uttadms31

Hello, I have a '98 I30 with 235k on it and a couple dipstick issues.
1) My engine oil dipstick even after the car sits overnight always reads about a 1/3 inch (or about half of the hatched area - 1pint?) above the top of the hatched area, even after adding exactly 4.25 qt in an oil change. And I don't think there's issues with sludge buildup since the oil comes out fairly clean when I do my changes. Is this normal? / Would buying a new dipstick fix this?

2) My tranny fluid comes out a couple inches too high on the dipstick!, whether I'm checking it cold or hot after a drive. I did change it about 30k miles ago at the dealer and remember it being high then; just didn't know if it was an issue then. Color still looks good on it, and my shifting is very smooth. Should I change the fluid right now since it's so high on the dipstick (bad reading?), or can I wait a while until my next interval change (60k or so) since it's running smooth and has no leaks or problems. I do mostly highway driving.

Thanks.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

There should be markings on your oil dip stick that says low and full. Check both sides.

Are you checking your automatic transmission fluid with the car warm and running?

uttadms31

Yes I check both sides. I guess I'm more concerned about the tranny dipstick. When I check that dipstick after a 5 minute or so driving I shut the car off then check the dipstick after wiping it. It ends up very high, and it is also very high when I check the cold side after the car sits overnight.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

To check either the HOT or COLD side of the dipstick you need to keep the engine running.

Drive the MAX for at least 15min up to 45mph to change all gears. Leave the engine running in park while checking the HOT side of the dipstick.

uttadms31

OK I did all this and checked it correctly. I'm reading about a half inch higher than the top of the HOT hatched area. Is this a big deal? Like I said I changed it 30k miles ago, still have good color on it and no tranny issues. I was hoping to hold off on a change until the 60k interval. thanks

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I change my ATF every 30k miles by performing this non-pressurized flush routine

https://maxima.org/forums/fluids-lub...eck-level.html

If you feel no need to change the ATF then remove that extra ATF. I over filled my AT several years ago and used the ATF return line cooler hose to remove ~ 1/2 quart. Removing the fluid via the drain plug might of extracted too much ATF and maybe required another crush washer.



The ATF cooler hoses connect from the AT to the lower side of the radiator. The return line hose is the upper hose with pinching clamps on it. The feeding hose is the lower hose with screw clamps. To reach that hose you'll have to drop the engine splash guard.

NOTE: If no ATF drips from the return hose then start the engine for a few seconds.