pbn85

iTrader: (8)

So I got my engine replaced (3.5L) when my old one started burning oil. I got the car back about a week ago. I have not shifted higher than (3300 rpms) and have since put 200 miles on the new engine. I got curious the day I got the car back and checked the oil. I was told that 4.25 quarts were added in the new engine but after letting the car sit for 2 hours on a flat surface I checked and it looked so clear...almost transparent! It was so clear I couldnt even check the level properly.

I read the sticky on VQ35 break in and read a little on this. Apparently this is some kind of special oil Nissan adds in new engines? Well how long does this have to be in the engine for? I was told to come in for an oil change and to monitor how the new engine is holding up in 1k miles. Is it supposed to be this clear?

Also, the tech said that its partially b/c since the internals are all new and the oil is new, it will have that colorless feature. But I always check the level after new oil is added (like immediately afterwards) and its always brownish..the normal color.

A question about gear oil (I have a 6mt). It was last changed w/ amsoil 5k miles ago. Is there any harm in changing the oil again right now?

thanks in advance!

SilverMax_04

When my 04 was new, I ran the original fill motor oil to 3,750 miles, per the owners manual. No harm in changing this oil early -- except the cost and the fact that such an early change may not be needed.

As for checking the exact level if you still can not see it on the dipstick -- here are my suggestions:
- Let the engine sit overnight.
- Before starting in the morning, pull out the dipstick.
- Use your finger & thumb to slowly slide down the dipsitck.
- You will feel when they reach the oil level.
- Note that spot on the dipsitck.

As for your manual trannie oil, I think that synthetic oil should be good for at least 30 K miles in our trannies. I changed my original fill oil at 30 K miles and wished I had changed earlier. But now that I have synthetic in the trannie, I plan to go to at least 40 K miles before changing it again.

n3985

iTrader: (36)

The really **** people I've read online change at 500, 1000, 1500, and 2000 with dino oil. Then run it to 15-20K and switch to synthetic. If I had a new engine I would personally change it at 1,000 and 2,000 with Castrol GT-X then switch to synthetic at 20,000.

SilverMax_04

For those who worry about "Global Warming" and wasting resources -- such frequent oil changes certainly are a gross example of the second issue.

The reasons for changing motor oil every 3 K miles have largely been corrected, including the following:

- The sulfur content of gasoline has been reduced sustantially since the days of leaded gasoline, including a government mandated reduction to ultra-low sulfur gasoline a year ago.

- The quality of motor oils (even dino) have increased since the 1960s or so, particularly the additive packages used in these oils.

So unless your vehicle sees extreme operating conditions (listed below) you should change your motor oil no more frequently than the owners manual recommends. And read the thread in Fluids and Lubes about many auto manufacturers increasing their recommended OCIs (for all of the reasons listed above).

Extreme operating conditions include:
- Dusty conditions from unpaved roads.
- Pulling a heavy load.
- Operating in cold weather where the engine never gets a chance to warm up before it's turned off.

Those who are too **** end up full of sheit.

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

****...I just noticed Nissan used the 15208-65F00 filter on my last oil change only 250 miles ago...what should I do?!?!? What will happen if I keep it on? I read the sticky saying its bad. Could this be the reason my oil level is in the middle of H and L even when they added the 4.25 quarts?

Edit: oh yea I have to go back in 1k miles for an oil change and so they can monitor how the new engine is holding up

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

my mom just bought a 2007 maxima se fully loaded, and i asked the mechanics and a few other people and they all told me the samething about breaking in the motor, they said that nissan breaks there motors in at the factory, however everyone has there own different opinions about breaking in the motor.

sky jumper

the filter is fine. nothing bad will happen. leave it on there. it has nothing to do with your oil level.

SilverMax_04

Correct. I will be fine for 1 K (or even 3 K) miles. Those with the cardboard ends should not be used for the longer drain intervals above 5 K miles.

As for the proper procedure for breaking in the engine -- read the owners manual -- it has all you need. Don't believe old wives or old mechanics over the manual.

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

ok cool...when I go back in 1k for the oil change, I will request for the 9E filter to be used anyway

STARR

iTrader: (1)

All cars need break-ins, not just the engine but the entire car has to wear in, brakes, axles, trans, suspension, tires, any moving part and especially the friction clutches in the CVT, I doubt any car will drive and perform right out of the factory the same as a car with several thousand on it.

For a VQ break-in or any new engine, let it warm up before you get on it, take it easy for the 1st 1000 and at 1000 change the oil, then again at 4000, then again at 7000 and at 10000 put sythetic in it or you can continue with 3k changes until 15k or 20k then switch to sythetic.

Only other advise would be always let the engine get to the proper operating temp before you start driving in your normal manner, I've seen plenty of cars, all different makes/models get WOT on an ice cold engine, since being from the northeast, WOT on subzero mornings are different then just a regular cold morning where the engine sat all night, still it's abuse but generally those cars loose power and start to burn cause of owner neglect.

My friend blew the motor in his Acura TL with 120k, thats with 3k changes, hard cold starts add something like 500 premature miles to the engine

pbn85

iTrader: (8)

I used to be one of those guys who would warm up the car (especially in winter time for 5-6 mins) and then start driving. but everyone told me I should only idle the car for a minute and then drive off b/c idling for longer than that will cause internal damage to the engine...I dont know how true that is. So I only idle it for 1 min now that its summer...is this ok?

Bobo

You only need to idle the engine for say 30 seconds in the summer and just drive away slowly. I try to keep the engine under 3,000 rpms for the first few miles (5-speed manual).

In the winter, extend the idling duration to say 60 seconds and drive away slowly.

Idling for any longer than the above is a waste of gas and serves no useful purpose.

sky jumper

Nissan says idle for 30 sec.

to add to bobs advice, my rule of thumb is to idle only until oil pressure reaches the top end of the motor -- as evidenced by oil gushing from the lifters. then drive easy until 10 minutes *after* the temp gauge reaches operating temp (oil takes longer to heat up than coolant).

so how long does it take for oil to gush from the lifters? it depends on temperature and the oil's viscosity characteristics (and of course the oil filter).

I noticed at temps below about 70F there's a definite transition from what I'll call "minimal flow" to "full flow". at first it appears the cam is operating dry, then you'll see some initial lubricity, then *bam* oil will gush from the lifter.

with a typical 5W30, here's what I've observed:

1) at 60F:
- minimal flow: ~20 sec
- full flow: ~50 sec

2) at 20F:
- min flow: ~55 sec
- full flow: ~150 sec

3) at 0F
- min flow: ~70 sec
- full flow: ~180 sec

4) at about 70F+ is appears oil flow is almost immediate -- by the time I start the engine, walk around to the front, and remove the filler cap oil is already flowing.

so I idle for about 30-45 sec in summer, and 1-2 minutes in winter, depending on how cold/hot it is.

the reasons you don't want to idle too long are:
a) it is a waste of gas
b) you'll cause excess fuel dilution in your oil, which shortens the oil's service life and can cause excess engine wear
c) you'll probably cause excess carbon deposits in your combustion chamber.