panabiker

Has anyone done brake fluid flush/replace by pumping into the reservoir, or is it even possible? A friend of mine always does this on his VWs. It's easy and does not require a helper. Basically, he removes the cover of the reservoir and replaces it with an adapter connected to a fluid pump. This is a special VW tool. Unfortunately, VW reservoir cover is not compatible with Nissan's.

I use a generic vacuum bleeder but I can never be sure if the bubbles I see through the transparent hose are from the brake line or due to the leakage between the hose and the bleeding valve. This is why I think a pump may be a better way to do it.

StevieB

iTrader: (1)

There are pump bleeders available that have adaptor caps for pretty much whatever you need, including VW. http://www.motiveproducts.com/ .I made my own, using http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...atech/bleeder/ as reference...It works, but I made a bloody mess one time when I was less than patient and pumped too much pressure ..it created a leak ..reservoir seal I suspect...never did pinpoint where,but it was only present under pressure. I went back to gravity bleeding and/or the one man procedure after that...ie(for the benefit of anyone not familiar with the method) an empty water bottle with a clear hose inserted(tight=no air infiltration), hung with wire above the level of the caliper, and the hose tip in the bottle always submerged in brake fluid.You can pump brake pedal repeatedly with caliper bleeder valve open, as long as you never run the brake reservoir dry, and see if there is still air escaping from caliper via the transparent tubing,then tighten bleed screw once bled.... less potential for nasty surprises. I've read people have good results using the power bleeders though.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Save yourself a lot of headache and get speed bleeders. They have check vales to prevent air infiltration. I have them on all my vehicles and they make bleeding a one man job doable in less than 30 minutes.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Yup, I have one of those bleeding setups. It's great because I rarely have a helper around and even when I do it's much faster. At first I was paranoid about microbubbles getting in the lines but meh.

I dump a quart or two of brake fluid in the tank, hook it up and pressurize it. Then go to all four corners and bleed until the new fluid comes out. If you can't tell a discernible difference well just pull a good bit out, with experience you get a good idea for how much it takes to flush a line. If you pull a small cup like you'd use with kids for brushing their teeth you'll in all likelihood have cleared the abs pump and lines.

The machine itself is generic. I just buy caps for all the cars at the parts counter and modify them to work with the machine. there's also a generic clamp and tops that come with it so you can technically use it on any car but I greatly prefer just building the tops for my cars. The easier you make it the more frequently you'll do it.

Also with it, I tend to do all the cars at once as to not leave fluid in the machine, although I've found in reality, unless you're racing it won't make a difference.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Anyone have a place the send their old fluid to?

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Around here the transfer station (place you can drop off stuff to go to the dump) has vessels for various liquids (I predominately use them for brake fluid and coolant, I take oil to a local parts store that handles oil recycling). My sisters community will send notices in the mail when they have recycling days, typically held at a local high school. It's actually a really cool event, they have vendors come out that for each industry to handle the recycling, the one time I went I didn't have enough time to look around (wasn't expecting it to be as large or organized as it was) but like interstate had a trailer for batteries, and there was the better part of 30 tents set up.

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

So i tried this method and this process does not work at all. or maybe im doing it wrong. Because every time i pump the diy sprayer pump, probably 2-3 psi it would start leaking from the MC cap. like the cap cant hold that much pressure. or probably from the seal where the MC reservoir fits into the MC.

*i even tried it with car running and off no luck so i gave up.

am i doing something wrong?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Maybe the cap that came with the bleeder doesn't fit properly on your MC.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Speed bleeders...trust me you will save yourself a lot of time and headache and never have to use any "bleeding tool" again. Just clear tubing and a container to dispose the brake fluid.

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

i modified the original cap..it leaks when im arpund 2-3 psi

yes ive heard of them, i guess i was just testing if this is the best method.

FanaticMadMax

There a better way of bleeding your brakes I saw on MotorWeek segment with Pat Goss Garage Guru and he showing the product from Phoenix system which is a reverse bleeding system which works very very well and better than the typical bleeding brakes. you have to google the words Phoenix reverse bleeding and you'll see it'll speak for itself I have for one bought it and it make my brake pedal hard, not like spongy after trying to do the old fashion way of bleeding since it is indeed a pain in the butt to do. But this one made it 20x easier