Driver's Side Power Window Not Going Up
07-12-2008, 02:14 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 66
Driver's Side Power Window Not Going Up
Hey Guys. Haven't been able to roll up the Driver's side window for a few days now. I've gone in so far as buying a new switch, which works all of the window's but the driver's side. I hear a clicking when I press the button, but no movement. Anyone know what possibly could be the problem. I'm thinking motor? Can the motor/switch be tested? If taking the door panel out is required for further testing, anyone have a "how-to" on doing that? I'm synonymous with ruining a door panel anytime I've taken one apart. 
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
07-12-2008, 08:38 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Woodstock Georgia
Posts: 94
My passenger side window is getting awfully slow, I'm hoping I don't have the same problem. The door is really easy to get off. Remove all of the visible screws (2 i think) pop out the edges with a putty knife of flat blade and lift the whole thing up.
07-14-2008, 07:11 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
I consider myself to be the king of window issues. So far i have gone through 2 driver side window motors and am up to my 3rd now, havent put it in yet. I also have a pretty slow passenger side and both my rear windows fell down. So i think i am the guy u wanna be talking to.
Now, you could possible one of two or both issues. First one is, you here the click because the relay is triggered and the window motor is dead, aka no movement.
The second issue that it could be is what happened to both my rear windows in the same week. On the regulator, which is the track that guides the window up and down on, is a part that glides up and down it. On the part that glides is a cheap ****ty plastic piece that holds onto the cable which is connected to the top and bottom of the regulator on a pulley system which is what the motor connects to to move the window up and down. If Your window fell down, this very well may be your issue.
Unfortunately, the only way to troubleshoot this is to take your door panel off and start taking the motor assembly out. First thing, and easiest would be the motor. If the motor is dead you will know it when u take it off the regulator assembly. AKA, the motor wont move when u put juice to it. If you can hold the part of the motor that moves and u can stop it with your hand with any considerable amount of force, its dead as a doornail. If the motor is in good shape, it may be part of the regulator assembly. You may want to take that out and assess that as well.
These issues listed above are measures to be taken after you:
-Make sure no fuses are blown
-Check the grease on the regulator (sometimes friction is actually your greatest enemy)
-Look at it, make sure nothing is jamming it.
Taking the door panel off the first time is quite a challenge, and getting in is just as bad, but it's been done many times by myself, and every mechanic and a ****ton of org members.
To do that, you need to remove the screw in the door cup, and get the handle cup out. The door handle cup is a PITA tbh, you need to kinda pry a flathead screw driver in on the side to get the cup to come up, make sure to use a towel so u dont damage the leather. Next u have to deal with the christmas tree slips, these are a ***** too, you can use a special tool to pry them out so you dont ruin em, but i have always just pulled the panel, i have ruined a couple of them, but you can always buy new ones if they break. After you do this, you need to take the black panel off by the side view mirror and then pull the whole cover upwards and then out. These directions are meant as a guice and you need to find your own way of finessing it. You should be able to figure it out, just remember it is ok to use a lil muscle. Use your best judgement though.
IF anyone else can explain it better, please do so, i tried my best and i hope it helped. If the answers of removing the door panel are less than satisfactory in here, try the audio thread and just say you need to get the door panel off for a new speaker or something lol, these guys have done a ****load of speaker installs in the doors and def know how to take them off
.
Now, you could possible one of two or both issues. First one is, you here the click because the relay is triggered and the window motor is dead, aka no movement.
The second issue that it could be is what happened to both my rear windows in the same week. On the regulator, which is the track that guides the window up and down on, is a part that glides up and down it. On the part that glides is a cheap ****ty plastic piece that holds onto the cable which is connected to the top and bottom of the regulator on a pulley system which is what the motor connects to to move the window up and down. If Your window fell down, this very well may be your issue.
Unfortunately, the only way to troubleshoot this is to take your door panel off and start taking the motor assembly out. First thing, and easiest would be the motor. If the motor is dead you will know it when u take it off the regulator assembly. AKA, the motor wont move when u put juice to it. If you can hold the part of the motor that moves and u can stop it with your hand with any considerable amount of force, its dead as a doornail. If the motor is in good shape, it may be part of the regulator assembly. You may want to take that out and assess that as well.
These issues listed above are measures to be taken after you:
-Make sure no fuses are blown
-Check the grease on the regulator (sometimes friction is actually your greatest enemy)
-Look at it, make sure nothing is jamming it.
Taking the door panel off the first time is quite a challenge, and getting in is just as bad, but it's been done many times by myself, and every mechanic and a ****ton of org members.
To do that, you need to remove the screw in the door cup, and get the handle cup out. The door handle cup is a PITA tbh, you need to kinda pry a flathead screw driver in on the side to get the cup to come up, make sure to use a towel so u dont damage the leather. Next u have to deal with the christmas tree slips, these are a ***** too, you can use a special tool to pry them out so you dont ruin em, but i have always just pulled the panel, i have ruined a couple of them, but you can always buy new ones if they break. After you do this, you need to take the black panel off by the side view mirror and then pull the whole cover upwards and then out. These directions are meant as a guice and you need to find your own way of finessing it. You should be able to figure it out, just remember it is ok to use a lil muscle. Use your best judgement though.
IF anyone else can explain it better, please do so, i tried my best and i hope it helped. If the answers of removing the door panel are less than satisfactory in here, try the audio thread and just say you need to get the door panel off for a new speaker or something lol, these guys have done a ****load of speaker installs in the doors and def know how to take them off
.
07-14-2008, 10:57 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 66
Thank you!
Your explanation was great! At least you've given me somewhere to start and hopefully resolve the situation. I have one question though. Is it possible to manually raise the window? Assuming the regulator is still intact? Also, how does one test the motor? I have a non-contact voltage sensor as well as a voltage tester. Can I use either one of those to check the motor? Any idea what a motor runs? and how hard is it to replace it? or would it be more beneficial to just replace the whole regulator? Anyway, thanks again. If I get this fixed with your expertise, in My book, you Are the King of Window Issues!
Last edited by BlackI35; 07-14-2008 at 11:03 PM.
07-15-2008, 12:57 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
BlackI35 - good questions. Ill address each question below.
Q1. Is it possible to manually raise the window? Assuming the regulator is still intact?
A1. Well, i suppose if your door panel was off yes lol, but like a hand crank, no, unless u modified the system somehow with alot of hours. Believe it or not, i took the regulator and motor out and currently, the bottom of the window where it connects to the regulator is ziptied with about 5 zip ties on each window to the door so its immobile. Both of them kepy falling and duct tape or any tape to keep it up is out of the question. Issue is, its not water tight against the rubber weather stripping on the door.
Q2. Also, how does one test the motor?
A2. Well, when i test the motor i just take it out of the assembly and just leave it connected to see if it moves or not haha. You can try to use a voltmeter but if u take the motor out and leave it connected and it doesnt move its dead OR a fuse is blown, where u can check the fuse box or use ur volte meter to see if a charge is being sent through the motor harness.
Q3.Any idea what a motor runs? and how hard is it to replace it? or would it be more beneficial to just replace the whole regulator?
A3. Motors tend to run about 80 bux used depending on your year they may be new. Sometimes you can get em for 40 or 60 at a junk yard. Rebuilt is best if new isnt available. The motor can be a ***** to getat. Now you have an i35 so im not sure if they have changed anything in your door as far as motor mount location but the first time i took my motor out i did it *** BACKWARDS. Needless to say after 45 minutes or so and a bloody hand i was able to get it out. I put my hand int he door and with a right angle screwdriver unscrewed it. Wehn you go in your door, most likely you will see what i went through. ALAS though, smart ways ahead. The regulator mount in my car has like 7 bolts i believe. 2 on the top of the regulator bar and 2 on the bottom. 3 Bolts hold the regulator motor mount to the door and then the motor is connected to the regulator motor mount with 3 bolts. Remove the 3 bolts from the regulator motor mount so it isnt affixed to the door. You can manuver this piece because its got the cable system to move the window up and down connected to it (the cables connect to the top and bottom of the regulator bar). If you cant manuver it enough to unbolt the motor you can remove the regulator bar bolts on the bottom and top and this might give you some extra room. This should be enough guidance for you to figure out how to do it, its not too hardm just dont be afraid to get greasy, as well the regulator bar is greasy.
I bought 1 regulator/motor assembly replacement for my front door and havent installed it yet but it was about 80 bux from parts train and its from a brand called Replacement. I like it cause its the whole assembly and it was cheaper then purchasing them seperatly. It could be a crappy motor for all i know but i will find out soon enough when i get back to az in a month to install it.
Q1. Is it possible to manually raise the window? Assuming the regulator is still intact?
A1. Well, i suppose if your door panel was off yes lol, but like a hand crank, no, unless u modified the system somehow with alot of hours. Believe it or not, i took the regulator and motor out and currently, the bottom of the window where it connects to the regulator is ziptied with about 5 zip ties on each window to the door so its immobile. Both of them kepy falling and duct tape or any tape to keep it up is out of the question. Issue is, its not water tight against the rubber weather stripping on the door.
Q2. Also, how does one test the motor?
A2. Well, when i test the motor i just take it out of the assembly and just leave it connected to see if it moves or not haha. You can try to use a voltmeter but if u take the motor out and leave it connected and it doesnt move its dead OR a fuse is blown, where u can check the fuse box or use ur volte meter to see if a charge is being sent through the motor harness.
Q3.Any idea what a motor runs? and how hard is it to replace it? or would it be more beneficial to just replace the whole regulator?
A3. Motors tend to run about 80 bux used depending on your year they may be new. Sometimes you can get em for 40 or 60 at a junk yard. Rebuilt is best if new isnt available. The motor can be a ***** to getat. Now you have an i35 so im not sure if they have changed anything in your door as far as motor mount location but the first time i took my motor out i did it *** BACKWARDS. Needless to say after 45 minutes or so and a bloody hand i was able to get it out. I put my hand int he door and with a right angle screwdriver unscrewed it. Wehn you go in your door, most likely you will see what i went through. ALAS though, smart ways ahead. The regulator mount in my car has like 7 bolts i believe. 2 on the top of the regulator bar and 2 on the bottom. 3 Bolts hold the regulator motor mount to the door and then the motor is connected to the regulator motor mount with 3 bolts. Remove the 3 bolts from the regulator motor mount so it isnt affixed to the door. You can manuver this piece because its got the cable system to move the window up and down connected to it (the cables connect to the top and bottom of the regulator bar). If you cant manuver it enough to unbolt the motor you can remove the regulator bar bolts on the bottom and top and this might give you some extra room. This should be enough guidance for you to figure out how to do it, its not too hardm just dont be afraid to get greasy, as well the regulator bar is greasy.
I bought 1 regulator/motor assembly replacement for my front door and havent installed it yet but it was about 80 bux from parts train and its from a brand called Replacement. I like it cause its the whole assembly and it was cheaper then purchasing them seperatly. It could be a crappy motor for all i know but i will find out soon enough when i get back to az in a month to install it.
11-18-2011, 10:27 AM
#6
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 3
Maxima SE window motor
Follow the post above to remove the register. Remove the motor and "gear box". Under the round sheet metal cover there is a rubber shock drive device, looks like a star fish, which drives a splined rubber coupling. Mine was destroyed. This is the part which moves the window register. Remove the 3 Philips head screws and remove the motor. Put the register back. While your waiting for your new motor you can wind the window up and down with a 3/8 extension and ratchet!
When you take out and put back the glass be VERY careful of the two nylon clips which are bolted to the register. Break one and your doomed to buying a new window!
I'm in the process now and will post pictures when completed. It really is a simple job!
IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET JUST THE NYLON CLIPS PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
When you take out and put back the glass be VERY careful of the two nylon clips which are bolted to the register. Break one and your doomed to buying a new window!
I'm in the process now and will post pictures when completed. It really is a simple job!
IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET JUST THE NYLON CLIPS PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
12-28-2021, 11:58 AM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 1
2002 Maxima - Passenger Side Window Stuck Down
I can hear the click when I press the "up" switch on the passenger and driver door controls. I've taken apart the door panel and tried to manually lift the window up so I can detach it from the bottom in order to replace the motor (which I'm assuming is bad). Is there a trick I'm missing here? The window will not come up no matter how hard I pull up on it and since it won't come up, I can't access the two bolts on the bottom of the window. Please help me. TIA
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