95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

No ES bushings but my LCAs are Moog with less than 3k, rack is a AC Delco reman with about 100 miles. And about 100 miles on Moog outer tie rods.

00Lightsout

good setup!! Keep the ES LCA bushings will change your life

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

Update. After about 1000 miles the passenger CVs started clicking.

I decided to try and buy a new OEM axle but everywhere I called said they were no longer available.

I called up The Driveshaft Shop to see what they could do for me.. They made custom axles for my 6-speed manual Bonneville just over a year ago and the fitment was on point. I found an OEM axle on ebay for $50 shipped and had it sent to them. I'm going to take measurements of the axle length at ride height this weekend and they're going to build an axle with a custom length shaft (between CVs) and higher quality bearings/cages in the CVs. It may end up being cheaper than OEM too.

FWIW I think I've got 6-7k on the driver's side axle w/out issue.

I'll keep you guys posted.

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

I got on my buddy's alignment rack, popped the axle out of the knuckle, set the car back down, and got the ride height trans seal to wheel bearing seal measurements The Driveshaft Shop requested. 31.5" overall. I also measured 17" from the back of the inner bearing cup to the wheel bearing seal.

When I compared them to a spare axle, I still had an inch before the axle is fully compressed. So, binding from axle length is not an issue in my case.

I could have went 300m center and their internals for $400. They cut shafts in 1/8" increments too. Tad at the Driveshaft Shop asked if I've ever broken the shaft before and if not suggested that I may just want to go with the cheaper alternative of rebuilding the OEM axle I sent them for $100.

I decided to go with the latter since I'm staying n/a and have no plans for slicks. The advantage over a typical remain would be no cutting of the bearing cups, OEM or better quality internals, and better boots.

This sounds similar to what Raxles used to provide.

I'll update after install.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

$100 isn't bad at all! Good to know for sure.

AlexxSCM

iTrader: (2)

should have looked at this thread before raising the damn car.

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

A little update.

The center bearing on the drive shaft shop axle ****thebed maybe after 100 miles.

I called NAPA up to return an axle I bought back in October. It's what I had in the car before I put the DDS axle in. It has a 3 year/36k mile warrantied axle but they are apparently stuck in the dark ages. They require a receipt even though it was purchased with a CC. They can't look up the CC transaction and won't accept a CC statement with the correct amount. Thanks NAPA. Angry white guy letter in the works.

I picked up a 'Tough One' axle from Advance since it's one of the few I haven't tried yet and I needed to get my car rolling again. There's a lot more vibration than the rebuilt DSS axle I pulled.. I'm not expecting this one to last very long.

I'm probably going to send the DSS axle back to have the center bearing replaced and have them check the play in the CVs.

I'll keep you guys posted.

Dailydrivenmaxima

I have always driven a maxima as my daily. Recently a friend of mine informed me that Nissan 240sx s13 suspension (coilovers) fits on a maxima. So I tried it, and to my surprise it does fit. Well, at least it bolts up. Set the car down and checked clearances and nothing touches, nothing rubs. However, I think this drop may have broken the passenger side CV axle as there is a clicking sound under Throttle. What's weird to me is it seems so go away after Highway speed driving. I just did this swap last night. My question seems the same as everyone else. What can you do to not have failing cv axles with having a decent drop on my car. I'm also wondering why I have found no info on this topic anywhere else on the Web but have been seeing pictures of slammed maximas for years and years.
Btw my car is 4th Gen. 98

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

Just a little update from my end.

The passenger side axle I installed back in Feb is still holding up but I've only got about 3k miles on it.
(p/n NCV53532)
I did make 6-7 track passes with 2.0 launches and DRs in that time period though.

The plan was/is to drive on it till it lets loose then install the driveshaft shop one with a new center bearing.

I'll let you guys know when it goes.

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

At just under 4k, the passenger side Tough One axle is starting to let go. Also after about 8k the Autopart International driver's side axle has a bit of play also.

The plan is to put a Tough One driver's axle in since the TO outlasted the API I had on the passenger side, and put the Driveshaft Shop rebuilt OEM axle in on the passenger side. I still need to put a good center bearing in on the DSS axle though.

Cliffs so far:

Driver's side axle -
API lasted 7/8k

Passenger side axle -
API failed after couple hundred miles
Napa failed after 2k
DSS rebuilt OEM had less vibration, center bearing wasn't replaced and failed at a couple hundred miles
TO NCV53532 axle lasted 4k

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

The passenger DSS axle was making noise again. Honestly I'm not sure if it's the bearing shields rubbing, the center bearing I transferred from the TO axle or what. All I know is I wasn't dealing with it. So I put another TO NCV53532 axle in and the noise is gone. Hope to at lease get another 4k+ out of this one.

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

I'm not trying to be critical so please don't take it that way. I like the look of lowered cars. After saying that however, 4K is all the mileage you're getting out of axels?? That seems like a tremendous amount of work and money to only get 4K out of. How low is your car. Sorry you may have a picture posted I'll go back and check if not can you post one?? Also I'm assuming with that little of mileage you must be slammed to the ground. So how is the ride quality? Does it really get rough or no?? One more thing with doing all the work involved and of course money wouldn't it help just to maybe bring it up a little to save yourself the headache? Or is that just something you cannot do? Please don't take my questions as an attack on what you like I'm just fascinated by this style of expression.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Raise the car

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

The only point of me posting my axle info is to let people know what brands last longer than others. I used to get API axles to last over 10k but they must have changed suppliers. All this was an attempt to get back to the 10k mark which would get me over 2 years but it didn't quite work out. Life happens.

Granted it's my time and money and I'm well aware of how I'm spending it, consider this:

1 passenger axle/year. $70/12 = >$6/mo
It takes me 2 hours for a no rush passenger side axle swap with no lift and I have access to one 6 days a week.

FWIW the DSS axle and new driver's axle went in last week with a clutch job so that was no extra effort.

It's a low 13 sec beater car on BCs. My 89 year old grandmom doesn't mind the ride quality so it can't be that harsh. I do run a taller tire because Philly pot holes so the body isn't crazy low. With stock size tires I scrape the cattman rear header loop.


I'm sure others have gone lower with less issue but I'm just not that lucky.

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

Car looks great bud. Local guy too. You don't seem ridiculously low. I see civics with the axels bowing the wheels up, so that doesn't seem too low. Maybe try cardone I think it's called over in philly. They re do oem axels they're down by the Betsy Ross bridge I believe.

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

^^Good info. If that place rebuilds OEMs without cutting the tripod, maybe I'll go that route next year.

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

Yes they do. I'll double check the name. But yea the rebuild oem and they have the dampeners on the ends and all.