Chester86

iTrader: (1)

Hi folks,

I have a 2000 Infiniti I30 with 150k . . .with regular updated maintenance. I recently experienced extremely rough idling and in the past few days, stalling. My first thought was the ignition coil packs, which has been a known problem for these engines. I did the minor testing and bought a replacement coil packs. Put them in, anticipating new life . . and realized nothing changed. I'm thinking its either the IACV or the MAF. If anyone has any advice or possibly similar scenarios . .please do share. This forum has been great to me in the past and I am confident the folks on the boards will help guide me through this one. Thanks everyone and I look forward to the responses!!

-Chester86

Chester86

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to mention, I noticed when I drive the car. . it has lost its power. Replacing the coil pack was my initial solution, but I guess not.

mikecmidd

iTrader: (4)

Hmm i think I'm having similar problems I'm really looking forward to some helpful responses to, does the car jerk when you stop at lights when you first start driving? or when you put it in reverse occasionally ???

I'm really looking forward to some helpful responses to.

silencecalls

iTrader: (2)

clean TB, MAF and check O2 sensor, are there any codes?

bigbangtech

I have a 2000 i30 with 90K miles and had bad pinging, and engine stumbling when cold. I replaced the following stuff, and nothing made a difference:

Thermostats
Knock Sensor
Coils
Plug
Coolant Temp Sensor
MAF Sensor(bought Cheap ebay unit $50 made it stall intermittently)

Then this helped:
MAF Sensor (OEM Replacement) - pinging went away almost completely - stumbling stayed.

Then the almost miracle:
I played with some scan tools and paid attention to the o2 sensors (both upstream sensors). With the scan tool, the Bank 2/Sensor 1 appeared to react a lot slower than the Bank 1/Sensor 1 during testing, the waveform also appeared more rounded, not as sharp. Replaced the Bank 2/Sensor 1 and things improved significantly. Now the scanner showed the new sensor reacting more quickly than the "good" side I didn't replace. Replaced Bank 1/Sensor 1 and it's like a brand new car for me. Power is back, pinging is gone, city fuel economy is back up.

O2 Sensor 1 / Bank 2 (Near radiator, before cat) - replaced with Bosch factory replacement. Idle got noticeably better, pinging completely gone

O2 Sensor 1 / Bank 1 (Rear of engine, before cat) - replaced with Bosch factory replacement - Idle perfect, ZERO ping, city MPG increased from 12 to 16MPG

Change the front upstream o2 sensor with the bosch direct fit $60 at autozone/amazon, don't waste time with the universal kit where you have to splice wires, and you will notice a big difference.

Then replace the rear upstream sensor $80.

I wasted so much time replacing the other stuff (especially knock sensor), I'm kicking myself. The o2 sensors are so important for the engine running well it's ridiculous. As the sensors get old, they get slow and the computer has a very hard time reacting since it is reacting to what happened a long time ago. This causes the damn stumbling and occasional stall. It's also probably the reason why the $50 ebay MAF sensor made things worse. - can't keep up with the delayed output from the old o2 sensors.

tsi1991awd

New to the board, but I have an A33 I30 and just threw the code for IACV. Was having irratic idle and drivability issues. Change out the IACV and then go to Infiniti or Nissan and have them use the Consult to reprogram the idle and ask to update the ECM with the newest software.

Chester86

iTrader: (1)

bigbangtech,

Good to hear. I replaced my MAF and found that it was broken and full of dirt. I was more than happy to change it out. Now, after a week the idling issues started to occur again and it threw me a P0139 code which indicates "Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)". Which part number is that for a oem replacement? Thanks!

strong85man

I recently bought '99 I30 I am having same problem you are referring to. What was your solution? I changed fuel filter, spark plugs, MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body. Nothing seems to work. it jerks on idle, slow speed and get worse on reverse.

stardiva

Hi, this is the closest topic I could find that comes close to the troubles that we are having.
A couple months ago our car, 1998 Infiniti I30, started idling rough and wanting to stall out at slow speeds. we took it to Autozone and had them check the codes because the SES light was on.
We got codes for 1 of the O2 sensors, the knock sensor, and the MAF. We have since changed all of these sensors, including both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors.
problem is, after we changed the last sensor last night, it appeared to be running fine and back to normal again, but then this afternoon it started idling really rough again, but hasn't gotten as bad as it was.
it seems like every time we have changed one of these sensors, it would act fine but then after awhile it would start idling rough again.
My main question is, is this normal and likely to continue until the car cycles and the codes are cleared?
could it be something else, and if so, where should we start to troubleshoot this problem?

thanks!

Joeker82

iTrader: (2)

Just curious. Did you reset the ecu after the O2 sensor replacement? By this, I mean disconnecting the negative side of the battery for 15 minutes....then reconnecting. If not, it could possibly still have the bad readings stored.

stardiva

no, we did not try that, somebody told us that disconnecting the battery would not clear it. Thank you!

Caticorn

Have you replaced your spark plug coils? On the 99, replacing them is not a matter of if, just when.

It's a heavy, irregular jerk feeling at idle and low RPMs, but not when accelerating?

gknuckles

iTrader: (1)

I was having the same issues on my 99 I30 and I found that it was a bad coil so I replaced the bad one and it seems to be running fine but it is still throwing a code for "ignition signal primary". This is another issue however. My friend had similar rough idle and rough driving issues and he replaced the MAf with oem replacement and it completely took care of his problem. All this talk about O2 sensors, I think I am going to replace mine along with figuring out my coil problems. Also does anyone know if unplugging the negative battery wire for 15 minutes resets the codes? Does this really work or would you need to take it to the dealer to have it reset and update the ECM like TSI1991awd said?

Caticorn

For me, replacing the coils fixed the misfires and replacing the MAF fixed the loping/stalling.

Be sure to clean your MAF before replacing it, in case it's just dirty. Save you $$$

My O2 sensor is flat-lining and triggering the check engine light, but that doesn't (afaik) effect performance the way the coils and MAF do.

The ECU has its own battery to retain some settings without the car battery, so unplugging it shouldn't reset the codes.

gknuckles

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I unplugged my battery today while I was putting in a new radiator and it didn't reset anything. So I stopped by advanced auto to try and have them reset everything, but the guy told me it was illegal for them to reset it and that he could lose his job if he did? Not sure if that's true but whatever. My car is running fine so I think i'll let it go.

Caticorn

I wouldn't be surprised if it were illegal, because a check engine light fails state inspection in some states, so there wouldn't be anything stopping someone from resetting their ecu to pass inspection instead of fixing an emission problem.

Rsprince89

heard of this problem before in this car, very common

djohnson730

MY PROBLEM WITH MY 2001 INFINITI I30 IS THAT IT KEEPS CUTTIN OFF EVERYTIME I DRIVE IT ANYWHERE..I CAN GO DOWN THE ROAD FOR A ILE AND STOP THEN IT SHUTS OFF. I START IT RITE BACK UP AND IT SHUTS OFF AGAIN. CANT SEEM TO FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM. I CHANGED O2 SENSORS, THROTLE POSITION SENSORS, MAF SENSOR AND STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM. A FRIEND OF MINE SAID MY ECU MIGHT BE GOING BAD.ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!! EMAIL ME AT d.johnson730@yahoo.com

AznRyan

iTrader: (1)

Is it throwing any codes?

Everette Vince

Guys i have an 2002 i35 and a year a coil went out ant i replaced it and every thing was running great then the bank 2 cat started rattling. then friday i was stopped at a red light and the engine just turns off and found out that the cat had clogged and got all of them gutted. Sounds good but the car stalled on my way home and then over heated what u think is wrong. Oh and the cdes that pulled up were P1217 P0720 P1574 P0021 P0732 P0340 i need help please replyhttp://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/mad.gifhttp://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/bawling.gifhttp://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/confused.gifhttp://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/frown.gif

CPTInfiniti

I am having this same exact issue. Has anyone found a resolution to this?

Ive already replaced the front CAT (back one is on order), Spark plugs, and Coils... Not sure what else I have to do to get this thing fixed without paying an arm and a leg

tmab1234

I had the same problem with the rough idle when I bought my 99 infiniti I30 at 176000 miles. I worked with a guy who was a teacher at a automotive school and specialized in Nissan he told me to try cleaning an emmissions tube that is located on the driver side of the engine on the back and that worked for me for a long time but now I get an intermittent rough idle pretty much only when my A/C is running im guessing it the ignition coils unless anyone else has any better ideas. There are no codes and I have done all the mounts except the rear and have done the spark plugs and I used seafoam. It performs well just the idle is a little rough at times even for the mileage.

tmab1234

If there are any evap codes or emmissions codes I would try cleaning the tube near the beginning side or of the intake plenum.

soninjr

hmmm, I new here but cant we just take it to a Nissan dealer and have them check it? Although they may rack up the price I just want my car to stop shaking.

Moo Moo1234

mine does this exact same thing