Go Back   Maxima Forums > Maintenance, Tech, & Care > Fluids and Lubricants
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register Photos FAQ Timeslips Members Parts Guide Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read ExperienceUsed CarsGarageVendor Directory
Search

Fluids and Lubricants Motor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.

Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-09-2005, 09:54 PM   #1
SmackDown85
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Best Brake Fluid Brand/Type

What is the best all-around brake fluid brand and type? I live in Florida and I drive somewhat aggressive on roads. Car is daily driver and I like to go fast and stop quick . What can you guys recommend?
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2005, 03:55 AM   #2
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: SF bay area
iTrader: (16)
Posts: 1,339
Points: 9,869, Level: 66
Points: 9,869, Level: 66 Points: 9,869, Level: 66 Points: 9,869, Level: 66
Activity: 2.5%
Activity: 2.5% Activity: 2.5% Activity: 2.5%
ATE super blue. Peroid.
aussie983 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2005, 11:35 AM   #3
The Definitive AE Master
 
Larrio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
iTrader: (10)
Posts: 5,672

not true.... if you really want the best with high wet/dry boiling point you go race inspired

motul 600
ap racing brake fluid

but since you drive on the street, just go with prestone or ATE
__________________
AP Racing BBK, TS ECU, ES everything, HIDs, Frakencar b-pipe, 18x9 F, 18x9.5 R
Stillen Intake, Y-pipe, STS, FSTB, and RSB, Fidenza Flywheel, SPEC Alum. PP, AP Racing Clutch

5spd Urethane Shifter Bushings!
click HERE !!
Larrio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2005, 03:38 PM   #4
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pleasanton,CA
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 1,136
Points: 10,847, Level: 68
Points: 10,847, Level: 68 Points: 10,847, Level: 68 Points: 10,847, Level: 68
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Valvoline Syn DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid which is avaiable OTC.
Love_00_Max is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2005, 06:40 PM   #5
retired moderator


 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 27,161
Points: 72,469, Level: 100
Points: 72,469, Level: 100 Points: 72,469, Level: 100 Points: 72,469, Level: 100
Activity: 1.1%
Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1%

ATE Super Blue.

you can get it here: www.ogracing.com
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Again Irish the voice of reason in this coversation.
2000 Maxima SE (sold)
2009 Subaru WRX 280awhp/280awtq
1985 BMW 318i MR Rallycrosser
1970 Triumph GT6+
2008 4Runner SportEdition


The final "mod list" for the maxima (or at least most of it) LINK
The current mod list for the WRXLINK
irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2005, 05:05 PM   #6
SmackDown85
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larrio
not true.... if you really want the best with high wet/dry boiling point you go race inspired

motul 600
ap racing brake fluid

but since you drive on the street, just go with prestone or ATE
What do you mean "since you drive on the street" ?

Are you saying just to get ATE because it is cheaper? Is Motul 600 actually better but it's just more money?

Also can you buy Motul 600 locally at auto parts stores?
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2005, 11:00 PM   #7
I miss my VE

 
VEvolution's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 2,547
Points: 10,612, Level: 68
Points: 10,612, Level: 68 Points: 10,612, Level: 68 Points: 10,612, Level: 68
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%

dot3 STP brake fluid isn't bad. i've been havin a brake fluid leak for a long time, and i buy the cheapest stuff and works great
__________________
For Sale: 162k mile stock VE crank pulley, used HELLA horns, brand new aftermarket VG fuel pump, and a used right rear window motor. Also VE MAF sensor and mint VE fog light assembly. If you need any of these, please let me know

http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-gen...-new-more.html

VEvolution is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2005, 08:26 PM   #8
retired moderator


 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 27,161
Points: 72,469, Level: 100
Points: 72,469, Level: 100 Points: 72,469, Level: 100 Points: 72,469, Level: 100
Activity: 1.1%
Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1%

ATE blue is a race fluid, technically...it has a very high boiling point. But...it's also good for street use because of low water absorption (many race fluids absorb water quickly)....I've used it for years for both daily drivers and for autocross/road racing cars, never a problem.

The brake fluid will not "make your car stop faster" for regular driving though...the boiling point only really comes into play with constant, repetitive high speed braking.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Again Irish the voice of reason in this coversation.
2000 Maxima SE (sold)
2009 Subaru WRX 280awhp/280awtq
1985 BMW 318i MR Rallycrosser
1970 Triumph GT6+
2008 4Runner SportEdition


The final "mod list" for the maxima (or at least most of it) LINK
The current mod list for the WRXLINK
irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 10:31 AM   #9
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2004
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 2,059
Points: 9,291, Level: 64
Points: 9,291, Level: 64 Points: 9,291, Level: 64 Points: 9,291, Level: 64
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Alright first off i agree with the vote for Valvoline Syn Dot3-4, i bet that will serve your needs great.

To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
kcryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 12:06 PM   #10
Do I get a tax break?
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Elmhurst, IL
iTrader: (4)
Posts: 5,441

Quote:
Originally Posted by kcryan
Alright first off i agree with the vote for Valvoline Syn Dot3-4, i bet that will serve your needs great.

To adress the subject of water absorption, you want your brake fluid to absorb water, although it lowers your boiling point and makes you change it more often, without it your going to have mega rust in your expensive ABS (or non ABS but still expensive) parts.
Please explain this further... how does water help prevent rust? I would think that as the brake fluid absorbs moisture (since its hygroscopic), the changes of rust is higher with the older fluid, not with fresh fluid... what am I missing
njmodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 12:10 PM   #11
I'm needing a caw

 
Jeff92se's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
iTrader: (82)
Posts: 31,486
Points: 42,819, Level: 100
Points: 42,819, Level: 100 Points: 42,819, Level: 100 Points: 42,819, Level: 100
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
The better question is. If the fluid never absorbs water, how would it rust??

I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
__________________
2003 G35 Sedan. Mods comin'

3-gen parts for sale

Sold Jan 14, 2006'


Mod list:
Eibach/Konis - ST front sway bar/Addco rear bar - Blemco rstb - Otto fstb
350Z 18" touring wheels.
Modified Cattman Y, Custom flex, 4-gen Carsound cat, Custom cat-back, Y2K muffler
Custom CAI, custom ground kit, JWT ecu, Fidanza flywheel, ACT clutch, Jeff92se Cobra 13" bbk with 300zx 30mm polished alum calipers.
Jeff92se is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 12:25 PM   #12
Getting back to his roots

 
Join Date: Mar 2001
iTrader: (9)
Posts: 3,549
Points: 13,437, Level: 75
Points: 13,437, Level: 75 Points: 13,437, Level: 75 Points: 13,437, Level: 75
Activity: 2.9%
Activity: 2.9% Activity: 2.9% Activity: 2.9%

Send a message via AIM to Mizeree_X Send a message via Yahoo to Mizeree_X
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
The better question is. If the fluid never absorbs water, how would it rust??

I think he's referring to other brake fluids make you change it often as they absorb more water. Thus always having newer fluid in. But he's reasoning is flawed regarding the rust issue.
If the fluid didn't absorb water, then the water would form a second liquid phase in your brake lines, and that aqueous phase would probably be more apt to cause rust formation than if the water were absorbed into the brake fluid itself.
Mizeree_X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 12:46 PM   #13
I'm needing a caw

 
Jeff92se's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
iTrader: (82)
Posts: 31,486
Points: 42,819, Level: 100
Points: 42,819, Level: 100 Points: 42,819, Level: 100 Points: 42,819, Level: 100
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Well assuming he's using Dot3,4 or 5.5, it will absorb water. Unless you are refering to the all silicone dot 5, which is a no no

And as long as the additives on the fluid are new, it's not a problem. But as the fluid gets old, the additives wear out and can no longer prevent rust/corrision from occuring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
If the fluid didn't absorb water, then the water would form a second liquid phase in your brake lines, and that aqueous phase would probably be more apt to cause rust formation than if the water were absorbed into the brake fluid itself.
Jeff92se is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 09:05 PM   #14
Senior Member

 
Join Date: Sep 2004
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 2,059
Points: 9,291, Level: 64
Points: 9,291, Level: 64 Points: 9,291, Level: 64 Points: 9,291, Level: 64
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
If the fluid didn't absorb water, then the water would form a second liquid phase in your brake lines, and that aqueous phase would probably be more apt to cause rust formation than if the water were absorbed into the brake fluid itself.

Thats what i meant, sorry for the confusion.
kcryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 09:43 PM   #15
STFU n00b!

 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
iTrader: (44)
Posts: 18,080
Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
hard and fast numbers, so people can stop pissing in the wind:

Wagner 21B DOT 3
Dry, 401 F
no data on wet

Wagner ABS Blend DOT 4
"exceeds DOT 4 standard of 446 F"

Castrol GT-LMA DOT 3/4
Dry, 446 F
Wet, 311 F

Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4
Dry, 480 F
wet, 330F

Wagner Severe Duty DOT 5.1
Dry, "over 500 F"


AP Racing AP551 DOT 3
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 302 F

AP Racing DOT 5.1 fluid
Dry, 527 F
Wet, 363 F
(non-silicone based. WILL mix with dOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids)

ATE Superblue DOT3/4
Dry, 536 F
wet, 392 F

AP Racing AP550 "exceeds DOT standards"
Dry 550 F
no data on wet.

Ferodo Formula Racing - DSF 050A DOT 5.1
Dry, 572 F
"WARNING: FERODO FORMULA RACING IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR NORMAL ROAD USE."

AP Racing AP600 (no info on DOT certification)
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 410 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.

Motul RBF 600 DOT 3/4
Dry, 594 F
Wet, 421 F

Castrol SRF DOT 3/4
Dry, 590 F
Wet, 518 F

AP Racing PRF660 DOT 4
Dry, 608 F
Wet, 390 F
NOT suitable for systems with magnesium parts. chemically reacts with magnesium to produce gas. All old fluid must be purged from system and then system flushed with AP600 before being filled completely and bled.

Prospeed GS610 DOT 4
Dry, 610 F
Wet, 421 F



Sources:
http://www.apracing.com/car/brakefluid/dataselect.asp
http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/access/fluid.asp
http://www.saferacer.com/gsrabrfl.html
http://www.federal-mogul.com/vgn/ima...ageback.OL.pdf
also have several bottles of various brands on hand to read the labels.
Matt93SE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2005, 10:18 PM   #16
STFU n00b!

 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
iTrader: (44)
Posts: 18,080
Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Now for a translation of all those numbers..

for street driving, ANY of those fluids will be fine.
for agressive street driving, the Castrol GT-LMA would be the lowest temps I suggest.
for track use, the Castrol GT-LMA is also usually going to be fine for stock calipers and streetable pads (Axxis MM, Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S, Bendix, Wagner, Raybestos).

for higher temp use where you start to experience pad fade on the above mentioned pads, then I suggest bumping up to the Valvoline Synthetic fluid. for any true BBK or race pad (Hawk HP+ or Black, Axxis Ultimate, Carbotech, Ferodo, Wilwood, AP, Brembo, Porterfield R4 or R4E, etc), then the minimum I suggest is the Valvoline.

I used the valvoline a couple weekends ago at TWS. My 13" wilwood setup had the brakes hot enough to turn my rotor hat mounting bolts blue and melt the wheelweights off the inside of my wheels, and I never experienced brake fade of any sort. They just kept getting better. So honestly, there's not much a Maxima can do on street tires that will need anything above the Valvoline.

If you can boil that fluid on anything but a full blown road course and NOT get arrested doing it, then I'll buy you a can of ATE superblue.
__________________
04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
96 240SX- The race car
93 Maxima SE 5 speed- retired 1-5-09
Matt93SE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 06:57 AM   #17
Do I get a tax break?
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Elmhurst, IL
iTrader: (4)
Posts: 5,441

Matt,



I think this needs to be added to the fluids/lubricants stickies across all the forums - your last two posts are very informative (to put it lightly).

Thanks!
njmodi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:59 AM   #18
STFU n00b!

 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston
iTrader: (44)
Posts: 18,080
Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100 Points: 41,498, Level: 100
Activity: 0%
Activity: 0% Activity: 0% Activity: 0%
Just bored last night and didn't want to go to sleep.
__________________
04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
96 240SX- The race car
93 Maxima SE 5 speed- retired 1-5-09
Matt93SE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:59 AM
MaximaOrg
Nissan Maxima




Paid Advertisement
 
 
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


 




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:38 AM.


Maxima.org Forums Home Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Frequently Asked Questions on the Forums Search Find other members Registration is free! Support Maxima.org! Receive perks and benefits by donating to Maxima.org Questions? Comments?  Suggestions? Contact Us! Visit our Sponsors View and submit Maxima events Log Out of Maxima.org
Emails Backup