sputhurk

Sure. Thanks for all your suggestions.

sputhurk

Hi There,

I'm planning to put the USB Hub on the center console (under the arm rest) this weekend. I couldn't find any instructions to remove the console for the 4th generation maxima. Could you pls give me some directions how to remove the console? If you have any URL for the directions that will be fine too.


Thanks,

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You have to remove the ashtray assembly to reveal the screws holding the top/front of the console. Then slide the seats all the way forward to reveal the screws on the sides of the console. That's really it. I think approx 4-6 screws.

sputhurk

Thanks for your quick reply.

Have a great weekend.

sputhurk

Hello Again,

I do have a question on the Amp power on cable. Currently I'm connecting the Red wire (12V) directly to the Blue/White cable (Amp Power on Signal cable). Since I'm using a DC-DC 12V-5V Buck converter, I'm wondering if I can connect 5V output from the converter to the Blue/White cable.
My understanding is the blue/white (Amp power on signal) cable is NOT the main power source for the Amp and it just provides a signal to the Amp. So, pls let me know if I can use the 5V from the buck converter to the Blue/white cable of the harness instead of 12V power.

Thanks

sputhurk

Could you pls advise me on this?

Thanks again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Need a bit more clarity here. Which red wire?

You are correct in that the blue/white is a signal cable, not the primary power cable. I am unsure if 5v will provide a strong enough signal. Only one way to find out.

But more importantly, why do you want to use the converter?

sputhurk

Thanks for the reply.

For the tablet and USB hub, I need 5V power. That's the reason I'm using 5V Buck converter. So I was wondering if I could use the same line to power on the Amp.

maxwannabenow

iTrader: (3)

So I have an 03 with Bose and wanted to replace the HU with something I could plug a thumb drive into and with bluetooth.

I bought Kenwood head unit and the harness that connects to the preouts which from this thread and my own experience would be the best. The head unit had a 2.5V preout. After it was installed, the volume was a little lacking especially on songs that were not that loud anyway.

So after reading more in this thread, I decided to exchange for a HU with a 4V preout to try and get more volume. This did make some difference but not much really and the volume is still pretty low on many songs. I talked to the guy at the installation shop who seemed very knowledgeable (he told me before the exchange that the 4V preouts wouldn't make that much difference) that said if volume was an issue that I should go to the harness that doesn't use the preouts and it would be much louder.

I do want more loudness but I do want to keep the signal clean and don't like distorted clipped music and definitely don't want to blow my speakers or anything.

Anybody had this issue and did you go back from the preamp out harness to the high power outputs to the Bose amp? It is a high power deck btw like 22 rms per channel.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You are referring to using the Metra 70-7550 (or generic equivalent)?

If so, this is fine. You won't have an issue with distortion.

LunchBx

I was given a 95 Maxima GLE. Tape player and CD player no longer worked right in the Bose unit, but all 4 speakers worked great. I replaced it with a older Pioneer SuperTuner3 (45w x 4) I had in the garage, I made sure it worked with a small speaker box from my truck. Didn't know there were 2 different wiring harnesses to choose from. I bought the normal one ( Metra Part 70-7550 ). After I finished the installation the stereo worked, ( or so we thought ). One day the wife was fiddling and noticed there was no sound from the rear speaker. Yeah the front ones were so loud couldn't tell. We haven't been able to find a real straight answer answer (after months of goggle searches) other than there're amps on the speakers and they wouldn't work with a preamped head-unit, other than modifying the output on the replacement unit. I am going to try wiring my speakers to the RCA plugs on the unit to see if that solves my problem finally. I had thought of doing so previously when I found out about aftermarket units putting out to high of a signal for the amps, but was confounded by the front speakers working and not the rear. I really hope this solves it. Thanks for The great thread! I'm so glad I joined. First stereo in 20+ yrs to drive me this crazy.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Doesn't sound right. I would flip the front outputs to the rear to see if its the radio or the amps. Do you have a tone generator or a multimeter? That will help to see if the speakers are still functional.

Also you did not mention if you have Bose or not. That makes a difference.

johnnyc9009

just wondering I found a 99 i30 part number cn518 I was wondering if I could do a plug and play or will this stereo work at all with my 96? any suggestions on easiest way to do a aftermarket cd player install would be great too. I know you have to have some adapter for the bose amplified speakers. not sure where to get one. any help is much appreciated.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Should work, but I recommend going aftermarket anyway - just in case it does not.

Read this thread in its entirety. It will give you the information you need on the adapters required. They can be purchased anywhere - Crutchfield, eBay, even some Walmarts.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know what the black connectors are for on this 01 bose unit? My guess, it's for the cd changer. Sorry about the huge pic

Also, if anyone has the pigtail harness to the white connector near the antenna, please let me know. Mine has been hacked up by the PO...

1992maximase30

The black connector are for power and audio signal. The one by the antenna is for the cd changer. And the other white one is for the in car phone.

1992maximase30

Johnnyc9009 the 99 headunit will work with your 96. I'm actually looking for a 97/98 unit since the radio quality is a lot better than the 99.

Also has anyone noticed that the 00/01 bose audio seems like it has like a concert sound effect to it??

a33_ridah

iTrader: (10)

I do have another thread open but perhaps someone here can help.
Is there a metra speakers adapter harness to use aftermarket speakers in a non bose Maxima 02?
Iv bought 2 sets now; both wrong.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Hey man,

They're all too thin. Get a set of 3/4" MDF rings from eBay with the mounting "wings" - search under Infiniti MDF ring. Most of the sellers will make a custom sized inner diameter for ya.

Miskatonic

I installed this after market HU in my 2000 Maxima (w/premium Bose) about two years ago. I did it because I wanted to be able to hook up my iPod. It's been working great!

But now I would like to add more bass to the system. I own a box with three 10" MTX subs and an amp bolted on the back. I pulled a power wire through my car to the trunk and grounding the amp. I tried to replace the Bose amp turn on wire with my new amp turn on wire in hopes that I could just bypass the Bose amp/subwoofer. I've since learned from this forum that each speaker in the car has it's own amp, so I'm sure that unhooking that wire turned them all off leading to silence. Now, I'm thinking I could completely disconnect the Bose bass amp, find the striped blue turn on wire in that wire cluster, and re direct it to the new amp. Would that work?

But, now I'm unsure how I would feed the sound signal to the amp. If I isolated the turn on circuit (like I've just described) could I expect to run the RCA from the jacks on the back of the HU?

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

I'm Hooking up an Alpine swr-8d4 4ohm sub-woofer with Alpine MRP-M350 to my original bose sound system. I have to add Hi/low adapter IIRC. ill add pics once install is done.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

A lot of incorrect information here.

You have a 2000 Maxima. You do NOT have an individual amp per speaker. You have one amp for all 4 speakers in your trunk. I would not touch this, because you do not want to disconnect your interior speakers.

You also have a Bose sub/amp assembly in your trunk. It has a signal as well as a remote turn on wire (which is NOT blue/white). THIS is what you want to disconnect/remove, and leverage the signal and remote turn on wires from. Wiring diagrams are available to identify the correct colors. The wires will be low-level signal. You can splice in some RCA's there, and run them to your amp.

Bobafear

Hey fellas, having some issues with the audio in my '04 max. Rear speakers stopped working, preceded by a whining that got very loud (had to pull over and shut the car off to get it to stop). Front speakers went as well, now i have no audio, although the stereo comes on fine, just with no sound. Without the stereo on, I still hear popping and crackling occasionally coming from the speakers. Originially I thought it may be the amp, but I figured y'all would know best. Sorry if this is the wrong place for this, and thanks for any help!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Need more info. What type of system do you have installed? Sounds aftermarket but you didn't specify.

Assuming it's aftermarket, I'd take a look at your amp wiring.

Bobafear

Thanks for the quick response. Nope all stock Bose.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Hmm. Check fuses. Look for any frayed wiring. Have there been any wiring changes at all recently?

If the above are fine, it does sound like your speaker amp went. This is not common though, so I can't be positive. See if you can get a replacement from junkyard or classifieds and swap it out.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

Is the lc2i an good unit to use in my setup?

Miskatonic

Thanks for this info!

A couple of questions:

1. So, the current woofer amp is located above the trunk on th right: http://tinyurl.com/nhpky79 Is this correct? Where is the other amp located (just curious)?

2. I have RCAs which I was planning on running from the back of the head unit to the new amp. So you're saying I should not do that, rather, I should just put some RCAs on the White and Black wires ( http://tinyurl.com/m8trrvm )?

3. Obviously the G/W wire is the amp on/off.

4. I run the separate power wire already. I imagine the R wire is power. Can I just put a cap on that since I'm planning on using the new wire? I've also run a ground wire from my new amp already. Should I disconnect that and connect the ground wire from the Bose amp?

Thanks for your help!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

1. Bose woofer amp is located ON the woofer itself. It's under the circular black plastic cap. It makes it look like the woofer has a large magnet, but no such luck . The speaker amp is also under the rear deck - exactly where your picture states it is.

2. The right way to do it is using a proper RCA and remote turn on lead from your HU. The easy/short way is to tap the signal/remote turn on at the woofer.

3. Yep, but see #2.

4. R is power, correct. No cap, just disconnect the entire harness leading to the subwoofer assembly. Keep a proper ground wire run.

Miskatonic

1. Oh! I just thought it was a big magnet and that the amp on the right was the woofer amp. Thanks for making that distinction! You just saved me a whole lot of swearin'.

2.Well, I've already pulled the RCA wire, so I've done the hard part. Can I just plug them in on both ends (HU and amp)? If I do that, won't I need to disconnect some of the harness wires at the head unit? Or, can I just leave those wired and leave 'em flappin in the trunk?

4. It sounds like the only wire I'll need to use use from the disconnected woofer
harness would be the G/W (even though, I've already pulled the on/off wire through the car, I can't find an obvious place to splice it into the HU harness). Is that right? I'd rather run it from the HU harness because I'd rather not tear apart the harness at the stock Bose woofer. What do you think? Is there an obvious place I should splice into the HU harness?

Thanks!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, plug the RCA's into the Sub out on your HU, and the signal input on your sub amp. Disconnect the harness going into the sub amp at the trunk.

If you've pulled the remote turn on wire, then you won't need the G/W wire either. Connect the remote turn on at the HU, then directly into your aftermarket amp. It should be clear which one to connect to at the HU. Remote turn on in aftermarket radios is always a blue wire with a white trace.

Miskatonic

The problem with that is that the amp turn on wire is already wired to an amp (or amps). I'm assuming the single wire activates both Bose amps. If I disconnect it, won't that keep the amp for the four speakers from turning on?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

No. It's split somewhere before the harness going into the sub amp. Disconnect the harness at the sub amp and the internal speaker amp will still function.

androenthusiast

Thanks to all the great information on this thread, I was able to rip out the (premium) Bose unit on my Maxima 2000 SE and replace it with a Pioneer 4100NEX (which is both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay capable). No hisses/pops, FM reception or other issues. Everything pretty much worked the first time around except I ignored the parking brake connection only to realize that a lot of the radio functionality (including Android connection, firmware upgrade, etc.) was disabled. So, I ended up having to rip the unit out to ground the parking brake wire.

Now I have the ability to play DVDs, CDs, HD Radio (which is only a bit better than standard FM), MP3/FLAC files (through USB/SD card) and Android-based navigation - all accessible via a touch screen. What's not to like, you say?

To my utter disappointment, my audio has gone from being heavenly to just plain mediocre. The music sounds a lot more "noisy" and fatigues my ears out. I get tonnes of distortion past the 70% volume level (with the Bose I could go to a 100% volume which, while uncomfortably loud, was distortion free and pleasing). The subwoofer output seems to have noticeable degraded too. I have tried playing with the equalizer on my unit but to no avail.

The Pioneer has 4V pre-amp outputs but I am wondering if I should try to use a LOC to increase the levels. Is that advisable? Has anyone tried that?

I have very sensitive ears and consider myself an audiophile so this is causing me great misery. Hoping to get some advise.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

If one wiring method didn't work (using a 70-7551), then yes, try the alternative wiring method - the LOC.

androenthusiast

Wow, thanks for the super quick reply djfrestyl!

Do you mean switch to the Metra 70-7550 + LOC hookup? Sure, I can try that.

But I was wondering if increasing the (4v) pre-amp output using an LOC feasible/worth considering.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It's not clear how you're currently hooked up, so I can't advise what to switch to.

androenthusiast

I am currently using the Metra 70-7551 harness (that taps into the preamp outputs). There is no LOC.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Sounds like the 4v going into the 70-7550 isn't strong enough.

Switch to the speaker wire outputs, into the LOC, then out to the Bose system. Depending on which LOC you use (and it's outputs), you'll either need the 70-7551 or the 70-7550.

androenthusiast

Ordered the PAC ROEM-NIS2 yesterday given the recommendations earlier in this thread and the stellar reviews. I will post back after the weekend.

My current setup is starting to sound better. I wonder if there is a burn-in phenomenon at play here. Anyhow, now that I have the ability to test both setups, I will be able to make a more informed call on whether pre-amp outputs are better than speaker outputs with a Line Output Controller.

BTW, I also realized that one can buy a Line Driver which connects to the pre-amp outputs and increases the voltage (from 4v, for example, to say 6v/8v). If all else fails, I might test this route as well.