EMU question
08-18-2014, 04:41 PM
#1
EMU question
I finally hooked it up today, but I couldn't stand the intense heat for very long. I hooked it up, running ver 2.2, and my AFR read about 11-12 which is rich. Without the EMU it reads around 14.2-14.9
Isn't the EMU supposed to be passive and not alter the AFR if I haven't done any tuning? Because I haven't done any tuning yet.
I guess Rich is better than Lean though.
Anyone have similar experience or input ?
Isn't the EMU supposed to be passive and not alter the AFR if I haven't done any tuning? Because I haven't done any tuning yet.
I guess Rich is better than Lean though.
Anyone have similar experience or input ?
08-18-2014, 07:40 PM
#3
I never even started tuning. I never data logged, or even 'autotuned' yet. I just wanted to test the harness out...but I expected the same AFR on the wb as before as the EU was 'passive' so no settings should have changed.
Are you saying that there are wideband settings in the EU that needed to be set? Also, I flipped 'DIP 1" to on position. I figured that it needed to be on for the WB? Maybe if I turned that to off, it will be normal?
08-18-2014, 07:56 PM
#4
IDK man...The engine sounded a little different as well when I had the EU hooked up, and I had a little bit of backfire sound and less-responsive throttle.
I never even started tuning. I never data logged, or even 'autotuned' yet. I just wanted to test the harness out...but I expected the same AFR on the wb as before as the EU was 'passive' so no settings should have changed.
Are you saying that there are wideband settings in the EU that needed to be set? Also, I flipped 'DIP 1" to on position. I figured that it needed to be on for the WB? Maybe if I turned that to off, it will be normal?
I never even started tuning. I never data logged, or even 'autotuned' yet. I just wanted to test the harness out...but I expected the same AFR on the wb as before as the EU was 'passive' so no settings should have changed.
Are you saying that there are wideband settings in the EU that needed to be set? Also, I flipped 'DIP 1" to on position. I figured that it needed to be on for the WB? Maybe if I turned that to off, it will be normal?
As for the WB, you have to do more than just flip Dipswitch 1, there are a few settings in the EU for the WB that need to be setup and depends on which Wideband you have.
You bought and installed the optional yellow Greddy wideband wire and have it tied to your wideband?
Have you read DandyMax's writeup? He explains on how to set up the wideband stuff.
That's what I did and everything works like a charm.
08-19-2014, 04:29 AM
#6
Yes, I made the harness. The engine runs very smooth when I have it hooked up, it just looks like 'closed loop' isn't pulling fuel.
The injectors are not wired backwards, would it even fire up if they were wired backwards because it would sent the pulse signal to the ecu instead of the injectors?
I am using Dandymax's writeup though, I wired the resistors and all that good stuff!!
And I exagerated, it doesnt backfire really, just sounds slightly poppy is all.
The injectors are not wired backwards, would it even fire up if they were wired backwards because it would sent the pulse signal to the ecu instead of the injectors?
I am using Dandymax's writeup though, I wired the resistors and all that good stuff!!
And I exagerated, it doesnt backfire really, just sounds slightly poppy is all.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 08-19-2014 at 05:13 AM.
08-19-2014, 10:43 AM
#7
It would certainly fire up if only 1 or 2 injectors were not wired correctly. Your max shouldn't behave any differently with the EU hooked up.
Get your wideband issues figured out?
Get your wideband issues figured out?
08-19-2014, 05:05 PM
#8
The interaction LED slowly blinks on and off when car running and not connected to the laptop I doont know whats wrong.
I hooked it up again today and took it around the city and it seems to drive pretty good but awful rich. I was datalogging and then my stupid laptop suddenly blanked out on me and I couldnt rstore it.
I googled the blinking led problem, and on a s2000 forum (http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/7226...imate-problem/) they were hinting at the software not matching but I'm pretty sure I have the correct software.
Edit:
I looked on other forums and they seem to think it's fine (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1184461)
So IDK what's the deal. It reads around 14.7 when it's not installed. Then around 11.5 when it is installed. I haven't done anthing yet so it shouldnt alter the afr..
Last edited by Maximeltman; 08-19-2014 at 05:30 PM.
08-21-2014, 03:34 PM
#10
I just came home frm wrk, and it drives great, temp stays in range and fans cut on because I jumped the correct one on the board..still rich at idle though.
I pulled some codes also (99 harness, 95 ecu) 0707 rear 02 which I have read doesnt mean much, and 1005 egr, and either 0304 knock or 0403 tps, I cleared the codes then forgot which one it threw. Will a faulty tps alter afr I wonder..
I was at the bar when I wrote that last post Wizard, no disrespect inteneded. Do you skate powell peralta or used to skate? Cool avatar is why I ask
I skate still.
so bump.
I pulled some codes also (99 harness, 95 ecu) 0707 rear 02 which I have read doesnt mean much, and 1005 egr, and either 0304 knock or 0403 tps, I cleared the codes then forgot which one it threw. Will a faulty tps alter afr I wonder..
I was at the bar when I wrote that last post Wizard, no disrespect inteneded. Do you skate powell peralta or used to skate? Cool avatar is why I ask
I skate still.so bump.
08-21-2014, 04:06 PM
#11
08-21-2014, 04:19 PM
#12
08-22-2014, 01:49 PM
#14
OK thanks Wizard ans Schmellyfart, I Have another question, does the EU need to be grounded on the line 25 engine ground? I have a 99 harness but I use a 95 ECU. The 99 ecu #25 is a engine ground and the 95 ecu #25 IS 'sensors ground', doe it mater which is grounded? I wouldn't know should I use a different ground? Also I tied both emu grounds together.
08-23-2014, 01:15 PM
#15
I used to skate back in the day. It was my life between ages 10 and 18. As soon as I got a car and discovered women, my interest in sk8boarding dwindled. Go figure haha
Not sure if this matters. When I installed mine, I thought about this connection too. What I did was tap the ECU wire in two different locations, about 1 inch apart as I didn't want any unnecessary interference just in case.
Also, when you say both emu grounds, I'm assuming you're talking about the EU main ground and the EU injector ground.
Last edited by The Wizard; 08-23-2014 at 01:18 PM.
08-23-2014, 04:08 PM
#16
Not sure if this matters. When I installed mine, I thought about this connection too. What I did was tap the ECU wire in two different locations, about 1 inch apart as I didn't want any unnecessary interference just in case.
Also, when you say both emu grounds, I'm assuming you're talking about the EU main ground and the EU injector ground.
Also, when you say both emu grounds, I'm assuming you're talking about the EU main ground and the EU injector ground.
I pulled the EU out, and my afr went back to 14.7 when idling...
Is it abnormal for the 'interaction light' to slowly blink on/off when running and not connected to a laptop?
I double checked all connections...they all are ok. I'm wondering if there's a map loaded on it somehow, but when I check the file, all I have is the map I sorta made following dandymax's tutorial, and I haven't even loaded that one in yet...
I also have the 00vi w/the 5gen injectors, does that require the resistors soldered onto the mb?
Is there some kind of software site that I can double check? I already know of http://greddy.com/tech-support/e-manage/ and that's where I downloaded the 'current' version.
Here are some pics of what I got:
08-25-2014, 07:42 PM
#17
All your screen shots look fine.
08-26-2014, 03:51 PM
#19
Schmelly Ok that's a good idea, I will do it.
Wiz all I did was select the airflow map as Dandymax suggested and I didn't tweak anything on it. I also fond out that on my harness, I did solder (tap) the 'optional' blue/yellow wire to the KS instead of the water temp, and in the program upload, I had it set on air and water temp...maybe that's what was wrong..It's raining out so not gonna mess w it atm.
And yea if u can LMK if interaction light blinks on/of slowwly. like 3 second dimming pulses on and off.
Thanks.
Wiz all I did was select the airflow map as Dandymax suggested and I didn't tweak anything on it. I also fond out that on my harness, I did solder (tap) the 'optional' blue/yellow wire to the KS instead of the water temp, and in the program upload, I had it set on air and water temp...maybe that's what was wrong..It's raining out so not gonna mess w it atm.
And yea if u can LMK if interaction light blinks on/of slowwly. like 3 second dimming pulses on and off.
Thanks.
08-29-2014, 02:06 PM
#20
The jumpers are all ok.
I soldered the blue/yellow wire to the water temp wire.
None of that did anything to alleviate the rich afr.
I took the harness off of the EU and jumped all the ign/inj wires to see what the afr would do. It went back to normal 14.3-15.00 afr fluctuation which is how it normally is.
So I know it's not the harness. It's the EU.
Next thing I'm doing is removing the resistors that I soldered onto the unit for the ignition coils. See if that makes a diff. (probably wont though because a spark is a spark)
Wizard-any chance that you looked at your interaction led to see if it blinks when powered on?
I soldered the blue/yellow wire to the water temp wire.
None of that did anything to alleviate the rich afr.
I took the harness off of the EU and jumped all the ign/inj wires to see what the afr would do. It went back to normal 14.3-15.00 afr fluctuation which is how it normally is.
So I know it's not the harness. It's the EU.
Next thing I'm doing is removing the resistors that I soldered onto the unit for the ignition coils. See if that makes a diff. (probably wont though because a spark is a spark)
Wizard-any chance that you looked at your interaction led to see if it blinks when powered on?
Last edited by Maximeltman; 08-29-2014 at 02:47 PM.
08-29-2014, 08:08 PM
#21
Hmmmm....I'm not entirely convinced it's the EU. Maybe a wideband setting in the EU, but not the EU itself. I remember something about the wideband ground too, that it needs to be grounded to....but I can't remember right now. Will have to re-read Dandy's writeup again and Innovate's instructions again.
Haven't checked the EU light on my car yet, sorry. Max is currently up on the lift.
Haven't checked the EU light on my car yet, sorry. Max is currently up on the lift.
09-12-2014, 08:38 PM
#25
Does noone tune with this anymore? Is everyone on nistune or something? It's really simple: Why does my EMU make the engine run 11-12 afr in closed loop? I myself obviously don't think it's real simple because I never used it before. So someone please chime?
09-13-2014, 11:10 AM
#27
I don't have any maps and the parameter settings are posted above unless there's other parameter settings that I don't know about. I just plugged the EMU in and started the car and I got a rich afr on idle but when I took the EMU off and jump the ingintion and injectors while the harness is still connected, the afr goes back to normal. Is the passive unmapped EMU supposed to alter closed loop afr? Because it's doing it.
09-17-2014, 02:49 AM
#30
Finally had a look. With the key in the ON position, the interaction led glows a solid steady orange. With the car running, the interaction led fades in and out the same orange color in about 2-3 seconds.
09-17-2014, 08:28 PM
#31
09-17-2014, 09:54 PM
#32
Time for a tedious process of elimination. Leave the EU connected and disconnect all ignition and injection wires. If that doesn't fix it, go through the wiring and disconnect one by one until the problem is resolved. If disconnecting the ignition and injection wires fixed it, go through and reconnect them one by one until you find the problem wire(s).
09-18-2014, 05:33 PM
#33
Time for a tedious process of elimination. Leave the EU connected and disconnect all ignition and injection wires. If that doesn't fix it, go through the wiring and disconnect one by one until the problem is resolved. If disconnecting the ignition and injection wires fixed it, go through and reconnect them one by one until you find the problem wire(s).
If I disconnect all ign/inj wires, how would the engine even start?
I know you are very familiar with this device I saw your nest of soldered wires in a speed-run video a couple years ago...that was cool.
But what is the possibility that the EU is just bad? If it was bad, would the car start and run? Because it does, but it's altering closed loop afr! Makin it hella rich like 11.5-12afr
Right now, the harness is still connected, and my EU is in the garage. I just jumped all the ign/inj wires on the eu plugs, and zip tied the plugs to the glove box lock hook so when I drive they don't come loose when driving. So I don't believe that the harness is faulty. I can take a pic to show you huys what I mean. My camera is mia atm. brb ttyl. lol
09-18-2014, 07:24 PM
#34
I meant disconnect them from the EU and reconnect them as they would normally be without a piggyback wired in.
Are you using a PNP harness?
Better yet, upload your emange map file and I'll see if anything looks funny.
Are you using a PNP harness?
Better yet, upload your emange map file and I'll see if anything looks funny.
