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Infiniti I30/I35 Similar to a Maxima, yet not really a Maxima. Discussion forum on Nissan's luxury model, the Infiniti I30/I35

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Old 01-23-2008, 07:46 AM   #1
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???Battery and Altenator???

sup,
car just all of a sudden just decided to die on me. 2000 i30 - 57,000 miles.
Had to get it jumped 3 times to make it home.
First i thought it was the battery - the battery light and brake light came on together. So i changed the battery, Die Hard Gold - $100.00.
Two days later the battery light and brake light came on again, i was in the middle of the highway i thought it was going to die on me again. Thank God i made it to the mechanic shop.
They told me it was the altenator. So i got that changed with the belt for $210.00 with labor.
I called a local aftermarket parts dealer, the wanted $189 for altenator.
Dealer wanted $394.
Mechanic told me $185 installed (aftermarket)
So anyone changed their altenator?
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:36 AM   #2
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plenty of ppl here have changed their alternators.

it's not something you can't do yourself
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the opposite of a mod list:
motor mounts, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, suspension leaks, headlights,Air Conditioning, corner lights, fog lights, interior leather, sunroof leaks, radiator support rubber, rusty rear swaybar, 200k struts, etc...

Repairs done:
Front Bumper, Passenger Fender, Most vacuum leaks, sunroofleaks, indiglo gauges, HID mounts
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:32 PM   #3
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haha my 2k i30's alternator died on me and left me in the middle of the road too and i got mine for 180$ genuine nissan parts with free labor and a new mass airflow for 108$ shipped
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:55 AM   #4
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Can a 14 Volt alternator still be BAD?

My car drains a brand-new or otherwise charged battery while driving.

I thought I had a parasitic drain problem, found a sticky trunk release switch, fixed it, and metered my turned-off current to only 3 ma.

But the car still drained a brand-new Optima from 12.6 volts to 8+ volts and left me stranded.

When the car is running the alternator tests at 14 volts (measured at the battery terminals). I still suspect the alternator, possibly because that would be easy to fix, but also because it's hard to see why there would be such a drastic drain on the battery if the alternator were functioning when the car is turned on.

Help would be appreciated.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:22 AM   #5
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I think my Alt also needs to be changed. every morning when I go start my car, if i dont give it a little bit of gas for like 5 sec it'll die on me. Might be the battery also but they both needs to be changed.
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:50 PM   #6
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With the help of local professional auto technicians, I have run through $2000, three new batteries and three new alternators without putting a dent in my electrical problems, so now I am on my own again.

I have significantly cleaned up and upgraded the power system wiring, including a new main alternator wire and lots of grounding improvements.

I reconnected all the switches (trunk, hood, etc.) Then I checked the alarm.

With the doors closed but NOT locked, the dash alarm indicator stays dark.

When I use the remote to set the alarm, after about 30 seconds the dash light settles into a three-second blink.

Does that mean I can safely assume that the alarm is NOT preventing the computer from going into sleep mode?


Does it mean that I can safely assume that the trunk, lock, hood, and door switches are all working and are NOT the source of a parasitic drain problem?

Without referring to the alarm indicator, how can I tell whether the car is or is not in sleep mode?


Thanks.
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:51 PM   #7
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When the car is asleep (I hope) and the hood sensor is taped soundly into the close position, here are the fuse locations that still have current:

BATTERY IGN -- 4.20 TO 5.50 mA

ECCS 2 -- .59 mA

BCM -- 38.7 mA

ALT.S -- CHIRPED AND BLEW FUSE ON MULTIMETER !!
12 V SHOWS IN VOLTAGE MODE

Over the last few months the car has been to a local garage and to the Nissan Dealer. I wonder if it's possible that they fiddled with the harness in some way looking for one voltage leak and manufacturing another.


By the way, I was going to test the relays, but can't seem to pull them from the Relay box. Even using pliers to depress what appear to be the locking tabs, I pulled them mighty hard wit no release; worried that if I pull too hard they might break or wreck their socket. Any advice?


Any help would be appreciated. I am going to drop this note in a couple of other related threads, just in case.
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:27 PM   #8
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hi,check the drain leak,this take time but you will save money not buying more batteries and alternators,since you have change alt. and battery i assume they are good and charging between 12.6 to 14.4 a]buy an ecm 9volts memory saver for 6.00dlls.,those ones that can be connect it at the cigarret lighter outlet to save your ecm and radio settings,b]check all fuses,i mean all fuses with ligths on and switch on,is everything is ok turn off lights and ignition switch off.go c.c]service engine light should be off,if you have the SEL on, scan your computer to pull out the codes,could it be an alternator shortage for example [ L terminal feedback]p.s.autozone or oreilly sell them for 70.00dlls.still much cheaper than a couple batteries and i am not laughing,i am just trying to help,if you do not have any obd ii codes you are ok for letter d.d]disconnect negative battery cable,pay attention here,i have been lucky with this procedure,you need a test light,20.00 heavy duty version do not buy the cheapo one for 1.99,it lies a lot.connect the test light prove to the negative disconnected terminal wire,if you want you can tape it so it does not get loose and connect the test light spring clamp to the negative battery,if the test light bulb is on something is draining the battery,back to the fuses compartment and make notes but please make notes,the way i use is this one,i make notes where all the fuses [color and gauge # goes,even the spare ones]i pull out all the fuses,if the test light bulb go away,stop pulling the fuses right there,start installing the fuses back,went you see the test light comes on check where it correspond that fuse and bingo that circuit is draining your battery,caution if you using small draining for example a gps system probably the test will light,if that happend leave that fuse out of the game and continue installing the rest of the fuses to see if the test light comes on againg,if it does you have a drain,more researce,if you installe a digital multimeter,probably 20.00dlls.at the battery you could see exactly the volts dropping when you installe a fuse and the test light go on,as soon you find the drain you can pull out the fuse one night before if the car start right away you find the problem,good luck fellows and i hope these letters help somebody,sorry for my bad spelling,i like this forum,i am new here i just bought a 2001 infinity i30,i drove it for a week,now even my wife i do not let her drive it,what such a good car.BLESS ADOLFO FLORES
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Old 01-06-2010, 11:32 PM   #9
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Hey I've recently been having similar problems to many people posting on this thread. I was just given this link and it seems there are recalls on alternators. I am not sure if this source is 100% accurate but it seems the diodes were possibly damaged when made and this could cause failure in the alternators and electrical systems later in the cars life. My dad works for an Infinity dealer so I will get him to look into this for me tomorow and hopefully post a response later.

Here is the website I was on: http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Infiniti/I30/
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:22 PM   #10
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Did anybody ever find the source of the drain?
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:22 PM
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