Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

I'm thinking about buying one because the hard water here has severely affected my Maxima's paintjob. I wax my car and still can't remove the swirls and water streaks that always seem to appear after I dry it. I've known guys who use leaf blowers and I'm not going that route.

Besides, I have 3 cars that I'll be using it on and if it works as good as the advertising shows, it should pay for itself in no time. I'm getting my Old School re-painted in black and I want to preserve the paint as long as I can.

If anyone here has one or knows someone who does, please enlighten me as to how good or bad it really is. Thanks

Daaavid

Is it worth the price for the weekend warrior? To be honest to me, not really. For the same amount, you can purchase a dual action polisher with the correct pads, polishes, compounds, and wax and remove the current water spots on your car and have the paint shine better than when it came out of the factory. This full correction can be done once a year.

Also, wax is not a correction formula. It is formulated to protect the surface of the paint, but does not have any abrasives in it to remove those swirls and waterspots IN the clearcoat. Wax sits above the clear coat, protecting the car from UV and hopefully prevent more waterspots from forming.

I learned this from a professional auto detailer here in Houston, PM if you want to know their name. But anyway, when I wash my car I do it in the shade for this exact reason. Drying your car improperly is another way to induce swirl marks, and this is where most people get swirl marks in their cars. Here is the way I dry my car.

1. Spray down the car one last time.
2. Take the nozzle off of the hose, and turn the pressure down.
3. Start from the top, and let the hose run off the waterbeads.
4. Work your way around the car to make sure most of the waterbeads are being pulled/pooled off of the car.
5. Take an electronic leaf blower and air out the water in between the cracks and work your way from top to bottom to chase out any existing water. Do not use a gas leaf blower as it will leave a gasoline film over your paint.
6. Fold your microfiber drying towel into fours (look online for these; they are specially designed to soak water without leaving streaks).
7. Use a quick wax or quick detailer as you wipe the car down top to bottom.

Constantly check your microfiber towel to see if there is any dirt being picked up. If there is, then turn the microfiber towel to another side and hit that spot with quick wax or detailer again and wipe once over. The reason for folding it over is so you do not contaminate the entire towel in one section of the car.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

My problem is that I'm here in the desert of California and all the water we have except for our drinking water is extremely hard. I have to use either an automated car wash or the coin operated self wash ones.

I park my car in my garage every night because sandstorms are unpredictable and the sun here is so harsh. Thankfully I have less than 40 days left here then I move back to KS.

Having my car here for the past 18 months has ruined my headlights and my windshield, luckily my insurance will replace them for the price of my deductible.

I've seen numerous videos on the Master Blaster but I have not personally talked to a person who actually owns one and can give me his first hand account on their performance, and that's what I'm looking for.

Daaavid

Here is a 11 minute video from a professional detailer giving you the exact answers you need. You've most likely seen it, but this is probably the most genuine of reviews I have read. Autogeek will yield similar results if you search through their detailing forum. Also, as I said, no amount of waxing will remove your swirls and incorrect drying methods will just put more swirls into your paint. Understandably, areas experiencing water shortage or droughts are things to consider in detailing a vehicle. If this is the case, then skip the steps in which you pool down the water and go straight into using the quick detailer and microfiber drying towel. Before buying products that you probably won't need, it is best to know what tools you can work with to save money. There is a reason why professional details cost almost an arm and leg. For the $300 you are spending to buy a specialized shop vac, essentially what it is, you can purchase a full correction system through Autogeek.

SR20Power

iTrader: (1)

^^ he is NOT a professional detailer, there isn't one professional bone in his body.. Trust me. He is a weekend warrior that makes videos. That does not mean he does not know what he is talking about, he does, but on Autogeeks he spend most of his time calling people idiots and pretty much stating how great he is. He does NOT answer your questions and will cruse and be rude.. Ask how I know. Ever since all of that I never watch anything of his and even reported him on Youtube. You question ANYTHING he says get ready for him to say "Fu@k You, your work is $hit Mother fu@cker".

Daaavid

Your call, but I do agree with the points he is making in the video. This is one of the only few videos that I have watched from him, and his opinion on a car cover when my only option was to park my car outside. Now that I have access to a garage, that isn't an issue. However, Larry from AMMONYC and Anson from Vive Detailing here in Houston do most of their drying using compressed air, microfiber towels (waffle weave), quick detailer, and suggest electric leaf blowers if you do not have access to compressed air.

Directed towards the OP, like I said in my original reply, a wax will not fix the issues and his $300 can be spent elsewhere purchasing correction tools than a shopvac. My car has little to no water spotting and swirling on it, and this also includes the cheap black paint + clearcoat Nissan uses on the B-pillars.