What is the best way to dry your car after wash?
11-09-2008, 07:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: A T L
Posts: 264
What is the best way to dry your car after wash?
After washing my car I would dry it off with 2 clean cotton towels, until I started noticing light scratches on my car I stopped. I'm now blow drying it with a leaf blower and for the water that is left I use a cotton towel and instead of wiping in circles or side to side to dry the leftover spots I just fold the towel up and dab the spot. Are there any other better methods? I heard using microfiber towels are great but wouldn't that cuase the same light scratching?
Also what is the best way to get water out of the side mirrors, I blow dry the heck out of it yet there always still seems to be water running on my car from the side mirrors when im driving.
Thanks in advance.
Also what is the best way to get water out of the side mirrors, I blow dry the heck out of it yet there always still seems to be water running on my car from the side mirrors when im driving.
Thanks in advance.
11-10-2008, 07:00 AM
#5
is the towel 100% cotton? this is not a bath towel right?
microfiber is the new technology and it shouldn't scratch.
also the asorber is nice product.
i use a compress air gun to get the water out of the nooks and crannies (mirrors and etc) not sure if the leaf blower have enough concentrated air pressure.
also what soap and mitt are you using? are you using the two bucket method? the light scratches might be from washing also so check out what you're doing there.
microfiber is the new technology and it shouldn't scratch.
also the asorber is nice product.
i use a compress air gun to get the water out of the nooks and crannies (mirrors and etc) not sure if the leaf blower have enough concentrated air pressure.
also what soap and mitt are you using? are you using the two bucket method? the light scratches might be from washing also so check out what you're doing there.
11-10-2008, 09:12 AM
#8
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Location: NC
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Along with selling our own line of Premium Car Care Products, we have a full detail shop. We have found that the best way to dry a vehicle is to use our Microfiber Drying Towel. 1 towel will do your entire car. After you have wioed it dry, use an air hose or a leaf blower to get all of the places water likes to hide (lights,handles,etc.). When you have blown all of the water out of these areas then wipe off the excess with your Drying Towel. SHould do the trick, it works for us every day. (Post edited)
Thanks
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Thanks
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Last edited by DanNY; 01-07-2009 at 08:34 AM.
11-15-2008, 05:03 PM
#11
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Location: Binghamton, NY
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i always use Super Absorber. they are $10 at walmart and they are amazing... dry entire car in 10 minutes. you can get under your rear spoiler and mirrors. i dont know how ppl dry their cars with towels. california blade is alright but it misses a lot of spots and is only meant for flat surfaces. absorber gets dirty and u just throw it in the washer... couldnt detail without it.
12-04-2008, 01:05 AM
#16
I just use Mr. Clean Auto Dry to wash and dry my cars especially my new black truck. Just wash, rinse and rinse again with the treated water rinse and voila, watch the water sheet off.
Otherwise strongly recommned The Absorber, it soaks it all up. Then if you have access use compressed air to blow the mirrors and corners out and dry residual again.
Otherwise strongly recommned The Absorber, it soaks it all up. Then if you have access use compressed air to blow the mirrors and corners out and dry residual again.
12-04-2008, 10:16 AM
#18
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Location: A T L
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well I switched up to optimum no rinse and I'm going to try it out this weekend, not only have I heard good things but it will help with the drying and water in the creases and jambs and mirros since it's a no rinse type of wash. Ill let you guys know how that goes.
12-04-2008, 03:46 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: West Mobile, AL.
Posts: 63
I use a well-maintained Absorber which works incredibly on a waxed Max. After I get what I can with the Absorber, I then proceed to I-10 where I practice my 60-110mph times. Immediately pull over and dry off the remaining drops. Repeat step 2 as often as needed.
12-18-2008, 01:55 PM
#22
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 26
I usually get most of the water off with a microfiber chamois, then dry it off with with a microfiber cloth and some QuickWax from Meguiar's every now and then. Works like a charm.
Perhaps a bit unconventional, but works equally like a charm, is buying one of those small bottles of Mr. Clean spotless quickdry or whatever car wash and mixing about a tablespoon up with your favorite car wash (I use Meguiars' Deep Crystal, personally). Honestly, the car is practically dry by the time you get the chamois out so all you have to do is pat it dry with the chamois and then buff it up with the microfiber and a bit of QuickWax.
My two cents, for what they're worth.
Perhaps a bit unconventional, but works equally like a charm, is buying one of those small bottles of Mr. Clean spotless quickdry or whatever car wash and mixing about a tablespoon up with your favorite car wash (I use Meguiars' Deep Crystal, personally). Honestly, the car is practically dry by the time you get the chamois out so all you have to do is pat it dry with the chamois and then buff it up with the microfiber and a bit of QuickWax.
My two cents, for what they're worth.
12-29-2008, 07:24 AM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 84
Go for a polish to get out the light scratches and then a liquid carnuba for the deep wet look. Also depends if you are doing by hand or with a machine and which products you use.
12-31-2008, 12:49 AM
#26
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01-15-2009, 09:28 PM
#30
Microfiber, microfiber, microfiber. Nothing else should touch your paint. Ever. No Absorbers, no water blades, no chamois. Any dirt left on the paint at all, and any of those three WILL scratch your paint.
Last edited by Scottwax; 01-15-2009 at 09:30 PM.
07-16-2013, 10:09 AM
#31
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1
After reading through this thread I wanted to comment on many of the products mentioned. I have a lot of experience using most of them and can hopefully share some insight for those interested.
First the Car Wash
Much of the swirl marks and scratches produced during a routine car wash are attributed to the wash medium rather than what is used to dry the car. Remember, the car is dirty and most vulnerable to marring during the wash. Of all the popular mitts and sponges I have tested (lamb’s wool, microfiber, boars hair, chenille, etc…) the safest and most cost effective car wash product I found to be a large Natural Sea Wool Sponge.
Ideal Qualities of a Car Dying Product
After the vehicle has been washed, the ideal drying medium should be soft, absorbent, have a lot of nap (fibers of the material that pull remaining dirt left from the wash into the fibers and away from the paint as the car is dried), and release dirt easily so it does not become abrasive over time.
Here is a good article explaining this in further detail. http://banksevan79.hubpages.com/hub/...Cloth-or-Towel
Product Reviews:
Absorber
The Absorbers do not have any nap, they are completely smooth, therefore any particulate caught between the vehicle surface and the Absorber can easily scratch or mar the finish. I continue to use mine on the boat instead of my cars.
California Water Blade
Same issue as the Absorber, anything abrasive leftover from the wash can cause serious damage as the silicone blade is swiped across the vehicle. If using, use the blade on glass ONLY, never on the paint.
Leaf Blower
Make sure the leaf blower has a good air filter or you could essentially sand blast your car. Even if it does have a filter, often surrounding dirt, dust, sand, etc…is easily kicked up onto the car and can become abrasive.
Microfiber (Waffle Weave) Towels
MF towels have become very popular because many of them can dry a midsized vehicle with a single towel. This actually is not a good thing because the weave of the MF that makes it highly absorbent also causes it to hold on and trap dirt which can't easily be released. I began noticing swirl marks after multiple uses with a Cobra Guzzler WW towel and finally realized it was accumulating dirt over time, even after following the instructions and laundering it separately after each use (which was an inconvenience as well). The towel became unreliable and no longer cost effective.
Natural Chamois
The natural leather chamois is the only drying product I have ever gotten consistent swirl free/mar free results, and both of my vehicles are black. They are soft, absorbent, naturally have nap, and unlike the synthetic chamois, dirt picked up off the car when drying with a natural leather chamois can be rinsed free. With proper maintenance they last for years and there is no need to launder them after each use, simply rinse thoroughly, wring out and hang to dry away from direct sunlight. I also cut small sections of them to keep inside the car to use on the rear view mirror, windshield, wood grain, and touch screens.
Below is a well written article explaining in detail why the natural chamois is still the best. http://ezinearticles.com/?Why-a-Natu...oth&id=7793292
First the Car Wash
Much of the swirl marks and scratches produced during a routine car wash are attributed to the wash medium rather than what is used to dry the car. Remember, the car is dirty and most vulnerable to marring during the wash. Of all the popular mitts and sponges I have tested (lamb’s wool, microfiber, boars hair, chenille, etc…) the safest and most cost effective car wash product I found to be a large Natural Sea Wool Sponge.
Ideal Qualities of a Car Dying Product
After the vehicle has been washed, the ideal drying medium should be soft, absorbent, have a lot of nap (fibers of the material that pull remaining dirt left from the wash into the fibers and away from the paint as the car is dried), and release dirt easily so it does not become abrasive over time.
Here is a good article explaining this in further detail. http://banksevan79.hubpages.com/hub/...Cloth-or-Towel
Product Reviews:
Absorber
The Absorbers do not have any nap, they are completely smooth, therefore any particulate caught between the vehicle surface and the Absorber can easily scratch or mar the finish. I continue to use mine on the boat instead of my cars.
California Water Blade
Same issue as the Absorber, anything abrasive leftover from the wash can cause serious damage as the silicone blade is swiped across the vehicle. If using, use the blade on glass ONLY, never on the paint.
Leaf Blower
Make sure the leaf blower has a good air filter or you could essentially sand blast your car. Even if it does have a filter, often surrounding dirt, dust, sand, etc…is easily kicked up onto the car and can become abrasive.
Microfiber (Waffle Weave) Towels
MF towels have become very popular because many of them can dry a midsized vehicle with a single towel. This actually is not a good thing because the weave of the MF that makes it highly absorbent also causes it to hold on and trap dirt which can't easily be released. I began noticing swirl marks after multiple uses with a Cobra Guzzler WW towel and finally realized it was accumulating dirt over time, even after following the instructions and laundering it separately after each use (which was an inconvenience as well). The towel became unreliable and no longer cost effective.
Natural Chamois
The natural leather chamois is the only drying product I have ever gotten consistent swirl free/mar free results, and both of my vehicles are black. They are soft, absorbent, naturally have nap, and unlike the synthetic chamois, dirt picked up off the car when drying with a natural leather chamois can be rinsed free. With proper maintenance they last for years and there is no need to launder them after each use, simply rinse thoroughly, wring out and hang to dry away from direct sunlight. I also cut small sections of them to keep inside the car to use on the rear view mirror, windshield, wood grain, and touch screens.
Below is a well written article explaining in detail why the natural chamois is still the best. http://ezinearticles.com/?Why-a-Natu...oth&id=7793292
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