Right angle drill for removing broken water pump bolt
07-19-2015, 12:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 23
Right angle drill for removing broken water pump bolt
1996 with 150k+ miles. I was really hesitant to attempt this level of a repair myself but I read everything I could find on here and watched the youtube videos and decided to try it. Everything was going really well until this morning when I was installing the new WP and broke the head off the upper bolt. BTW, don't anyone pay attention to the torque settings in Haynes manuals, they're obviously wrong. 
Now, I know I need to drill out/use an extractor on the remaining piece of the bolt, but what drill attachment or right angle drill and bit will fit between the frame rail and the bolt? I have about 4" to work with and all the attachments and right angle drills I've seen are too deep. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
And it's broken off flush with the hole so no chance of welding on a nut I don't think.
Now, I know I need to drill out/use an extractor on the remaining piece of the bolt, but what drill attachment or right angle drill and bit will fit between the frame rail and the bolt? I have about 4" to work with and all the attachments and right angle drills I've seen are too deep. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
And it's broken off flush with the hole so no chance of welding on a nut I don't think.
07-22-2015, 02:13 PM
#2
Pretty simple. Forget the right-angle drill. Just drop your crossmember, leave the transmission side mounts connected, support the engine with a jack on the oil pan or crank pulley (with wood or something in between to not damage the pulley) and either lower it down a few inches or raise it up a few inches (whichever is the least amount of travel necessary) to access the water pump area without the frame rail being in the way.
I've had to do this a few times on my 3rd gens over the years because otherwise you almost can't replace the water pump with the engine in the car.
I've had to do this a few times on my 3rd gens over the years because otherwise you almost can't replace the water pump with the engine in the car.
08-16-2015, 05:52 AM
#3
Two things:
1. You've stated that the bolt "head" sheared.
That being the case, I'm assuming you've still got the full length of the shaft still in tact. If that's true then you can pull the WP back out and have some length of shaft exposed.
Again, if this is all true you can grasp that exposed length with a vice grip or other suitable tool and work the bolt out without any drilling and without moving the motor at all.
2. Re-read the Haynes torque specs. I think you may have read them as Ft. Lbs. when they're actually In. Lbs.
1. You've stated that the bolt "head" sheared.
That being the case, I'm assuming you've still got the full length of the shaft still in tact. If that's true then you can pull the WP back out and have some length of shaft exposed.
Again, if this is all true you can grasp that exposed length with a vice grip or other suitable tool and work the bolt out without any drilling and without moving the motor at all.
2. Re-read the Haynes torque specs. I think you may have read them as Ft. Lbs. when they're actually In. Lbs.
Last edited by Turbobink; 08-16-2015 at 05:55 AM.
09-02-2015, 06:48 AM
#4
For a right angle drill I have a couple milwaukees but as turbobink said if you still have adequate threads left I'd use a stud remover tool such as Snap-On CGM515B or an equivalent other brand amazon as the snap-on has a hefty price for a weekend warrior. Heat and vice grips could do the trick as well, but if you can get that tool on it you'll have considerably better chances.
If not, I'd use a punch to center and then drill the broken bolt out and use a bolt extractor kit with a reverse cut drill bit. I'd see if you can do it under the size of the bolt so you could potentially save the threads (well you'll need to retap it but you could do that and see if it'll hold up to torquing it).
And +1 to James, I wouldn't attempt it without a snap-on ratcheting wrench. On the VE I believe the 10mm let me get to everything I couldn't get with a standard ratchet. It was a life saver.
If not, I'd use a punch to center and then drill the broken bolt out and use a bolt extractor kit with a reverse cut drill bit. I'd see if you can do it under the size of the bolt so you could potentially save the threads (well you'll need to retap it but you could do that and see if it'll hold up to torquing it).
And +1 to James, I wouldn't attempt it without a snap-on ratcheting wrench. On the VE I believe the 10mm let me get to everything I couldn't get with a standard ratchet. It was a life saver.
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09-09-2015 05:55 AM