Something I'm thinking about doing...
10-30-2010, 06:50 PM
#43
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Some more elbow spray..
I did install the complete elbow spray stage. Here are some pix.
Before purge line was installed:
Front plugs after some street spraying. 91 octane - looks weird.
Purge outlet.
Before purge line was installed:
Front plugs after some street spraying. 91 octane - looks weird.
Purge outlet.
10-31-2010, 02:53 PM
#47
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I was hoping someone would ask.... when I install the direct-port stage(s), that is where the distribution blocks and solenoids will mount. Six nozzles require 12 hard lines, 12 jets, 2 6-port distribution blocks, and three solenoids - and the feed hoses.
Expanding to 2 stages means doubling everything except the purge solenoid. Since I intend to be able to remove the UIM with nitrous intact, I want everything to mount somewhere on the UIM. It will take some trial and error to get everything to fit, since there is only about 1/2" hood clearance at the UIM.
Just tuning a stage with the required NOS jets, say changing the fuel jets up one step, will cost $60. Having a cross section of different jets sizes will be ...more.
Some days I wish I had a Chevy...
Expanding to 2 stages means doubling everything except the purge solenoid. Since I intend to be able to remove the UIM with nitrous intact, I want everything to mount somewhere on the UIM. It will take some trial and error to get everything to fit, since there is only about 1/2" hood clearance at the UIM.
Just tuning a stage with the required NOS jets, say changing the fuel jets up one step, will cost $60. Having a cross section of different jets sizes will be ...more.
Some days I wish I had a Chevy...
10-31-2010, 04:32 PM
#49
Wow!! 
Lots of progress!
And I'm glad you bumped this up so I could get a chance to see Jime's calculations for N/F and Meth.
But I might have to make some alterations since I'm running a 3gph nozzle at 250PSI. I just recently resumed tuning via jet for the nitrous and have the A/F in the mid-11s. Buddy of mine thinks on meth that 11.9-12.3 should be fine but I'm keeping it safe for the time being. Might up to a 5gph nozzle and start running it leaner. Meth FTMFW!
Also spark plugs look interesting. But as long as there isn't any spotting on the center electrode piece then that's fine. A/F ring looks kind of rich. I can't see the timing mark, but I'm guessing that it's in a "good" range? Only thing I'm concerned is the ground strap is way white. Might be the flash though. And I don't know if it's the camera or what.. but is the spark plug in the 6th slot disintegrating?
Also! I'm following in your foot steps and upgrading to -6AN lines/fittings! Sure it might be overkill for a 150 shot but I just want to keep the nitrous pressure up for as long as possible.
Lots of progress!And I'm glad you bumped this up so I could get a chance to see Jime's calculations for N/F and Meth.
But I might have to make some alterations since I'm running a 3gph nozzle at 250PSI. I just recently resumed tuning via jet for the nitrous and have the A/F in the mid-11s. Buddy of mine thinks on meth that 11.9-12.3 should be fine but I'm keeping it safe for the time being. Might up to a 5gph nozzle and start running it leaner. Meth FTMFW! Also spark plugs look interesting. But as long as there isn't any spotting on the center electrode piece then that's fine. A/F ring looks kind of rich. I can't see the timing mark, but I'm guessing that it's in a "good" range? Only thing I'm concerned is the ground strap is way white. Might be the flash though. And I don't know if it's the camera or what.. but is the spark plug in the 6th slot disintegrating?
Also! I'm following in your foot steps and upgrading to -6AN lines/fittings!
Sure it might be overkill for a 150 shot but I just want to keep the nitrous pressure up for as long as possible.
Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; 10-31-2010 at 04:35 PM.
10-31-2010, 07:25 PM
#50
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Wow!! Lots of progress!
And I'm glad you bumped this up so I could get a chance to see Jime's calculations for N/F and Meth. But I might have to make some alterations since I'm running a 3gph nozzle at 250PSI. I just recently resumed tuning via jet for the nitrous and have the A/F in the mid-11s. Buddy of mine thinks on meth that 11.9-12.3 should be fine but I'm keeping it safe for the time being. Might up to a 5gph nozzle and start running it leaner. Meth FTMFW!
Also spark plugs look interesting. But as long as there isn't any spotting on the center electrode piece then that's fine. A/F ring looks kind of rich. I can't see the timing mark, but I'm guessing that it's in a "good" range? Only thing I'm concerned is the ground strap is way white. Might be the flash though. And I don't know if it's the camera or what.. but is the spark plug in the 6th slot disintegrating?
Also! I'm following in your foot steps and upgrading to -6AN lines/fittings! Sure it might be overkill for a 150 shot but I just want to keep the nitrous pressure up for as long as possible.
Lots of progress!And I'm glad you bumped this up so I could get a chance to see Jime's calculations for N/F and Meth.
But I might have to make some alterations since I'm running a 3gph nozzle at 250PSI. I just recently resumed tuning via jet for the nitrous and have the A/F in the mid-11s. Buddy of mine thinks on meth that 11.9-12.3 should be fine but I'm keeping it safe for the time being. Might up to a 5gph nozzle and start running it leaner. Meth FTMFW! Also spark plugs look interesting. But as long as there isn't any spotting on the center electrode piece then that's fine. A/F ring looks kind of rich. I can't see the timing mark, but I'm guessing that it's in a "good" range? Only thing I'm concerned is the ground strap is way white. Might be the flash though. And I don't know if it's the camera or what.. but is the spark plug in the 6th slot disintegrating?
Also! I'm following in your foot steps and upgrading to -6AN lines/fittings!
Sure it might be overkill for a 150 shot but I just want to keep the nitrous pressure up for as long as possible.Two direct-port stages with methanol is still the goal.
Those plugs are new, 1 step colder, and run with pump 91 octane - there is no damage on them, but all ground straps show the white fuzzy stuff and there is no heat ring on the ground - this looks wrong to me - maybe it's crappy pump gas.
The -6AN lines made a difference at the top end for me - the car pulled harder at the top than before - plus you get a more impressive purge plume with the larger line.
10-31-2010, 08:04 PM
#51
The only day left on the schedule for KID is the turkey drags. After that, the season is over.
I will be there for the turkey drags trying to hit 12s.
11-01-2010, 09:08 AM
#52
I don't know anything about spraying water/meth, or how that works with nitrous. Figuring out the A/F could be interesting, plus I'm planning on doing nitrous with E98 instead of race fuel, to get a feel for it. If it works, then methanol. I stayed around 12:1 with the old 175-shot setup. I'll start there.
Two direct-port stages with methanol is still the goal.
Those plugs are new, 1 step colder, and run with pump 91 octane - there is no damage on them, but all ground straps show the white fuzzy stuff and there is no heat ring on the ground - this looks wrong to me - maybe it's crappy pump gas.
The -6AN lines made a difference at the top end for me - the car pulled harder at the top than before - plus you get a more impressive purge plume with the larger line.
Two direct-port stages with methanol is still the goal.
Those plugs are new, 1 step colder, and run with pump 91 octane - there is no damage on them, but all ground straps show the white fuzzy stuff and there is no heat ring on the ground - this looks wrong to me - maybe it's crappy pump gas.
The -6AN lines made a difference at the top end for me - the car pulled harder at the top than before - plus you get a more impressive purge plume with the larger line.
But trust me! Meth is awesome! I love it!
Plugs look fine other then the ground straps. Check the center white porcelain and ensure there isn't any black spotting. If there's no detonation, you're fine. The ground mark should usually be around the middle of where it bends over. But since you've cut down the ground that may no longer be the case. The thing I'm worried about is that typically the color of the ground strap determines whether or not the plug is too cold or too hot for the setup. The lighter the metal the hotter it's running. But the white could also be from the nitrous. I noticed a similar occurrence on the very tip of my ground strap after spraying. Where is your timing set at? I don't know if it's oil or whatever but I noticed a little brown spotting on the far left plug. That might be an indication of detonation. Need better pics next time! Lol. But from my own lack of knowledge I would say take it down one degree and run it again.
Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; 11-01-2010 at 09:32 AM.
11-01-2010, 07:41 PM
#53
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I see the Turkey Drags are Nov. 11-13. Hummm...
http://www.importfaceoff.net/
Gurlz!
11-01-2010, 07:50 PM
#54
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E98 is way out of my league.
But trust me! Meth is awesome! I love it!
Plugs look fine other then the ground straps. Check the center white porcelain and ensure there isn't any black spotting. If there's no detonation, you're fine. The ground mark should usually be around the middle of where it bends over. But since you've cut down the ground that may no longer be the case. The thing I'm worried about is that typically the color of the ground strap determines whether or not the plug is too cold or too hot for the setup. The lighter the metal the hotter it's running. But the white could also be from the nitrous. I noticed a similar occurrence on the very tip of my ground strap after spraying. Where is your timing set at? I don't know if it's oil or whatever but I noticed a little brown spotting on the far left plug. That might be an indication of detonation. Need better pics next time! Lol. But from my own lack of knowledge I would say take it down one degree and run it again.
But trust me! Meth is awesome! I love it!
Plugs look fine other then the ground straps. Check the center white porcelain and ensure there isn't any black spotting. If there's no detonation, you're fine. The ground mark should usually be around the middle of where it bends over. But since you've cut down the ground that may no longer be the case. The thing I'm worried about is that typically the color of the ground strap determines whether or not the plug is too cold or too hot for the setup. The lighter the metal the hotter it's running. But the white could also be from the nitrous. I noticed a similar occurrence on the very tip of my ground strap after spraying. Where is your timing set at? I don't know if it's oil or whatever but I noticed a little brown spotting on the far left plug. That might be an indication of detonation. Need better pics next time! Lol. But from my own lack of knowledge I would say take it down one degree and run it again.
At the moment, I'm still using the stock ECU, but my Greddy EU is here in the box and the wiring is about 1/2 finished. I've had fuzzy plugs twice before, when using Sunoco 104 I bought at a track. That stuff made yellow fuzzy stuff on the ground straps! VP Racing 109 burns very clean, so I'll go back to it.
Lots to do,,,,
11-02-2010, 09:25 AM
#56
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Oh yeah, a 2-Qt junior dragster fuel cell with Walbro 255lph HP pump and Aeromotive FPR is the plan. It will fit once I move the radiator overflow tank. Haven't bought the tank yet - the rest is in the garage.
11-02-2010, 01:21 PM
#57
11-02-2010, 05:52 PM
#58
He has the idea!
Look here for the schedule. They'll have the 2011 schedule up around New Years.
I see the Turkey Drags are Nov. 11-13. Hummm...
http://www.importfaceoff.net/
Gurlz!
I see the Turkey Drags are Nov. 11-13. Hummm...
http://www.importfaceoff.net/
Gurlz!
We can show people what maximas can do.
Well, I am good at passing teh gas !!!
11-02-2010, 06:24 PM
#60
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11-02-2010, 06:35 PM
#61
I was thinking of watching you, instead, if I'm free that weekend. I'm not going to track the car until I get some issues resolved, so I don't break something big. Right now, just N/A, the motor gets to fuel-cut so quick that it pounds on the transmission until it shifts. I set the ShiftFast to 6000 and that's not low enough to complete a shift before fuel-cut.
That sucks about the tranny. Maybe try setting the controller really low and see if it even makes a difference. Like 4,000rpm.
11-03-2010, 08:13 AM
#62
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I don't think the problem is so much what RPM the tranny is told to shift at, but how long it takes for the shift to start and complete. Once the engine reaches over 4500 it hits fuel-cut almost immediately - at least it seems that way - I'm usually just hanging on at that point. Untuned, this engine has no low-end power - with a LSA of 104*, I'm not surprised. This one was intended to live at the high end of the tach. The solution that I see is installing my EU and extending the rev limit to 8K and getting a fully-built transmission installed. Then a NA dyno so I know what I have.
11-03-2010, 09:17 AM
#63
But I likes to watch..... I don't think the problem is so much what RPM the tranny is told to shift at, but how long it takes for the shift to start and complete. Once the engine reaches over 4500 it hits fuel-cut almost immediately - at least it seems that way - I'm usually just hanging on at that point. Untuned, this engine has no low-end power - with a LSA of 104*, I'm not surprised. This one was intended to live at the high end of the tach.
The solution that I see is installing my EU and extending the rev limit to 8K and getting a fully-built transmission installed. Then a NA dyno so I know what I have.
I don't think the problem is so much what RPM the tranny is told to shift at, but how long it takes for the shift to start and complete. Once the engine reaches over 4500 it hits fuel-cut almost immediately - at least it seems that way - I'm usually just hanging on at that point. Untuned, this engine has no low-end power - with a LSA of 104*, I'm not surprised. This one was intended to live at the high end of the tach. The solution that I see is installing my EU and extending the rev limit to 8K and getting a fully-built transmission installed. Then a NA dyno so I know what I have.
What parts are you going to use to build the trans?
11-03-2010, 11:39 AM
#64
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I'm going to ship a transmission core to IPT (unless Level 10 makes me a better deal) in New Jersey for a complete race build. That will happen over this winter.
11-03-2010, 02:22 PM
#65
The Cosworth valve train is rated to 10,000 RPM and the rest of the engine will handle 8K - but until I can dyno, I have no idea what the power curve will look like. Probably weird.....
I'm going to ship a transmission core to IPT (unless Level 10 makes me a better deal) in New Jersey for a complete race build. That will happen over this winter.
I'm going to ship a transmission core to IPT (unless Level 10 makes me a better deal) in New Jersey for a complete race build. That will happen over this winter.
11-03-2010, 04:59 PM
#66
Contrary to popular belief you can run nitrous cars pretty damn lean. Timing is what is usually the killer. You could go way leaner than mid 11s.
He has the idea!
Come on out for the turkey drags, I want to see you make some passes.
We can show people what maximas can do.
He has the idea!
Come on out for the turkey drags, I want to see you make some passes.
We can show people what maximas can do.
Which is basically where I'm at with a .02 larger n2o jet. But that goes against the rules because I would have NO idea what HP shot I'm running then. Lol..
Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; 11-03-2010 at 05:49 PM.
11-03-2010, 07:26 PM
#67
Try this calculator.
Seems pretty good to me.
I used this calculator for my camaro.
The calculator said I would gain 124.72whp with a 57 jet. I gained 125whp on the dyno with a 57 jet.
Seems pretty good to me.
I used this calculator for my camaro.
The calculator said I would gain 124.72whp with a 57 jet. I gained 125whp on the dyno with a 57 jet.
11-04-2010, 06:42 AM
#68
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All together, about $4K...... plus whatever the new Edge TC costs...Oh, I checked with my "appointment secretary", and my wife reminded me that we have a concert to attend on the 13th, so I guess I'm not going to see any turkeys at KID.
Last edited by grey99max; 11-04-2010 at 06:48 AM.
11-04-2010, 01:16 PM
#69
That sucks, but have fun at the concert.
11-07-2010, 08:24 PM
#71
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Some Old Direct-port pixs plus bonus..
I was just reviewing some Maxus 2006 (Dallas) pics and found these of an old direct-port install on one of those Maximas and one pix of Maximagirl..
This could have been the guy from Chicago...
MaximaGirl...
This could have been the guy from Chicago...
MaximaGirl...
Last edited by grey99max; 11-07-2010 at 08:31 PM.
11-11-2010, 03:57 PM
#73
I'm not going to track the car until I get some issues resolved, so I don't break something big. Right now, just N/A, the motor gets to fuel-cut so quick that it pounds on the transmission until it shifts. I set the ShiftFast to 6000 and that's not low enough to complete a shift before fuel-cut.
potential/future world recold holder right here
11-22-2010, 09:16 AM
#75
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A quick test of shifting
Saturday I set the ShiftFast to change gears at 5700 and went out to play. On full throttle launches the transmission would make the 1-2 shift with a considerable delay both in shifting and how long it took to change gears, but the 2-3 shift was a BAM-I'm-in-the-next-gear-squeal-the tires thing. I never found enough highway room to test the 3-4 shift at WOT.
Right now I have the ShiftFast programmed to cut all nitrous for 1/2 second when shifts are triggered, which means that I have no nitrous for one full second when making a 1/4 mile run. I suspect the car would have been somewhat faster in the 1/4 mile if I could have sprayed straight through the shifts - and the transmission could survive that. Previous ones did not - and I suspect this one is failing on the 1-2 shift.
Yup, I need a real built transmission.
Right now I have the ShiftFast programmed to cut all nitrous for 1/2 second when shifts are triggered, which means that I have no nitrous for one full second when making a 1/4 mile run. I suspect the car would have been somewhat faster in the 1/4 mile if I could have sprayed straight through the shifts - and the transmission could survive that. Previous ones did not - and I suspect this one is failing on the 1-2 shift.
Yup, I need a real built transmission.
11-29-2010, 02:41 PM
#78
Saturday I set the ShiftFast to change gears at 5700 and went out to play. On full throttle launches the transmission would make the 1-2 shift with a considerable delay both in shifting and how long it took to change gears, but the 2-3 shift was a BAM-I'm-in-the-next-gear-squeal-the tires thing. I never found enough highway room to test the 3-4 shift at WOT.
Right now I have the ShiftFast programmed to cut all nitrous for 1/2 second when shifts are triggered, which means that I have no nitrous for one full second when making a 1/4 mile run. I suspect the car would have been somewhat faster in the 1/4 mile if I could have sprayed straight through the shifts - and the transmission could survive that. Previous ones did not - and I suspect this one is failing on the 1-2 shift.
Yup, I need a real built transmission.
Right now I have the ShiftFast programmed to cut all nitrous for 1/2 second when shifts are triggered, which means that I have no nitrous for one full second when making a 1/4 mile run. I suspect the car would have been somewhat faster in the 1/4 mile if I could have sprayed straight through the shifts - and the transmission could survive that. Previous ones did not - and I suspect this one is failing on the 1-2 shift.
Yup, I need a real built transmission.
Also, you think you'll need to go into 4th gear ( ~120mph with stock rev limit ) at the track? If not then I recommend not even testing the nitrous in 4th gear, ever. I never ever see 4th gear unless im cruising, and I dont get into 4th to prolong the life of the tranny since the 3-4 shift is pretty slugish even with a shiftkit + DR mod + cooler the size of life lol.
11-29-2010, 07:44 PM
#79
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During the slow 1/2 shift, was nitrous spraying?
Also, you think you'll need to go into 4th gear ( ~120mph with stock rev limit ) at the track? If not then I recommend not even testing the nitrous in 4th gear, ever. I never ever see 4th gear unless im cruising, and I dont get into 4th to prolong the life of the tranny since the 3-4 shift is pretty slugish even with a shiftkit + DR mod + cooler the size of life lol.
Also, you think you'll need to go into 4th gear ( ~120mph with stock rev limit ) at the track? If not then I recommend not even testing the nitrous in 4th gear, ever. I never ever see 4th gear unless im cruising, and I dont get into 4th to prolong the life of the tranny since the 3-4 shift is pretty slugish even with a shiftkit + DR mod + cooler the size of life lol.