Please Read before posting: Nitrous FAQ's
#1
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
Nitrous FAQ's
I'll start by posting links to a few threads that are very helpful along with credit for each... and it's Nitrous not NOS or nawz...
Article by: mtrai760
Article by: Jime
Article by: sx7r
Article by: Mardigrasmax
Please feel free to add USEFUL information, and post questions elsewhere. We can get a FAQ started here. No PW's please, thank you.
Article by: mtrai760
Article by: Jime
Article by: sx7r
Article by: Mardigrasmax
Please feel free to add USEFUL information, and post questions elsewhere. We can get a FAQ started here. No PW's please, thank you.
#2
Here's a short explination on how Nitrous works courtesty of howstuffworks.com
#3
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
Q: Which nitrous kit can I use, and which is the best?
A: It's really up to you. Nitrous express, Zex, and NOS all make kits that have proven reliable on many members cars. Some prefer one over the other, but they are all good kits.
A: It's really up to you. Nitrous express, Zex, and NOS all make kits that have proven reliable on many members cars. Some prefer one over the other, but they are all good kits.
#4
Installation Instructions for NOS Kit #5124
http://64.252.156.63/nos/Matt_NOS_Instructions.pdf
NB: Please Right Click and Save.. Viewing the PDF will bog down my server
*** Adobe Acrobat Reader Download ***
its a free download and is required to view this installation instruction file
http://64.252.156.63/nos/Matt_NOS_Instructions.pdf
NB: Please Right Click and Save.. Viewing the PDF will bog down my server
*** Adobe Acrobat Reader Download ***
its a free download and is required to view this installation instruction file
#7
DIY Nitrous for Budget minded folks
build your own hardware kit:
http://nitrous.info
build your own multistage controller:
http://www.kwantlen.bc.ca/electech/F...al-Project.pdf
http://nitrous.info
build your own multistage controller:
http://www.kwantlen.bc.ca/electech/F...al-Project.pdf
#8
Nitrous Information from NissanPerformanceMag.com - June 2003
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/june03/ask_sarah/
The article is pretty thorough, and seems to take the conservative approach (as if that's a bad thing).
-hype
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/june03/ask_sarah/
The article is pretty thorough, and seems to take the conservative approach (as if that's a bad thing).
-hype
#10
Dont you see how the nozzles are different in the setups?
In a wet kit, the fuel and nitrous mix together 50/50 in a nozzle then enters the throttle body premixed for best results. No tuning necessary.
The dry kit has only a nitrous line connected to that nozzle. Letting nitrous in to the throttle body and bumping up the fuel pressure and the injectors supply the fuel for the nitrous and mixes in the combustion chamber.
Obviously, the wet kit will mix better.
In a wet kit, the fuel and nitrous mix together 50/50 in a nozzle then enters the throttle body premixed for best results. No tuning necessary.
The dry kit has only a nitrous line connected to that nozzle. Letting nitrous in to the throttle body and bumping up the fuel pressure and the injectors supply the fuel for the nitrous and mixes in the combustion chamber.
Obviously, the wet kit will mix better.
#11
Originally posted by KiLLeR2002se
Dont you see how the nozzles are different in the setups?
In a wet kit, the fuel and nitrous mix together 50/50 in a nozzle then enters the throttle body premixed for best results. No tuning necessary.
The dry kit has only a nitrous line connected to that nozzle. Letting nitrous in to the throttle body and bumping up the fuel pressure and the injectors supply the fuel for the nitrous and mixes in the combustion chamber.
Obviously, the wet kit will mix better.
Dont you see how the nozzles are different in the setups?
In a wet kit, the fuel and nitrous mix together 50/50 in a nozzle then enters the throttle body premixed for best results. No tuning necessary.
The dry kit has only a nitrous line connected to that nozzle. Letting nitrous in to the throttle body and bumping up the fuel pressure and the injectors supply the fuel for the nitrous and mixes in the combustion chamber.
Obviously, the wet kit will mix better.
Go with whatever setup suits you best, but be sure to take a look at the whole picture before you purchase.
-hype
#12
I agree with you my post is strongly biased, but for an obvious reason. Sure you can get a good mixture with a NOS system, but how much tuning will it take you to achieve that? I just belive a premixed shot is much better then letting it mix in the cumbustion chamber.
The best way to distribute nitrous evenly is obviously a DP setup. But the lowest shot is a 150 for dp.
The best way to distribute nitrous evenly is obviously a DP setup. But the lowest shot is a 150 for dp.
#16
Ok sooooooo let's look at this in terms of engine safety over the long haul. If I have set up blank and use it once in a while for say 4 or 5 years, what are the chances, per system that I will send a totally fork my engine?
#17
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
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Any system with proper tuning and maintenance (for both the car and the nitrous system) should last many many years. This is assuming of course that your engine is in proper condition, that you use the proper safety devices, etc etc. It's all going to depend on you, there is no definitive answer.
Originally Posted by CyMax
Ok sooooooo let's look at this in terms of engine safety over the long haul. If I have set up blank and use it once in a while for say 4 or 5 years, what are the chances, per system that I will send a totally fork my engine?
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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Zex makes an electronic tps sensing switch that works with our dropping voltage tps. Simply wire it in, push a button, watch the lights, floor the car, watch the lights again, and the voltage curve is learned, no more ghetto wot micro-switch!
#19
Automatic Transmission + NITROUS
It seems during all my searches I haven't really found anything that answered questions on wether it's safe or not to spray during when the transmission was shifting? Basically like, once the tree falls and hits green and you're off, would it be safe (at WOT, of course) to keep the "button" pressed and have the nitrous sprayed through-out the entire 12-13 seconds during your race, through every shift?
Also- I've read a bit up ont he concept of "nitrous backfire." I know this is caused either when nitrous is pooled up in the intake/manifold and spark hits it and BOOM, or when too much nitrous/fuel is injected without the required amount of air (below 1,000RPM's) but what about everyone that uses nitrous from off the line? How are they immune to this concept? Or is this "nitrous backfire" all a matter of wether or not you're at WOT?
Also- I've read a bit up ont he concept of "nitrous backfire." I know this is caused either when nitrous is pooled up in the intake/manifold and spark hits it and BOOM, or when too much nitrous/fuel is injected without the required amount of air (below 1,000RPM's) but what about everyone that uses nitrous from off the line? How are they immune to this concept? Or is this "nitrous backfire" all a matter of wether or not you're at WOT?
#20
'Trynna' is not a word
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle Area, WA
Posts: 7,081
On both a manual and auto setup you have a WOT switch, or wide open throttle, that only allows nitrous to spray when the throttle is all the way open. What that means is on a manual, unless you are trying to destroy your transmission by power shifting, you will not be spraying between shifts. On an automatic, it is okay to spray between shifts, however I recommend you have a window switch, just in case your transmission fails, you won't also take out the motor. The window switch is recommended for the manual as well.
On nitrous backfires, it can happen at any time. The best thing to do is to have a wideband A/F meter to show if you are running to rich or lean. Many of them can be setup to shut off your nitrous if you exceed certain perameters. Its usually not a matter of too much of both pooling, but of the fuel pooling. This is primarily an issue with wet kits, however if you keep everything setup and running properly, as well as have the requisite A/F gauge (wideband, not the autometer light show) You should be fine.
On nitrous backfires, it can happen at any time. The best thing to do is to have a wideband A/F meter to show if you are running to rich or lean. Many of them can be setup to shut off your nitrous if you exceed certain perameters. Its usually not a matter of too much of both pooling, but of the fuel pooling. This is primarily an issue with wet kits, however if you keep everything setup and running properly, as well as have the requisite A/F gauge (wideband, not the autometer light show) You should be fine.
#21
On both a manual and auto setup you have a WOT switch, or wide open throttle, that only allows nitrous to spray when the throttle is all the way open. What that means is on a manual, unless you are trying to destroy your transmission by power shifting, you will not be spraying between shifts. On an automatic, it is okay to spray between shifts, however I recommend you have a window switch, just in case your transmission fails, you won't also take out the motor. The window switch is recommended for the manual as well.
On nitrous backfires, it can happen at any time. The best thing to do is to have a wideband A/F meter to show if you are running to rich or lean. Many of them can be setup to shut off your nitrous if you exceed certain perameters. Its usually not a matter of too much of both pooling, but of the fuel pooling. This is primarily an issue with wet kits, however if you keep everything setup and running properly, as well as have the requisite A/F gauge (wideband, not the autometer light show) You should be fine.
On nitrous backfires, it can happen at any time. The best thing to do is to have a wideband A/F meter to show if you are running to rich or lean. Many of them can be setup to shut off your nitrous if you exceed certain perameters. Its usually not a matter of too much of both pooling, but of the fuel pooling. This is primarily an issue with wet kits, however if you keep everything setup and running properly, as well as have the requisite A/F gauge (wideband, not the autometer light show) You should be fine.
#22
Do you have a purge? That gradual feeling could be air/stale nitrous left in the line that has to be pushed through before it gets the fresh nitrous into the intake. But that's only if you don't have a purge. And trust me, a 100 shot is a NIGHT & DAY difference compared to a 75 shot. Sure it's only 25 more HP, but man oh man.. it hits so much harder.
#23
Do you have a purge? That gradual feeling could be air/stale nitrous left in the line that has to be pushed through before it gets the fresh nitrous into the intake. But that's only if you don't have a purge. And trust me, a 100 shot is a NIGHT & DAY difference compared to a 75 shot. Sure it's only 25 more HP, but man oh man.. it hits so much harder.
#24
i've got a 5th gen auto, and im looking at a dyno tuned wet kit, now im a nitrous noob, but i was thinking of a 100 shot... my question is instead of a safc, can i use a greddy e-manage, and is there anything i need to change with a 100 shot??? i am already changing injectors, anything else? thanks... oh and also with any kit, does it also comes with everything ready for installation?
#25
i've got a 5th gen auto, and im looking at a dyno tuned wet kit, now im a nitrous noob, but i was thinking of a 100 shot... my question is instead of a safc, can i use a greddy e-manage, and is there anything i need to change with a 100 shot??? i am already changing injectors, anything else? thanks... oh and also with any kit, does it also comes with everything ready for installation?
#26
" And trust me, a 100 shot is a NIGHT & DAY difference compared to a 75 shot. Sure it's only 25 more HP, but man oh man.. it hits so much harder."
Are NOS shots measured by HP? I've never looked into them, but I always figured it was volume
Are NOS shots measured by HP? I've never looked into them, but I always figured it was volume
#27
I am looking at running between 60-75 shot nitrous (dry), and had a few questions regarding my 01 Maxima handling it.
The car is a 5 speed, and has about 107k on it, which is quite a bit, but the car has been well taken care of, maintenance wise.
I am interested in the ZEX dry kit, and am wondering, does the "Nitrous Management Unit" have an FPR inside it, to bump up fuel pressure? And will my stock injectors be able to support upto 75hp jetting?
Also, how would other internal components be able to support that much nitrous? And would I need a wideband O2 and something to tune with, or would that purple box be able to handle fuel enrichment adequately?
The car is a 5 speed, and has about 107k on it, which is quite a bit, but the car has been well taken care of, maintenance wise.
I am interested in the ZEX dry kit, and am wondering, does the "Nitrous Management Unit" have an FPR inside it, to bump up fuel pressure? And will my stock injectors be able to support upto 75hp jetting?
Also, how would other internal components be able to support that much nitrous? And would I need a wideband O2 and something to tune with, or would that purple box be able to handle fuel enrichment adequately?
Last edited by MoncefA33; 06-29-2008 at 10:45 AM.
#28
you kno it kinda weird actually i have been wantin to make a post on this i jus got my nitrous installed(75 shot zex on a 07) and it shot in maybe a boost leak and blew out my egr valve(power valve) and destroyed my throttle body and threw two codes one being and idle range and tps sensor and im getting a slip and tcs and brake also...omeone help me well actually us!
#29
you kno it kinda weird actually i have been wantin to make a post on this i jus got my nitrous installed(75 shot zex on a 07) and it shot in maybe a boost leak and blew out my egr valve(power valve) and destroyed my throttle body and threw two codes one being and idle range and tps sensor and im getting a slip and tcs and brake also...omeone help me well actually us!
#31
Yea, make sure they installed the proper size jets, and make sure the solenoids are fine and not stuck open like the fuel, just look over everything, its not normal to have a backfire, unless you hit the rev limiter, or sprayed it too early in RPM, try not spraying below 3k rpm. 1st gear maybe, since it rev's fast, but as a precaution
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