Clay bar vs. Rubbing Compound - Maxima Forums



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Clay bar vs. Rubbing Compound

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Old 10-16-2008, 12:23 PM   #1
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Clay bar vs. Rubbing Compound

Hey guys,

Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?

Thanks!!
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Old 10-16-2008, 03:16 PM   #2
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Hey guys,

Washed & waxed my Max over the weekend. I noticed there are still some dead bugs in front, imperfections and small stains in the paint. I remember a while back on a different car, I used some rubbing compound and it took everything out. Is rubbing compound better or worse for the paint over the Meguires Clay Bar?

Thanks!!
Clay bar is MUCH safer for paint. Rubbing compound is a pretty harsh compound for abrasions on the paint (ie- paint from another car or pole, etc.) If you're just looking for something to take off minor things, try some paste type polishing compound. What I would do is Wash, Clay, Polishing compound on area's that need it, wax.
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:36 PM   #3
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^+1 mothers clay bar works like magic! but you really have to take your time.
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Old 10-19-2008, 05:37 PM   #4
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I just clayed my 07 today,man what a difference!!

Just make sure you use plenty of lubricant,I use detail spray.Its amazing the junk that builds up on the paint.
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:14 PM   #5
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Thanks guys!
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:38 PM   #6
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Clay bars and rubbing compounds have some overlap in their respective application like removing dead bugs, tar, etc. However, a clay bar is far superior for removing bonded contaminants (if you run your hand across the paint and it has a gritty feel, you have bonded contaminants) and paint overspray. Compounds are typically more used to level your paint to remove swirls, scratches, etc.
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:28 AM   #7
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Scottwax is right. A clay bar will remove the contaminants that are on top of your paint, chrome or windows etc. However, a compound will work to remove a micro layer of paint to remove any scratches, swirl marks, etc. We always clay before we compound, polish and wax. Otherwise you are running the contaminants back over the surface. Those contaminants if left untreated will, over time, dull your paint and speed up the corrosion process. 2 different products and uses, but both need to be done, but done properly. Remember, using the proper techniques are just as important as what products you use. Check out our full line of products at www.QuikShineGarage.com.

Thanks
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Old 11-15-2008, 01:28 PM   #8
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Clay bar is MUCH easier.

-302X
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:49 PM   #9
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^+1 mothers clay bar works like magic! but you really have to take your time.

Couldn't have said it better myself!
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:14 AM   #10
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all clay bars are the same
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:39 AM   #11
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all clay bars are the same
That's an impossibility!!! There are variations, regardless of severity, to everything in existence.
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:14 PM   #12
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Clay bar > rubbing compound anyday.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:54 PM   #13
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Clay bar > rubbing compound anyday.

You can't compare clay bar to rubbing compound, they serve two completely different purposes. Chances are you need one or the other depending on the quality of your paint. If your paint is oxidized enough to require rubbing compound, you are way past the needs for a clay bar. If your paint is well-maintained and glossy, a clay bar is needed to remove surface contaminents before you polish, glaze, and seal it all in with a good wax. Just my 2 pennies!
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:18 PM   #14
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How much distance will you get out of one clay bar before it's too dirty to continue using? In my case, the car is only a few months old and relatively clean.
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:54 AM   #15
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How much distance will you get out of one clay bar before it's too dirty to continue using? In my case, the car is only a few months old and relatively clean.
In that case, a third of a bar should take care of it. The horizontal surfaces are usually much worse than vertical panels - which should have almost nothing on them if your car is that new. Use plenty of lube!
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:11 AM   #16
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In that case, a third of a bar should take care of it. The horizontal surfaces are usually much worse than vertical panels - which should have almost nothing on them if your car is that new. Use plenty of lube!
Thank you!
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:13 PM   #17
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has anyone found a way to make your own home made clay bar and lube?
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:16 PM   #18
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has anyone found a way to make your own home made clay bar and lube?
Good paint is pretty pricey.

How much is a clay bar kit, $20-30?
How much do you want to save, vs. the cost of a decent paint job?
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:38 PM   #19
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has anyone found a way to make your own home made clay bar and lube?
dude a Meguiars claybar kit is like $20
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:40 PM   #20
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I found an old Mother's clay bar kit in my garage. I started working on little spots to entire panels on the Maxima because it had a gritty feel to the paint, windows, and trim. All i can say is wow what at difference. Unfortunately I used paper towels (Bounty). Is that ok? Ill probably buy a bunch of terry cloth towels.

What brand of detailing products do most people use? What is a good wash?

What is a good brand wax and do you use a power tool to polish or do you use good ol elbow grease?

Also, what kinds of tools are available to remove dust etc? After a few days of driving I always notice a layer of dust.

Finally, for touch up paint, what is the best way to apply it flush to the paint? I always end up with gobs that look very obvious. Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2012, 04:55 PM   #21
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Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...

You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.

As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.

Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.

To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.

Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.

Last edited by T_Behr904; 02-04-2012 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:34 PM   #22
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Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...

You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.

As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.

Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.

To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.

Btw, don't use that old fashoned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
I did a google search and the link brought me to maxima.org where I am logged in so I piggy backed off this old thread instead if starting a new one.

Thank you for the detailed response. The orbital waxer will definitely save me some time.
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:43 PM   #23
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I did a google search and the link brought me to maxima.org where I am logged in so I piggy backed off this old thread instead if starting a new one.

Thank you for the detailed response. The orbital waxer will definitely save me some time.
No problem.

I also have done Google searches on Maxima related stuff, and the links took me here to the Org. I bumped an old thread or two and pissed a few people off, but I try not to do that, depending on the thread topic.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:44 PM   #24
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Bumping an old thread with a bunch of questions...

You could use terry cloth towels, but I use microfiber towels for almost everything, from the paint to dusting the interior and cleaning the windows on the inside. I use different towels for different uses to prevent cross-contamination.

As far as brands go, i've had good luck with Meguiar's. I used to detail high end cars such as Porsche's, Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari's, Bentley's, etc., and never had any problems with any products not working as advertised.

Before you wax, you want to claybar first. That lifts and removes all the grit and impurities that can get into the pores of the paint. So, when you wax after that, the wax fills in and gets into those pores that were previously blocked, resulting in a much smoother surface to the touch and much better wax protection. You will also notice much better water beading as well.

To make quick work of it, you can use an inexpensive orbital waxer. A foam pad with velcro will stick onto it. This makes waxing a car much faster and you can overlap your passes on each section. It also spreads the wax much more evenly as well.

Btw, don't use that old fashioned rubbing compound. That stuff has been around since cars were painted with enamel paint. I've used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with great success. If you still have a good shine, then a cleaner wax or the Nxt Gen wax works great.
+1 for a lot of good info. I use clay bar on all my cars. I will usually do a wash, clay, wash, wax just to make sure. I know it seems a little redundant, but I've got too much time and money in to some of them to risk scratches. haha.

As for the terry cloth I wouldn't. That cloth has a harsh texture and gets worse as you use it. you'll run high risk of causing fine scratches. As the quoted poster said I use micro fiber. I've got TONS of em. Different colors for different products or surfaces as stated to keep from cross contaminating.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:38 AM   #25
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Most of my towels are microfiber. Even my drying towels.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:36 AM   #26
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Most of my towels are microfiber. Even my drying towels.
ALL of my towels are microfiber, terry scratches the crap out of the clear. i even use microfiber on my wheels to wipe them down.
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