The BOSE Radio/Speaker Replacement thread
#81
Just $50? They tried to screw me over a few years ago when I was driving an older Infiniti and they quoted me $140 to install because it's Bose. Then I learned how to do it myself lol, I've put in 4 or 5 since then...it's very easy but honestly, if you're not comfortable at all doing it, got time to waste and can easily afford the install, just let them do it.
#83
So I ordered a single-DIN headunit from Crutchfield and they sent me the universal pocket kit (Metra 88-00-9000). I can't seem to make this fit without a large gap between the HU and the pocket. I guess I need to order the specific Nissan Metra kit or is there a way to make this work?
#84
riccio76 - I would suggest you having it installed if you do not feel comfortable with cutting wires and what not. You def need a headunit with sub preouts, it will make like alot easier and will give you more control of the subwoofer as an individual piece of equipment. I wish i could be of more help as far as the install goes, but i am not familiar with the 2000, only 96-99's. I wish you luck and if you have anymore questions, post away!
VQuick - i would suggest you just buying the right one, its like 15-20 bux, and be done with it.
VQuick - i would suggest you just buying the right one, its like 15-20 bux, and be done with it.
#87
OK, so I hooked everything up with the 70-7551 kit with the RCA jacks...and now it's unbelievably, incredibly quiet. Turned up all the way on the headunit, it sounds like volume level 10 on the Bose. WTF?
#89
Pioneer DEH-P7700MP. It sounds nice and crisp, clear...but it's incredibly quiet and there's no bass coming from the sub so basically, the amp and the sub aren't hooked up somehow even though everything is connected I guess.
Last edited by Evil Empire; 04-23-2008 at 01:37 PM.
#90
Audio newb here. I have Bose on my 01. Someone please correct me if I am wrong: Is it possible to replace the stock bose speakers with aftermarket and keep the stock headunit? I wasn't able to quite figure this out just by reading. Thanks for your help.
#91
Ima noob too, bought a new 07 SL last week, looking to up the sound.
I did get the Bose package, but there isn't enough bass. I have 2 10" Alpine type E's (stop laughing) and an alpine (400W?) amp from my previous car. Is it possible to add the subs without altering the current audio sound. Basically, is there an open set of rca's on the back of the 07 Bose unit?
If thats not possible, i do have an Alpine CDA-9857 head unit, but i am skeptical on what a single slot head unit is going to look like in the dash of my new car. I got everything with the car except the Nav since i already had a little TomTom, so it has the older looking red board screen. Anyone have a pic of a single slot deck in an 07 sl?
I did get the Bose package, but there isn't enough bass. I have 2 10" Alpine type E's (stop laughing) and an alpine (400W?) amp from my previous car. Is it possible to add the subs without altering the current audio sound. Basically, is there an open set of rca's on the back of the 07 Bose unit?
If thats not possible, i do have an Alpine CDA-9857 head unit, but i am skeptical on what a single slot head unit is going to look like in the dash of my new car. I got everything with the car except the Nav since i already had a little TomTom, so it has the older looking red board screen. Anyone have a pic of a single slot deck in an 07 sl?
#93
I just want to apologizing for taking so long to get back to you peeps, been busy with finals and ****.
Evil Empire - I have had a similar problem with my bose system bein very quiet after installing the new HU to the stock bose system. To my knowledge, the voltage difference is the cause of the lower volume. Bose runs their signals with a higher voltage. Chances are, with your pioneer as well as my alpine, the preamp output voltage is too little. You can buy signal boosting kits, although i havent found one yet that i would even buy. To find a remedy, start scouring the internet for rca "line driver" kits.
AEMAXIMA01 - Yes, the speakers run off of the bose amplifier which is tuned in to work the speakers at 1 ohm. if you were to put 4 ohm speakers, you would eventually burn out the voice coils. If you are going to replace the speakers, you should just change out the headunit as well. You do not benefit by keeping that stock headunit in anyway aside from asthetic purposes and it matches the car.
Essentially though, you could keep it if you wanted to, but you would need to purchase an aftermarket amplifier to power the speakers, and from there, you would need to run the signal wires from the bose HU to the new amp you installed which would mean you would have to splice them to RCA's so they would work with the new amp. Honestly, it is much easier to buy a new HU.
Meangunz - Yes, you can add those subs and amp to your bose premium system. I am unsure if the new BOSE HU's have rca preamps out the back, i highly, highly, highly, doubt it. You need to get a line converter so that you can splice into the rear deck speakers. What you do is tap off the rear deck, so you have a plus and minus from each speaker andyou run that to the converter. The converter cleans up the messy speaker power signal, amplifies it, and turns it into a low level RCA signal. Then your signal comes out of the converter through the RCA connectors which will then connect right to your alpine amp. You will not have individual subwoofer control and the bass will be controlled by the bass **** on the bose Hu right now. So if you increase the bass, all of the bass in the speakers including the subwoofers will increase as well. Make sure you tune the typ e's with the gain on the amp. And type e's are nothing to laugh at by the way. Everyone'es taste for bass is different and so is everyones budget. I have gona from liking super bassy to still likeing super bassy but i would rather smaller subs, like the type e's which are smaller and take up less space and also need less power. Be proud of what you have, it isnt always a contest unless you make it one.
riccio76 - You are very welcome, if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. this goes for everyone as well
Evil Empire - I have had a similar problem with my bose system bein very quiet after installing the new HU to the stock bose system. To my knowledge, the voltage difference is the cause of the lower volume. Bose runs their signals with a higher voltage. Chances are, with your pioneer as well as my alpine, the preamp output voltage is too little. You can buy signal boosting kits, although i havent found one yet that i would even buy. To find a remedy, start scouring the internet for rca "line driver" kits.
AEMAXIMA01 - Yes, the speakers run off of the bose amplifier which is tuned in to work the speakers at 1 ohm. if you were to put 4 ohm speakers, you would eventually burn out the voice coils. If you are going to replace the speakers, you should just change out the headunit as well. You do not benefit by keeping that stock headunit in anyway aside from asthetic purposes and it matches the car.
Essentially though, you could keep it if you wanted to, but you would need to purchase an aftermarket amplifier to power the speakers, and from there, you would need to run the signal wires from the bose HU to the new amp you installed which would mean you would have to splice them to RCA's so they would work with the new amp. Honestly, it is much easier to buy a new HU.
Meangunz - Yes, you can add those subs and amp to your bose premium system. I am unsure if the new BOSE HU's have rca preamps out the back, i highly, highly, highly, doubt it. You need to get a line converter so that you can splice into the rear deck speakers. What you do is tap off the rear deck, so you have a plus and minus from each speaker andyou run that to the converter. The converter cleans up the messy speaker power signal, amplifies it, and turns it into a low level RCA signal. Then your signal comes out of the converter through the RCA connectors which will then connect right to your alpine amp. You will not have individual subwoofer control and the bass will be controlled by the bass **** on the bose Hu right now. So if you increase the bass, all of the bass in the speakers including the subwoofers will increase as well. Make sure you tune the typ e's with the gain on the amp. And type e's are nothing to laugh at by the way. Everyone'es taste for bass is different and so is everyones budget. I have gona from liking super bassy to still likeing super bassy but i would rather smaller subs, like the type e's which are smaller and take up less space and also need less power. Be proud of what you have, it isnt always a contest unless you make it one.
riccio76 - You are very welcome, if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. this goes for everyone as well
#94
I just want to apologizing for taking so long to get back to you peeps, been busy with finals and ****.
AEMAXIMA01 - Yes, the speakers run off of the bose amplifier which is tuned in to work the speakers at 1 ohm. if you were to put 4 ohm speakers, you would eventually burn out the voice coils. If you are going to replace the speakers, you should just change out the headunit as well. You do not benefit by keeping that stock headunit in anyway aside from asthetic purposes and it matches the car.
Essentially though, you could keep it if you wanted to, but you would need to purchase an aftermarket amplifier to power the speakers, and from there, you would need to run the signal wires from the bose HU to the new amp you installed which would mean you would have to splice them to RCA's so they would work with the new amp. Honestly, it is much easier to buy a new HU.
AEMAXIMA01 - Yes, the speakers run off of the bose amplifier which is tuned in to work the speakers at 1 ohm. if you were to put 4 ohm speakers, you would eventually burn out the voice coils. If you are going to replace the speakers, you should just change out the headunit as well. You do not benefit by keeping that stock headunit in anyway aside from asthetic purposes and it matches the car.
Essentially though, you could keep it if you wanted to, but you would need to purchase an aftermarket amplifier to power the speakers, and from there, you would need to run the signal wires from the bose HU to the new amp you installed which would mean you would have to splice them to RCA's so they would work with the new amp. Honestly, it is much easier to buy a new HU.
#95
Like i said though, it is possible. It all depends on how much you really want to get into the nitty gritty wiring. If you do like the stock look, may i suggest that you get a double din touchscreen? Those look really nice as a stock replacement because it doesnt have a billion ***** usually, pertruding in all directions that doesnt look stock. With a screen, its flat, and it flows with the car most of the time.
I was hooked, for the longest time on the whole "i want and like the stock look" but when it came to and came to pass, i am soo happy that i was able to rid myself of the piece of junk that is BOSE HU. And atleast with this thread, i hope that i can help those who are having trouble getting things to work properly. I spent a bit of time working out the kinks of my setup now, of which many people have PM'ed me thanking me for the fixes supplied as they too were caught up on them as well.
If you like the bose, keep it until it goes to **** and keep a contingency fund so that when it does begin to burp and hiccup, you can get rid of it
I was hooked, for the longest time on the whole "i want and like the stock look" but when it came to and came to pass, i am soo happy that i was able to rid myself of the piece of junk that is BOSE HU. And atleast with this thread, i hope that i can help those who are having trouble getting things to work properly. I spent a bit of time working out the kinks of my setup now, of which many people have PM'ed me thanking me for the fixes supplied as they too were caught up on them as well.
If you like the bose, keep it until it goes to **** and keep a contingency fund so that when it does begin to burp and hiccup, you can get rid of it
#96
Like i said though, it is possible. It all depends on how much you really want to get into the nitty gritty wiring. If you do like the stock look, may i suggest that you get a double din touchscreen? Those look really nice as a stock replacement because it doesnt have a billion ***** usually, pertruding in all directions that doesnt look stock. With a screen, its flat, and it flows with the car most of the time.
I was hooked, for the longest time on the whole "i want and like the stock look" but when it came to and came to pass, i am soo happy that i was able to rid myself of the piece of junk that is BOSE HU. And atleast with this thread, i hope that i can help those who are having trouble getting things to work properly. I spent a bit of time working out the kinks of my setup now, of which many people have PM'ed me thanking me for the fixes supplied as they too were caught up on them as well.
If you like the bose, keep it until it goes to **** and keep a contingency fund so that when it does begin to burp and hiccup, you can get rid of it
I was hooked, for the longest time on the whole "i want and like the stock look" but when it came to and came to pass, i am soo happy that i was able to rid myself of the piece of junk that is BOSE HU. And atleast with this thread, i hope that i can help those who are having trouble getting things to work properly. I spent a bit of time working out the kinks of my setup now, of which many people have PM'ed me thanking me for the fixes supplied as they too were caught up on them as well.
If you like the bose, keep it until it goes to **** and keep a contingency fund so that when it does begin to burp and hiccup, you can get rid of it
#97
well, this is the true game now isnt it. You can spend from a few hundred to a few thousand easy. I havent heard the bose system that you, so i wouldnt be able to tell you howw worth it it would be. The bose sound system in my car handles music alot better than my mom's 9 speaker bose in her volvo s80, so i suppose it varies.
a good aftermarket amp, is going to run you a bit, same as with components. If you are an audio newb, i wouldnt suggest you try to rewire it all up. it would be good for someone to show you so you could learn. if you did want to attempt it, we could guide you as much as possible
a good aftermarket amp, is going to run you a bit, same as with components. If you are an audio newb, i wouldnt suggest you try to rewire it all up. it would be good for someone to show you so you could learn. if you did want to attempt it, we could guide you as much as possible
#98
well, this is the true game now isnt it. You can spend from a few hundred to a few thousand easy. I havent heard the bose system that you, so i wouldnt be able to tell you howw worth it it would be. The bose sound system in my car handles music alot better than my mom's 9 speaker bose in her volvo s80, so i suppose it varies.
a good aftermarket amp, is going to run you a bit, same as with components. If you are an audio newb, i wouldnt suggest you try to rewire it all up. it would be good for someone to show you so you could learn. if you did want to attempt it, we could guide you as much as possible
a good aftermarket amp, is going to run you a bit, same as with components. If you are an audio newb, i wouldnt suggest you try to rewire it all up. it would be good for someone to show you so you could learn. if you did want to attempt it, we could guide you as much as possible
#99
You SuB, I don't believe my bose sub is playing right, it's on but to me it's low. Is that the best it can do ? I have the 70-7551 harness on a alpine 9807 (ol'school). Fronts sound great though rears not as good.
#100
Meangunz - Yes, you can add those subs and amp to your bose premium system. I am unsure if the new BOSE HU's have rca preamps out the back, i highly, highly, highly, doubt it. You need to get a line converter so that you can splice into the rear deck speakers. What you do is tap off the rear deck, so you have a plus and minus from each speaker andyou run that to the converter. The converter cleans up the messy speaker power signal, amplifies it, and turns it into a low level RCA signal. Then your signal comes out of the converter through the RCA connectors which will then connect right to your alpine amp. You will not have individual subwoofer control and the bass will be controlled by the bass **** on the bose Hu right now. So if you increase the bass, all of the bass in the speakers including the subwoofers will increase as well. Make sure you tune the typ e's with the gain on the amp. And type e's are nothing to laugh at by the way. Everyone'es taste for bass is different and so is everyones budget. I have gona from liking super bassy to still likeing super bassy but i would rather smaller subs, like the type e's which are smaller and take up less space and also need less power. Be proud of what you have, it isnt always a contest unless you make it one.
I still have not been able to find an 07/08 with a single din deck installed to get a feel for what it would look like so I am thinking about selling the deck and putting the money towards some rims or something. I have also been told that if I switched to an aftermarket deck I would lose my steering wheel volume control. I know its really petty and lazy, but I love those things. If your going to spend a bunch of money on an SL to get comfy, you might as well get the whole package!
#101
The biggest difference between hooking up your subs to the bose HU and a new deck is the type of subwoofer control that you have. If you buy a deck with subwoofer preouts, you will be able to boost and lower the subwoofer volume via the headunit.
With the bose headunit and tapping into the rear deck, you will lose this control on the headunit.
In both situations, you need to tweak the gain on ur amplifier to match the setup regardless of what deck you get. The gain makes sure that it would sound the same with either deck, only perk to the aftermarket HU is the fact that u can increase the bass at will via the HU. This is a pretty nice feature to have, but not always necessary. Also make a note that with either the bose deck or new deck, when you adjust the bass controls, it will adjust the bass for the whole system including your subs.
I have seen modules on the internet that let you interface your steering wheel controls to a new aftermarket headunit, however, i havent had any experience with this what so ever and is a great thing to have. You shouldnt have to sacrifice usibility when chnaging your system, but this may be a decision you may have to make. I am looking into this more because if i buy the altima coupe, it has steering wheel controls which i would like to maintain if i do a system swap so i will most likely be looking into this more.
Also, buying the aftermarket hu means that you may need to get a line driver to boost the signal to the bose amp/amps, so that you dont have decreased volume. I havent found aline driver yet that i would buy, doesnt seem to be a super common thing, but i am keeping my eyes peeled.
With the bose headunit and tapping into the rear deck, you will lose this control on the headunit.
In both situations, you need to tweak the gain on ur amplifier to match the setup regardless of what deck you get. The gain makes sure that it would sound the same with either deck, only perk to the aftermarket HU is the fact that u can increase the bass at will via the HU. This is a pretty nice feature to have, but not always necessary. Also make a note that with either the bose deck or new deck, when you adjust the bass controls, it will adjust the bass for the whole system including your subs.
I have seen modules on the internet that let you interface your steering wheel controls to a new aftermarket headunit, however, i havent had any experience with this what so ever and is a great thing to have. You shouldnt have to sacrifice usibility when chnaging your system, but this may be a decision you may have to make. I am looking into this more because if i buy the altima coupe, it has steering wheel controls which i would like to maintain if i do a system swap so i will most likely be looking into this more.
Also, buying the aftermarket hu means that you may need to get a line driver to boost the signal to the bose amp/amps, so that you dont have decreased volume. I havent found aline driver yet that i would buy, doesnt seem to be a super common thing, but i am keeping my eyes peeled.
#103
The biggest difference between hooking up your subs to the bose HU and a new deck is the type of subwoofer control that you have. If you buy a deck with subwoofer preouts, you will be able to boost and lower the subwoofer volume via the headunit.
With the bose headunit and tapping into the rear deck, you will lose this control on the headunit.
In both situations, you need to tweak the gain on ur amplifier to match the setup regardless of what deck you get. The gain makes sure that it would sound the same with either deck, only perk to the aftermarket HU is the fact that u can increase the bass at will via the HU. This is a pretty nice feature to have, but not always necessary. Also make a note that with either the bose deck or new deck, when you adjust the bass controls, it will adjust the bass for the whole system including your subs.
I have seen modules on the internet that let you interface your steering wheel controls to a new aftermarket headunit, however, i havent had any experience with this what so ever and is a great thing to have. You shouldnt have to sacrifice usibility when chnaging your system, but this may be a decision you may have to make. I am looking into this more because if i buy the altima coupe, it has steering wheel controls which i would like to maintain if i do a system swap so i will most likely be looking into this more.
Also, buying the aftermarket hu means that you may need to get a line driver to boost the signal to the bose amp/amps, so that you dont have decreased volume. I havent found aline driver yet that i would buy, doesnt seem to be a super common thing, but i am keeping my eyes peeled.
With the bose headunit and tapping into the rear deck, you will lose this control on the headunit.
In both situations, you need to tweak the gain on ur amplifier to match the setup regardless of what deck you get. The gain makes sure that it would sound the same with either deck, only perk to the aftermarket HU is the fact that u can increase the bass at will via the HU. This is a pretty nice feature to have, but not always necessary. Also make a note that with either the bose deck or new deck, when you adjust the bass controls, it will adjust the bass for the whole system including your subs.
I have seen modules on the internet that let you interface your steering wheel controls to a new aftermarket headunit, however, i havent had any experience with this what so ever and is a great thing to have. You shouldnt have to sacrifice usibility when chnaging your system, but this may be a decision you may have to make. I am looking into this more because if i buy the altima coupe, it has steering wheel controls which i would like to maintain if i do a system swap so i will most likely be looking into this more.
Also, buying the aftermarket hu means that you may need to get a line driver to boost the signal to the bose amp/amps, so that you dont have decreased volume. I havent found aline driver yet that i would buy, doesnt seem to be a super common thing, but i am keeping my eyes peeled.
This particular unit has sub out control so i can adjust the sub volume without changing the other speakers. Still not sure if its worth it. I am going to call BB today and see what they have to say about the situation.
#104
Peabo5000 - No, not that i know of.
Meangunz - screw BB, they will want you to do it because they want ur monies, BB and CC arent always the best places to get **** done, i havent gotten anything done there before, mostly i have heard horror stories.
you have to make this decision youself, what do you want.
Meangunz - screw BB, they will want you to do it because they want ur monies, BB and CC arent always the best places to get **** done, i havent gotten anything done there before, mostly i have heard horror stories.
you have to make this decision youself, what do you want.
#105
whats going on guys?? noobie here....im planning on taking out those worthless bose speakers and replacing them. does anybody happen to know where the amp to the 2004 maxima are and which would be the quickest way to change out those ugly things.
#106
Thanks Subxero for this thread and to everyone who has posted so much great information. I understand the Bose replacement issue so much better now. Too bad I didn't know all this last Sat...
My Bose CD player started going out on my 02 Maxima a couple months ago. The left speaker would cut in and out (only on CD) and sometimes it would stop playing for a few seconds or minutes at a time. I thought that was an easy fix. I went to CC and picked out a nice Pioneer HU with direct iPod control. Then they started talking about compatibility and stuff and I ended up getting all new speakers (Polk Audio.) I didn't want a big box in my trunk so I thought I would see if I could get by with no sub. On the way home, I discovered two things: my steering column buttons didn't work, and my speakers were nice, but I couldn't live without a sub.
I googled "maxima bose cd" and that's when I started to understand the Bose issues. So yesterday I went to a car audio shop to discuss what I needed. They were great. I got a 10" free air sub which they custom-mounted to the rear deck, right where the old Bose sub used to be. Now it sounds awesome. They also installed a steering wheel interface. It works fine, and I have my buttons back.
kc
My Bose CD player started going out on my 02 Maxima a couple months ago. The left speaker would cut in and out (only on CD) and sometimes it would stop playing for a few seconds or minutes at a time. I thought that was an easy fix. I went to CC and picked out a nice Pioneer HU with direct iPod control. Then they started talking about compatibility and stuff and I ended up getting all new speakers (Polk Audio.) I didn't want a big box in my trunk so I thought I would see if I could get by with no sub. On the way home, I discovered two things: my steering column buttons didn't work, and my speakers were nice, but I couldn't live without a sub.
I googled "maxima bose cd" and that's when I started to understand the Bose issues. So yesterday I went to a car audio shop to discuss what I needed. They were great. I got a 10" free air sub which they custom-mounted to the rear deck, right where the old Bose sub used to be. Now it sounds awesome. They also installed a steering wheel interface. It works fine, and I have my buttons back.
kc
#107
Peabo5000 - No, not that i know of.
Meangunz - screw BB, they will want you to do it because they want ur monies, BB and CC arent always the best places to get **** done, i havent gotten anything done there before, mostly i have heard horror stories.
you have to make this decision youself, what do you want.
Meangunz - screw BB, they will want you to do it because they want ur monies, BB and CC arent always the best places to get **** done, i havent gotten anything done there before, mostly i have heard horror stories.
you have to make this decision youself, what do you want.
#108
kc02max - 10 inch free air sub? which brand did you get by chance? Its a good thing that you went in and spoke with them Retaining steering wheel control ovr music is important to most people and the fact that the original installers didntnotify you that you would lose control was kind of ****, not gonna lie. Happy that it all worked out and hope you enjoy your new fixed system haha.
OMARL956 - try pming nismos14, he is alotbetter with stuff non 96-99 then i am, he may be able to help you more.
Meangunz - i am so happy to hear that things worked out and you talked to other people than just BB, what you did was good and is something you should always do. You never get just one doctors opinion before surgery. I forgot tomention the remote bass boost in the previous posts which i do apologize for. My Rockford Fosgate amp has a remote bass boost and tbh i never used it when i had everything hooked up to my completely stock BOSE system. I dont know if your amp comes with a rmeote bass boost or if they are going to put something inline with the amp signal wires, but all in all, i am happy that you are happy. You may have spent $250, and its alot of hard earned money to spend if you arent doing it yourself and/or dont know how to, but atleast they told you exactly what they are doing and seem to know what they are doing, gratz man.
OMARL956 - try pming nismos14, he is alotbetter with stuff non 96-99 then i am, he may be able to help you more.
Meangunz - i am so happy to hear that things worked out and you talked to other people than just BB, what you did was good and is something you should always do. You never get just one doctors opinion before surgery. I forgot tomention the remote bass boost in the previous posts which i do apologize for. My Rockford Fosgate amp has a remote bass boost and tbh i never used it when i had everything hooked up to my completely stock BOSE system. I dont know if your amp comes with a rmeote bass boost or if they are going to put something inline with the amp signal wires, but all in all, i am happy that you are happy. You may have spent $250, and its alot of hard earned money to spend if you arent doing it yourself and/or dont know how to, but atleast they told you exactly what they are doing and seem to know what they are doing, gratz man.
#109
Thanks for the answers, SuBXeRo...
I'm gonna install the amp integration kit from Crutchfield for '94-up Nissan/Infiniti, not the one with the RCAs but with the wires for soldering and the little black box control module in the middle after having it recommended by a few members from NICO. If it doesn't work, I'm gonna ****in' rip my hair out from tryin' different crap lol.
I'll report back with my findings tomorrow.
I'm gonna install the amp integration kit from Crutchfield for '94-up Nissan/Infiniti, not the one with the RCAs but with the wires for soldering and the little black box control module in the middle after having it recommended by a few members from NICO. If it doesn't work, I'm gonna ****in' rip my hair out from tryin' different crap lol.
I'll report back with my findings tomorrow.
#110
kc02max - 10 inch free air sub? which brand did you get by chance? Its a good thing that you went in and spoke with them Retaining steering wheel control ovr music is important to most people and the fact that the original installers didntnotify you that you would lose control was kind of ****, not gonna lie.
When I called CC about the steering buttons not working, he said, "Oh! I didn't even notice that you had those!" wtf? Said they could order the adapter for me. I think they don't want to tell you up front you that you need custom-ordered parts because then you'd want to wait and do the whole install after the parts arrived. That would give you time to change your mind.
Also... they put the HU in a stock deck install unit which leaves space around the edges. After the fact, they said they'd order a custom Maxima w/ Bose install kit. Still waiting for that.
#111
Im going to be doing the Pioneer HU swap this coming week. Best Buy only carries some periphial brand $100 unit to maintain my steering wheel controls.. BS!
A post in the FAQ section recommended the PAC-SWI-PS interface.. which is $65 on their website. That's still a bit tacky for the application so are there any other (cheaper) alternatives or places to buy this that someone knows??
Thanks
A post in the FAQ section recommended the PAC-SWI-PS interface.. which is $65 on their website. That's still a bit tacky for the application so are there any other (cheaper) alternatives or places to buy this that someone knows??
Thanks
#112
Well, I installed the Amplifier Integration crap today that I ordered from Crutchfield for $40. This is the one I'm talking about -
And it works REALLY well. No decrease in sound quality at all from the stock system, it sounds crisper and deeper. The only weird thing is that you barely get any bass response from the stock sub when the volume is really, really low unlike the stock radio. But once you turn it up a little bit, the sound comes in rich and full. Extremely easy and quick install, price is OK but ****ty that they don't have any for sale on eBay so I had to pay the full Crutchfield price of $40 but it's definitely worth it. I would certainly recommend this product.
*** EMILBUS *** You can find the steering interface for $44 shipped from eBay. Here's the link -
http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-SWI-PS-for-P...QQcmdZViewItem
And it works REALLY well. No decrease in sound quality at all from the stock system, it sounds crisper and deeper. The only weird thing is that you barely get any bass response from the stock sub when the volume is really, really low unlike the stock radio. But once you turn it up a little bit, the sound comes in rich and full. Extremely easy and quick install, price is OK but ****ty that they don't have any for sale on eBay so I had to pay the full Crutchfield price of $40 but it's definitely worth it. I would certainly recommend this product.
*** EMILBUS *** You can find the steering interface for $44 shipped from eBay. Here's the link -
http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-SWI-PS-for-P...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by Evil Empire; 05-09-2008 at 04:35 PM.
#113
wuzzy,
2 ways are fine. Make sure you get 6.5" speakers. Also some advice since you are going to do the radio first run your sub pre-outs and your amp trigger wire.
Now onto my questions. I have installed many audio components on honda's but never on my 95 maxima. Here are my questions. What's the best spot to run a power cable for an amp? I'm thinking of putting the amp in the trunk since it's pretty big. I'm also replacing all the speakers and BOSE radio. Where is the best write-up for removing all 6 speakers (2 tweeters) and the head unit? Also I usually like to run the rcas separate from the amp power cable to minimize distortion, do you guys have a good place to route the rcas? And finally I'll be running a satellite antenna. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe through sunroof.
2 ways are fine. Make sure you get 6.5" speakers. Also some advice since you are going to do the radio first run your sub pre-outs and your amp trigger wire.
Now onto my questions. I have installed many audio components on honda's but never on my 95 maxima. Here are my questions. What's the best spot to run a power cable for an amp? I'm thinking of putting the amp in the trunk since it's pretty big. I'm also replacing all the speakers and BOSE radio. Where is the best write-up for removing all 6 speakers (2 tweeters) and the head unit? Also I usually like to run the rcas separate from the amp power cable to minimize distortion, do you guys have a good place to route the rcas? And finally I'll be running a satellite antenna. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe through sunroof.
#114
There is a nice big rubber grommet behind the driver's fender where you can pass the power cable through into the cabin. You just remove the plastic splash guard above the driver's front wheel and you'll see it.
Run the amp cord along the driver's side of the car, under the carpet. There is white plastic cover for the stock cords on my '99 but you may not have it on your '95. I ran my cords through the plastic cover but you can also just tuck them under the carpet at the edge of the floorpan. There are plenty of holes to route the cable behind the rear seats and into the trunk. Once you see it it will be easy.
Run RCAs on the passenger side of the car, along the sill or rocker or floorpan just like the driver's side.
You have to remove the rear seats and deck to get at the rear speakers and the interior door trim for the front speakers. It's pretty straightforward but look for a write-up in the How-Tos thread.
Run the amp cord along the driver's side of the car, under the carpet. There is white plastic cover for the stock cords on my '99 but you may not have it on your '95. I ran my cords through the plastic cover but you can also just tuck them under the carpet at the edge of the floorpan. There are plenty of holes to route the cable behind the rear seats and into the trunk. Once you see it it will be easy.
Run RCAs on the passenger side of the car, along the sill or rocker or floorpan just like the driver's side.
You have to remove the rear seats and deck to get at the rear speakers and the interior door trim for the front speakers. It's pretty straightforward but look for a write-up in the How-Tos thread.
#115
Another question, if I get the Factory Integration Adapter like in post 112 and hook it up with my pioneer HU with the stock Bose speakers, can I still hookup subs and an amp to the bose speakers without many problems? Instead of having to buy new speakers and installing them with the stock wiring.
#116
Another question, if I get the Factory Integration Adapter like in post 112 and hook it up with my pioneer HU with the stock Bose speakers, can I still hookup subs and an amp to the bose speakers without many problems? Instead of having to buy new speakers and installing them with the stock wiring.
This has more to do with the pioneer than anything else. Does your pioneer have a sub pre-out? If it does then just run an rca (L/R) from it to your sub amp. You will also need to run a amp lead wire which will turn on the amp when you turn on the radio. Make sure your pioneer has both outputs, sub pre-out and amp lead. You will then run speaker cable from your amp to your sub. and of course hook up power and ground to your amp as per the amps instructions.
#117
For everyone's information :P
I ended up leaving the factory Bose in my car and had my 2 type E's hooked up with a Base **** connected and mounted near the hood latch. They also made a little carpeted amp rack which was put all the way back behind the wheel well bulge since I did not want it screwed into my seats. All together to get everything connected I spent $308 (which seems kind of high, but at least it was done right).
They left all of the factory speakers as is and did not have to bypass the factory amp as BestBuy had told me they would need to. The kid at the shop told me it wouldn’t really be worth putting in an aftermarket HU unless i was going to go all out and buy all new door speakers and everything. He said the cost of the installation, and all of the adapters needed to keep the steering wheel controls/8 speaker setup, would have been too pricy.
Another note, the only thing that rattles on an 07 SL is the license plate which I found very relieving. I hate cars that rattle!
Thanks for everyone's input!
I ended up leaving the factory Bose in my car and had my 2 type E's hooked up with a Base **** connected and mounted near the hood latch. They also made a little carpeted amp rack which was put all the way back behind the wheel well bulge since I did not want it screwed into my seats. All together to get everything connected I spent $308 (which seems kind of high, but at least it was done right).
They left all of the factory speakers as is and did not have to bypass the factory amp as BestBuy had told me they would need to. The kid at the shop told me it wouldn’t really be worth putting in an aftermarket HU unless i was going to go all out and buy all new door speakers and everything. He said the cost of the installation, and all of the adapters needed to keep the steering wheel controls/8 speaker setup, would have been too pricy.
Another note, the only thing that rattles on an 07 SL is the license plate which I found very relieving. I hate cars that rattle!
Thanks for everyone's input!
#118
This has more to do with the pioneer than anything else. Does your pioneer have a sub pre-out? If it does then just run an rca (L/R) from it to your sub amp. You will also need to run a amp lead wire which will turn on the amp when you turn on the radio. Make sure your pioneer has both outputs, sub pre-out and amp lead. You will then run speaker cable from your amp to your sub. and of course hook up power and ground to your amp as per the amps instructions.
#119
wuzzy you can buy the compononents later but like I mentioned before buy the cables you will use now and install them. You will need the rca's and amp lead wire.
#120