could tell me what i could get a used 8th gen maxima in february because i wont be able to purchase one for more than 28,000 hopefully being used it would drop the price to that or lower.. fingers crossed.

WasDmater

Not sure, but you cannot go wrong getting a brand new 2014 for probably up to 11,500 off MSRP.

NissanFreak2000

I wouldn't expect the used 2016 inventory to be that great. However, if you waited until the 2017 were about to come out then you could probably pick up a 2016 for a pretty good deal! However, you might be able to find a dealership that has a used one that they could have been using for dealership errands. Be patient and I think you will find the 8th gen in your price point, it will be totally worth it as the 8th gen is an amazing machine. Good luck.

xUNIxPanther

Thank you for the response, I think you are absolutely right. I think I will wait through out the summer of 2016 and wait for a great deal on one im so excited, may have to stop at a dealership and check one of these babies out soon.