Where to get an Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid
I pulled this code diagnosing my car. Any suggestions on where to find one?
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
Also got this one, suggestions welcome.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).
This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.
Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.