Originally Posted by knight_yyz

Anyone know where to get the greddy switch for the two step function? Or can you use a standard 1/8 audio plug?

Originally Posted by maxprivate

Been a while but for what its worth, He explains it in his earlier posts. Bring the airflow voltage out to the the water temp in wire, both of these are on the EMU. Then you set the parameter to send a constant 1 volt to the water temp sensor and it fools the emu. Im in the process of wiring in my EMU now on my 4th Gen.. almost done.

How did you guys running Aem Uego hook up the A/F harness to it? Its one grey and one white wire. Dandys write up says get the signal and ground from the O2 sensor but not sure from the sensor itself, the ECU, or which O2 sensor. Thanks to anyone that chimes in.

Originally Posted by schmellyfart

Looking at the option port on the emanage left pin is signal, right is ground.
I used the ground on the 4 pin UEGO connector and connected that to both the EU ground and the option port ground (I powered the wideband off of the EU's power line, so all of the connections were right there)

Originally Posted by maxprivate

Thanks smelly, that clears that up for the AEM Uego wideband.


Dandy notes about switch port wiring section 2.4 option 1 : I will use for Wide band but option 2 : can be used for pressure sensor or Wide (either), is that referring to the boost gauge?

I have the AEM digital boost gauge. But all that give you is boost pressure. Does that need to connect to the EU in anyway? Switch port wiring mentions getting the signal from the B+ red wire ( voltage supply ) OEM sensor and white wire to the signal line; black wire to the sensors ground. As we know its not an OEM sensor, its the boost gauge so Im a little confused on what to do with that.

Section 2.5 resister Wiring , I have a newer version of the EU, the person I bought it from said he bought it brand new in 2012. Should I still wire in the resisters to prevent a CEL for ignition signal code P1320 OR 0201?

Im not sure which version firmware I have but I read that the newer version EU have something built into the circuit to prevent that CEL without the resisters being wired in.

There is also 4 Dip switches to the very left looking at the EMU what are those for? I dont see anything about those in Dandys write up.

Originally Posted by schmellyfart

I was under the impression that the second option port could be used for an aftermarket map sensor if you want to tune off of the MAP, rather than MAF. That's as far as my knowledge goes for MAP sensors.

I'd plug the EU in and go from there if you get the codes or not. I hardwired the resistors inside of the EU itself.

The dip switches are controlled by the EU software. You can set it up to turn maps off and on.

Originally Posted by schmellyfart

Nope, I haven't have any issues with the UEGO on the EU.

Originally Posted by george__

Diagram please

Originally Posted by george__

car cranks but doesn't start

Originally Posted by maxprivate

All the diagrams you need are on VQPOWER.COM

Originally Posted by Unklejoe

I purchased a used Emanage Ultimate a couple of weeks ago and I finally got everything installed and set up so I figured I should share my experience, as this is not a commonly used device for the 5.5 gen Maximas.

Install:

I used this guide to match up the pin locations to my ECU (the guide is for the 02-04 3.5 Altima, but it's the exact same ECU. Please remember that the pictures of the plugs are assuming that you are behind the plug, looking at the socket.

http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf


I used DandyMax's write up for some other useful information, but his guide was for the A32 and 2000-2001 A33, so I had to do certain things differently.

http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/...xEUWriteup.pdf


My Emanage actually came with a plug and play harness for the 350z/G35 and 04+ Maxima, but this was not compatible with my ECU, so I had to cut and splice every wire individually. I used a combination of heat shrink tubing and silver bearing solder.


Important Notes:

• I added diodes (Radioshack rectifier diodes, the black ones) on the ignition output side of the Emanage, as it is rumored that the ignition drivers inside the Emanage leak small amounts of current, which triggers the ignition coil transistors to partially "turn on" the coils. This can fry the coils due to over heating. The voltage drop of the diodes is supposed to reduce the amount of current seepage from the ignition drivers of the Emanage. This was more common for the Emanage BLUE, but I figured that it wouldn't hurt to do it on the Emanage Ultimate also.
• As stated in DandyMax's guide, you have the choice of running either the coolant temp sensor and the intake temp sensor, or replacing one of the temp sensors with the knock sensor. Please note if you are going to use one of the inputs for a knock sensor, set the appropriate jumper to OPEN. Not doing so will send false knock signals to the ECU. You'll know if you are getting false knock because your car will pull about as hard as a moped.
• Please note, I was not able to get the knock sensor input to show anything, even on the newest firmware (as of September 2010) version 2.20.
• The autotune (AFR Target) feature will NOT work unless you have the coolant temperature sensor hooked up.
• You DO NOT need to have the crank sensor input hooked up in order to advance or retard the ignition timing, it is only there to be able to show you your real time ignition timing.

Problems and Solutions:

Upon doing my first datalog, I noticed random spikes/dips of my ignition timing and RPM's and other RPM dependent functions. If I switch the RPM Input to "Ignition Coils" instead of "Crank Sensor", the RPM spikes went away, but the ignition timing spikes were still there (this is determined from the crank position sensor). After some research, I came to the conclusion that my crank sensor wire was getting some electromagnetic interference from the engine bay.

I thought that I could fix it by replacing the Crank sensor wire with a shielded audio cable that I had laying around. Well, this did not change anything. This ruled out interference as being the problem.

After some MORE research, I saw a post on here about how someone else was getting random ignition timing spikes and they fixed it by downgrading to FW version 1.14. I did that.

This did reduce/eliminate the random ignition timing spikes, but read on...


Fried Coil Anyone?:

After driving around for an entire day with the Emanage Ultimate hooked up, I pull into a parking lot and shut the car off. Once I get back in, I turn the key to the "ON" position and put my seatbelt on.

I start the car, and I notice that I am only running on five cylinders. I limp home and determine that my center/rear coil melted. Figures that it's one of the coils that you can't get to without taking the entire UIM off.

I replaced the coil with a coil from PepBoys for $70 with a lifetime warrenty.

My theory is that the coil got fried because I was running the older firmware version 1.14. I upgraded back to firmware version 2.20 and I haven't had a problem, and it's been two days.

This surprised me actually, as I figured that I protected myself by installing the diodes, but apparently not.

Just remember to never leave the key on the "ON" position for extended periods of time, as the small current leakage of the Emanage will heat up the coils and eventually kill them.

Timing Advance (Or Not):

Once I got everything situated, I decided to do some logs to see where my timing was at.

I tried adding some timing here and there, to bring my total curve average to around 24 degrees, approaching 28 as it gets closer to redline.

Well, I was able to add about 3 degrees until I noticed that for each extra degree that I added, the timing in that area ACTUALLY WENT DOWN. This was because the ECU was pulling timing because of "knock".

I was running 93 Octane gas and I was only at like 23-24 degrees of timing and I was getting knock. This can't be right because I've seen VQ30's run much higher timing (28-30 degrees) and the VQ35 is supposed to be less prone to knock.

It appears as if the 2002-2003 ECU is much more sensitive to knock input from the knock sensor.

I temporarily bypassed the knock sensor by putting a 470k Ohm resistor in its place and I was successfully able to advance my timing to around 25-26 in the low end (1000-4000rpm), 23-24 in the midrange(4000-5000, torque peak), and 27-28 in the high end (5000-6600).

I did advance it too far at one point and I was able to actually HEAR the knock so I immediately stopped and retarded some timing. It is extremely important if you are going to do this, to do all your pulls with the windows down so you can hear any potential knocking.

At this point, I am researching ways to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor. I am thinking about putting some sort of rubber bushing under it to muffle some of the noises that it "hears". I will report back with results. I don't really feel comfortable driving around with no knock sensor. If I can at least get SOME knock protection, that would be great.

AFR Tuning:

I am using an Innovate LC-1 wideband to monitor my air fuel ratio. I did not want to buy the Greddy Option port harness for $20, so I made my own. I used one of the old cables for the audio port of a CD ROM drive in a computer (not the ide cable, the 4 pin little audio cable). I grinded the connector down so it would fit. Remember that the ground is the pin closest to the option 2 port. The positive is the pin on the opposite side.

Here's some info on that(post 10):

http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/f...imate-faq.html

I set the AFR Target settings to activate above 41% throttle. I left the feedback cycle and amount alone.

The target AFR map is 12.9 everywhere.

I plan on leaving this on all the time, which I heard is bad but I don't care, as it gives me perfect 12.6-13.2 AFR's in every gear at every RPM.

Coolant Temp Problem:

I noticed that my car never quite heats all the way up. This causes the idle to remain high. I think this is due to JP13 being set to "1-2". I will switch this to "open" tomorrow and report back.

Blown E-Manage (October 2010 Update):

Well, I did the above (about switching the jumper setting for the coolant problem), and I fried my E-Manage! Within five minutes of the car running, after I switched the jumper, it stalled out and the E-Manage's green power LED would not come on. This is believed to be because when jumper 13 is set to open, it is expecting a knock sensor input, which is a lower voltage than a coolant temp sensor.

DO NOT RUN THE E-MANAGE WITH JP13 SET TO OPEN IF YOU HAVE A 5.5 GEN! In DandyMax's guide, it states to try switching the jumper settings if you are having problems with your coolant temperature reading correctly, which I was, but his guide is for the 4th and 5th gen Maxima, not the 5.5 gen , which has a different coolant temperature sensor.

I had to purchase another E-Manage unit. This time I did something different. Read on...

Tricking the E-Manage:

I needed a way for the E-Manage to think that the car was warmed up so that the Autotune feature would work, but I had no way to properly hook up the coolant temperature sensor from the car. If I hooked it up with JP13 set to 1-2, it interferes with the signal and causes the car to think that it is cooler than it is, and when I switched the jumper to OPEN, I fried the E-Manage.

So, I discovered that when fully warm, the car's temperature sensor sends out ~1.00 volts. I connected the AIRFLOW VOLTAGE OUT of the E-Manage to the WATER TEMP IN on the E-Manage. Then, I configured the E-Manage's airflow correction map to output a constant 1 volt signal at all RPM ranges. This is with JP13 set to 1-2.

I am basically using the E-Manage to send out a constant 1 volt signal to itself, to trick it into thinking that the car is always warm. Now I don't have to have my coolant temperature sensor connected to my E-Manage at all.

Firmware and Software Downloads:

http://www.3000gt.com.au/Files/EMU%20Firmware/

Screen Shots:

Parameter settings.











My ignition adjustment map. (Don't just copy mine, as every car responds differently to ignition advance)


Screen shot showing the airflow adjustment map and my AFR target map.