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OEM Electrical System Upgrade II of II: BIG THREE, Grounding Kit Big Brother (HOW-TO)

Old 05-26-2010, 08:57 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
^^

You've got 2 out of the 3 in the big 3.

Battery Negative -> Car Chassis (this one doesn't seem to be done yet)
Battery negative -> Engine
Battery Positive -> Alternator
True enough - I will tackle that one next. What about grounding the actual alternator - any real point to this since it should already be grounded through it's chassis?
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:00 PM
  #82  
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Nah, not necessary.
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Old 05-27-2010, 05:22 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
I noticed that there is no grounding cable for the alternator - did you guys add one somewhere to the alternator chassis?
On the 4th gen there is not sure about the 5th gen. It's not gonna make a big difference but it won't hurt.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:30 PM
  #84  
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great write up! i think i have to do this on my car, i have a brand new alternator and battery but the battery is always low on charge. The begining of your post refers to this as a "Kit" were can i obtain a kit with everything i need? autozone?
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:08 PM
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Are ring terminals sufficient when connecting the grounding cables to the negative post? Or do i need to replace the entire positive and negative terminal connectors like you did to accept the larger wire?
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:04 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by 1995maximayea
great write up! i think i have to do this on my car, i have a brand new alternator and battery but the battery is always low on charge. The begining of your post refers to this as a "Kit" were can i obtain a kit with everything i need? autozone?
Don't bother - just buy some bulk wire and ring terminals.

Originally Posted by compton2k11
Are ring terminals sufficient when connecting the grounding cables to the negative post? Or do i need to replace the entire positive and negative terminal connectors like you did to accept the larger wire?
If your terminal has the real estate to accept a ring terminal then great. Some need to replace their terminals because they've run out of room and need the versatility.
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:13 PM
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This is a total placebo mod. All this talk about "reducing voltage drops" and he throws a 300a fuse in between the alternator and battery Upgrading the wiring can't hurt. But sanding down the surface of ground points provides little if no improvement to continuity. The stock terminals are secured with fat screws torqued into a threaded hole, plenty of surface area there, think 3rd dimensionally. There's absolutely no reason to sand paint away, in fact it will just rust easily and you'll be worse off down the road.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:36 AM
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Ok buddy
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:07 PM
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yeah, we all don't treat the bare metal after sanding since we all love rust to form. dontcha know?
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:52 AM
  #90  
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We allllllllllmost made it a year without it being bumped...
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:24 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Hectic
This is a total placebo mod. All this talk about "reducing voltage drops" and he throws a 300a fuse in between the alternator and battery Upgrading the wiring can't hurt. But sanding down the surface of ground points provides little if no improvement to continuity. The stock terminals are secured with fat screws torqued into a threaded hole, plenty of surface area there, think 3rd dimensionally. There's absolutely no reason to sand paint away, in fact it will just rust easily and you'll be worse off down the road.
Cars corrode over time and thousands of miles racked up as they are exposed to the elements daily this is why you should sand it down occasionally. The build up of corrosion can even prevent a car from starting. They didn't invent wire brushes for your hair.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
We allllllllllmost made it a year without it being bumped...
yeahhhh but it won't be org-like if old **** threads don't get randomly bumped up.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AscendantMax
yeahhhh but it won't be org-like if old **** threads don't get randomly bumped up.
I couldn't help it after reading the whole thread.

I used lowes 4ga few strand wire(cheaped out). Guess that was pointless.

Off to the audio shop tomorrow.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:53 PM
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2 years now....sorry had too.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:01 AM
  #95  
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Hey guys. I been dying to do some upgrades on the wires for a bit. My whole deal is this the stock positive battery cables. Does it have more than just alternator to battery. I see in the picture that he has the stock cables still attached on the extra side post of the battery or am I wrong. Stock cables have the 2 square terminals one fused. And joined together and that attaches to terminal right. So what's up wit that. Does the big 3 ultimately replace all that. Total separate wires to pos bat term. Would be just the 2 0 guage. What about the starter
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:50 AM
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I've done two of three (plus a transmission to engine ground), but I still need to do the alternator to battery. Where can I get the fuse and connectors? Does anyone have a part number? I'm having trouble finding the right one online and I don't want to order the wrong part.
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:29 PM
  #97  
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I just used standard car audio ring terminals & fuse holder. I bought these items from knukonceptz.com
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Old 07-05-2015, 06:34 AM
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I ordered this, is this correct?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231480771017
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:45 AM
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The fuse holder will work. I don't know why it comes with a 300 amp fuse. That fuse exceeds the current capability of 4ga cable. Just be sure to use a smaller fuse.
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:27 PM
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Ok. I just purchased that because I have extra 4 gauge wire and I thought the 300 amp was because of the alternator like the original post said. So I should get a 0/1 wire and a 0/1 holder with 300 amp fuse then?
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Old 07-05-2015, 07:54 PM
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Our alternators don't put out that much current. You can use 4ga....just fuse it for what the wire can handle. The knukonceptz 4ga I used is rated for 150 amps.
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