12" vs 15" FI Q
06-24-2008, 07:59 PM
#1
12" vs 15" FI Q
What do you guys suggest?
I have had an Atlas 15 for about 3-4 years now. I think its time to move on. Right now its sitting inside a Ported box, ported to 35 hz. I listen to rap, and I am tempted to try a sealed box ~1.0cu for the 12 or 2.1cu for the 15... If I don't like the sealed box, I will go ported 2.2 cubes at like 30hz
What do you guys think I should do? There is a 20 dollar difference between the 2.
EDIT: The whole reason why I want to upgrade is because the box that I have is huge, and I have no trunk space what so ever. I figured instead of trying to make a new one, just get everything new.
Any one know how much the 12 and 15 weigh?
I have had an Atlas 15 for about 3-4 years now. I think its time to move on. Right now its sitting inside a Ported box, ported to 35 hz. I listen to rap, and I am tempted to try a sealed box ~1.0cu for the 12 or 2.1cu for the 15... If I don't like the sealed box, I will go ported 2.2 cubes at like 30hz
What do you guys think I should do? There is a 20 dollar difference between the 2.
EDIT: The whole reason why I want to upgrade is because the box that I have is huge, and I have no trunk space what so ever. I figured instead of trying to make a new one, just get everything new.
Any one know how much the 12 and 15 weigh?
06-24-2008, 08:44 PM
#4
Ok. Well if that isn't an option and you want to retain your output as well as have the power to push a Q, get the 15". I would personally like to see a little more internal cf though. If you are limited to that internal volume, go with the 12". You wouldn't be giving the 15" enough room to operate.
06-25-2008, 04:02 AM
#6
Ok. Well if that isn't an option and you want to retain your output as well as have the power to push a Q, get the 15". I would personally like to see a little more internal cf though. If you are limited to that internal volume, go with the 12". You wouldn't be giving the 15" enough room to operate.
06-25-2008, 08:56 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Baytown, Tx
Posts: 986
06-26-2008, 07:38 PM
#13
As stupid as this sounds, does anyone have a plan for a 3cf box? I need it to fit into a 4th gen, all the way in the back against the rear seats. I will get rid of the torsion bars as well. So height shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Is it bad to mount the amp on the sub box?
Is it bad to mount the amp on the sub box?
06-27-2008, 09:28 AM
#16
There are two schools of thought on the issue of mounting amps to boxes or not. I Have actually never had an amp in my car that wasn't mounted to the box. No issues as of yet. I have only been in the game for 12 years though. 
So what do I know.
So what do I know.
06-27-2008, 09:15 PM
#19
There should be enough there for you to check out. The thread is not 100% up to date though as my camera decided it didn't need to work any more before the last reinstallation.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=36899
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=36899
06-27-2008, 09:29 PM
#20
The "never mount amps on a sub box" crew say that the added vibration from the vibration created on the wall of a subwoofer enclosure will damage the amplifier.
In a poorly constructed box made with sub par materials, I could see how this is an issue. Additionally, it could be an issue with enough drivers to force even a solid enclosure to flex. Few people have the power driver combination to validate this though. I can definitely see the merit and justification in these cases. In these cases I would recommend an amp rack that removes the chance of this happening.
I personally think that an amp securely mounted to the frame of a car has the potential for more violent sudden movement. If you consider a simple pot hole, for example, hit at even a low speed of 45 mph can send several times the amount of force through the chassis of an amp causing more damage that some low level of box flex. Honestly, if your box is flexing to that degree, some redesign is in order.
06-30-2008, 11:29 AM
#22
