**ATTN JIME: where is your drop resistor mod write up with WOT switch?(org no search)
05-20-2005, 01:33 PM
#81
Originally Posted by evil_spork
how will this affect launch? or will it only (maybe) give a chirp going 1->2?
also, with the increased speed of the shift and whatnot, would a tranny cooler be advisable or is it unneeded?(dont wanna turn my tranny into a BBQ)
also, with the increased speed of the shift and whatnot, would a tranny cooler be advisable or is it unneeded?(dont wanna turn my tranny into a BBQ)
05-20-2005, 02:00 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by evil_spork
out of sheer lazyness.. how much is a cooler *installed* run?
Uh......the same exact price that it costs *uninstalled*.
https://maxima.org/modules.php?name=TMC
05-20-2005, 08:05 PM
#85
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Well I tried disconnecting it. It felt like a extra kick whenever it shifted. But when I plugged it back in the tranny shifts very very smooth. This is very weird because everyone knows the 1-2 shift on the altima is always a little harsh.
05-20-2005, 10:21 PM
#86
I have done the DR mod and can definately feel a difference. I used Monster speaker wire for the run to my dash. It is plenty thick and provides very good conductivity.
Plus check the super clean install.
Plus check the super clean install.
05-21-2005, 01:32 AM
#87
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Now do you guys manually shift your auto???? I noticed I lost .4 in the 1/4 mile when I manually shifted it. In NA I lost .3 by manually shifting the tranny.
05-23-2005, 07:38 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by Brushedpewter
Well I tried disconnecting it. It felt like a extra kick whenever it shifted. But when I plugged it back in the tranny shifts very very smooth. This is very weird because everyone knows the 1-2 shift on the altima is always a little harsh.
What the heck are you talking about? 
05-23-2005, 07:48 AM
#91
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Originally Posted by Jime
Mine stays in D.
Really Jim? You have never experimented, huh? I did once with my G-Tech and I think it helped. I did it one night alternating each run (D vs. manually shifting) and then averaged the odd runs and even runs. I would want to perform more tests though before I made a final conclusion but I think shifting helped at least .1s. I would think it would help, in theory. Because don't our transmissions shift themselves around 6,000? If we could hold it to 6,500, I would assume we would get more power longer. At least with a supercharger I feel this way. At low RPMs, the charger can't even be felt. Then as the RPMS build, the pull becomes exponential. Right when you are getting all stoked.....the car shifts and the process starts all over. I figured if I can extend the boost a little longer, it would help. But I am too scared of pushing it into neutral with my foot on the gas. I think I would rather have a program that raises our shift points. So what is your reasoning for not manually shifting?
05-23-2005, 08:38 AM
#92
Originally Posted by ptatohed
Really Jim? You have never experimented, huh? I did once with my G-Tech and I think it helped. I did it one night alternating each run (D vs. manually shifting) and then averaged the odd runs and even runs. I would want to perform more tests though before I made a final conclusion but I think shifting helped at least .1s. I would think it would help, in theory. Because don't our transmissions shift themselves around 6,000? If we could hold it to 6,500, I would assume we would get more power longer. At least with a supercharger I feel this way. At low RPMs, the charger can't even be felt. Then as the RPMS build, the pull becomes exponential. Right when you are getting all stoked.....the car shifts and the process starts all over. I figured if I can extend the boost a little longer, it would help. But I am too scared of pushing it into neutral with my foot on the gas. I think I would rather have a program that raises our shift points. So what is your reasoning for not manually shifting?
With nitrous you get more power at low rpm vs a Turbo/SC where it gets better at higher rpm. If I could I would shift it sooner with spray.
05-23-2005, 09:41 AM
#93
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Originally Posted by ptatohed
What the heck are you talking about?
05-23-2005, 09:54 AM
#95
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Originally Posted by ptatohed
You were talking about Altimas and something about getting a smoother shift after plugging it back in. ?? You lost me.
05-24-2005, 03:36 AM
#97
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Originally Posted by aussie983
That is the whole point of unplugging the DR!!!. You get firmer shifts and thats explains the kick that you feel.
05-26-2005, 10:47 PM
#99
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wot switch????
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
05-27-2005, 09:34 AM
#100
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Originally Posted by akadiablo
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
Rudey, a good way to make friends around here is by calling us all stupid. Keep it up and you'll be liked in no time.
Jime, would Rudey's suggestion work?
06-13-2005, 11:37 AM
#101
Originally Posted by Jime
1.
3. Yes, but its not a just a cheap substitute. It basically a free substitute that shifts even faster and saves your transmission even more than a VB Mod.
3. Yes, but its not a just a cheap substitute. It basically a free substitute that shifts even faster and saves your transmission even more than a VB Mod.
P.S i got the 745 line pressure code once but hasnt come back yet other than that sweeet.
06-13-2005, 11:41 AM
#102
Originally Posted by akadiablo
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
06-14-2005, 10:59 AM
#103
Originally Posted by akadiablo
why is it you all are installing a wot switch since our cars have them already?? just splice into the white wire on the tps... done.. none of that buying a switch and making a bracket for it.. come on guys I know all of you are not that stupid!!!!!
2. A nitrous switch is N/O and the DR switch is N/C. So in theory we should be able to eliminate our nitrous N/O switch and use it as well for the DR Mod.
3. However there is one little problem and that is the designed function of the Throttle Position Switch (which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor circuit).
4. This is a quote from the FSM. "Consists of a wide open throttle switch and a closed throttle position switch. The wide open throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the full throttle position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
5. So what does all this mean? It means that the N/O circuit cannot be used for nitrous because it closes at approx 1/2 throttle and you don't want to start spraying at 1/2 throttle.
The N/C circuit cannot be used for the DR Mod either because the circuit is opened as soon as you step on the throttle, which means the DR would disconnect at any throttle opening not WOT as it should be. Notice that the FSM states that "the switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed". The reverse of this is that as soon as the throttle valve is not fully closed the circuit is broken which means it will be disconnected for part throttle shifts which is exactly what we don't want.
6. Sorry akadiablo but you are wrong.
BTW I have an old intake and throttle body which I used to confirm what the FSM stated by using a multimeter to check when the switches opened and closed.
06-14-2005, 03:03 PM
#104
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How does the WOT Switch work? When the throttle body things push down on the tab it breaks the circuit?
06-14-2005, 03:11 PM
#106
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OOOH NOICE. I hope this doesn't screw up my auto tranny if I end up doing this...
06-14-2005, 03:17 PM
#107
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
OOOH NOICE. I hope this doesn't screw up my auto tranny if I end up doing this...
06-14-2005, 06:17 PM
#108
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I'm going to try this when I finish my exhaust and have some time. All I need is that radio shack switch and some wire?
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
Thanks, Aaron
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
Thanks, Aaron
06-14-2005, 09:44 PM
#109
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Originally Posted by Jime
1. Yes our cars do have a WOT switch. One half is N/O (normally open) and the other half is N/C (normally closed).
2. A nitrous switch is N/O and the DR switch is N/C. So in theory we should be able to eliminate our nitrous N/O switch and use it as well for the DR Mod.
3. However there is one little problem and that is the designed function of the Throttle Position Switch (which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor circuit).
4. This is a quote from the FSM. "Consists of a wide open throttle switch and a closed throttle position switch. The wide open throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the full throttle position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
5. So what does all this mean? It means that the N/O circuit cannot be used for nitrous because it closes at approx 1/2 throttle and you don't want to start spraying at 1/2 throttle.
The N/C circuit cannot be used for the DR Mod either because the circuit is opened as soon as you step on the throttle, which means the DR would disconnect at any throttle opening not WOT as it should be. Notice that the FSM states that "the switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed". The reverse of this is that as soon as the throttle valve is not fully closed the circuit is broken which means it will be disconnected for part throttle shifts which is exactly what we don't want.
6. Sorry akadiablo but you are wrong.
BTW I have an old intake and throttle body which I used to confirm what the FSM stated by using a multimeter to check when the switches opened and closed.
2. A nitrous switch is N/O and the DR switch is N/C. So in theory we should be able to eliminate our nitrous N/O switch and use it as well for the DR Mod.
3. However there is one little problem and that is the designed function of the Throttle Position Switch (which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor circuit).
4. This is a quote from the FSM. "Consists of a wide open throttle switch and a closed throttle position switch. The wide open throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle is open at least 1/2 of the full throttle position. The closed throttle position switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed."
5. So what does all this mean? It means that the N/O circuit cannot be used for nitrous because it closes at approx 1/2 throttle and you don't want to start spraying at 1/2 throttle.
The N/C circuit cannot be used for the DR Mod either because the circuit is opened as soon as you step on the throttle, which means the DR would disconnect at any throttle opening not WOT as it should be. Notice that the FSM states that "the switch sends a signal to the TCM when the throttle valve is fully closed". The reverse of this is that as soon as the throttle valve is not fully closed the circuit is broken which means it will be disconnected for part throttle shifts which is exactly what we don't want.
6. Sorry akadiablo but you are wrong.
BTW I have an old intake and throttle body which I used to confirm what the FSM stated by using a multimeter to check when the switches opened and closed.
06-15-2005, 03:37 AM
#110
Originally Posted by akadiablo
i am not wrong, i am using it now!!!!!!!!! it does not work at half throttle.. I works only at full throttle.. you might have tested a bad tps.......
This switch is used to send a signal to the TCM when the throttle is fully closed and as soon as it is partially open the circuit breaks which means it will disconnect the drop resistor at any part throttle opening.
Another factor is that the drop resistor circuit is high current which is proven by the size of the resistor and even if the TPS switch did work it would probably burn up the contact points eventually requiring you to replace the TPS switch. It was designed for signal current only not high current.
Regardless how can you be running it now when you have a manual transmission they don't even have a drop resistor?
06-15-2005, 03:38 AM
#111
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
I'm going to try this when I finish my exhaust and have some time. All I need is that radio shack switch and some wire?
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
Thanks, Aaron
Oh one more question. Can you explain how the hard shifts feel. Like does the whole car jerk? I have no idea what I'm getting into, but this seems neat.
Thanks, Aaron
06-15-2005, 07:45 AM
#113
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Originally Posted by Black Maxima
Thanks for your help C MAX. So then it's a faster shift?
I have not done it yet but what you can do (what I plan to do) Black Max is simply drive to an empty road where you have pleanty of runway, get out of your car and disconnect the DR manually, get back in the car and do a quick full throttle 0-60 sprint, pull over, plug it back in. That way you know what it feels like before you do the mod or cut any wires. Just make sure you are full throttle as Jime recommends not being at full line pressure at less than wot.
06-15-2005, 07:53 AM
#114
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
Thanks for your help C MAX. So then it's a faster shift?
06-15-2005, 08:16 AM
#115
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Cool, do you have a 5-Spd or an Auto? I thought you could only do this mod with an Auto...?
06-15-2005, 08:17 AM
#116
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Originally Posted by ptatohed
I have not done it yet but what you can do (what I plan to do) Black Max is simply drive to an empty road where you have pleanty of runway, get out of your car and disconnect the DR manually, get back in the car and do a quick full throttle 0-60 sprint, pull over, plug it back in. That way you know what it feels like before you do the mod or cut any wires. Just make sure you are full throttle as Jime recommends not being at full line pressure at less than wot.
06-15-2005, 08:32 AM
#118
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Ok, thanks for all your help. I'm going to disconnect the plug for a little run when I get my exhaust done this week.
06-16-2005, 04:05 PM
#119
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Originally Posted by C MAX
thats with the vb mod theres always a jerk into next gear. if you use the wot switch with the drop mod there is no jerk what so ever. i got my micro switch from radio shack also they stock them.
C Max, when you say 'micro switch', you mean the normally closed WOT switch, correct? Could you provide a pic and/or Radio Shack model number? Thanks.
06-17-2005, 03:29 AM
#120
Originally Posted by ptatohed
C Max, when you say 'micro switch', you mean the normally closed WOT switch, correct? Could you provide a pic and/or Radio Shack model number? Thanks.