w8lifter21

This is somewhat of a crash course of how I installed my Avital 4103 into my '97 I30. This should give you a pretty decent idea of where to look/where to connect wires to. This car is very easy considering alot of the outputs of the remote start are (-) and wires in the car are (-) trigger as well!

**This is only a guide, please verify all wires with a multimeter before making your conntections**
Tools/parts needed:
Multimeter (Can be found as cheap as $5 at Harbor Freight)
Wire stripers
Soldering Iron
Solder
Tape
Zip ties
Knife or Blade
Phillips
10mm nut driver or ratchet and socket
1 SPDT relay (Single pole double throw) also known as a standard or common Bosch relay

Vehicle wire tech sheet(See below)




Let me preface that by the time I am ready to take the car apart, I have already gone over the wires the remote start and removed, taped, soldered and connected all the wires that I will need to install this remote start. The fewer wires you need to connect in the car, the better. If anyone has questions on what wires to use/not to use, or an easy way to "pre wire" a remote start before installing it in a car, post up or you can always PM/email me. It is much easier to keep track of the wires that need to be connected without having extra wires of assorted colors dangling in your face and constantly having to refer to the manual because you're thinking, "Do I need this wire". Just a small time saving trick I learned maaaany years ago lol.

-First start by taking the under dash off that is below the steering column. Should be two phillips screws at the bottom to remore, and then pull at the top of the panel which is secured by 2 metal clips

-Now there is a metal plate to be removed. Use the 10mm socket/ratchet to remove these two bolts. There are provisions to use a phillips screwdriver, but you will need a mean kung fu grip and Hulk like biceps to turn these bolts with a screwdriver.

You car should now look like this:


Next, mount the remote start. I mounted mine to a few looms of wire close to where the clutch would be or connect to the firewall. Use zip ties to make sure it's secure.

w8lifter21

Now it's time to make your main power wire connections. Look for the ignition wires which should come to a white plug that is connected to the steering column. The wires that come from the ignition cylinder will change color on the other side of the plug. Once you have located this plug, use your multimeter to verify that the wire matches the description on the tech sheet. Here is how to test each wire.

12v constant:
Your meter will register 12 volts while the key is in any position, including cranking the car to start

Accessory (ACC):
Your meter will register 12 volts while the key is in the ACC position, Ignition (IGN) position, but will LOSE power during vehicle cranking, then regain power after the car is running

Ignition (IGN):
Your meter will register 12 volts while the key is in the IGN position, during vehicle cranking, and after the car is running.

Starter:
Your meter will register 12 volts while the key is in the start position only, then drop power after the car is started.

This is a good time to address wire triggers when testing the other wires. When you see that something is positive (+) trigger, that means when you put your meter on the wire, it will register 0 volts at rest, and 12 volts when you activate the circuit by either hitting the lock wire, turning the lights on, or whatever it is you are testing. Negative trigger is just the opposite; your meter will register 12 volts at rest, and then drop to 0v when the circuit is activated.

Here is what my ignition harness looked like after I made all my connections:



This is where my phone died and my camera is out of batteries so I will continue picture less .

Next I proceeded to connect the parking light (white on remote start, red/green in car at the switch), brake shutdown (brown on remote start, red/green at the brake switch), and trunk pop wires.

w8lifter21

For trunk pop you will need a relay to activate the trunk release as the negative output from the remote start is not strong enough to activate the release solenoid. Here is a pic of the pin outs for the relay.

Connect the pin outs on the relay as follows:
86- AUX/trunk release output from the remote start.
85- 12volt constant
87- Ground
30- Purple/Yellow trunk release wire in the car

Now, the tech sheet says to go to the BCM (Body Control Module) which is behind the radio. I chose to go the easy route and ran the wire from pin 30 on the relay to the trunk release button on the door seeing as how the lock/unlock wires from the remote start have to be ran into the door to the switch anyway.

Next up, door locks. You need to catch the door lock wires inside the driver’s door. I’m sure there is a write up on how to take the door panel off, but if not, it’s pretty simple.
-Remove the plastic cup that surrounds the lever to open the door on the inside
-Remove the screw under the plastic cover inside the hand cup you grab to close the door, and remove the cup.
-Remove 2 screws from the bottom of the door.
- Gently pull back on the door panel from the bottom up to release the plastic door clips, then lift up and is should come right off.

Running the wires into the door wasn’t that hard at all. I just cut a little slit in the rubber boot in the door jam going into the car and shoved an old opened up wire coat hanger through. Taped up the end and pulled it back through.(Don’t forget to tape up the trunk release wire with the door lock wires!!) I did the same with the rubber boot that met with the door side. Peel the plastic moisture liner back and just grab the wires!

Last, the tachometer signal wire.(If your remote start is so equipped) Run the tach wire into the engine compartment. Take a peek at where the fuel injectors are. Peel back the tape on TWO fuel injectors. One wire will be the same on both, and one will be different. You want to connect the wire to the UNCOMMON colored wire.


This is a crude and basic intro to remote start installation, where most people seem to have the most trouble. I believe this short guide and your installation manual should help you to a successful install. As I have time, I will update this thread with pictures, but by all means, if anyone has any questions or is having trouble with their remote start, by all means post up or shoot me a PM/email, I will be more than happy to try and help. I am an authorized Directed dealer and do these for a living

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Excellent write up there and applaud you for taking the time.

For future though ...

- this obviously includes alarms and hybrids -

Several wires can be grabbed in the driver kick:

Door trigger
Brake wire
Trunk release
Parking lights
Trunk trigger

Tach can be found at the BCM, accessed via the passenger side floor. However tach should not be needed with a 4103 or the majority of newer system. Virtual Tach works perfectly fine.

I am also an Authorized Dealer and do this for a living since 1990.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

virtual tach ftw. wish it was around years ago.

did you hook up second starter? many nissans (especially newer ones) will have issues if you don't..

For older cars (like yours), jumping the wire to starter 1 works fine.. but again, newer Nissans you must use a relay.