I35 Loses Power/ TCS/ABS lights come on
10-16-2012, 10:56 PM
#1
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I35 Loses Power/ TCS/ABS lights come on
Get in the car today and notice the Service Engine light is on. First time I have seen it in this car. 150k miles 2002 I35. Car drives fine all day. On the way home from work after about 10 miles boom...abs/tcs lights both come on, engine looses all power, speedo drops to zero. I pull over, shut the car off for a second. Start it back up put it in drive, it does it again. Pull over let it idle for about 5 minutes. Put it in drive, it drives fine for about a mile, then it does it again. So I limp it home this way. Seems like the longer I let it sit, the longer it will go before I run into this problem. Eventually the BRAKE and battery lights would come on with the abs/tcs lights. So this was all earlier tonight.
From the little bit of research I have done I have found people had problems with alternator, battery terminals, throttle body, throttle position sensor, cam/crank sensors..... I know the first reply I'll get is "get the code that's tripping the service engine light". Well I live way out in the country, so if I can get it to where its safe enough to limp to the closest autozone, I'll do that.
From the little bit of research I have done I have found people had problems with alternator, battery terminals, throttle body, throttle position sensor, cam/crank sensors..... I know the first reply I'll get is "get the code that's tripping the service engine light". Well I live way out in the country, so if I can get it to where its safe enough to limp to the closest autozone, I'll do that.
10-17-2012, 11:04 AM
#4
Get in the car today and notice the Service Engine light is on. First time I have seen it in this car. 150k miles 2002 I35. Car drives fine all day. On the way home from work after about 10 miles boom...abs/tcs lights both come on, engine looses all power, speedo drops to zero. I pull over, shut the car off for a second. Start it back up put it in drive, it does it again. Pull over let it idle for about 5 minutes. Put it in drive, it drives fine for about a mile, then it does it again. So I limp it home this way. Seems like the longer I let it sit, the longer it will go before I run into this problem. Eventually the BRAKE and battery lights would come on with the abs/tcs lights. So this was all earlier tonight.
From the little bit of research I have done I have found people had problems with alternator, battery terminals, throttle body, throttle position sensor, cam/crank sensors..... I know the first reply I'll get is "get the code that's tripping the service engine light". Well I live way out in the country, so if I can get it to where its safe enough to limp to the closest autozone, I'll do that.
From the little bit of research I have done I have found people had problems with alternator, battery terminals, throttle body, throttle position sensor, cam/crank sensors..... I know the first reply I'll get is "get the code that's tripping the service engine light". Well I live way out in the country, so if I can get it to where its safe enough to limp to the closest autozone, I'll do that.
Your issues could or could not be related, you will know more once you get that SES code. Google and see if there is a way to get the code without an OBDII scan tool. Buying one seems like a better option for you as well...check out amazon for some. Also there is a thread on the org on what guys are getting as far as OBDII scan tools.
Last edited by BigLou55; 10-17-2012 at 11:06 AM.
10-17-2012, 04:42 PM
#5
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Thanks for the insight. I usually don't sign up for a forum until I have a problem with something, this seems like a pretty legit forum. Some can be very dormant!
One thing I wanted to add was...the abs/tcs and battery lights only came on when I hit the accelerator. If I held the gas down it would rev once then would be unresponsive. It would idle fine. So I could go down the road by pressing and releasing the gas pedal, that was a rough ride home last night.
One thing I wanted to add was...the abs/tcs and battery lights only came on when I hit the accelerator. If I held the gas down it would rev once then would be unresponsive. It would idle fine. So I could go down the road by pressing and releasing the gas pedal, that was a rough ride home last night.
10-18-2012, 05:37 AM
#7
Have you had your alternator tested?
Pretty much all the alternators for maxima's(probably all older nissans) are remanufactured(not sure about other makes), even at the dealer. I read a lot of complaints about Autozone alternators. There was a guy on the org not too long ago that found a used(not remanufactured) 2007 murano alternator on ebay for about 50 bucks I think and it worked perfectly for him. I would go through tests before I start spending all that money if I were you.
Pretty much all the alternators for maxima's(probably all older nissans) are remanufactured(not sure about other makes), even at the dealer. I read a lot of complaints about Autozone alternators. There was a guy on the org not too long ago that found a used(not remanufactured) 2007 murano alternator on ebay for about 50 bucks I think and it worked perfectly for him. I would go through tests before I start spending all that money if I were you.
10-19-2012, 02:00 PM
#8
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Right now I am debating between buying a code scanner, or just tearing the alternator out and taking it to get tested. I really wish this car was drivable, or that I had a trailer to haul it with...ugh!! Love my country spread, but man is it a pain in the *** being way out there.
10-19-2012, 05:27 PM
#9
I don't think you will get an SES light for a bad alternator, however a bad alternator can make things go a lil crazy on your car and possibly cause an SES for something else when nothing is really wrong. Removing the alternator takes a little time to do from my research (roughly a hour or so if its your first time). Maybe while getting a scanner a multimeter wouldn't be a bad idea either. It could allow you to perform your own testing at home and save the removal of a alternator just in case its not your issue.
Either way you have some research to do and then make a decision. Good luck
Either way you have some research to do and then make a decision. Good luck
12-02-2013, 05:43 PM
#10
Bumping this because I am having the same problem it's the alternator.
But wait, my lights are fine and the battery is charged? How can It be the alty?
Simple. There are more parts to an alternator than just the charging. It is very possible for an alternator to OVERCHARGE.
Ok, but why would that cause an issue? I mean some extra volts can't be bad
A few? Like 15? 16? Meh... But when a voltage regulator is shot on an Alternator volts can spike up there pretty high like about 18-20, like mine is currently doing. Which if the car doesn't protect itself, some expensive equipment is going to catch fire..... The car usually protects itself when it senses overvoltage by killing off components. I am not sure on 3rd gens but 4th gens w/ ABS will notice the same issue w/ ABS light coming on while other wacky electronic things are going on.
If the OP pulled his ABS codes it'd be for Excessive voltage, which is why my ABS light is on randomly.
The loss of power occurs simply because the ECU needs a speed signal from the ABS computer via the CAN network, no ABS signal, ecu goes derp car must be fckd, lemme just idle here.
-This should be an I35 or Maxima W/ TCS only problem, non TCS models should not experience this because of the ABS unit not being on the CAN network.
It took me about 30 mins of driving on the road to figure out what it was, but my initial suspicions were correct when confirmed by my Snap-On Solus @ work. Voltage was spiking scarily high when revved quickly above 2k.
Cool, thanks for the help, how can I make sure that it's the alternator? This isn't cheap or quick to replace
Simple, get a voltmeter
and check the voltage of the battery while it's Off, Running, @ high rpm, Revving quickly, it shouldn't jump around much between 13-15 volts. Any voltmeter will work, even the cheap $7 analog one from walmart, that I leave in my car... because race-car of course.
Ohhh ok, why not just fix the voltage regulator? How do I get to it?
I am going to be posting a how to soon on replacing the voltage regulator because Autozone/Adv./Oriely's alternators suck, I'm on autozone alternator #10 for the fourth gen, 3 were dead in the box, and it's just flat out getting embarassing now.
Sweet dude
But wait, my lights are fine and the battery is charged? How can It be the alty?
Simple. There are more parts to an alternator than just the charging. It is very possible for an alternator to OVERCHARGE.
Ok, but why would that cause an issue? I mean some extra volts can't be bad
A few? Like 15? 16? Meh... But when a voltage regulator is shot on an Alternator volts can spike up there pretty high like about 18-20, like mine is currently doing. Which if the car doesn't protect itself, some expensive equipment is going to catch fire..... The car usually protects itself when it senses overvoltage by killing off components. I am not sure on 3rd gens but 4th gens w/ ABS will notice the same issue w/ ABS light coming on while other wacky electronic things are going on.
If the OP pulled his ABS codes it'd be for Excessive voltage, which is why my ABS light is on randomly.
The loss of power occurs simply because the ECU needs a speed signal from the ABS computer via the CAN network, no ABS signal, ecu goes derp car must be fckd, lemme just idle here.
-This should be an I35 or Maxima W/ TCS only problem, non TCS models should not experience this because of the ABS unit not being on the CAN network.
It took me about 30 mins of driving on the road to figure out what it was, but my initial suspicions were correct when confirmed by my Snap-On Solus @ work. Voltage was spiking scarily high when revved quickly above 2k.
Cool, thanks for the help, how can I make sure that it's the alternator? This isn't cheap or quick to replace
Simple, get a voltmeter
and check the voltage of the battery while it's Off, Running, @ high rpm, Revving quickly, it shouldn't jump around much between 13-15 volts. Any voltmeter will work, even the cheap $7 analog one from walmart, that I leave in my car... because race-car of course.Ohhh ok, why not just fix the voltage regulator? How do I get to it?
I am going to be posting a how to soon on replacing the voltage regulator because Autozone/Adv./Oriely's alternators suck, I'm on autozone alternator #10 for the fourth gen, 3 were dead in the box, and it's just flat out getting embarassing now.
Sweet dude
Last edited by aackshun; 12-02-2013 at 05:54 PM.
07-24-2014, 06:41 PM
#11
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power loss at high speeds
My 02 GLE is doing the same thing. It will lose power only when on the highway coin around 70 mph. Alt checks out at 14.12 at idle. Any ideas and did replacing. The voltage regulator fix it
07-31-2014, 04:05 PM
#12
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We have a 2002 i35 sport with 140k miles that just started the same thing.
Grounded out pin 9 and got a error code 57 undervoltage error. ABS/Slip/TCS lights flash and cuts power out above 1200rpm. If you leave the car off it can drive for a mile or two just fine and then the lights come on and cut power.
This morning the battery had a 2.5amp draw on it that killed it (never any problems with charging etc before this). Tried pulling all the main fuses and it continues so it must be from somewhere else.
Anybody have any ideas?
Grounded out pin 9 and got a error code 57 undervoltage error. ABS/Slip/TCS lights flash and cuts power out above 1200rpm. If you leave the car off it can drive for a mile or two just fine and then the lights come on and cut power.
This morning the battery had a 2.5amp draw on it that killed it (never any problems with charging etc before this). Tried pulling all the main fuses and it continues so it must be from somewhere else.
Anybody have any ideas?
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