cruce91

ok, lets start from the beginning. i bought this car as a quick project. 150k, looks clean, clean oil, etc. I picked it up dirt cheap. Back story is.. the car ran but skipped, then was parked for three months, then will crank over , start up and run for 2 seconds and choke out (with or without giving it throttle) so, i pinched off the return line for the fuel after the fuel rail and jacked up the pressure. fired up and ran. but not perfect. no skipping, no missing, just ran but like i said not super strong. so i did the following thinkning it was just low fuel pressure.

-new fuel pump and filter
-replaced fuel pulp
-installed real time fuel pressure gauge with a t inline before the fuel rail (at 35-40psi)
-repalced all spark plugs with proper gaps
-took all injectors off and individually cleaned, actuated and made sure they were spraying
-checked resistance and fireing of each coil pack and replaced 2 with new ones.
-checked signal to injectors at injector and ecu pin out
-check signal to coil packs and checked each one while cranking and runnign with spark plug tester(good spark)
-checked ecu pinout of all power and all within range.
-drained and replaced all fuel in tank with fresh 93 octane fuel.
-check the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator for leaks (no leaks)
-checked the power to fuel pump and relay(all in perfect order)
-checked ecu codes obd2- p0100, p1320, p0105
-cleaned MAF sensor, checked power source and noted good voltage
-took apart echaust and tried running with no cat resistance ( still no change)
-checked the egr valve and its working and not stuck open.
-checked for vacuum leaks while running with hand over intake by using sparay carb cleaner near intake plenum and hoses.....

SO, IT WILL RUN FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS IF YOU INJECT APROX 20CC"S OF GASOLINE DIRECTLY INTO THE INTAKE> WILL REV UP AND SOUNDS BEAUTIFULL, THEN BOGS OUT AND DIES. it would apear to be a "lean condition" but i cant figure out why. its my understanding that the MAF seonsor being falty could cause something like this, BUT i was also under the impression that simply unplugging the MAF would reset the ecu to stock settings and allow it to actually run>>? am i wrong?

****ALSO WILL RUN IF YOU PLACE YOUR HAND ALMOST COMPLETLY OVER INTAKE (RESTRICT FLOW)



OTHER THEN THAT.. WONT STAY RUNNING MORE THEN 2 SECONDS.

ANY IDEA!!??!!!??

I recrited (and paid for) a nissan mechanic on "justanswer.com" to help and he walked through alot of troubleshooting steps with me and he is stumped.

before anyone tells me to just go look it up and search. please trust me when i say i have and did. thats why i am here. I have not found anyone with this same issue.

PH98I30

Start with the simplest thing. Clean both of you crankshaft position sensors with MAF cleaner and check the wiring. They get a lot of abuse where they are and get crusty dirty and sometimes damaged wires.

cruce91

I did remove and clean both of them. The one in top and on bottom. Unless there is another one I'm unaware of.

PH98I30

There are only 2 crank sensors. You could repost this in the Maxima 4th Gen section but they really hate double posts. Most Maxima guys don't come over here. If you do repost there, expect to be flamed but you might get an answer.

cruce91

I'm not going to be bashed because I need legitimate help on a complicated situation. There are other forums. I am respectful, no reason others can't be. If I don't get any help without reposting then I will just use another website .

Canadian_I35

Not sure about the 3.0 but my 3.5 gave me a similar problem, it was a camshaft sensor. Bank B which is closest to the radiator. Like i said not sure if yours has 2, but after switching out the camshaft sensor the car runs like a champ.

QueensMAX

First thing i would do is remove ecu and open the cover to visually inspect for damage. The iac on these cars shorts out and damages the ecu. Last one i repaired had the same issue you are having.