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iTrader: (2)

Update!! gone to the track

Im hooking my Zex wet kit right now and we have a hard time locating which wire is the wot wire for the Zex module?? I have two plugs on the tps, top plug is brown, three wires, bottom plug is grey, two wires, missing one on the bottommost.

thanks for the upcoming help!!

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

I know you guys have zex kits, help me!!!

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iTrader: (2)

I tried the white wire on the top connector and the blue/gray on the bottom connector, still same problem. My problem is: when I activate the system like Zex mention in the instruction, my solenoid box is ticking like a machine gun instead of a single tick when i activate with my hand-held controller.

-I turn the key, the light on the box is green, I reset with the button, the light turn red.
-Then, I hold the throttle down to let the module know the wot signal.
-The light flashes green, no color, red, and so on...then,
-I turn the ignition off and the module off.
-I put the car on the ''on'' position, the module ''on'' and I activate once like im suppose to and then: tic tic tic tic like a machine gun.
-Not a single tic for one push on the controller...

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

bump for answer.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

just can't believe nobody has an idea....

Zex owners, step in...

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

close thread, i found my answer elsewhere from a zex owner on npclub.com

thanks anyway...

adamsanders

iTrader: (12)

Could you post which wire it turned out to be in case anyone in the future has a similar problem?

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

it was the white wire on the 3-wire plug on the 4th gen tps.

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iTrader: (2)

Would you guys recommend a 75 wet shot with stock timing???

I also plan to change the plugs for bkr7's ??? I have iridium 6's right now... Any good to upgrade to 7's copper???

I have my thermostat for my blanket set at 900degrees, should I get to 950.

Also, i dont have any way to change timing so, my only adjustment is my Vafc2. I got confirmed 12.5:1 is target AF.

Do you guys add teflon tape to seal everything up??? My only leak was on the thermostat elboy where every hoses meets at the bottle opening.

Is it ok that water dripped from the fitting when I unscrewed after finding a leak??? dripping around 30 drops and a 6inch puddle on the trunk floor, very cood: condensation????

Give me advices before I shoot and destroy something. The prior owner got great result with it so I guess everythning should be ok.

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iTrader: (2)

got to the track yesterday:

Got the heater operational without the dynotune thermostat which doesn't work and was bought brand new (gonna send them a warranty replacement letter...)

Got the temp up to 1000psi, went to try the kit on top of second gear, the car sputerred and suddently we felt a huge surge of torque, then nothing then, the wideband reads 10,1:1 AF... It seems the nitrous side of things decided to stuck shut or else, now it doesn't shoot nitrous, only gas...



Men, im about to sell the freakin'car....... OR get it to work...

Is the nozzle tip froze??? the intake tube was real hot because of the weather we had at the track but the nozzle wasn't cold after the trial...

I got the solenoid ticking once for activation, green light on the module, got the bottle filled right before going to the track, nitrous is coming to the module because I had to remove the pressure in the nitrous feed hose to return home. (I dont have a purge kit yet...), 950psi injection pressure on the gauge...

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Hey Luke are you going to be at Napierville for CSCS again this year?

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iTrader: (2)

for sure I will. Will you?? had the best day of the year when we met.

Jime, I have a hard time with my NOS kit, would be help me??? Please!
I just dont understand why it doesn't work. Checked if the jets were reversed: no. Have a 21 fuel and a 40 nitrous in there. The car runs 10:1 AFR while shooting. It feels slower than NA. So, for sure, something's not right.

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iTrader: (2)

Anyway, I got an appointment at a local tuning shop (first time since I own a car (13 years) usually, I do everything myself.)

Can't believe a Nitrous system is giving me such a hard time to get operational. I can't find what the problem is.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I am planning on being there again Luke so will see you then, looking forward to it.

Ok one step at a time. Sounds like there is NO nitrous getting to the engine. 10:1 and no acceleration = no nitrous.

Disconnect the line from the nitrous solenoid and manually energize the solenoid to make sure nitrous is getting through the solenoid. I would suspect a faulty solenoid or it has dirt in it. It is obvious that the fuel solenoid is opening by the a/f ratio.

Try that and let me know.

Jim

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iTrader: (2)

the kit I have is a ZEX with the module box. I did a lot of testing.

Nitrous is coming out of the nozzle in the intake system and out of the box when I remove the feed hose to the nozzle.

Gas is coming out, im pretty sure, the car runs rich while testing on the back roads and is coming out of the module when I pressurize the gas system with the key at ON position and shooting from the module box.

I heat the system at 950-1000psi when testing.

the jets I got with the kit, I got one writing .21 on it and is on the fuel side,the other one is identified ..40.. on it and is on the nitrous side.

I dont have much pressure in the bottle when its cold, not even 100psi??? is there a valve IN the bottleto permit a 950psi feed?? The kit was stored during two years before I got it.

I took an air pressure hose to unclog everything that might be succeptible of being.

does a stainless steel braided hose can pinch or choke to the point of not sending enough pressure up there. the feed hose at one point is pinched a little bit but only on the exterior, there's not leak of what I found. I dont hear any noizes coming out of anywhere.

Anyway, if the system doesn't work until we meet, we'll check it out next to nice cold beer celebrating your victory that day!!! thanks for the incoming help, it keeps me believing i'll shoot nitrous one day.

thinking about it: if you happen to have a 19\36 jet setup (65shot mesurement i think) and dont use them ,would you lend them to me just to test if it is jet related??

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iTrader: (2)

yesterday, tried to shoot in the air with the two hoses in hand held firm. It shooted 6 feet of white gas and a spray of gasoline right off. As soon as we install back in the car, get the pressure to 900psi for testing. Going in the back roads and try, the car STILL runs 10:1 AFR with the supplied jets (tried 21\40 and 17\32, fuel\nitrous). No feeling of more power whatsoever.

We tried to change how the box is wired and activated, so we installed the simplest possible with no button activation, only the switch for the box and a flat foot to the carpet, still, the nitrous shoots out with the car parked but NOT WITH THE CAR RUNNING ON THE STREET at 100% throttle...

Now, I ask myself if the bottle has been filled with real nitrous. So I borrowed another bottle with tested nitrous and will try it this afternoon. Also, I borrowed NOS solenoid assembly to find it the ZEX box is faulty. If it is, I trash it and never use ZEX anymore...

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iTrader: (2)

I'll also try to go try the car and get the hoses out of the hood to see if ''nitrous'' is shooting as much as gas.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I'm not a zex fan, don't like "black boxes". When something goes wrong its too hard to troubleshoot.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I just saw this.... when you sprayed nitrous in the air, did it kick back hard? If everything is good, you are pushing liquid nitrous oxide at 950 psi out of a hose held in your hand. It should get cold quickly and push back hard when you spray. If not, you're probably seeing nitrous vapor, not liquid. Pinched lines are bad. Blocked solenoids are bad. Crud in the lines is bad. A bad bottle fill is...bad.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

its not liquid, it is white very cold vapor. i'll remove everything and shoot compressed air in everything. SS lines arent suppose to pinch?? but yeah, my feed line seems crushed at one point but on the exterior. Thanks for the leading infos, gives me hope to discover what is making the kit non-power-adder.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

what would you guys do to unclog the solenoid box? Weird, the vapor, not liquid, is coming out from the nitrous hose REAL HARD, REALLY HARD AT 950psi but, when I put everything back together and go on the road, the car goes slower when activating than NA. AFR is 10:1 across the board when testing.

You tell me its suppose to come out as liquid not gas, like gasoline...didn't know . How does it forms?? I saw liquid come out of the bottle when unscrewing the fitting on the bottle, done a small puddle on the trunk floor but not out of the hose from the box.

Its been three weeks trying to solve the problem, during my vacations, now back to work.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

One more thing to try - close the bottle, disconnect the nitrous line from the nitrous solenoid, put on gloves and hold the line upwards, and have a buddy crack the bottle valve. You should see a heavy spray of nitrous and feel the kick - it should be much heavier than with the zex unit or other nitrous solenoid connected. If not, then your problem is in the line or possibly in the bottle valve. Used parts can be a pain. Did you blow out the nozzle?

Jime may be right - a Zex "black box" is too hard to troubleshoot here.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

How much pressure the bottle should have COLD?? I dont event have 100psi.
Will try the bottle venting before the box tonight. Yes, I blew out the nozzle, it doesnt seem clogged by the way air is coming out. I suspected the bottle or the content of the bottle. Light at the end of the tunnel...

thanks guys. Ill update after tonight's testing.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

On a cold morning you will see about 600psi in the bottle - if it has a few pounds of liquid nitrous in it. You can hold a partially filled bottle, tilt it about 45 degrees, then gently move it back and forth. You can feel the nitrous moving in the bottle - if there's some liquid in there.

You should also learn to weigh the bottle. There should be a label on the bottle showing empty weight and what the total nitrous capacity weigh is, and possibly a total weight for a full bottle. I have a decent digital bathroom scale that I use to weigh all bottles after filling, so I know how much I have left. I never count on using the bottle after 1/2 of the nitrous is used - the liquid sloshes around too much, and you can get mixed vapor and liquid at the nozzle.

.

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Did the test you suggested me yesterday: white vapor is coming out of the feed line before the box HARD when venting in open air and becoming frozen at the end of the fitting, freezing it literally.

I can't tell if it comes slower after the box when testing, it still comes out HARD but how much slower is very hard to tell.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

is it suppse to come out as liquid or vapor when at 950psi??

Sorry for my noodness, but I'll learn through it and I'll help back people in return.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

It should come out as liquid that will show as a white vapor, if the bottle is low you will just hear a loud hiss but no vapor.

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iTrader: (2)

I did some tests yerterday, remove the bottle from the trunk and shaked it. Dont feel any liquid going around. I borrowed my friend's bottle that still had nitrous in and didnt feel any going around also. BUT, when I tried to vent each bottle on the ground to see if one was freezing the ground with a puddle of frozen stuff, his was and mine not. Even if he got 6 runs out of his and mine none, nada, niet, I know think mine was filled with nothing that augments power when injected in a nitrous system.

I tried everything while testing the kit:
-shooting air in the hoses to make sure nothing clogges.
-shooting gas outta the box and in the CAI after TB to make sure gas in coming in (look at 10:1 AFR while shooting, gas is coming in for sure.)
-check for any leaks, made sure everything was sealed properly with soap water\teflon taped any non-AN hoses.
-activating the solenoid box the simplest way, ground on the switch in the cockpit, 12v on positive battery pole and WOT signal on the white wire on a 4th gen TPS, top connector middle wire.
-shooted in the air through the hoses next to the car with the key on ''on'' position. Got white very cold vapor and a 6foot shot of gas at 950psi HEATED.
-not even 100psi in the bottle cold on a autometer mecanical gauge in the center console.
-Green light on the ZEX box, foot to the floor and activating switch at full throttle in 3rd gear on the highway, no power whatsoever, 10:1 AFR.
-solenoid ticking each time I floor and flip the switch while parked, ''on'' position.

Seriously, its been a month the kit is installed, remove replaced 10x now. I feel sick of getting power from it.

Any ideas, guys!!

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Must be the bottle content. I dont see anything else...

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iTrader: (2)

thanks to everybody how helped me through the mess I had with Nitrous, I sold the kit and will concentrate on drag tires, millenia wheels and exhaust cutout.

Keep
It
Simple
Stupid

Kiss= NA!!!

Thanks Jime, grey99max and Zex technical support, Andrew.

bolt9465

dude i don't know if this is right but i think the fuel jet needs to be higher than the nitrous one, i forget i just bought some damn pills for my car