djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

1. 04 onwards
2. Not worth it.

Blackmax1924

iTrader: (7)

ok well this is my first time being in this section of the forums but i am not a complete newb when it comes to speakers subs wiring and all the fun electronic stuff. but i do have a couple questions when it comes to the installation of aftermarket speakers in the front door with a stock bose system. I have already replaced my hu years ago with no problems and now its time to get rid of the bose setup all together. so since the bose speakers wires runs right off of the amp what do i use to power the speakers since using the bose amp could possibly ruin either the aftermarket speakers or the amp? I was thinking just find the positive and negative in the plug from the door connecting to the amp which then goes to the bose speaker. but then that seems too easy so im thinking there has to be more to it, is there?


I really wanna get these speakers into i got them from my buddy theyre actually pretty nice speakers and sound pretty impressive they are polk audio i believe db650's. not positive on the part number but they sound good through test trials . so any help possible is more than appreciated.

Thanks

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

If you really know, then it should be quite obvious. Run new speaker wires into the doors.

Blackmax1924

iTrader: (7)

well clearly it is not that obvious and i really dont know seeing as i got it wrong as to what i said. clearly reading is your strong point....

but thanks for the help dont need to flame for a question. if anything flame the other newbs in this thread asking the same question about hu over and over and over again.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

You're absolute best bet = remove the entire bose enclosure, cut and mount some MDF or other material mounting rings, run new speaker wires from the deck directly to the speakers.

Blackmax1924

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for your help I appreciate it, hopefully ill get it done this weekend.

Thanks again.

McLaren15

Ya that's right I said tape deck! I know they are useless now but mine has recently began to make a ton of noise. The metal piece inside that holds the tape and lowers it comes up and snaps down over and over and over again even when my car is off. It doesn't happen all the time just randomly it will start doing it. I was wondering if anyone had come across this problem before or has any way of fixing it. I was thinking of just trying to look for individual power wire to the tape and cut it but I'm not sure if that will work and how I do it.

Things I've tried:
- Disconnecting car battery to reset (Fail)
- putting a tape in/on/in/on (Fail)
- going apes//t on it with a pen (Fail) kidding..

Any ideas? Or possible instructions on getting to that wire to stop it?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Setting aside the conversation about WHY you still are using a tape deck....

You'd have to open up the HU and find the wire (or solder lead) that leads to the tape deck motor/actuator - and somehow cut the wire or break the lead.

Cutting the power to the HU will kill ALL of its functionality, including radio.

Honestly, suck it up, spend $150 and get a new aftermarket deck.

whiteghost

I have a 5th gen with the factory bose system and I'm trying to install an amp and sub while keeping everything else stock using the PAC SNI-15 line out converter[http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28]. I have everything hooked up and the amp turns on but no sound from the sub. I already verified that the amp and sub does indeed work hooked up straight into an ipod.

I have searched for days on this and only came up with this: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/5th...ing-codes.html

I have the LOC connected to left (pin 17 & 18) and right (pin 41 &42) rear speaker level outputs.

Am I doing this right? Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

whiteghost

nevermind.....ditched the LOC and got the amp and sub to work. thanks anyways

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Curious if anyone knows what size aftermarket tweeter I can mount in the stock pillar location. Size, and Depth....Any help would be greatly appreciated! Looking for new components for my 01 I30

xorbitman

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know if there is a Single Din Dash kit in Aluminum finish for the 2005 Nissan Maxima no Nav Bose?

I have been on google all day and I can't seem to find anything...even did a search on Maxima.org too.

philpoe

iTrader: (4)

www.metraonline.com
Single DIN = 99-7404

available on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

Akilldema

I bought the harnesses/adapter this thread advises, but my AVIC-D3 sounds unusually quiet. (2000 Maxima SE Bose). Any suggestions?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Preout voltage on the D3 is only 2.2volts. You're going to have to use an LOC instead of the 70-7551.

Akilldema

So I basically I am going to need to remove the 70-7551 and use the LOC in it's stead? Is the Scosche(sp?) one good? http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/999

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Actually, you still need the Metra 70-7551. You'll no longer use the RCA preouts coming from the HU. Instead, you'll use the speaker leads. The LOC will be inserted in between the speaker leads and the 70-7551 and will convert the signal from high level to preout level.

Speaker wires coming from aftermarket HU --> LOC --> RCA's on 70-7551

The Scosche one is fine, Scosche SLC4. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4.html

Akilldema

Thanks, you're the man. This website has helped me 2x in 24 hours.

Akilldema

Another Q, what settings do I need to use on the LOC when it arrives? Just leave it as is?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The only settings are the gains - which you set based on volume. No standard there, just go by what sounds good, ensuring you're not clipping at max volume.

JohnD1079

Hey guys, I want to put the Bose setup (Minus the HU) into my old Honda. From what I understand, all I will need is the Metra 70-1724? http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-1724 . I think that my aftermarket HU only has two RCA plugs, can I just split them up?

Also, Im not quite sure how that harness works, will I have to splice into anything?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Uhhhhhhhh. WHY.

That's definitely not the right harness. Huge waste of time for a sub-par system.

JohnD1079

Why is it not the right harness? If so, which one is?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I'm generally pretty helpful and responsive around these forums, but for this reqeuest, I'm not going to spend the time to look up the necessary harness. It probably doesn't even exist.

The amount of effort needed to install the Bose system from a Maxima into a Honda is not worth it. I cringe at just the time it would take to map out all the wiring coming in and out of the Bose amp itself.

Find a better alternative.

saccento

i am getting some distortion after installing a pioneer avicu310-bt unit. I first used the regular metra harness, but then purchased the 70-7551 hoping the noise will go away but it hasn't.. any help guys?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Need more info. Bose or non-Bose? Aftermarket components installed?

JohnD1079

Well this is for my 17 yr old daily accord. As you and I know, it takes about 20 seconds to get into my car with just a hanger and a screwdriver, so Im not trying to spend any amount of money to "upgrade" my sound. I only have 1 working component in the rear, and the rest are blown. ANYTHING is an upgrade. I just want the music to sound decent, not going for competition or anything. Plus the sizes are the same 6.5' all around.

I looked under my maxima's rear deck and saw 4 wires to a speaker, so Im assuming a +, - and power and ground for the amp, right? Im not scared of going extra work like pulling new speaker and power wire throughout the car. Its the spending any amount of $$ into a $500 car that can be broken into by anyone, which is why I am not going to buy aftermarket speakers and use something stock from another car that I can get from a junkyard.

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

This might be of some help to you!?!

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/5th...ing-codes.html

sakolig187

Ok guys this is a long thread so I didn't really get a chance to check every post. Here goes... I got a 2000 maxima bose system. The sub blew a few years ago and I was able to fix it up with some silicone a while back. The sub would go in an out for a long time so finally I was fed up and decided to unplug it. Yesterday I really had the urge to hear some bass in my car so I plugged it back in an for about ten minutes was in heaven because It felt like my Max again..... womp womp womp, dead again...

I started messing around with the wires and found that there was a short in the amp relay on the sub, not the big amp located on the opposite end of the sub but the actual small amp on the sub. I took it off and saw some burn marks on the small electric panel. I took it off and now I'm looking for one of two recommendations...

1) Do I replace the subwoofer amp relay (ground, power, remote...etc.) and where in the world would I find it??

2) Snip the wires (green, white, black, black, red) from the large amp and connect it directly to the sub? What wires do I cut and connect to positive and negative on the sub?

PLEASE HELPPP!!! THANKS

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Just buy a used sub assembly from someone that pulled theirs out. Search/post on the audio/electronics CLASSIFIEDS section of this forum.

Do NOT do option #2.

sakolig187

Thanks for the quick reply DJ I was really about to try some trial and error....

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Lol, not a good idea. You'll blow the amp with the added load. Then you'll have TWO pieces of equipment to replace.

Blackmax1924

iTrader: (7)

Alright well i posted a little while back about replacing my front bose speakers and putting in some pols audios. But i never went through with it because the sound of the system is already impressive enough. But however I do want to use the speakers so my original plan and plan for now is to mount them in the rear doors. However these speakers are 4 ohms and the bose are 2 ohm. So would the impedence difference be that noticeable if I ran wires to the doors from the same amp that my bose speakers are run off or let alone power and play them? If so how would I go about doing this without having a sound difference from the front speakers and rear deck speackers to the rear door speakers? I understand just running wires from my headunit but then I feel as if they would be played at a different wattage and wouldnt be as loud and would sound bad because of it.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
Stephen

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

^^^ Can't be done. You'll blow your amp, or your speakers.

You'll have to use an aftermarket amp if you want to use aftermarket speakers.

Do you still have an OEM Head unit?

Stagnet04

iTrader: (28)

Anyone know if there is some kind of re-wire audio kit for a 98 max? Iv decided to ditch the crippled bose system and go all aftermarket,HU,components, speakers. I know the best/only way to do this is to re-wire the whole car, but is there like a kit or even a list of the exact things I might need to do this? I know an audio shop will want a sh!tload of money to do this, so any help will be much appreciated....

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Nope, just add an aftermarket HU, run RCA's, power wire, speaker wire, and wire up your amps like a standard aftermarket system.

Stagnet04

iTrader: (28)

So thats basically whats considered a "re-wire" right? so I should buy Hu, component speakers(for the front) 6.5 for the rear and a four channel amp? Iv never re-wired a car but have hooked up speakers and amps....

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yessir. Pretty much the same thing. You're just running new speaker wire and using aftermarket amps instead of using the existing amps/wiring/speakers.

Stagnet04

iTrader: (28)

oh ok cool, that doesnt seem so bad. Im doing this! lol! think im so cool....

Thanks bro....

Spyguy

iTrader: (1)

Quick question, what do I do with the Amp on + wire that comes from my metra harness?