Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

VQ30DE-K swap for Dummies Vq30DE-k swapped into A32 4th Gen Nissan Maxima
12-6-2007





Intro:
Shout out to the Maxima Brotherhood ! Im Ceasar, and should probably change my username back to ceasars chariot as no one recognizes my username now. Thats my intake (see photo above) and sadly enough Franky (my intake) knows more about mechanics than me Still a sorry site though.

If you dont have any mechanical might, and plan on attempting a VQ30DE-K swap I hope this VQ30DE-K swap for Dummies thread will aid in helping you through the process. While the thread matures I will take the time to add a links section, linking many of threads regarding this subject into this one.

Before we are done here, there should be plenty of questions regarding the VQ30DE and VQ30DE-K. What bits we need, what work arounds we might have to do, any prep thats needed, what mods can we switch over (like a UDP for example) and of course problem solving should any issues arrive.

Also plenty of ignorant questions you've been afraid to ask will more than likely be asked in this thread saving you from embarrassment, being flamed and possibly even banned, lol !

There should also be other interesting information regarding the A32-A33 Maxima and/or engine. I like weighing things for example, so there should be some extra nuggets lying around for you Maxima sponges.

How I got Here:
I suppose there are several roads that would lead A32 owners to swapping in a DE-K. While the VQ35DE is a hot swap, and very popular at the moment on maxima.org. This thread is strictly for the VQ30DE-K swap, as some owners like myself may not find themselves in a position to bump up to the 3.5L.

Im ending up doing the DE-K swap because back when I did the 00VI swap it turned out cheaper to buy a whole engine than just the bits. Last weekend I over reved the DE drag racing and she aint running (oil pump failure, no oil pressure, bearings shot, etc). So being on a tight budget and the DE-K sitting in the garage it was my best option.

Lets Get Started, you will be out and thrashing around in the DE-K swapped Max in no time !

VQ30DE-K SWAP Links Section:
Trouble Shooting : Swapped in DE-K low end power loss
Dandymax Aftermarket Cams on DE-K
00vi doesnt work after motor dek motor swap
DE-K hard start
DE-K Swap - Vacuum Problems
DE-K Swap - running the hoses
DE-K Swap - how to eliminate all cels
Transmission Leak after DE-K Swap
DE-K swap help on air fuel metering code
What sensors do you have to switch from the DE to make the DE-K work?
After dek swap im getting knock sensor code
DE-K Idle Problem Thread
meximax completes antoher DE-K swap
rays95max questions about DE-K swap
matts95max Pt. 1. "Help On Dek Swap Im Stuck!!!!"
matts95max Pt. 2 "Progress of his DE-K Swap
VQ30DE-K and VQ30DE TPS the same?
Full DE-K motor swap complete - JeEvE
Problems with DEK swap
95-99 (DE) Block vs. 00-01 (DE-K) Block
DE-K swap vs 00VI Swap

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Im getting started doing some prep work. Removed the hood, a 12mm socket wrench does the trick removing the hood from the hinges. 12mm for the hood struts as well. Stillen front lip weighed in at 4 lbs. not much weight there, last weekend I removed the rear spoiler off the trunk to see if it was worth removing (weight reduction) for drag racing but it also only weighed 4 lbs.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Off the DE-K I started removing the manifolds since I have the Cattman Headers.



front heat shield removal: (9) 10 mm
front manifold removal: (6) 14 mm

note: i wonder what those 02 sensors + harness are worth ?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

what the heck is this ? need to label the hoses.

Photo 1


Answer: EVAP canister purge volume control valve - XAugusta MoonX +1

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

That would be the EVAP canister purge volume control valve.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Well Caesar, let's hope that between this guide and my website, nothing DE-K/00VI related should ever have to be asked about again

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

haha, this thread should give me a chuckle by wording alone..

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

^ so true I dont know what anything is called so I had to start a number system. cheers on the EVAP canister purge volume control valve. What im calling manifold, should that be called exhaust manifold ? From messing around with the 00VI swap its been very helpful in removing bits thus far.

Basically what im doing now is prep work, before next Thursday.
Question: On the stock pulley below (DE-K), is it as simple as taking it off, and replacing it with the unorthodox underdrive pulley ? I thought that would be another thing I could do in preparing the engine. So unscrew middle nut, pull off, and replace with the UR UDP. Or is there something else to it ?

Photo 2

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Regarding EGR

Presently on the VQ30DE all the egr crap has been tossed. As well as UIM blocked off. Now on the DE-K engine. I have the rear exhaust manifolds loose. Only thing holding them on is the EGR stuff.

What the heck is this thing ? Will I need to keep this or is it junk?

Photo 3

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Im assuming all the nasty, rusty, crusty egr stuff off the DE-K, every last bit of this gets removed? Can anyone confirm ?

Photo 4

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

KNOCK SENSOR ON DE-K

Regarding the knock sensor, is the DE and DE-K knock sensor interchangable ? Am I able to test the knock sensor to see if its any good before I do the swap ?

Photo 5

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Dec. 6th 2007


Any tips on what you do with all the wiring/harnesses. Im hoping that I can keep it together and get the engine out and then fit the DE-K in and wire it back up.

After the 00VI install most of the wiring was hidden away, and where dandymax had wired up the EU to the Vias there was no way i wanted to touch that. So hoping I can keep all those wires just like they are. Certainly had to go out of my way to slip the UIM off today but got the job done.

Ive untightened most of the bolts on the headers. Dandymax suggested leaving them on the engine, and disconnecting the ypipe section. Still not sure how this is going to end up but will proceed until I figure out it wasnt the best idea or whatever.

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

The UDP is interchangeable, as far as I know. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. So yes, just swap it out. All that EGR stuff, including the black sensor, toss unless you want to use it. Since you didn't before, I would assume you don't want to now. You can check the resistance on the Knock Sensor and reuse it or sell it if you want to. My Chilton says continuity should exist between the knock sensor and a ground. So switch that puppy to 20 MegaOhms and check to see ".000". And finally, try to keep your original wiring harness intact as much as possible.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

For the wiring, just start at the ends near drivers side and work your way over disconnecting everything & undoing all the zip-ties, clips, & holders. It will lay on the passanger side struttower/fender area when you are done.

I took a bunch of pics for you last night showing the easy way to drop it, I left my camera at the garage though, I'll upload them tonight and start a thread. Had it sitting on the shop floor in front of the car with no help in 3hr's.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

cheers, be sure to post a link to the thread in here. dont want to miss that. again im just doing prep work so a friend of mine can do the swap.

I found out today the DE-K had 49,709 miles on it. I got to laughing as my old VQ30DE cashed out at 173,000 miles plus some change.

I had some dumb questions I asked dandymax a week ago I wanted to share in the thread.

1. Engine came out of Maxima that was an automatic. Does this even matter since mine is manual ?

- No, just bolt your flywheel/PP/clutch up instead of the auto stuff.

2. Wiring the electrical stuff and engine stuff up. Not a clue on this. Would I just leave the ecu/greddy eu setup on the inside of the car the same, and on the engine side of things, do you just hook up all that wiring to the engine?

-Really shouldn't be much (if any) rewiring necessary, since you've already done what was needed for the VI swap (assuming you used the 5th gen injectors right? I think you did IIRC....). Basically all you'd need to do is pull the old engine, swap the the flywheel/PP/clutch over, swap the outer accessories (for you only alternator lol), swap the 5th gen parts you've already got on now back over, and re-route/re-mount the vacuum/air lines and EGR,EVAP,MAP solenoids (the DEK has a different coolant log and vacuum galleries. Your (cousin?) who did your swap the first time should be able to handle this no problem. As always contact me if you need help, I just did all this a few months ago remember..

3. I dont know the condition of the engine, when doing a swap do you just take a chance and do the swap and see if it cranks up ? lol

-Knowing what you have for tools not much you can do for compression tests except turn it over by hand a few times. It's probably fine but you could get your cousin to do a leakdown test first on it to verify.

Would I need a retune on the greddy eu side of things for the new engine ?

-No, shouldn't be much different, especially if you switch the DE intake cam into the DEK. Either way though what you've got now for a tune on the EU should be ok, the engine airflow differences will be minor, and you're still running a MAF setup so it'll know the mass of air unlike a pressure setup

4. Could I rightful use the DE-K red strip spark plug cover after a DE-K swap, lol

- If you want

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

What's the 00VI swap?

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=400691

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yep it's not as big a mess at it looks once you go through it.

Let me guess, hoist the engine & tranny, unbolt the side mounts and crossmember, drop it all to a dolley on the floor, then pick up the front of the car and wheel the dolly out from under. Well you need more space/headroom that way.

It can be done just as easily from the top as well (by yourself).

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

^ lol, sarcasm not found

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Chris, in photo 3, that's the electronic EGR on the DEK. If you ditched the EGR on the old engine then do exactly the same with the DEK.

The connectors for the DEK knock sensor are different, but you can use either setup (4th gen or 5th gen). To test it measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the KS, it should be between 500-620 k ohms (at 25C).

The headers do not need to come off the engine first before removal. There is plenty of room to get the engine out without removing them, whether you pull it out the top or drop it out the bottom it doesn't matter.

The UDP is interchangeable yes.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

LOL you got me.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

dan glad your here dude ! so if im understanding this correctly, I should be able to take out my A32 knock sensor and put it on the DE-K. If I can do this it would be easiest since I already know its in working order. ?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

off the DE-K pulled off the rear exhaust manifold and along with that came the EGR equipment. Weight: 15 lbs.

Front Exhaust Manifold: 24 lbs
Rear Exhaust Manifold: 15 lbs.
_________________________
Total: 39 lbs.

- - - - - - - -

Photo #6


any worries about taking some scissors and clipping this wire ? after 20 minutes of trying to beat the connectors apart still no luck

following the wire across to the little metal bit that screws into the egr stuff, after the 00VI swap I did, that little piece is just sitting in the engine bay, lol.

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Well if you don't want a CEL try to keep that EGR temp sensor. If not, whatever.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

Yeah just unscrew the sensor from the mani and tie it out of the way. Shouldn't throw a code that way.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yes that's the easiest way, just keep the existing KS and its sub-harness from the 4th gen.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Will do, I don't have time now, got severely delayed changing out the waterpump........ I became "that guy"......... You know, the one who drops the tensionor plunger & spring inside the timing cover..............

Don't be "that guy"!!!!!!!!

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Front Coils



DE-K Coilpack: 22448 2Y005 - Hanshin MCP - 2850
DE-- Coilpack: 22448 31406 - Hanshin MCP - 1350

The front DE-K and DE coils are different in appearance and how they mount in, but the connectors fit. I took out a DE-K front coil and connected it to the DE connector on my DE wiring harness, popped in like a charm.

If it fits and it does, does this mean I can run the front 3 coils like this with no worries ?



Photo of VQ30DE-K Front Coils and Connectors



Photo of VQ30DE Front Coils and Connectors

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Cattman Headers
Dan I know I could be going about this the hard way, but trying to get some experience in as well. These were the first batch of the Cattman Headers Brian first got. These are 3 1/2 years old and while they are dirty, they still look the part ! Nothing a bit of soap cant remedy.beautiful !



Cattman Headers (Weight)

Front: 7.5 lbs.
Rear: 6 lbs.
--------------
Total 13.5 lbs

Front and Rear Stock DE-K Exhaust Manifolds: 39 lbs.
Cattman Headers: 13.5 lbs.
39lbs. - 13.5 lbs. = 25.5 lbs

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Vacuum Hoses

I sure do remember all this mess doing the 00VI swap.

Dan, on the VQ30DE-K there is nothing like this on the engine ? Is it supposed to be there (all the vacuum hoses) ? Im wondering what to do about it. Would it be possible to use all this and mount it to the DE-K or does something else have to be done ?

Photo 7

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

A33 Throttle Body and IACV

Photo 7


If I recall correctly the IACV is under the A33 throttle body ? Do I have an option here to go with the DE-K throttle body now that the DE-K is going on ? I could be missing something here because I forget about all the hoses, etc.

With some of the cold start issues, and stuff I thought this might help out if I was able to use it.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Crazy Penny

After removing the lower intake manifold today, I found a dirty old penny that was somewhere around the KS area. I tripped out, it was burnt, thinner than a normal penny and was warped slighty like a bowl (but you cant see the bowl shape from this angle)

Believe it says 2000 on the coin so its got to have been there at least that long. No idea how it got there either. Ha, this 1 cent coin is scorched !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Progress

Engine Bay Shots





Photo 8


In photo above marked with white arrows, what is this ? Would love to pull it out for weight reduction, lol !

XAugusta MoonX

iTrader: (1)

Before you unhook any of those hoses check to see that they're not connected to any fuel lines or anything like that. If I remember correctly they're either part of the EGR or EVAP. Could be wrong though. So check to see if they connect to anything important. If not, TRASH!!! Everything looks good so far. Keep up the good work. Photo 8 is oil cooling. Keep it!

Ephraim

iTrader: (15)

should be the power steering cooling lines, gets the fluid circulating to the front of the car to cool down the fluid. probably better to have it in ?? im not sure about the necessity really.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yes you can interchange the front coils. The rear connectors will also fit either gen's coils but of course you'd use the DEK coils with the DEK rear valve cover.



Yeah the 4th gen used 2 complicated vacuum galleries bolted to the coolant log (unnecessary if you ask me.. ) The DEK doesn't, and its coolant log is different. If you compare them you'll see there's an extra water outlet coming off the valley at the back of the block on the DEK. You'll want to use the DEK coolant log, so the easiest thing to do is trash the 4th gen vacuum galleries and just run new hoses or metal hardlines of your own (some brake line tubing works great). In spite of all the complicated looks of the 4th gen galleries, there are only really 3 main devices those things connect, plus the FPR. They are the EVAP solenoid, the MAP/BARO solenoid, and the EGR solenoid. I just put them all together on a simple bracket coming off the new DEK log. These solenoids have 3 lines to each one, but since you're not using EGR, you can eliminate any hoses to that one, and just leave it connected somewhere (same with the EGR temp sensor) if you don't want CEL's, or if you don't care about that then just remove it. And also make sure you don't trash the little round check valve on the EVAP vacuum line. I can take some pics or provide a routing diagram for you later on for how to run all the vacuum/air stuff.


Yes that's the IACV attached underneath, and I'd probably try that instead of the remote 4th gen IACV + adapter. I think you'll have to rewire the IACV connector (check Tatanko's site for that info IIRC, or hit me up later and I can look at the FSM's and figure it out for you)


That is the power steering oil cooler. If you're keeping power steering (are you?) I'd keep it, and I doubt it weighs much at all (I can weigh that for you later if you want...).

On another note... is that a huge hole I see in your lower rad support?! Or is it just an illusion in the pic, maybe a different colored patch or something?

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

DANDYMAX <Yes that's the IACV attached underneath, and I'd probably try that instead of the remote 4th gen IACV + adapter. I think you'll have to rewire the IACV connector (check Tatanko's site for that info IIRC, or hit me up later and I can look at the FSM's and figure it out for you)>

Yep actually all you have to do is flip the connector around, cut off the shell part of the connector and electrically tape it to the 5th gen IACV. Not too hard. There's a write on here somewhere.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

photo 8 - ha its an illusion, didnt notice that last night. its just a patch of water that was left from taking out the radiator I guess. looks half way dry. you had me worried though... lol !

dan when you get the time, any diagrams would be great. ive pretty much finished the prep work and Thursdays still a long way off. So I got time to try to have a read and see what i need to do.

man i tried getting off the stock pulley from the DE-K yesterday, ha...useless. I didnt even bother trying to take off the UDP after having such a hard time. i will have to sit under nearest tree and dream up something. or if i lived in the states maybe i could buy an amazon kindle with the haynes manual on it, and have a read under the tree? that thing sucks !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

1. OK Saturday morning here. Ive done all the prep work I was asked to do. Anything else I could do that would be helpful?

2. Also I had some questions regarding the fluids in the engine, Should I go ahead and drain the oil, and transmission fluid ?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

What do I need to buy to test the knock sensor?