How to flush automatic transmission fluid? What ATF to use? How to check the level?
#121
imo, i drain and i fill. MAKE SURE u get a good reading, dont over fill and all that.
so drain, fill. drive for a week or whatever so that it heats up and it cleanses sort of speak, then drain and refill again.
then u shoudl be good. just make sure always u know the reading of the FLUID, dont ever put too much, or TOO little. in between is good..
so drain, fill. drive for a week or whatever so that it heats up and it cleanses sort of speak, then drain and refill again.
then u shoudl be good. just make sure always u know the reading of the FLUID, dont ever put too much, or TOO little. in between is good..
#124
i got a question... I got a 98 with 64k. I just bought it now... i want to keep the tranny fluid clean and stuff. I assume its regular dino fluid right now in my car. Is it ok to mix dino with syn? I dont plan on getting it flushed with the machine since its rather expensive. I feel comfortable doing drain and refills. Should i just keep the using the dino fluid in my case then?
I think mixing syn with dino fluid is pretty bad.
I think mixing syn with dino fluid is pretty bad.
#125
hmm .. i dont' think im knowledgable enough, but look and check for leaks. do a search and see how the trans is feeling. i think mixing won't be THAT bad, but a drain/refill is a good thing imho. i read in manuals and stuff that you really shouldn't mix diff't brands, let alone diff't properties of a certain fluid together..but ive asked many, they said its okay, and u know if u gotta mix for the sake then mix, but i guess its a conscience thing.
i know for certain that the previous owner used the best fluids, amsoil oil ever since, and the ATF is synthetic. which brand I D K, but im going to go w/ mobil 1 atf. its more readily avail; for me. lets jsut assum its regular, but do u know if the previous owner cared. regardless, if he/she has been keeping up w/ changing fluid, and if the trans doesn't leak and in in good shape, by all means go syn.
u just gotta invest for that flush/drain and u should be good to go.
good luck.
i know for certain that the previous owner used the best fluids, amsoil oil ever since, and the ATF is synthetic. which brand I D K, but im going to go w/ mobil 1 atf. its more readily avail; for me. lets jsut assum its regular, but do u know if the previous owner cared. regardless, if he/she has been keeping up w/ changing fluid, and if the trans doesn't leak and in in good shape, by all means go syn.
u just gotta invest for that flush/drain and u should be good to go.
good luck.
#127
The ATF was never replaced on my Maxima and it has 141,000 kms (about 80,000 miles).
I called my local garage who discouraged me from changing the ATF at this point, "especially if it's really black", now he scares me, because he claims that I could be doing more harm than good at this point. He's also the only one in town that performs the T-Tec method.
I would also like to switch to Amsoil ATF.
What do you guys think?
P.S. I added 2 oz of Auto-RX to the transmission to properly clean it. I am planning to drop the pan, and drain/clean...well not me, but this mechanic guy
Thanks
I called my local garage who discouraged me from changing the ATF at this point, "especially if it's really black", now he scares me, because he claims that I could be doing more harm than good at this point. He's also the only one in town that performs the T-Tec method.
I would also like to switch to Amsoil ATF.
What do you guys think?
P.S. I added 2 oz of Auto-RX to the transmission to properly clean it. I am planning to drop the pan, and drain/clean...well not me, but this mechanic guy
Thanks
#128
oh man.. i think u should change fluid. clear, clean is always better than bad imho.. i dk the logic about shocking system or the seals and all that. but if it hasn't then change. does it shift good?
maybe regular atf would be better. but just a suggestion..
maybe regular atf would be better. but just a suggestion..
#132
i still dont have an answer to my question. if i'm running dino oil can i do a drain and refill and put syn oil in the pan. which is like 3-5 quarts and just keep doing that every 6 months. or should i just stick with regular dino oil. i have no problems with my tranny what so ever at 63k. i do plan on doing drain and refills every summer time maybe twice in a year.
#133
turtle.
i don't think it'll hurt. just get some syn in there and do the recommended flush/drain at ur leisure and what not. it is up to you what you wanna use.
i don't see anything wrong w/ regular atf either. ime i've been using aftermarket atf and i've had no probs, no slips. but my maxima whose always been on syn fluids, i'd like to keep it that way.
i don't think it'll hurt. just get some syn in there and do the recommended flush/drain at ur leisure and what not. it is up to you what you wanna use.
i don't see anything wrong w/ regular atf either. ime i've been using aftermarket atf and i've had no probs, no slips. but my maxima whose always been on syn fluids, i'd like to keep it that way.
#134
Turtle,
You should try a product called AUTO-RX...Do a google search on it. It's a cleaning product that gets high marks in all reviews...but don't take my word for it.
You add it to your tramission fluid for a great cleansing..and can be applyed to motor oil as well.
I would recommend this product to cleanse your system first, then add syn.
I hope this helps..
You should try a product called AUTO-RX...Do a google search on it. It's a cleaning product that gets high marks in all reviews...but don't take my word for it.
You add it to your tramission fluid for a great cleansing..and can be applyed to motor oil as well.
I would recommend this product to cleanse your system first, then add syn.
I hope this helps..
#136
Originally Posted by Justaguy
Turtle,
You should try a product called AUTO-RX...Do a google search on it. It's a cleaning product that gets high marks in all reviews...but don't take my word for it.
You add it to your tramission fluid for a great cleansing..and can be applyed to motor oil as well.
I would recommend this product to cleanse your system first, then add syn.
I hope this helps..
You should try a product called AUTO-RX...Do a google search on it. It's a cleaning product that gets high marks in all reviews...but don't take my word for it.
You add it to your tramission fluid for a great cleansing..and can be applyed to motor oil as well.
I would recommend this product to cleanse your system first, then add syn.
I hope this helps..
thanks i will look into that. I'm still debating between going syn or keeping it dino. I see all the reason to go syn. But then i have no problems with my tranny NOW. The main reason that bugs me is that mixing syn with dino oil.
Has anyone done this?
#138
Originally Posted by TurTLe*
thanks i will look into that. I'm still debating between going syn or keeping it dino. I see all the reason to go syn. But then i have no problems with my tranny NOW. The main reason that bugs me is that mixing syn with dino oil.
Has anyone done this?
Has anyone done this?
I did a flush with Pennzoil syn-blend ATF at Jiffy Lube (because they won't allow me to bring in my own). After that, I have been doing drain-and-refill with Redline D4 ATF.
#139
I have done a drain and refill on my auto tranny twice within this year because it is really dark in color and not pink like it should be. My tranny is at 141k and I am thinking about having it flushed completely with new fluid. How much do shops charge for this? Do they use machines or is it just adding and removing all 8 or so quarts of it. Any help would be appreciated as the brown color is scarying me and I have a jerky 1 to 2 shift. Thanks.
#141
Pardon my question, but im about to do this SUPER project, but when u drop the pan, how much oil will get out, or how much you will have to replace to then start the flush? And where is the plug or place where u put in the new oil? My ATF has been overheating and it explodes thru the dipstick for some time now so I know that I am low on ATF, so I should first fill it up to correct level before starting the flush?
#145
3gen 89-94 Maximas with VG30E, tranny type RE4F02A (=non VE):
Oilchange -steps: amount should be between 1L/Quart - maximum 1¾quarts/Liters. Max Ten seconds engine idle for pumping (10s). Otherwise A/T pump may suck in air and cause foam /airbubble problems.
see writeup at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 page 24
Oilchange -steps: amount should be between 1L/Quart - maximum 1¾quarts/Liters. Max Ten seconds engine idle for pumping (10s). Otherwise A/T pump may suck in air and cause foam /airbubble problems.
see writeup at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 page 24
#146
TO REVIVE FROM THE DEAD.
i am still a bit unsure of whether to use regular MOBIL ATF or MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC ATF??
i have a 97 with almost 70k, within the last 5k i have been on mobil 1 syn and it is SMOOTH.. i read diff' things about friction additives and all that... i guess i would want to replicate the nissan d-matic formula as best as i can...
i am still a bit unsure of whether to use regular MOBIL ATF or MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC ATF??
i have a 97 with almost 70k, within the last 5k i have been on mobil 1 syn and it is SMOOTH.. i read diff' things about friction additives and all that... i guess i would want to replicate the nissan d-matic formula as best as i can...
#147
The Amsoil ATF is by one of the best tranny oils around. It can withstand ALOT more heat than any other tranny ATF out there.
If you guys want to test it yourself, Take any other Tranny oil.... and take a blow torch to it and looks at what happens to it after 30-40 seconds (lots of smoke)....... then take the torch to the Amsoil.... after 1 min.... (no smoke at all) Saw it for myself, so they got me....... I'm changing to Amsoil this early spring.
If you guys want to test it yourself, Take any other Tranny oil.... and take a blow torch to it and looks at what happens to it after 30-40 seconds (lots of smoke)....... then take the torch to the Amsoil.... after 1 min.... (no smoke at all) Saw it for myself, so they got me....... I'm changing to Amsoil this early spring.
#148
Hi guys Im new to this site so please bare with me, About a year ago I bought my Gandfathers I30t off of him before he passed away and he treated this car so well that it looks like its brandnew, anyway I got the car with 21,000 on it and I wanted to know if the Quafi (dont think I spelled that right) diff is a same fill as the tranny? or is it seprate from the auto its a 99 and I dont know if its a sperate fill or takes maul gear fliud? Thanks guys!
#149
Originally Posted by Love_00_Max
Let me get it right -- if you are doing a flush, first drain the old fluid from the pan by removing the tranny drain plug and u will drain anywhere from 4-5 quarts based on if the car is parked inclined or downward. Anyway, you will drain some quarts by draining the bolt. Dropping the pan and cleaning is optional (I did it though and there was quite a lot of clutch material on the magnets). Tighten the tranny plug and refill via the dip stick with new oil (4-5 quarts and with this the pan is full of fluid). Then disconnect the return line, start car and as old fluid comes out of the return line continue pouring into the fill line fresh fluid (remember as long as there is fluid coming out of the return line there is fluid in the tranny -- no reason to believe that the tranny will be running without oil as already the pan is full). Once you see clear fluid stop the car and top off the liquid.
IMP : There is always more fluid coming out of the return line compared to what you are pouring -- so stop when you have put 10 quarts of new fluid thro the sys. AND please use a galon jug to pour into the fill line -- these quart bottles are annoying becoz you would have to keep 6 of them opened and in close proximity becoz as soon as one quart is poured in the next should be ready. This whole exercise is a sure success if there are 3 folks -- one driving the car, one holding the return line and one pouring simulateouly into the tranny fill line. I personally don't like this 20 second / 2 quart logic.
Enjoy!!!
IMP : There is always more fluid coming out of the return line compared to what you are pouring -- so stop when you have put 10 quarts of new fluid thro the sys. AND please use a galon jug to pour into the fill line -- these quart bottles are annoying becoz you would have to keep 6 of them opened and in close proximity becoz as soon as one quart is poured in the next should be ready. This whole exercise is a sure success if there are 3 folks -- one driving the car, one holding the return line and one pouring simulateouly into the tranny fill line. I personally don't like this 20 second / 2 quart logic.
Enjoy!!!
All necessary parts listed in Post #2 and the following
1) 6 quarts (to be safe) for the drain and fill job alone
2) An additional 10 quarts for the flush job
So that comes out to be 16 quarts and all the necessary parts or what not from Post #2. Correct?
Another question...I do not have money to buy Mobil 1 or Amsoil so I'm going with Advanced Auto Tranny Fluid and will do a drain and fill in 25kmi. I also plan to install a tranny cooler. For a daily driver with NO performance mods, is the Advanced Auto ATF and Tranny Cooler with a refill every 25kmi good or am I setting myself up for failure by using that fluid? Thanks!
#151
You are right, it has been a long time since I have visited the flush thread.
Now, I have used Chevron DexronIII(H) in my last flush + 6oz of Lubegard Black and I am happy.
I understand you want to do a flush... Then when you drop the pan/remove the tranny bolt in the bottom you will get some 4Q only. Then clean the magnets and install the pan back with the gasket (apply ATF to the gasket, got it in Autozone, just like you install an oil filter before putting the pan to the tranny). Fill the tranny with 4 Q of fresh fluid and complete the flush. Remember the capacity of the tranny is 10Q, so flush with 16Q may be an overkill. Just get a case of the ATF (12Q) and do the flush. Remember to have empty milk gallon jugs for reference, since you drained 4 Q with removing the bolt, you will only have to flush out another 6Q via the return line. Using empty gallon milk jug is really helpful since you will exactly know how much has come out from the return line. Hope this helps.
Now, I have used Chevron DexronIII(H) in my last flush + 6oz of Lubegard Black and I am happy.
I understand you want to do a flush... Then when you drop the pan/remove the tranny bolt in the bottom you will get some 4Q only. Then clean the magnets and install the pan back with the gasket (apply ATF to the gasket, got it in Autozone, just like you install an oil filter before putting the pan to the tranny). Fill the tranny with 4 Q of fresh fluid and complete the flush. Remember the capacity of the tranny is 10Q, so flush with 16Q may be an overkill. Just get a case of the ATF (12Q) and do the flush. Remember to have empty milk gallon jugs for reference, since you drained 4 Q with removing the bolt, you will only have to flush out another 6Q via the return line. Using empty gallon milk jug is really helpful since you will exactly know how much has come out from the return line. Hope this helps.
#153
2002 maxima se
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: BUENA PARK, CA (orange county)
Posts: 1,082
I have 01 maxima..does anyone know every how many miles we have to flush the transmission oil....if flush is not needed then how many miles after the trany fluid needs to be changed? and is there any filter that needs to be replaced or any gasket? is it 30k or 60k? and hows the penzoil oil? I am confused plz help.
#154
2002 maxima se
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: BUENA PARK, CA (orange county)
Posts: 1,082
Originally Posted by OC guy
I have 01 maxima..does anyone know every how many miles we have to flush the transmission oil....if flush is not needed then how many miles after the trany fluid needs to be changed? and is there any filter that needs to be replaced or any gasket? is it 30k or 60k? and hows the penzoil oil? I am confused plz help.
BUMP PLZ..................
#155
So I am going to do the ATF change in a week and found some good link and am not sure if it has been posted before. I went through all the messages and may have skipped it. If I did, do excuse me.
If you want to change the ATF, AMSOIL has a good HOW TO:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br...rans_fluid.pdf
For questions on what fluids you require for whatever model:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/appli...aspx?zo=510227
clickety on the RED "Online Product Application Guide". Choose your make/model and it will tell you the rest.
I just ordered parts for the tranny flush fo rmy 99 max. Dealership price in my area:
Pan Gasket: 31397-80x01 $17.86
19mm Drain Plug: 31377-31x06 $7.10 (optional but I purchased it)
Pan Bolts: 31377-80X09 $1.05 each x 21 bolts = $22.05
Screen: 31728-80X04 $33.37 (Did not purchase)
AMSOIL ATF: 12 Quarts/1 case $87.29 (just ordered using the GroupDeal)
Grand total: $47.01 (Nissan Parts) + $87.29 (ATF Shipped) = $134.3
Nissan's regular tranny flush = $99.99
The dealership told me not to bother with the filter/screen/mesh. Its pointless to replace if it is not ripped and recommended cleaning and putting it back in.
If you want to change the ATF, AMSOIL has a good HOW TO:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br...rans_fluid.pdf
For questions on what fluids you require for whatever model:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/appli...aspx?zo=510227
clickety on the RED "Online Product Application Guide". Choose your make/model and it will tell you the rest.
I just ordered parts for the tranny flush fo rmy 99 max. Dealership price in my area:
Pan Gasket: 31397-80x01 $17.86
19mm Drain Plug: 31377-31x06 $7.10 (optional but I purchased it)
Pan Bolts: 31377-80X09 $1.05 each x 21 bolts = $22.05
Screen: 31728-80X04 $33.37 (Did not purchase)
AMSOIL ATF: 12 Quarts/1 case $87.29 (just ordered using the GroupDeal)
Grand total: $47.01 (Nissan Parts) + $87.29 (ATF Shipped) = $134.3
Nissan's regular tranny flush = $99.99
The dealership told me not to bother with the filter/screen/mesh. Its pointless to replace if it is not ripped and recommended cleaning and putting it back in.
#156
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Only "issue" I'd consider is if it's a HIGH mileage tranny that has only seen non-syn fluid, then synthetic *MIGHT* cause problems.
Most likely, the mechanic is confused by the API rating of the AMSOIL compared to Nissan recommendations.
Most likely, the mechanic is confused by the API rating of the AMSOIL compared to Nissan recommendations.
#157
I have used Chevron non-syn ATF for most of my flushes and drain/fills since warranty was out and now with 105K it is going strong!!!
My last flush, I used Mercon V/DexronIII Chevron ATF ($2.99/Q) and my cold shift-shocks have disappeared and the shifts are better than the regular with regular Dexron/Mercon ATF. Since we have Jatco tranny requiring Nissan Matic or Dexron/Mercon, then the MerconV or Multivehicle is definetly an improvement.
My last flush, I used Mercon V/DexronIII Chevron ATF ($2.99/Q) and my cold shift-shocks have disappeared and the shifts are better than the regular with regular Dexron/Mercon ATF. Since we have Jatco tranny requiring Nissan Matic or Dexron/Mercon, then the MerconV or Multivehicle is definetly an improvement.
#158
I am going to change my ATF today. I will try and take pics of the stuff and hopefully it can be added to the write ups that have been provided earlier.
1. Tranny pan pic.
2. Tranny Pan after dropping. Note: My gasket was stick to the pan. It took some time to scrape it off the edges. THe 2 collection magnets are indicated. I found it pointless to use soap to lean the pan. BRAKE CLEANER is the best thing you can use. Spray it on liberally and wipe it off clean.
Here is a close up of one magnet. There are fine metal shavings on it. You can pop the magnets off and clean them. I used a SmCo rare earth magnets to get the filings off, cleaning is a *****.
4. Once you drop the pan you can see the filter/screen part. Here is the picture after I cleaned it with brake cleaner. I think there are a 11 bolts and 1 nut. All are 10 mm. The nut will require a deeper 10mm socket to take it off easily.
Keep track of the bolts, they are of varying lengths. Try now to push the lone nut upwards when you take it off; the bolt part will move inwards (up). I used a plier to pull it back down.
There wasn't any debris at all in the filter. Just some oil build up. I dropped my pan after 110K.
5. Finally the tranny pan gasket. Put this on after cleaning the pan and stripping off the old gasket.
The rest of the instructions which show which hose to disconnected to flush out the rest of the tranny oil from the cooler are available on the first page of this thread.
Some observations:
DON'T FORGET TO RUN THROUGH THE GEARS WHEN FILLING THE FLUID. I forgot to do this and about a quart and a half less. Luckily I caught this early when I felt a HARD SHIFT.
1. I used brake cleaner to clean all the parts that required cleaning. SOOO MUCH EASIER AND FASTER than using soap.
2. All bolts/nuts are 10mm except the tranny pan bolt which is 19mm. None of the bolts were torqued a lot. They were easy to get off and putting them back was also easy.. Just make sure you don't tighten them a lot. Your girlfriend or mom should be able to get unscrew them.
3. The tranny pan gasket was stuck to the pan so well, that it seemed unnecessary to replace it, I replaced it anyway. (I felt better afterwards).
1. Tranny pan pic.
2. Tranny Pan after dropping. Note: My gasket was stick to the pan. It took some time to scrape it off the edges. THe 2 collection magnets are indicated. I found it pointless to use soap to lean the pan. BRAKE CLEANER is the best thing you can use. Spray it on liberally and wipe it off clean.
Here is a close up of one magnet. There are fine metal shavings on it. You can pop the magnets off and clean them. I used a SmCo rare earth magnets to get the filings off, cleaning is a *****.
4. Once you drop the pan you can see the filter/screen part. Here is the picture after I cleaned it with brake cleaner. I think there are a 11 bolts and 1 nut. All are 10 mm. The nut will require a deeper 10mm socket to take it off easily.
Keep track of the bolts, they are of varying lengths. Try now to push the lone nut upwards when you take it off; the bolt part will move inwards (up). I used a plier to pull it back down.
There wasn't any debris at all in the filter. Just some oil build up. I dropped my pan after 110K.
5. Finally the tranny pan gasket. Put this on after cleaning the pan and stripping off the old gasket.
The rest of the instructions which show which hose to disconnected to flush out the rest of the tranny oil from the cooler are available on the first page of this thread.
Some observations:
DON'T FORGET TO RUN THROUGH THE GEARS WHEN FILLING THE FLUID. I forgot to do this and about a quart and a half less. Luckily I caught this early when I felt a HARD SHIFT.
1. I used brake cleaner to clean all the parts that required cleaning. SOOO MUCH EASIER AND FASTER than using soap.
2. All bolts/nuts are 10mm except the tranny pan bolt which is 19mm. None of the bolts were torqued a lot. They were easy to get off and putting them back was also easy.. Just make sure you don't tighten them a lot. Your girlfriend or mom should be able to get unscrew them.
3. The tranny pan gasket was stuck to the pan so well, that it seemed unnecessary to replace it, I replaced it anyway. (I felt better afterwards).
Last edited by hellfyre; 05-17-2008 at 01:19 PM.
#160
Originally Posted by compnurd2K2MAX
i would imagine that it would be the easiest thing to just take out the drain plug. measure as much as i can out, refill that. then maybe drive around and do it again. this should get me the most of a change correct?
Absolutely. Repeat at least 3 or 4 times though. Once a month for 6 months if you're really ****.