*Question regarding the installation of a new oil drain plug washer...*
03-14-2007, 06:35 PM
#41
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by dannodotcom
I have been doing oil changes on my vehicles for 30 years and have never replaced a washer, never had oil leak from the drain plug either. Had my Max (2000 SE) for 7 months now and have done 2 oil changes and have not replaced the washer and there is NO leak. When I do an oil change, I make sure to clean both mating surfaces (plug and pan). If a leak develops there then maybe I'll change my position on changing washe
10-31-2007, 05:10 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,898
I have been doing oil changes on my vehicles for 30 years and have never replaced a washer, never had oil leak from the drain plug either. Had my Max (2000 SE) for 7 months now and have done 2 oil changes and have not replaced the washer and there is NO leak. When I do an oil change, I make sure to clean both mating surfaces (plug and pan). If a leak develops there then maybe I'll change my position on changing washers.http://forums.maxima.org/newreply.ph...ply&p=2484781#
Dannodotcom
Dannodotcom
changing the washer isn't a big deal.. i've never had a leak.. change it if you want, but if not... YOUR CAR WILL EXPLODE!! j/k.. nothing will happen.. no bid deal
05-08-2008, 03:22 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,531
They sold me one but I wasnt sure how to install it so I just used the one that's on the plug already. It's a thick 1/16 copper washer. The one the dealership sold me is a thin, donut with no external side shaped copper washer, that had a notch in it. Really not sure how to install it.
Any of you have a solid copper washer like that?
Any of you have a solid copper washer like that?
05-08-2008, 03:59 PM
#44
I miss my VE
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,553
They sold me one but I wasnt sure how to install it so I just used the one that's on the plug already. It's a thick 1/16 copper washer. The one the dealership sold me is a thin, donut with no external side shaped copper washer, that had a notch in it. Really not sure how to install it.
Any of you have a solid copper washer like that?
Any of you have a solid copper washer like that?
02-15-2009, 01:24 PM
#45
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thomasville, GA
Posts: 270
Thinking about this, could it have to do with vacuum in the engine?
Heres what I mean: Ive noticed on the VQ, if you remove the oil cap, the idle drops, signifying vacuum change.
My 3vz-fe does this very pronounced.
So the question would be, does the gasket have a vacuum seal purpose.
Heres what I mean: Ive noticed on the VQ, if you remove the oil cap, the idle drops, signifying vacuum change.
My 3vz-fe does this very pronounced.
So the question would be, does the gasket have a vacuum seal purpose.
02-15-2009, 03:23 PM
#46
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 56
Rob_0126
I understand what you are saying, but the valve cover where the oil cap is has a slightly negative air pressure due to the PCV valve which is why when you take off the oil cap when the engine is running, the engine will stumble a bit, I think there are sensor(s) that get messed up if you do that too. The oil system, below the heads, has a pressure of about 30-70 PSI, so is kind of separate from the valve cover, even though some oil does get forced into that area. The oil plug on the oil pan on the bottom of the engine must be a tight enough seal to prevent oil from leaking out, it doesn't have to stop air getting in. So, the answer to your question is no.
I understand what you are saying, but the valve cover where the oil cap is has a slightly negative air pressure due to the PCV valve which is why when you take off the oil cap when the engine is running, the engine will stumble a bit, I think there are sensor(s) that get messed up if you do that too. The oil system, below the heads, has a pressure of about 30-70 PSI, so is kind of separate from the valve cover, even though some oil does get forced into that area. The oil plug on the oil pan on the bottom of the engine must be a tight enough seal to prevent oil from leaking out, it doesn't have to stop air getting in. So, the answer to your question is no.
Last edited by dannodotcom; 02-15-2009 at 04:14 PM.
02-15-2009, 05:56 PM
#47
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thomasville, GA
Posts: 270
Rob_0126
I understand what you are saying, but the valve cover where the oil cap is has a slightly negative air pressure due to the PCV valve which is why when you take off the oil cap when the engine is running, the engine will stumble a bit, I think there are sensor(s) that get messed up if you do that too. The oil system, below the heads, has a pressure of about 30-70 PSI, so is kind of separate from the valve cover, even though some oil does get forced into that area. The oil plug on the oil pan on the bottom of the engine must be a tight enough seal to prevent oil from leaking out, it doesn't have to stop air getting in. So, the answer to your question is no.
I understand what you are saying, but the valve cover where the oil cap is has a slightly negative air pressure due to the PCV valve which is why when you take off the oil cap when the engine is running, the engine will stumble a bit, I think there are sensor(s) that get messed up if you do that too. The oil system, below the heads, has a pressure of about 30-70 PSI, so is kind of separate from the valve cover, even though some oil does get forced into that area. The oil plug on the oil pan on the bottom of the engine must be a tight enough seal to prevent oil from leaking out, it doesn't have to stop air getting in. So, the answer to your question is no.
Does it do permanent damage to sensors if the cap is off for a short time, or does it just trip um?
02-15-2009, 09:47 PM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 56
Nope, won't do any damage to sensors, probably won't even trip them, unless you drive off without the oil cap. Then you would probably see a check engine light within a few minutes, not sure how well the engine would run either.
03-11-2009, 02:37 PM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
Posts: 819
My local dealer Rothrock Nissan charge $2.40 each. That was insane!!!Ya, Bob Moore Nissan here in Norman charged me $1.25 each and I thought that was a bit steep.
I change my every oil change. Cheap insurance against leaks.
07-02-2010, 05:55 PM
#50
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: the OC & Silicon Valley
Posts: 2,586
I wanted to chime in here even though people stopped posting over a year ago.
With all due respect to to Bill, I completely disagree with the statement that the FLAT end of the washer butts up against the drain bolt. The FLAT side was clearly designed to meet the oil pan. Having the flat side against the drain bolt can cause potential leaks. As we all know, the copper washer is designed to crush when the drain bolt is installed. If the flat side were to face the bolt head, the rounded side would end up being crushed over the threads of the drain plug. This might make very little sense when stated in words, but all one has to do is actually look at a drain plug and crush washer and it will all make sense. Having the flat side face the bolt makes it easier to remove the used washer from the drain plug because it'll thread off nicely, but it is incorrect and I'm certain that any Nissan engineer would agree with me.
With all due respect to to Bill, I completely disagree with the statement that the FLAT end of the washer butts up against the drain bolt. The FLAT side was clearly designed to meet the oil pan. Having the flat side against the drain bolt can cause potential leaks. As we all know, the copper washer is designed to crush when the drain bolt is installed. If the flat side were to face the bolt head, the rounded side would end up being crushed over the threads of the drain plug. This might make very little sense when stated in words, but all one has to do is actually look at a drain plug and crush washer and it will all make sense. Having the flat side face the bolt makes it easier to remove the used washer from the drain plug because it'll thread off nicely, but it is incorrect and I'm certain that any Nissan engineer would agree with me.
06-01-2014, 12:33 AM
#52
First, let me get this out of the way for fakie. "I just bumped a 3 year old thread, I must be a moron".
Alright, now to information. While most of you have changed the oil on your Max 10-20 times, I have changed the oil on over a thousand Nissans. Replace the damn crush washer, every oil change. Why? Because it is there to prevent leaks. Sure you can go without doing it. But you have to tighten the bolt more to get the same seal quality, risking warping the pan, stripping the bolt/pan, etc. Using a new crush washer will allow you to just seat the bolt until it stops turning easily and another 10° of rotation and you are golden. If you re-use the old washer and do get a leak, goodluck getting the old one off the bolt after it gets welded to the head from multiple torquings. I have other techs at the shop who dont replace them every time and I can always tell when I get a car they changed the oil in last. If you are worried about a dollar per 3k miles, go buy a honda, they use non-crush washers.
Alright, now to information. While most of you have changed the oil on your Max 10-20 times, I have changed the oil on over a thousand Nissans. Replace the damn crush washer, every oil change. Why? Because it is there to prevent leaks. Sure you can go without doing it. But you have to tighten the bolt more to get the same seal quality, risking warping the pan, stripping the bolt/pan, etc. Using a new crush washer will allow you to just seat the bolt until it stops turning easily and another 10° of rotation and you are golden. If you re-use the old washer and do get a leak, goodluck getting the old one off the bolt after it gets welded to the head from multiple torquings. I have other techs at the shop who dont replace them every time and I can always tell when I get a car they changed the oil in last. If you are worried about a dollar per 3k miles, go buy a honda, they use non-crush washers.
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