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going to dyno soon. need help deciding on a piggyback!

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Old 02-05-2008, 12:36 PM
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going to dyno soon. need help deciding on a piggyback!

Like I said, I'm dynoing soon. I've been thinking about a couple different routes of going about tuning. I'm looking to get the best AFR possible, and after removing fuel, advanced timing would be a bi-product. right?

Original plan was AFC NEO installed and tuned for about $550.

I started reading up on increasing timing, and I realized that by removing fuel, I'd end up bumping the timing up. My concern is that with the VQ40 injectors, I might have to remove too much fuel (in order to get the best AFR) which would bump up the timing too far. I wouldn't mind a little advanced timing, but I don't want to have to worry about knocking if it gets advanced too far.

Now I'm thinking it would be a good idea to get an AFPR so that if the timing does get too far advanced, I can lower the fuel pressure, allowing me to remove less fuel and the timing wouldn't be too far advanced. Right? Now that would add another $130+

I'm now considering just having the shop install and tune my car with an EU. This way they can still remove fuel, but they could directly control timing AND I could raise the rev limiter for my 00VI. Right? The EU would only be about 100 bucks more than the NEO+AFPR and that 100 bucks would be totally worth getting an extended rev limit too!

What do you guys think? Would I even have to worry about advancing the timing far enough to need an AFPR? Is my thinking even correct?

sorry, I'm kinda an all-motor n00b....

thanks for the help,
Josh
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mowgli29
Like I said, I'm dynoing soon. I've been thinking about a couple different routes of going about tuning. I'm looking to get the best AFR possible, and after removing fuel, advanced timing would be a bi-product. right?
It obviously depends on how much you are removing, and how much you need to remove. A trip down sticky lane should help you learn more.

Originally Posted by mowgli29
Original plan was AFC NEO installed and tuned for about $550.
That price is high, even if the NEO is included. If you're posting in this section, yo should be able to condition your own AFR. And if not, there is enough information in the stickys to help you be able to DIY.

Originally Posted by mowgli29
I started reading up on increasing timing, and I realized that by removing fuel, I'd end up bumping the timing up. My concern is that with the VQ40 injectors, I might have to remove too much fuel (in order to get the best AFR) which would bump up the timing too far. I wouldn't mind a little advanced timing, but I don't want to have to worry about knocking if it gets advanced too far.
I'm not familiar with VQ40 injectors, but do you know what they flow @ 3.5 Bar? If I'm reading correctly, you have a 00VI's A32? Again, I might be out my knowledge box, but assuming the VQ40 injectors are top feed, then that means you need to be using the A33 FR. If you're not, then they wont work. (using an A32 FR).

Originally Posted by mowgli29
Now I'm thinking it would be a good idea to get an AFPR so that if the timing does get too far advanced, I can lower the fuel pressure, allowing me to remove less fuel and the timing wouldn't be too far advanced. Right? Now that would add another $130+
I paid $120 USD for my NISMO piece, meaning you could probably find a cheaper one, just FYI.

Originally Posted by mowgli29
I'm now considering just having the shop install and tune my car with an EU. This way they can still remove fuel, but they could directly control timing AND I could raise the rev limiter for my 00VI. Right? The EU would only be about 100 bucks more than the NEO+AFPR and that 100 bucks would be totally worth getting an extended rev limit too!
This is true. DandyMax has a great write-up for the A32 software too, so wiring shouldn't be a horrifically huge challenge.

Originally Posted by mowgli29
What do you guys think? Would I even have to worry about advancing the timing far enough to need an AFPR? Is my thinking even correct?
Personally, turning down the FP to adjust AFR isn't the best way to go, turning it up for added fuel is better, but still very raw, and an EU will be your best bet. EU will allow you to use stock injectors and still have timing and fuel control. But, it takes some extensive reading and understanding prior to 'tuning'/putting it yo good use.
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Old 02-05-2008, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Personally, turning down the FP to adjust AFR isn't the best way to go, turning it up for added fuel is better, but still very raw, and an EU will be your best bet. EU will allow you to use stock injectors and still have timing and fuel control. But, it takes some extensive reading and understanding prior to 'tuning'/putting it yo good use.
probably just going with the EU...cash permitting.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
That price is high, even if the NEO is included. If you're posting in this section, yo should be able to condition your own AFR. And if not, there is enough information in the stickys to help you be able to DIY.
So you're saying I should just get a WB02 and tune myself after figuring out a good AFR to shoot for? I was gonna kill alot of birds with a cheap stone and have them dyno and tune for me. This way, I don't have to buy a WB02 yet (or do i?), I get to see how much power it's laying down, and I can have the "pros" give it a better tune than I probably could. My thinking with the WB02 is: if they tune it, I shouldn't have to worry about monitoring the AFR as long as I don't mess with their tune...no? Or I could at least get away with it until I had the money for it?

I'd like to just have them tune it since I don't have much time to mess with my Daily Driver. Then as I learn more about tuning and the EU and get more money for a WB02, I can take over the tuning from there on out.

I guess I'm saying I'd rather spend the money on dyno time than a WB02. This way I know the corrections made power and I've never had my max dynoed either...

Originally Posted by NmexMAX

I'm not familiar with VQ40 injectors, but do you know what they flow @ 3.5 Bar? If I'm reading correctly, you have a 00VI's A32? Again, I might be out my knowledge box, but assuming the VQ40 injectors are top feed, then that means you need to be using the A33 FR. If you're not, then they wont work. (using an A32 FR).
I'm using the A33 (DEK) fuel rail with vq40 (top feed) injectors and stock A32 FPR. I've put a good 800 miles on this setup so far.

@ 3bar they are rated for 290cc, so @ 3.5bar that would be about 338cc I think? Isn't the stock A32 FP 3bar? Bottom line is, they should be close to/a bit less than DEK injectors right?

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
This is true. DandyMax has a great write-up for the A32 software too, so wiring shouldn't be a horrifically huge challenge.
Think I should just buy one from...ebay? and install myself? I'm just afraid of hacking up the wiring harness...

thx for the help Nmex!
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mowgli29
I can have the "pros" give it a better tune than I probably could.
Read the stickys, it explains what type of curve to shoot for, so my point was you could tune yourself, on their dyno. My place charges 90$/hour (about 4 or 5 runs), that should be plenty of time to get a decent AFR.
Originally Posted by mowgli29
I'm using the A33 (DEK) fuel rail with vq40 (top feed) injectors and stock A32 FPR. I've put a good 800 miles on this setup so far.
@ 3bar they are rated for 290cc, so @ 3.5bar that would be about 338cc I think? Isn't the stock A32 FP 3bar? Bottom line is, they should be close to/a bit less than DEK injectors right?
So, essentially, you gained virtually nothing (4cc) over the stock DEK injectors? I have Z33 injectors and they flow 335cc @ 3.5bar.
Originally Posted by mowgli29
Think I should just buy one from...ebay? and install myself? I'm just afraid of hacking up the wiring harness...
What are you referring to here?
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Old 02-05-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Read the stickys, it explains what type of curve to shoot for, so my point was you could tune yourself, on their dyno. My place charges 90$/hour (about 4 or 5 runs), that should be plenty of time to get a decent AFR.
gotcha. stickies here I come...again!

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
So, essentially, you gained virtually nothing (4cc) over the stock DEK injectors? I have Z33 injectors and they flow 335cc @ 3.5bar.
true. the difference between the DEK injectors and the vq40 ones is negligible. that's fine with me though. I only used the vq40 ones because they were much newer/less miles, and they were free.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
What are you referring to here?
sorry, an EU. where is a good place to get an EU for cheap? would you advise against a used one?
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Old 02-05-2008, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mowgli29
gotcha. stickies here I come...again!

true. the difference between the DEK injectors and the vq40 ones is negligible. that's fine with me though. I only used the vq40 ones because they were much newer/less miles, and they were free.


sorry, an EU. where is a good place to get an EU for cheap? would you advise against a used one?
There are a few threads in there that suggest a flat AFR of 13.0 – 13.5 Some of us get more ambitious than others and go a little leaner, but that is only to get a little more timing. There is risk involved, but if you do go EU, you wont need to run this risk.

Good deal on the injectors.

As far as looking for an EU, I’d look here, my350z, g35driver, essentially any and most if not all car sites. Some here may even have a harness already 'done', ready for PnP.
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