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Old 03-30-2009, 06:20 PM   #201
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PA11-NIS definitely does not work on Bose with in-dash 6CD

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmdrdata View Post
I ordered PA11-NIS even though USA SPEC says its not compatible with my 2K2 with in-dash 6CD player. Worst come to worst, I can use that unit in my wife's 2K Max.
I attempted to install the PA11-NIS on my 2k2 Max with Bose 6CD in-dash. It DEFINITELY does not work. The problem specifically is the smaller 16-pin connector in the HU versus the 12-pin connector of the PA11-NIS. They just won't physically fit, and they carry different signals. I was able to install it in my wife's 2K Max and it plays the iPod just fine as the manual indicated.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:07 PM   #202
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Originally Posted by Maxima_Joe View Post
For 95-96 Bose why do we have to install a switch between the AUX-ON and GND? I installed a switch between AUX-ON and RX just like the 97-98 units and get AUX mode. I tested 3 different units and there all the same. I even found a factory plug that fits so no opening up the radio and soldering on the circuit board.
Where did you find the plug?
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:46 AM   #203
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3. Solder the following wires. I determined where the L+, L-, R+, R- wires go by using a multimeter in conductivity mode and tracing the pins from the CD changer connector. The labels on the picture are from memory so please double check them with a multimeter. The pin out diagram for the CD changer connector was found here: http://carstereohelp.net/wireharness_Nissan2.htm.
I am unable to see the labled solder connections in the first post, I am interested in this mod but I don't understand how to tell which of the 7 wires shown are the L+, L-, R+, R- wires, and which 2 are for the aux switch. Unless I can't count, (this could be the issue) doesn't this leave one wire in the second post unaccounted for? Does anyone have them labled or know how to i.d. them? This how to looks amazing.

Last edited by tillor; 07-29-2009 at 11:57 AM..
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:03 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by HobHayward View Post
Look here: http://ryft.org/index.php?title=1995...Bose_HU_AUX_in

Thats a more detailed write up I did. needs better pictures, but you should see what you need to do.

Could an admin edit the first post to include that link?
Not found.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:11 AM   #205
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im lookin at this also. whats the last wire for? L- L+, R- R+ Aux on & rxd ( i have a 99) but what;s the last wire for? ground?
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:48 PM   #206
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anyone try this with a shield stereo headphone cable alone ? its got a ground shield and a l and R signal, all we would need to do is basically link up the L+ and R+ and then the common to the ground shield on both.

Also there are not many pics in the OP , does someone have the exact solder points on the PCB ?
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:37 PM   #207
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nice...............................
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:49 PM   #208
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looking for someone who can install this in my '02 i35 in Houston TX.
just need to plug my iphone into the car stereo. dont care how it works, just dont want to use FM transmitter anymore or tape deck adapter.

shoot me an email. Quick771@Gmail.com

thanks

Chris
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:03 PM   #209
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So I've been messing around with this. I know that people have been looking for the diagram that shows which wires are which. Just for a short answer, in the second post there is a picture of wires soldered to the board, the 4 grouped together are L-, L+, R-, R+. As for the other 3, the furthest outside wires connected together will cause the AUX to show up on the display, so one must be ground and the other the aux. I have no idea what the third is. I have a bose unit from '96 and it worked this way.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:25 PM   #210
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wow u got some skills bro but i think their is an easier way im not that tech savy to scared.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:56 PM   #211
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CLARION AUX Works: Maxima 97 non-Bose single CD (the cassette tape lid has a number CN585) Since it's not a Bose it must be a Clarion.

OK I got music from the Ipod. Here is how I wired it with 7 wires. These all come from the CD changer connector, that are not being used:

Radio Shack SWITCH I used
The switch I used is a single pole double throw (SPDT) with 3 leads.

AUX-ON soldered to switch (center lead)
RXD soldered to switch (outside lead)
GND soldered to the switch (outside lead)

LCH+ to Positive Left Channel (center pin on RCA connector)
LCH- to Negative Left Channel (outside lead on RCA connector)

RCH+ to Positive Right Channel (center pin on RCA connector)
RCH- to Negative Right Channel (outside lead on RCA connector)

Remember it's very quiet so turn it up to hear it. I have external amps on mine so it gets good volume.

Next, install the $29.00 ebay Harman Karmon Drive Play.

Sorry about waking this old thread.
Thx.

Last edited by rrg; 12-05-2009 at 04:38 PM..
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:42 PM   #212
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Best mod ever! just installed everything back together, works like a charm, Only thing i found odd was my ipod needed constant power from its 12v charger otherwise there is alot of digital static, but with it,Sounds amazing.

Damn bose knowes quailty, speakers sound awesome 13 years later
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:13 AM   #213
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Sweet Im going to have to try this. Gotten used to playing my ipod through the headunit in my other car.
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Old 12-25-2009, 06:31 PM   #214
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i read pages 1-3 noone seem to give a true answer if it worked for the 99 head unit.
i had a 96 head unit did the mod. WORKED SO GOOD. then the radio started going all postal on me so i got a 99 bose head unit from a path finder (looks the same as the 99 gle model).
so not only did i get this unit for free at my job, it plays better, everything works so prefect too.

i just need to know does this work off the 99 radio??
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:36 PM   #215
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Does this work on a 5th gen as well??
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Old 01-26-2010, 12:24 AM   #216
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i just use the tape deck with and adapter from an old discman
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:00 PM   #217
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I also use the tape deck adapter. Works great without volume issues.
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Old 02-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #218
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i just use the tape deck with and adapter from an old discman

Poop for sound quality!
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:16 AM   #219
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Works great for ipod

I wanted to clear up some confusion that I and others have.
After reading through thread a couple of times I worked up the nerve to do this. BTW - it works great! Thank Dan.

In Dans original instructions there is a pic with 7 wires. He only explains 6 connections so what is with the extra wire. Much later in thread "rrg" posts:

Radio Shack SWITCH I used
The switch I used is a single pole double throw (SPDT) with 3 leads.

AUX-ON soldered to switch (center lead)
RXD soldered to switch (outside lead)
GND soldered to the switch (outside lead)

LCH+ to Positive Left Channel (center pin on RCA connector)
LCH- to Negative Left Channel (outside lead on RCA connector)

RCH+ to Positive Right Channel (center pin on RCA connector)
RCH- to Negative Right Channel (outside lead on RCA connector)

Thanks "RXD"

All this info is essential and explains the 7th wire going to RXD. I did not understand why the RXD would be necessary so I tried connecting the AUX On and Ground with single throw switch and two leads like Dan stated only and it did not work. I tried wiring the AUX ON and RXD together on the same pole on switch and there was a small "click" in stereo followed by "AUX" on display! It worked!

The only other info I would pass along concerns the soldering locations on the Dans wire pic 'cause I never was able to find that "pdf" file either. Moving from left to right the solder points are as follows:
Ground, AUX On, the 4 together are R+ on top of R-, the L+ on top of L- (not sure why L is right of the R's but I did not design the board..). The pin connection to the far right is a mystery to me. The RXD on my stereo is located directly right of AUX ON. I simply soldered the switch lead between the two solder pins to wire together.

As for sound...I read problems with volume and static when in pause on the ipod. I do not experience any of these problems. Any louder and the speakers would blow and no static. The sound quality is exceptional!

Overall I still cant believe I got this to work but very glad I got the nerve to try. It is not a big deal but you will need the multimeter and some practice soldering. I used an old network card from and old PC...

Good Luck!
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:17 PM   #220
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http://ryft.org/wiki/index.php?title...Bose_HU_AUX_in

Just stopped by to see what was going on, if anyone was wondering where my link went.. here it is. Sorry bout the change, my friend swapped things around...
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:55 PM   #221
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Changed Alternator and battery and Bose radio no longer has power...

I'm guess I do something to get the radio back on or the radio is dead?

2002 maxima se
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:57 PM   #222
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Quote:
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I'm guess I do something to get the radio back on or the radio is dead?

2002 maxima se
wait....wat???Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:01 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by scrhale View Post
(5.5 Bose w/6 disc)
Would it be possible to desolder the connections that the tape deck makes directly into the main circuit and solder in connections for an AUX input?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:02 PM   #224
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Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
anyone try this with a shield stereo headphone cable alone ? its got a ground shield and a l and R signal, all we would need to do is basically link up the L+ and R+ and then the common to the ground shield on both.

Also there are not many pics in the OP , does someone have the exact solder points on the PCB ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:03 PM   #225
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very nice work. so will this work on a 2k3 headunit or not? would be very sweet if it did but i dunno if i wanna take the chance of screwing up my headunit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:04 PM   #226
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anyone done this on a 2002 maxima? I need a how-to for that. PLEASE!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:05 PM   #227
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anyone perform this on a 02-03 bose headunit yet? id really like to see how it was done before i go and purchase soundgate's aux adapter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:06 PM   #228
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i too have an 02 with bose 6-disc indash... anyone have a solid solution. I just finished a modulator install and it SUCKS... help... please...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:07 PM   #229
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Man, I guess I just want it all. Other then FM tranmitter or Tape Adapter. I have yet to see something that will let me keep my CD Changer. The AUX that I have only works when I put a Audio CD in the Navi. Am I missing something? Or with this mod work for me?

Sorry that is a bit confusing.

I have a '02 Max. with a Factory Navi. with a 6 Disc cd changer in the trunk. Like to keep the cd changer but add a Aux port for a MP3 player. I dont have a Sat. button is there a way to get this to work?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:08 PM   #230
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okay, this looks awesome, but I can't find whether or not this will work on a 2002 bose in-dash changer HU. please let me know if it does, or if anyone knows. thanks in advance
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:09 PM   #231
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I'm also interested in this someone please help. What do 5.5 guys with bose and cd changers have to do to have an AUX input???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 04-26-2010, 06:12 PM   #232
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I tore apart my 2K2's Bose HU and could not get to the circuit board. I removed 2200 screws and still could not get the CD changer separated from the HU, in order to get a clean look at the solder connections.

I buttoned it back up and thought I might try intercepting the tape deck leads at the white multi-pin connector as it goes IN to the HU. Problem #1, you can't select TAPE as an input unless there's a tape IN THE DECK. That option is out. Problem #2, I thought I could piggy-back into the CD player leads, and maybe by leaving at least 1 blank CD in the changer, that would work. Still not sure if that plan will bear any fruit - I disconnected the 10-pin white connector and all 10 wires are now loose and no longer in their correct arrangement. Can anyone here tell me how to arrange these wires again? Red, Yellow, White, Green, Green & White, Purple, Red & White, Black, Gray, Red& Yellow.

Here's a pic of the black connector that I need to feed these colors into. Thanks in advance for any help.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mauryrut...08545381787778
Maury
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKGKB0vUqvg
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:03 PM   #233
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Been looking for a guide like this forever, nice, thanks!
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:46 PM   #234
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WTF!?

I just finished putting everything back together and it works great. Except now when I turn my parking lights/headlights on the aux turns off.

I did the always illuminated clock mod too. Does this have anything to do with it?
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:10 PM   #235
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Never mind. Tried it again today and it works now. Very strange.

Any ways, here's my set-up. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:38 PM   #236
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The switch and port are wicked! Very slick install.

I kind of want to try and wire a nice over-the-speakers setup into my Max now, sort of like the Youtube video a few posts up, which is the answer to every post about the 2k2 install. I'm trying to figure out how I'd manage. I have a Nokia which came with a little remote control with play, pause, reverse/forward, and answer/hang up buttons on it. I figure it should be possible to wire the audio parts of this into my Bose HU and the microphone into a mic I've placed somewhere in the car where it can pick up my voice.

I don't know what sort of mic I'd use to pick up my voice nicely from a bit of a distance. I also don't know where I'd put it - I don't want to cut any holes in the plastics, but I'm thinking a little bug hanging from the top of the A-pillar trim could work; that's where it was on my dad's old Lincoln Continental. For an easier install, a shorter wire, and potentially better voice pickup, the top of the steering column might work nicely.

The rest shouldn't be difficult. The Nokia remote outputs to the standard four-wire output: mic, two audio, and ground. It would probably be simple to split the mic wire out of a four-wire cable so it can go somewhere separate fro the audio. That wire would then plug into the unmodified Nokia remote and then into the phone. I'd plug in the phone, start the music, drop it wherever I liked, and from then onwards control everything with the remote, which I could Velcro or mount nicely somewhere inconspicuous and easily at hand.

Doubt I'll ever do it but it would be cool. Maybe I'll look into it next weekend.

EDIT: Wau...my phone came with one of these cables: http://cgi.ebay.com/Nokia-3-5mm-CA-7...item2a06f1aec6 Nokia CA-75U

It's a beautiful cable, really nice rubber, but I think it would be perfect for this. The cable is split from the input into three RCA plugs, so I wouldn't need to do any splicing - just chop off the heads of the two audio cables and solder them as appropriate, then connect the third to a mic wherever I want. I even have some RCA extension cable lying around the house.

But damn it, it's such a nice cable...well, a new one is $3 on eBay and I've never used it in the two years I've had the phone...but it even smells nice, it seems such a shame to chop it up...
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'99 Volvo V70 T5, 5spd, ten billion miles, white, too-loud exhaust, too-dark tints, leaky valve guides for that delicious smoky aftertaste.

Last edited by j-dawg; 06-01-2010 at 09:26 PM..
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:00 PM   #237
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I did it.

The idea was to use the AV (yellow-white-red) cable that came with my phone as stereo audio and a microphone. These would plug into the Nokia AD-54 remote control that came with my phone. I went to Fry's and bought all the components I'd need: a microphone, some couplers, and some wire.

The basic idea of the setup can be described as below:

This image (and all the others, 'cause I totally forgot it until the end) neglect the remote control that was really the main reason I made this setup. it's a little plastic box with some buttons on it, a wire to plug into the phone, and a headphone port:

It's the box on the left. This allows me to play/pause/stop/fast forward/reverse music and pick up/hang up calls, all pretty much without having to look away from the road.

My soldering is terrible so I managed to break a thousand joints during the process of installation. In fact, that was the single biggest holdup for this whole project. As you can see, I broke the connection for the right+ channel, so I followed the trace and soldered the wire directly to the surface-mount resistor at the end of its trace.

My soldering is so bad that I think some of it has already come undone: I noticed late yesterday a distinct lack of bass in my music that wasn't there in the morning. I'm planning to redo the joints with stranded wire some time soon, or just buy the $2 d-sub kit mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the crimp connectors from which I can connect to the changer port.


This was the basic idea for the mic. I wanted it mounted in the little blank panel on the dash next to the dimmer switch, where it could be pointed straight at me, since I had little faith in the $4 microphone I had bought. As you can see, I have subjected it to coupler hell and I was worried that the sound might not come through all right. I wanted to avoid soldering the mic cable because it would be subjected to a lot of jostling during the installation.


The cables run through here. I took this photo before deciding to run the switch through here as well.


The setup with the electrical work finished. It took a remarkably short time to get to this point - of course, I hadn't yet broken every solder joint twice, so I was excited about how quickly the mod was progressing.


I didn't have a drill bit exactly the right size as the microphone, but I did notice that my key was exactly as wide at the shank as the part of the microphone that I wanted to grab. So I drilled a 5/16" hole and reamed it out with my key.


It's a perfect press-fit. Tight enough that no amount of jiggling will move it, but just enough room to twist the mic if necessary. The switch I bought was listed on the manufacturer's website as needing a .25" hole, which was easy enough. In the process of drilling these holes, I managed to skin my finger and slightly break the panel I drilled them in. No biggie, though - it still sticks in place.


Dash bezel back in place. I wanted the mic and switch to be to the left of the dimmer control, but the couplers were stiff and wouldn't fit, so I had to move it inside.


The finished product. I forgot to take a picture of the remote, but you can see the cable poking out from the upper AC vents. This terminates in a 3.5mm plug (seen here) which is holding up the remote; the wire out from the remote then goes to a TRRS connector which plugs into the phone. This plug runs through a hole I drilled in the little tray below the radio and out of its door, so it can be tucked in when not in use. The phone sits in the ashtray. The only visible elements of the mod are the mic and switch on the panel and the remote chillin' next to the radio.

I wasn't too sure about the mic, but people say they can hear me clearly at highway speeds, so it seems to have been up to the job for less than $5, and that was the most expensive thing I bought. So I've got a good handsfree setup for under $15 in parts.

It also works for regular MP3 players and what-have-you with a 3.5mm jack, since in those applications the mic wire is just shorted to ground. It should work for regular phones using TRRS connectors as headset plugs too. Interesting note: because Apple is wack, they reversed the ground and microphone rings on the TRRS connector so that only iPhone-specific headsets work with iPhones and so that iPhone headsets work only with iPhones. Thus, my car's setup will work with any TRRS headset phone except the iPhone.
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SOLD 08/03/2011 D: Maxima: '97 SE 5sp: Pebble Beige, Bose, sunroof, gray cloth. No mods.

'91 Toyota MR2 non-turbo, 5spd, 220k, Red w/ t-tops. No mods.

'99 Volvo V70 T5, 5spd, ten billion miles, white, too-loud exhaust, too-dark tints, leaky valve guides for that delicious smoky aftertaste.

Last edited by j-dawg; 06-04-2010 at 09:07 PM..
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:13 PM   #238
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I have an 02 with the factory nav unit. I have the tape deck part out, but I am confused as to where I need to solder. Mine looks a little bit different than the one above and I'm not sure how much of that is used for your mic and how much is for the aux input. Since my board looks a little different, it's hard to tell where you soldered to. I am creating a silent CD to play while using this and I actually got the idea from this link: http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-...-your-cars-st/. I got this part from radio shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103451) and I am trying to solder the connections and mount it somewhere. Can someone please tell me where to solder?
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:46 PM   #239
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So here are some pictures of what I'm working with.

Here is what my unit looks like:
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a closeup of the board right next to the CD changer port (sorry it is a little fuzzy because I took it using my phone, but you can read the labels):
Click the image to open in full size.

And finally, a picture of the diagram on the back of the aux input jack I am trying to install on the board:
Click the image to open in full size.

I am using 18/2 stranded wire and I am ready to solder, but I haven't messed with circuitry before and want to make sure I don't do anything stupid. I am not really sure how to mount this aux jack really. Here is what it looks like:
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I'm not really sure how to connect this. Anyone care to help a little? Any advice helps. Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:15 PM   #240
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So I found all the 7 terminals but I'm not sure what to do with the other ends of the wires lol. I know I'm a retard, but can someone please explain what to do with the other ends and how they will connect to my 1/8" jack pictured above??
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:15 PM
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