Ways to battle CV axles failures
04-10-2012, 06:00 PM
#46
on my buddy's evo, since he does a ton of road course racing, he uses Whiteline Roll Centers so that his control arms/axles are straight. Maybe something to look into.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1
04-10-2012, 08:26 PM
#47
on my buddy's evo, since he does a ton of road course racing, he uses Whiteline Roll Centers so that his control arms/axles are straight. Maybe something to look into.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1
The only real way to help the axles it to raise the engine/trans or rotate them forward so the inner axle centerline is higher. Both are easier said than done.
Negative camber will help a little with the outer CVs but theres nothing you can do outside raising/rotating the drivetrain for the inner CVs.
04-10-2012, 09:03 PM
#48
you know what? after thinking about it, i figured i was wrong about them lol. but i always had Raxles axles so never really had an issue.
off topic, but did you buy Henry's I30? i saw a write up somewhere and the car looked super familiar
off topic, but did you buy Henry's I30? i saw a write up somewhere and the car looked super familiar
Last edited by emdot; 04-10-2012 at 09:05 PM.
04-10-2012, 09:44 PM
#49
Basically the axle solution cannot be solved so easily, the regime that they work within are set in stone with the drivetrain layout and chassis design. The engine and transmission sit at a certain height and the wheel hubs sit at a height determined by the rolling diameter of the tires. This is a problem with all FWD & AWD cars that have Macpherson front suspensions.
1. Easiest solution - Don't go slow low, 1 ~ 1.5" drop at most, convert to the 6 speed manual or use Raxles if you need new axles. This has worked for my car and I've been on the same pair of Raxle rebuilt axles for 6 years!
2. Run shorter tires - this helps to reduce the axle deflection angles but the ugly wheel gap comes back. I do run shorter R compound tires on the road course for more aggresive gearing, makes the control arms sit parallel to the ground (on my car at least), lowers the car a little more, and to reduce some of the axle stress under track conditions. Shorter tires do mess with scrub radius but I haven't noticed any difference.
(going into the twilight zone now)
3. Raise the engine/transmission with custom brackets and modify the Y pipe - Then deal with the even more sh*tty suspension geometery (if your already this low you don't really care about handling). However if you do care about handling get adjustable tie rods & LCAs and/or modify the subframe to correct the suspension geometery.
4. Find a different transmission housing that fits - highly unlikely but maybe there is another Japanese or Korean FWD I4 or V6 transmission out there that has the axle stubs sitting higher than the Maxima transmissions. Make a custom passenger side axle bracket and create a some kind of Franken transmission that has a taller axle stub height, works with the Maxima axles, and bolts up to VQ. You would be the hero of the slammed Maximas crew.
1. Easiest solution - Don't go slow low, 1 ~ 1.5" drop at most, convert to the 6 speed manual or use Raxles if you need new axles. This has worked for my car and I've been on the same pair of Raxle rebuilt axles for 6 years!
2. Run shorter tires - this helps to reduce the axle deflection angles but the ugly wheel gap comes back. I do run shorter R compound tires on the road course for more aggresive gearing, makes the control arms sit parallel to the ground (on my car at least), lowers the car a little more, and to reduce some of the axle stress under track conditions. Shorter tires do mess with scrub radius but I haven't noticed any difference.
(going into the twilight zone now)
3. Raise the engine/transmission with custom brackets and modify the Y pipe - Then deal with the even more sh*tty suspension geometery (if your already this low you don't really care about handling). However if you do care about handling get adjustable tie rods & LCAs and/or modify the subframe to correct the suspension geometery.
4. Find a different transmission housing that fits - highly unlikely but maybe there is another Japanese or Korean FWD I4 or V6 transmission out there that has the axle stubs sitting higher than the Maxima transmissions. Make a custom passenger side axle bracket and create a some kind of Franken transmission that has a taller axle stub height, works with the Maxima axles, and bolts up to VQ. You would be the hero of the slammed Maximas crew.
04-11-2012, 05:03 AM
#50
05-24-2012, 02:11 PM
#51
Longer ball joint and tie rod (studs only) will improve suspension geometry on lowered cars but won't change the angle of the axles. The hub and inner axle CVs are still in the same positions.
The only real way to help the axles it to raise the engine/trans or rotate them forward so the inner axle centerline is higher. Both are easier said than done.
Negative camber will help a little with the outer CVs but theres nothing you can do outside raising/rotating the drivetrain for the inner CVs.
The only real way to help the axles it to raise the engine/trans or rotate them forward so the inner axle centerline is higher. Both are easier said than done.
Negative camber will help a little with the outer CVs but theres nothing you can do outside raising/rotating the drivetrain for the inner CVs.
05-25-2012, 06:55 AM
#52
Rotating would be modding the mounts to have the top of the engine rotated forward so the axle centerline is higher.
With this (assuming you address interference issues) you don't need to raise the whole drivetrain. You could raise the rear and drop the front or just raise the rear.
With this (assuming you address interference issues) you don't need to raise the whole drivetrain. You could raise the rear and drop the front or just raise the rear.
06-08-2012, 10:56 AM
#53
Rotating would be modding the mounts to have the top of the engine rotated forward so the axle centerline is higher.
With this (assuming you address interference issues) you don't need to raise the whole drivetrain. You could raise the rear and drop the front or just raise the rear.
With this (assuming you address interference issues) you don't need to raise the whole drivetrain. You could raise the rear and drop the front or just raise the rear.
EDIT: wait, now that i think about it this wouldnt work because your just rotating the motor and keeping the same height placement
Last edited by MaxiNone; 06-08-2012 at 10:59 AM.
06-09-2012, 08:02 AM
#55
06-10-2012, 07:43 AM
#56
I'm with most, I would like a fix for the axles... I read about this whole suspension geometry but I'd like to know how did you guys know it would mess that up?... Was this tested or is this some "in theory" type thing?.... I personally won't be going to any auto x more do I need any advance handling, the only purpose for me buying coilovers is to rediculously slam the car... As long as the daily 50-80mph driving is still possible then I'd like to know if raising the motor helps saving the axles...
06-11-2012, 12:00 PM
#57
I'm with most, I would like a fix for the axles... I read about this whole suspension geometry but I'd like to know how did you guys know it would mess that up?... Was this tested or is this some "in theory" type thing?.... I personally won't be going to any auto x more do I need any advance handling, the only purpose for me buying coilovers is to rediculously slam the car... As long as the daily 50-80mph driving is still possible then I'd like to know if raising the motor helps saving the axles...
06-11-2012, 07:19 PM
#58
when you lower a max it messes with the axle angle, the suspension geometery has nothing to do with the axle angle. i've been pondering this for a while before i came across a couple of threads on this subject, Raising the engine is the only logical thing to do. its more of a "theory" at the mean time only because know one has done it.
here is a decent idea someone shared with me, having to do custom motor mounts to where its poly filled n somehow fabbed to where the inserts are higher to bolt up, im sure that can give about .3" which to me seems like all that would be sacrificed is the use of a FSTB under the hood, that along with some raxles should do the trick i would hope... just an idea that sounds good... IMO at least
06-13-2012, 12:07 PM
#59
yea, or custom control arms i would think, but IIRC here is a NYC maxima that have done this before...
here is a decent idea someone shared with me, having to do custom motor mounts to where its poly filled n somehow fabbed to where the inserts are higher to bolt up, im sure that can give about .3" which to me seems like all that would be sacrificed is the use of a FSTB under the hood, that along with some raxles should do the trick i would hope... just an idea that sounds good... IMO at least
here is a decent idea someone shared with me, having to do custom motor mounts to where its poly filled n somehow fabbed to where the inserts are higher to bolt up, im sure that can give about .3" which to me seems like all that would be sacrificed is the use of a FSTB under the hood, that along with some raxles should do the trick i would hope... just an idea that sounds good... IMO at least
06-14-2012, 08:18 PM
#60
ive come across 2 idea, one is making/fabbing some mount brackets/spacers to raise the motor and/or refab some new mounts (by adding to excisting subframe mounts/mount brackets). second is getting stock mounts and moving the mounting points high(for the subframe mounts) and lower (for the bay mounts) and use poly to fill up the mounts. but that will only get me about .5in, IMO, but not enough to avoid axles breaking
besides, teh guy that was supposed to fab mounts and **** never came back on this forum..
08-16-2012, 12:15 PM
#65
you guys are silly. why dont you just find a car that has the aftermarket support of being properly lowered to whatever drop you want? instead of this thing you call a Maxima that is not meant to be dumped like that nor even has the aftermarket support to drop more than a few inches... and save you all the headache. 
Last edited by MrDicks95SE; 08-16-2012 at 12:17 PM.
04-17-2014, 07:08 PM
#70
Bumping this..
I got tired of axle vibes shaking the steering wheel under load so I did what I suggested in this thread a few years back.
On the rear mount only, I slotted the stock holes, took 1/2" washers and welded them a 1/2" down from the stock hole location. I probably could have went higher without clearance issues. But, this is as far as I would go with washers. The front and sides would need to be raised too. My side mounts are stock.. I think they'll be ok with the 1/2" but we'll see.
So far so good. The vibes aren't completely gone but it's much much better.
I got tired of axle vibes shaking the steering wheel under load so I did what I suggested in this thread a few years back.
On the rear mount only, I slotted the stock holes, took 1/2" washers and welded them a 1/2" down from the stock hole location. I probably could have went higher without clearance issues. But, this is as far as I would go with washers. The front and sides would need to be raised too. My side mounts are stock.. I think they'll be ok with the 1/2" but we'll see.
So far so good. The vibes aren't completely gone but it's much much better.
09-29-2014, 02:04 AM
#75
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 427
if u check my album, I've been busy building many things for the maxima
... only had a CEL for the bank2 cat, no biggy
10-09-2014, 12:54 PM
#78
I don't really have anything conclusive with I what I did to tell if it's adding to the life of the axles.
My inner CV boot ripped on the passenger side after 2k, maybe 1500 miles since I did the rear mount mod. It's hard to say if the rubber was old, something hit it or what. I only noticed because I was replacing the rack. The driver's side is good though. I just haven't been putting many miles on the car due to motorcycle weather. I might have something to report back with after the winter.
My inner CV boot ripped on the passenger side after 2k, maybe 1500 miles since I did the rear mount mod. It's hard to say if the rubber was old, something hit it or what. I only noticed because I was replacing the rack. The driver's side is good though. I just haven't been putting many miles on the car due to motorcycle weather. I might have something to report back with after the winter.
10-17-2014, 08:24 AM
#79
So that axle lasted like 30 miles under hard driving. They've all been autopart international. I compared my new API axle to the ones that used to last me 5k or so and they're definitely made by a different manufacturer.
I almost went for getting the dealership to order one for me.. but couldn't justify the $5-600 on something with no warranty. After searching on here I decided to try napa new but they only had remans.. I needed the car done so I went that route.
Once installed there was much less vibration than the last few autopart international axles. After the test drive I also found out that my left side front BC coil over spun down a 1/4" compared to my drivers. I raised it a 1/2" at the coil and 1/4" on the driver's to match and re-aligned the car. We'll see how this goes..
I almost went for getting the dealership to order one for me.. but couldn't justify the $5-600 on something with no warranty. After searching on here I decided to try napa new but they only had remans.. I needed the car done so I went that route.
Once installed there was much less vibration than the last few autopart international axles. After the test drive I also found out that my left side front BC coil over spun down a 1/4" compared to my drivers. I raised it a 1/2" at the coil and 1/4" on the driver's to match and re-aligned the car. We'll see how this goes..