bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

1995 to 2001 Maximas:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/511

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Please use the search function in the following forum to determine the effectiveness of whichever additive you are considering:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...?ubb=forum;f=5



The only oil additives that seem to be effective are as follows:


Auto-RX: www.auto-rx.com

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=5;t=000671


Schaeffer's Neutra is another additive that seems to be effective as well:

http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/292.htm
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=000622#000000


As far as which is better/best, you decide:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=000014#000000

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Link to Bob is the Oil Guy's forums:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

hoodedmunkee

does anybody have any experience with these?i wanna try it but i would ask around for comments first.

http://restoreusa.com/

Free

bill99gxe,

I was reading your post regarding Rx and Neutra, from my experience over at BITOG forum you referenced, Lube Control and Fuel Power along with AutoRX are the top additives reccomended with Neutra being a distant 4th.

max_shop

More information....

Go to: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cave/

and then click on "Synthetic Oil Life Study". Click on the "Sidebars" for some interesting analysis & info.

Dave2112

What about Lucas oil add..is it any good?

joecraps

I've read alot about oil aditives on Bob is the Oil Guy's forums and other places. Oil additives. They generally are a waste of money and today's oils are good enough and don't need them. I have seen evidence that additives actually do more harm than good - they can cause oil foaming and reduce sheer stability. Sludge removers such as Auto-RX may be of some value. Restore, teflon additives, etc. are crap. If you are really set on putting something better in the crackcase, use a good synthetic - Mbile one, German castrol, etc. IMO, use castrol GTX and nissan OEM or purolator filter and change it at 4-5K intervals. Your car will last 200,000 plus - mine has and still going strong!

ebaker

I found 2 oil additives from the Bobistheoilguy site I like. General Motors Engine Oil Suppliment has LOTS of the antiwear chemical ZDP as well as other good additives. This is usually used as a camshaft break in lube. Adding only 2 ounces to 5 quarts of oil will increase the ZDP concentration by 160 PPM (parts per million). It's $8/16oz. at GM dealers
Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment contains lots of Moly and ZDP. Adding 1 ounce per quart will add 100 ppm Moly and 75 ppm ZDP. It's $4/15oz. at PepBoys.
The new SM (GF4) engine oil standard has reduced the allowable Zinc (ZDP) antiwear/antifriction/antioxidant additive. Certain aftermarket additives may be useful in boosting the apparently watered down new oils.

VQdriver

i'm interested in lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. does anyone have any first hand experience with it? it sounds promising, but i'm still skeptical.

battle_zone

Any one use bi-tron I found out about it on ebay and watched the videos.
You guys should check it out and if alot of people are interested maybe we could get a group deal going.

TempMaxMan

I just posted this in reply to a guy in the 3rd gen forum.

It answers questions about Lucas and Engine Restore and describes some practical methods for deciding if an oil additive may be good or bad by inspecting it with your hands and eyes.

For the benefit of crazy4maxima, his maxima and any readers:

My theory is that it is possible, depending on what type of oil filter, what type of oil/additives you are using and how clean or dirty your engine internals are.... if you are using that Toyota filter that is made for a smaller displacement 4 cylinder, it may not provide for enough oil flow and only serve to clog oil there thus preventing much of your engine to be lubricated properly.

Luck be with you. You'll need it. The first word in your username suits you, or possibly a better/more accurate one is just "naive".

LUCAS "OIL STABILIZER" IS HORRIBLE!!!!!!!

I only used it once before to keep an engine running that basically had no rod bearing at all on one of the rods and thus a horrible knock leading to the engine being junk anyways.

I knew as soon as I opened the bottle and started TRYING to pour it that it was HORRIBLE. That stuff has the consistency of Elmer's Glue and tree sap OR WORSE.
Common sense tells me that's bad for anything that should be moving very freely with as little resistance as possible while still being lubricated very well. Plus, I Aced physics.

Not only is the stuff like putting glue and tree sap in your engine, thus creating immense resistance, excessive/added pressure in the wrong way, and not being likely to make it to all the small places it needs to lubricate, but even when it does make it into the smaller places .... it produces air bubbles as it is moved around. In other words .... it produces places in the engine that should be lubricated but are actually bone dry minus very little residue from anything that WAS there before.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

When looking at oil additives, make sure the stuff has a consistency more like oil and will actually lubricate. You want something that would flow through a small straw very quickly, barely slower than water, but certainly not like glue or tree sap. Also, attempt to "lather it up" in your hands like soap, but putting it on your hands and rubbing your hands quickly like you are trying to warm them with friction ... to see if the additive produces air bubbles. You don't want something that will produce air bubbles.

You want the engine to run with as little resiatance as possible and be lubricated in every small little crack as best as possible. You also want to be able to drain all of the stuff in the engine when you should/need to. You'll be lucky if you get half of the Lucas you put in to drain as much of it will stick itself all over various parts and stay there. SeaFoam in the crankcase and sucked in a vacuum line via the intake manifold may help get it out. I suggest you do that ASAP.

I suggest that you follow my SeaFoam etc clean, tune up and restore steps here
( http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=24 , http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=30 ), and try some 10-40 or 15-50 Mobile 1 Synthetic with Engine Restore AFTER you do all the steps and drain the crank-case and change the oil filter. If it doesn't make your engine run better and you have large noises of metal on metal coming from your engine, your screwed because the engine internals are overly damaged for other reasons and you might try to bandaid it with some Lucas for a while but you'll need to rebuild the internals (or some of them) or swap a better engine shortly.

The only engine additive that I suggest anyone use, other than only CLEANING with very low mileage use (maybe 25-45 miles max) SeaFoam, is Engine Restore.
http://www.restoreusa.com/
You can buy it at most auto parts stores.

** http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/-521...glepost11.html
"I have used restore on a couple of high mileage motors. It worked just fine. On a slant 6 I had between 90 and 130 for compression readings and after I got 125+ on all cylinders.

It will not restore leaky gaskets or help knocking rods, or extreme oil burners. .."
(
The stuff that does {plug leaks, help knocking rods etc} is generally bad for the engine because it is like glue. If you have a leak or broken internals, replace the parts if you can and if you don't want to create more problems.)

** http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/-523...glepost19.html
"My senior year in highschool, I did an "experiment" for a 4-H project to see whether or not some of these so-called snake oil additives did any good. I took a well used 3.5hp briggs motor, pulled it apart and photographed both the cylinder walls and piston skirts. I also measured compression, and did a "seat of my pants" power feeling on my old go-cart. I poured in a measured amount of Engine Restore, keeping engine restore/engine oil ratios the same. I ran the engine for 40 (I figured 2000 miles for a conservative oil change, 2000 miles/60 mph average= 40 hours.) hours at varying RPMs, shut it down and did compression tests again. It had jumped amazingly, and I changed oil, added the same amount of engine restore, and repeated the 40 hour engine run. I measure compression, more increase was noted, and I put the engine back on the old go-cart. Even for a small 3.5hp briggs, I noticed an increase in power. To not be biased, I used a friend who did not know about the test, and he noted the increase in performance as well. Again I disassembled the engine, photographed the cylinder walls and piston skirts again, and they were also notable smoother. Though I understand that a small Briggs engine is much different that a small block in size and strength, the components are similar as is the general function. I received a blue ribbon at the state fair, and have become a believer of the stuff."

Not unusual with Lucas, but Lucas is not good for your engine. It will bandaid problems for a bit, and cause a lot of problems as time goes on.

I wouldn't even drive it more than 50 miles (maybe 5 miles) with Lucas, if I wanted to do it at all. I'd try my SeaFoam etc clean, tune up and restore steps here ASAP
( http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=24 , http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=30 ), and try some 10-40 or 15-50 Mobile 1 Synthetic with Engine Restore AFTER you do all the steps and drain the crank-case and change the oil filter. And hope for the best. Replace gaskets and parts if necessary, instead of adding glue and tree sap.

Interested in your feedback/update.

Just trying to help.

djcallao

awesome thread man. thanks

super32

iTrader: (5)

I've been using Lucas Oil Stabilizer in my '91 Max, and haven't been seeing many problems. I will attest that I've been using it in my last 3 or 4 oil changes.

I agree, that the Oil Stabilizer is viscous as maple sap (take that lightly! it is more viscous that regular 10W30 oil). But, what I also noticed in the oil change after my first use of the Oil Stabilizer is that the oil becomes a part of the regular oil you put in, because when I changed it out, it was not viscous at all. So, realizing that the Oil Stabilizer is viscous at first and then seems to break down after use, I decided that after adding in the Oil Stabilizer, I would let my engine idle up to regular operating temperature, since at that temperature I can assume that, at least, the Oil Stabilizer has somewhat become less viscous. As is with all old cars, it is always better to let the engine idle for 1 or 2 min during a cold start. Cold starts can be considered as not operating the engine for more than 4 or 5 hours, by which most of the oil has already found its way back into the oil pan.

However, I will take TempMaxMan's opinion seriously. Perhaps, the Oil Stabilizer is in fact bad. But, just from my experience, it hasn't deteriorated my performance. BUT! nor have I experienced any difference in "bettering" the engine lubrication system. That is something I just can determine without breaking open the VG.

So, the summary iiisssss.... Lucas Oil is a toss up, IMO, simply from reading what TempMaxMan has said and what I've unbiasly experienced myself. It's all down to "Do you or don't you want to spend the extra $8" to add the Oil Stabilizer.

Good luck, all.

mikejw22

iTrader: (1)

This link says to add 3 liters of oil but the manual says the engine requires ~4.5 liters, which is correct?

MaximaDvr

Actually, if you read carefully, at the end of the instructions he explains how he ends up adding another full liter after checking at 3 liters then 3.5 liters just to make sure everything looks good. All said and done he used 4 liters.

SoulEater

iTrader: (7)

I'm totally agree with you buddy
OIL ADDITIVES = Waste your money and even can make your engine worst.

I like to suggest people who wants to use oil additives because they consider the miles on your car. The higher miles your car have the more thicker oil you need. for example 0-60000 miles you need 5-30 W, 60000-120000 miles you need 10-30W so far and so on but always use full synthetic with the top of the line oil filter and always change your oil every 3000 miles. if you fallow my advice, your car will last 300000 miles

ROCKART

iTrader: (23)

You can use AUTORX in conjunction with LC20? ???? you just dump them both in at the same time? are you sure ? !?! !

perkman87

iTrader: (6)

restore is a great product

1993-VG30E-GXE

REPLY TO TEMP MAX MAN:

Maxman, can you give me some suggestions how to get that Heavy Duty Lucas Oil Stabilizer out of my car? My old Max has over 300K on it. My friend is obsessed with Lucas products and convinced me to buy it. This car has never had any oil stabilizer throughout it's life. Recently some repairs were done, 2 injectors were replaced as well as the fuel pump. It was running fine.

Then I got the oil changed. Then we put in the 1 L bottle of the lucas and I drained out 1 L of oil first before the lucas. Because the car is so old, I can't say for sure that it was caused by the lucas, but the car would almost stall at stoplights when moving from idle position. It was horrible and scary, to make it go, I would have to push the gas pedal hard almost to the floor in spurts, and the car sounded like it was coughing. It did this for about 3 weeks. Now it stopped doing it, but I don't know why. It never actually stalled to OFF, but it felt like it was.

These symptoms happened almost immediately after the lucas was put in.

Immediately after I had the fuel pump and injectors replaced, I did the top end treatment with the Seafoam through the brake booster vaccuum, then 1 full seafoam bottle in the gas tank. The car ran fine after this for awhile. Then came the lucas after the oil change. (Prior to the oil change I put in half can of seafoam into crankcase and drove the car for 5 minutes and had them drain it hot) After the Lucas it started doing this stalling thing, like the car is gasping or coughing for air, I put in another full bottle of seafoam into the gas tank to see if that would cure it. I had 2 more near stall incidents, and then it hasn't done it since, and it's been about 2 weeks now.

Just my experience with Lucas. I have no scientific evidence to prove that Lucas did this, but I would appreciate any comments on how I can completely remove it from the vehicle. Im also curious if you think from this one application, that any serious damage could have been done already?

Bibbs0301

ive had alot of good results with lucas especially in automatic transmissions

jbrags

i will agree with you guys there are some good additives out there
that do work to a degree and others that just are a waiste one that
i heard from proffessional mechanics using is BG products like there 44k
fuell system cleaner
and MOA oil additive that i use and have seen the scientific proof
on the moa that backs that product up it works by extending the oils additive package to nearly double! that means better protection and a litlle longer in the oils crankase for my engine

bigs2000gle

has anyone here used xentx or know a anything about it? i got it today for free from my boss and im about to do an oil change this weekend but im not sure if it will harm my engine or do some good.

brager

Hello im new here so your looking for a additive for the oil
what use is bardhal B1 this stuff really works awsome no
kidding i noticed a little more pick-up on my engine and it
mixes with any synthetic oil this stuff aint a or does not
contain any PTF coating wich is bad for your engine dont use
slick 50

a ford engineer told me so wich he had hard facts proof
bardhal b1 leaves a very tacky film sort of like synthetic oil does
but better and it will protect your engine nice price to 5$ a bottle
heck cant beat that you can even go on youtube and see a legit
test where they run a car for 20 minutes drain and drive it no oil
for over 1200 kms!! try it for your self!!

stamar

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm


heres something that most everyone should know, that oil additives are almost all bull

Im paraphrasing but prolong has been sued and settled many many times.

these companies, as well as the intake mpg things like tornado are sort of legally allowed to lie to you.

They can bring to market something that does nothing, such as duralube which is just oil. really.
They can make false claims. They can make a lot of money. Then they can be sued and lose and disapear. All entirely legal.

Ive seen the cycle a few times now cause im getting older. My favorite line from the duralube thing is that they interviewed an astronaut as an expert on motor vehicle engine wear.
Heeehee. Like oh well hes an astronaut! He knows his stuff!

They should interview a dietician too lol. I dunno if anyone did see that ( and I know a lot of people do) duralube has been fooling stupid people for a long time. Its actually lower grade oil, like non api oil.

I dont even know what bardahl is but i think its bogus.

stamar

ps as far as that cycle goes

lucas oil additive does way more than nothing. It destroys your engine on contact.

I dont know that they make any claim otherwise.

Sort of just filled with word of mouth quotes like I used it and it made my car quieter...

I had lucas fuel injector cleaner rot the rubber from my injectors overnight. Poisonous.

This stuff is filled with complaints, look at any youtube video showing what it does to oil. Its ridiculous.

serdna

I was really thinking about using qmi additives until I read this report by the US Army. There is also this article that was originally in "road rider" magazine that has some really good info and makes some great points.

http://www.dtic.mil/cgi-bin/GetTRDoc?AD=ADA463121

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i..._Negative.html

Polyvinyl Alcohol

You can go to the related BBS to find, will find you want.