MRACING

Seems like a big issue for these cars

jonescosmos

I did the pin 9 ground thing but the ABS light goes off completely as in it does not flash during the process and the SLIP light flashes so i never bothered counting, is it that the error codes are counted by the SLIP light flashes or the ABS light flashes?

jglaw

Way to resurrect the thread, if something is flashing I'd say that's your indicator. Just take it to a dealer or someone with the Consult-II computer to check the ABS codes if you can't do this method yourself.

maximariceboi

iTrader: (32)

damn...i just picked up a 5th gen not too long ago and have this problem....ugh..

BIGDADDYB

I had the same problem happen about a month ago. I have a 2001 Maxima SE 20thAnnivEd. I was driving down the highway and all 3 came on at the same time. I've spent hours trying to find out how to fix it on all different types of forums.

My mechanic had "Maxine" for a week and the computer read that the right rear abs sensor was shot but the left rear was reading 215 kmph. He checked wheel speed sensors, abs sensors, wires (had to pull my back seat out), refurbished computers brand new computers and nothing same thing. Cleared the codes and they popped on again. I've read everything from wheel speed sensors, abs sensors, wiring, computers, ignitor coils, computers to the alternator. I'm not spending $3.000 + to "POSSIBLY" fix the problem. One guy said that he changed his plugs and it fixed it. Enough is enough. I've got a buddy who's the service manager at a Nissan dealership here in Toronto, Canada. I'm going to take it to him in the next few weeks when he's got a spot open and I'll let you guys know what he says.

Sorry guys but it's just frustrating to know that somethings wrong with "Maxine" and there's no answer for her.

BIGDADDYB

Okay I have just received a call from my mechanic at a Nissan Dealership. His computer has diagnosed it as a failed ABS sensor. Which one you wont be able to tell as the wiring is in series. An authorized Nissan Dealership can tell you which one exactly. My mechanic tried and tried and had Maxine for 7 days and couldn't figure it out. His computer wouldn't read it properly, regardless of the expansion chips. When my mechanic (non nissan) looked at it he tested and tried everything and all abs sensors were fine.

pahanorlando

iTrader: (5)

Yeah. Sometimes dealership is the best place for solution. Especially if electronics are involved

tw557

I have all the abs, vdc and brake lights on the dash. they come on after about 20 feet. I was looking into the right rear TSB. I took the sensor off and looked in. I was expecting to see some teeth on the hub to trigger the sensor. No teeth, how is the sensor triggered. Thanks

Darkstonian

The sensor is electromagnetic. if you pull it, you will notice little strips of metal. once the wheel starts to spin it creates voltage on the sensor and it detects vehicle speed. If you have a little carb cleaner, you can wipe it off, and you'll see the metal strips on each side

Darkstonian

I had this problem on my '01 a year or so ago. I have the FSM, and you're actually supposed to ground pin 9 on the data link connector, and the slip light will blink the codes out for you. The FSM says pin 8, but it's incorrect. Here's a list of the codes and all that. The first digit is a short blink, and the second digit is a fast blink. The first number it will blink all the time is 12, followed by your trouble code.

Code No. (No. of LED flashes) -- Malfunctioning part Reference page

12 -- Self-diagnosis could not detect any malfunctions. —
21 -- Front right sensor (open-circuit) BR-62
22 -- Front right sensor (short-circuit) BR-62
25 -- Front left sensor (open-circuit) BR-62
26 -- Front left sensor (short-circuit) BR-62
31 -- Rear right sensor (open-circuit) BR-62
32 -- Rear right sensor (short-circuit) BR-62
35 -- Rear left sensor (open-circuit) BR-62
36 -- Rear left sensor (short-circuit) BR-62
41 -- Actuator front right outlet solenoid valve BR-65
42 -- Actuator front right inlet solenoid valve BR-65
45 -- Actuator front left outlet solenoid valve BR-65
46 -- Actuator front left inlet solenoid valve BR-65
51 -- Actuator rear right outlet solenoid valve BR-65
52 -- Actuator rear right inlet solenoid valve BR-65
55 -- Actuator rear left outlet solenoid valve BR-65
56 -- Actuator rear left inlet solenoid valve BR-65
57 -- Power supply (Low voltage) BR-70
61 -- Actuator motor or motor relay BR-68
63 -- Solenoid valve relay BR-65
71 -- Control unit BR-72

ABS warning lamp stays on when
ignition switch is turned on. --
Control unit power supply circuit
Warning lamp bulb circuit
Control unit or control unit connector
Solenoid valve relay stuck
Power supply for solenoid valve relay coil
BR-79

ABS warning lamp stays on, during
self-diagnosis. --
Control unit —

ABS warning lamp does not come on
when ignition switch is turned on. --
Fuse, warning lamp bulb or warning lamp circuit
Control unit
BR-77

ABS warning lamp does not come on
during self-diagnosis.
Control unit —


For me the right rear ABS sensor was bad. Dealer wanted $125. Got one from the junk yard for $10 bucks, cleaned it up real good, put it in in 10 mins, and I was good to go. Still working over a year later. If I can do it, you will never catch me at the dealership. Highway robbery along wit a kick in the ballz

v.slon90

so i basically ground pin 9 on the obd 2 and turn on ignition and watch the lights blink?

Darkstonian

Exactly

fossill

Well, I've got the same issue. A number of these have turned out to be the RR ABS, so I guess that's worth a shot...

My trouble is - these lights all came on the day I got the car back from getting something else fixed. The details are here but essentially, I had a short under the drivers seat, in the power seat switch harness. So that was replaced, got it home, went for a ride later and these three lights came on. They've stayed on since. Maybe the sensor IS bad but it's awfully coincidental that they came on after having an electrical problem fixed. Was hoping to find something more related to what I had done.

fossill

Just a follow up on my problem - it IS the RR ABS sensor! Seems to be a very common problem. If anybody else has this type of problem, get that sensor checked. Good luck.

4GRookie

iTrader: (3)

I have tried the self diagnosis to no avail. One other symptom my Dad's I35 has is that the speedo comes and goes as it pleases. We had a friend that's a Nissan mechanic look at it briefly and said that on this particular vehicle does not have a stand alone vehicle speed sensor, but rather gets speed from wheel sensors. But without pinpointing the correct wheel sensor we are not sure which one to replace. Anyone else have speedo die intermittently? Anyone have a clue as to which, if not all, wheel sensors communicate speed to speedo?

zee4112

I had same problem last month turned out to be camshaft position sensor, I replaced it but check engine light is still on

FallRiverMax31

NEED SOME ADVICE! I had to replace a Bearing on my front right wheel of my 01' Maxima. When the mechanic was finished, i started the car and the ABS, TCS & SLIP lights were all on. The mechanic said he may have accidently torched the censor on that front right wheel. I was so heated I just left before he could touch anything else. Now is it a quick n easy fix? How much would the part cost?

Any Input would be appreciated!

Jay, Fall River MA

biskin

well i had the same problem , the person who changed my brake calipers, damaged my left abs sensor harness and all three lights came on . the abs sensor is like 141.00 dollars . i had the nissan service dept install it with labor ,it came too 417.00 dollars.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

On my 01 i30, only the tcs and slip lights are on. I will do the diagnostic and report back.

88MaximaSE

the speedometer stops working randomly and then works again every time i drive the car. anyone experience this same problem and get it resolved?

wwilkerson

My 2000 Maxima is having the same problem-
Did you happen to get it fixed or anything? If so, what did they say was wrong with it? and was is for a reasonable price because I'm a poor college kid just starting out and i can't afford anything terribly expensive, lol.

BrickcityInfiniti11

Ok so i recently took my car to the shop to get the axles changed and the next day the same lights turned on so this doesn't seem too far fetched..

When i was there waiting he was hammering the crap out of something. so maybe something went wrong when he was doing this..

But there is no way in hell i'm paying for damages that he did!

At first I thought he installed the incorrect axle without LSD. but they were the right axles. Ill take your word for it and tell him to see if its the ABS sensor harness.

mp66226

Bought a 02 I35 between Christmas and New Years. It's been very dry in KC this winter, little snow or rain. However, the first time it rained and I was driving home from work, all 3 lights came on. Stopped, turned the car off and restarted it and they went away. Had our first snow this last week on Monday. First day of the slush/snow, no problem. Second day, the highways were just slightly wet, and the 3 lights came on again just while I was driving. Next day, when I started the car in the am to go to work, lights on, went off as I applied the brakes at the end of the street, stayed off for about 5 miles and then came back on. Pretty much stayed on thru Thursday. Thursday night, did the code check by grounding pin 9, got a code of 22 indicating right front sensor short. I took out the sensor, cleaned it up with some MAF sensor cleaner, but it back in and it was still on, stayed on Thursday night as I drove it some more. Friday, started it up and lights were still on. Washed the car on Friday morning and then drove it about 25 miles and noticed that sometime during the drive the lights went off. Haven't come back on. Wires don't look frayed anywhere. Stumped as to where the short might be happening. Ordered a new sensor($99 from Advanced Autoparts) and will install that when it show up but am concerned as to whether or not that will address the issue.

It might be interesting to note as well a couple of other things. First, I'm having a low speed grinding/clicking in that brake area when applying the brakes at 10 mph and down, several times per rotation (like about 5 per rotation similar to the number of lug nuts). Can't see anything wrong, the pads are good, but the rotor does have some grooves in it is very loose after the wheel is removed, kind of hangs there. The caliper appears to be new and I found a note in the PO's records indicating that a mechanic had found the caliper installed "backward" (not sure how you would do that) and they fixed that. I bought a new rotor and will put it on Monday night to see if that helps. Pads are in good shape, look nearly new.

Also, as I was inspecting it for something that might be making the noise, I noticed that on the back side of the steering knuckle, there appears to be a small "chunk" maybe 1/4-3/8" wide by 2" long missing from the very inside edge of the knuckle, allows you to see the very inside edge of the ABS speed sensor "ring" from there, you can see a little salt corrosion on that very inner edge of the ring.

Don't know if all of this together triggers anybody's thoughts on where to look for the short and/or if I need to be looking somewhere for a new knuckle? Or where the "crunch/click" is coming from?

markjc

Just my two cents:

My coworker worked as a technician for Infiniti for a few years, before and after the I35 was still being produced. Last time it snowed here in Jersey, I was on my way to work and purposely sliding around and testing the ABS/VDC in my '02 Sport.. since I had just gotten the car and wanted to see how well the VDC worked as a whole. I guess the front wheels just couldn't grip enough going up my hill (bald summer tires lol) and eventually the ABS, VDC, and SLIP lights all went on. After that yeah, no ABS, no VDC, nothing was working. Got to work and told my coworker I thought I broke something and he said that the car does that intentionally when the traction system has been "overloaded", as in it's working so damn hard, modulating the brakes, cutting power, etc. and not getting anywhere, so it just takes a break altogether.

After that day, I had no more lights and they never came on again. ABS works fine, too.

However, my lights only came on in a situation where traction was virtually zero and I was still being a **** and pinning the throttle to the floor... for those of you whose lights have illuminated during more normal conditions, probably a sensor or computer related issue I guess.

RichD

I was just informed by my local dealer (LI, NY) that the reason my 3 lights (VDC, Brakes, Slip) are on is due to low brake fluid. I can't wait to see how this works when I take it away this evening!! They tried to sell me new front brakes as the cure. I also have the low tire pressure light going on. They told me the tires were low even though I had checked them manually a few days ago. Looks like a return to the dealership for sure. I will do the brakes myself if needed. I will follow up.

88MaximaSE

I had my brake fluid flushed and that did not fix the problem. What fixed the problem for me was to replace the ABS controller. I got the part cheap on amazon and had a friend replace it. It is not easy to do, but once I have the new controller in there, all lights were gone and speedometer and odometer worked once again. I tried all kind of other stuff like replacing spped sensors, transmission sensors, brake fluid flush, checking all grounding and cleaning connections.

This is what it looks like:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/m/mIAV...biijZg/140.jpg

BKchev

I have a 2001 Maxima, and I have had my ABS, SLIP, and traction off lights on for a couple of years. My wife will be driving the car now so I wanted to fix the problem. I used the self diagnostic technique and found it to be the left rear sensor "open". I ordered the sensor and replaced it, but the connector was different for some reason, so I just used the old connector and cut the wires and re-attached them to make it work. Now the slip light only comes on after hitting about 20km/h and the other 2 lights still stay on.

I used the self diagnostic technique again, but now it is saying left rear sensor "short", does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?

Thanks

galrol

how do you "ground" pin 9?

galrol

Can anyone tell me how to ground and short in this post???

Shannon429girl

2002 Nissan Maxima SE I have been tracking these issues for several weeks cam shaft sensor rear was my issue with the misfiring but the TCS, slip and service engine lights are still a mystery. I have replaced several sensors, it was time to change spark plugs and found oil in one of the towers than replaced the valve cover fyi the seals are non serviceable but the auto part stores will try to sell them to you, replaced intake gasket one coil and still tracking down I will let us know I should be reaching the end here soon hopefully.

Shay4468

Hi guys! About a month ago my slip light, check engine, tcs off came on and my car turned off. After 5 mins it turns on fine. This keeps happening over and over and no one can tell me a straight answer. I went to professionals and they couldn’t tell me anything. I need help guys. I have 2008 Maxima SL

chuey55

ABS, Slip, & TCS lights all on
Codes present:

Code 1131 - ABS unit
Code 1107 - Passenger Front ABS sensor

Mailed off my ABS module w/o pump to airbags.com for a module repair.
It only cost $115(incl shipping).

It is officially fixed! I hope this helps 5th generation owners out there!

sb001

May help to tell others where that module is and how to remove/ reinstall it.

chuey55

Good idea.

ABS Module/Pump(also called actuator) are located under the air filter housing. You have to remove the whole housing to access it. Easy removal. A few bolts(10mm & 8mm for throttle area).
You can actually remove the module(black box portion) from the pump(they are connected together). It is connected by 6 small star bolts. There are a couple of them hard to access. I just removed the whole unit(module/pump). It was easier that way for me. You have to bleed the brakes if you go this route since you'll be disconnecting the brake lines(6 total) with a 10mm wrench. No big deal to bleed the brakes if you have a neighbor/buddy to help ya. All you need is to remove two nuts on each side of the ABS unit, remove brake lines(6), and unplug connector. Done. Installation is reverse.

This problem is common in these cars and it's a cheaper fix than what the dealership will tell you.

PaulBungard

================================================== ===

This Sensor At RockAuto.Com $60.00 Right Rear ABS Speed Sensor
BECK/ARNLEY0844772 {#479002Y060}

Jared Kyle Meade

Camshaft, crankshaft sensors there are 3 of them. That will fix it from leaving you stranded or stalling out of you

Jared Kyle Meade

Crankshaft, and both camshafts sensors need repl

aced

damonsessions

wow i have the same problem i took it to the stealership and they told me my abs actuator was fried and that i needed a new one the part cost $1500 bucks i saw a used one on ebay for between 100 and 200 hundred bucks found a local mechanic to do it for around 200-300 bucks just trying to make sure its the right part so all of my warning lights can go off or i won't be able to get the car inspected or will i?

Kate_Maxi

The dealership told me this was a ABS actuator that was failing

Frederick 13

This is just my opinion, but if you can't find any issues with the abs or tcl slip lights staying on. I would say the dash cluster is probably bad.