JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Turbo and my experience so far with it and other facts.


Lets start off with exhaust facts:

If you want to go turbo get ready to spend some dollars.

If your going to boost 6PSI with the turbo, you can leave your 2.5 inch piping exhaust on. If your going to boost over 9PSI please do your self a favor and get a 3 inch exhaust. It will solve many mysteries and headaches

What will happen if you dont get a 3 inch exhaust and you decide to boost over 9PSI

1. The first problem your going to run into will be high EGTs.

2. 2nd problem, you will get a very fast spool with a 2.5 depending on how you hook up your Electronic BC. I cant speak for manual ones since I dont own one. Your pushing 9 psi and your running someone, your guaranteed to get a nasty spike over 10PSI, from 10PSI-15PSI. I have spiked to 15PSI. Good thing I have that expensive Blitz SBC-ID that blinks bright red and warns me. After a 15PSI spike the CEL will come on. After I check it one of the banks ran lean Lucky i have 370s. If you have a electronic Boost Controller like the Blitz SBC-ID, it has a safety feature that you manually set to knock a percentage of the boost it sees. You manually set that. So your racing someone and your at 9PSI and then bam youll spike to 12PSI. Well the BC will knock a percentage of that spike slowing you down.

an example of that can be seen in this video:

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...=getit&lid=135

the noise heard in the back ground is the Boost controller slowing the car down.

3. if you dont get a 3 inch exhaust and think that your stock crap will cut it, dont go complain why your boost controller cant boost more then 6 PSI, it wont happen trust me.

After going with complete 3 inch piping boost comes on very smooth and holds steady. My EGTs have dropped. Thats just common sense stuff.

I have the 3 inch Warpspeed exhaust with a magnaflow muffler. It sounds just like the greddy SP exhaust. I am very happy with that. I thought it was going to sound loud like other turbo Maximas. Very annoying noise. Greddy exhausts come with two resonators. If Greddy uses resonators that means is not a bad idea to use one. It quiets down the noise. I personally dont like too much noise. The Greddy is about the nicest sounding exhaust on the market. A resonator will not slow you down. Dont know why people think that I know I dynoed 321HP & 260lbs of torque with my Greddy when I was supercharged.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Pros about turbos vs the Vortech Stillen SCer. This is only my opinion about it since I was Supercharged not once but twice.

Turbo Pros

1. If you have a Electronic Boost controller you can turn the boost up or down by turning a ****. Same thing goes with a manual $20-$40 boost controller. Turn the **** up or down if your going up a pretty fast car.


2. If you have a nice Electronic Boost controller=EBC, you can turn the gain up or down. What the gain will do is it will pulse the wastegate shut longer for a more efficient spool up or pulse the waste gate open for a not so efficient spool up. Basically boost response.


3. Since the turbo is powered by exhaust you will get a whole lot more HP and torque out of that sucker.

4. There are no electrical wires to hook up with a turbo. Specially if you have a manual Boost controller. It is vacuum operated. The only electronics you will need to hook up will be the gauges, Apexi SAFC, JS or Greddy Emanage.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

One thing that I hate about the turbo is the heat. Heat is the engines number one enemy. For the guys running the forward Y pipes and removing the stock fans, thats a no no . Dont do that ****. Pusher fans are not as efficient as the stock puller fans. Seen it on two cars. There is a way to do a forward Y pipe and still keep your puller fans.


If you live in the lower states where is very hot, I would highly recommend you get a oil cooler. I have a apexi electronic oil temp gauge. During these not so hot summer days, my temps have gone as hight as 90 plus degrees Celsius after a few boosted runs. To me thats very freaking hot. during the winter months my temps usually sit right around 65-75 degrees Celsius. If I am driving like a normal person the gauge sits right at 60-65 degrees celsius (no boosted runs). During these few summer days the temps have dropped up to 8 degrees celsius after boosting the car. Thats on the freeway. During the winter months the oil cooler will drop your temps up to 25 degrees celsius. It does its job. Great mod for the money.


Bare with me I am trying to share as much info as I can with you guys

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

5th gen owners 2000-2001!!! dont have injectors readily available--Bullsh!t! Yes they do. You can upgrade injectors past 440CC. I dont know the CCs available but you can trust me and they will work.

How do you control such large injector i...e 555cc or 66? ? What about my 5th gen MAF? dont worry Emanage will take care of that for you. Whether your SCed or Turbo relax EMANAGE, EMANAGE. If anyone bad mouths emanage they can kiss my azzzz. Not to sound arrogant but Emanage is the way to go. You cant depend on JW because he has no upgrades. Emanage is your ticket.

easy, lower Base FP and buy a Greddy Emanage. It will control it for you. You dont need no after market ECU. You can install 440 which I know they make for your car, and larger CC injectors. You guys are like he dont know he owns a 4th gen. Once again same car, Diff ECU, Upper and lower manifold diff injectors and probably a couple of other Cali spec stuff. The car can be upgraded just like our 4th gen. What about the MAF AF readings, no Z32 MAF available. Relax the Greddy Emanage/Profec EO1 boost controller will take care all that for you.

If your Supercharged you can buy the pressure senor harness, it will take over after the MAF maxes out

THis topic Ill add more info. These are not opinions these are facts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!you can read too and do some research!!!!!

I am not done so stay tuned!

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Help my freaking car stalls, I am about to trash this ****! thats me


solution one:

you can recirculate the air from the BOV. Good idea


solution two:

the Greddy Emanage has a antistall. Use that and keep your nice BOV sound.



Apexi SAFC Dec feature on I or II.


"THAT **** DOES NOT WORK" It will work once you come off boost. Your car wont shut off. Good deal right because thats what we want. Wait a minute, now when your car is at idle at the light your **** will shut off very quick and you wont be able to start it. I played with it numerous times and no worky for me.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

1. What Size turbo should I get?

There is no 1 answer or easy answer for this. It depends on a few major factors. The first being, the distance from the exhaust manifolds to the Turbo. It could be as short as 3 ft or as long as 7 ft. (Now if you do a Twin Turbo setup, things can change, but look at FAQ #2 for that answer)

The 2nd is, what do you want to do with your car? Do you want the fastest 1/4 mile time possible? Or do you want total top end power? If your turbo is large, a TO4R with a .70 a/r compressor housing and a.96 a/r turbine housing is a large turbo for us, it MAY NOT hit ANY boost until ~4000rpm. And full boost could be ~5000 rpm. So, that kind of powerband is almost useless for a daily driver or a weekend 1/4 mile racer. On the flip side, a small turbo ( T3 with a compressor housing of .42 A/R and a turbine housing of .48 a/r ) may have 1lb of boost @ 1800 rpm. And it may reach full boost by ~2200 rpm. BUT, at some point BEFORE 6500 rpm, your turbo will reach a point when boost actually DROPS OFF. You really need to know how to read a COMPRESSOR MAP to aid in this. See FAQ # 3.

This is a qoute from Jay25 "I got a T4 AR .81 turbine . That AR is pretty freaking huge. On the Freeway from a 3rd gear run that thing rocks. It pulls like a run away train. Great thats what I want. From a 2nd gear pull it sucks. From a dead stop youll get owned by most of these small cars with small turbos. A Turbine AR between .58-.68 would be an ideal AR. I am going to go with a .58AR or a .6? what ever size they make. I am going to see what type of difference that will make on my T04E BB turbo. During the winter time is awesome. There is far more research I have to do to match up a perfect setup. I am a big time Freeway runner and track runner. I have to take this to the track and see what it does with the .81 AR.


A good coparison is Bags T3 .58 AR Turbine vs my T4 .81 AR Turbine. He woops my Azzzz from a dead stop. Car is very fast the minute he gets on it. Mad props to his setup which has instant boost the min he slams the pedal to the metal. On the freeway he will pull on me instantly once again, but I reel him in within 5 secs or less and keep on pulling."


2. Can I Twin Turbo my maxima?

Short answer, YES. Is it difficult? VERY.



Long Answer....

When you think about a V-6 motor, a TT (twin turbo) setup sounds like the perfect thing to do. Each turbo mounting to the exhuast manifold, which is the BEST place for them. BUT, when you start looking at your engine bay from the underside and behind the motor, you'll quickly realize, it's not easy getting 2 inch pipe in and around all the electronics. Mounting a turbo to the front manifold would be easy. There is some room and routing pipes is not that hard. But, you'd lose your stock fans for cooling, which is a bad idea, In my opinon. Ok, so your 1/2 way there. Now, mounting the rear manifold turbo. A T3 turbo MIGHT fit back there. So, how does it draw in air? The problem here is, does it come from behind the motor? It would be VERY hard to get a 2 inch pipe back there. Or the passenger or driver side of the motor? And then if your using an extranl wastegate, that means anothe large part in a tight fitting space. Then there is the whole combining the 2 charge pipes into 1 pipe to feed the intercooler and then more piping back to the Throttle body.

This is about 80% of what you need to think about for a Twin Turbo kit. So, again, it's not easy.

And, to make things more difficult, if you choose the wrong 2 turbos, you could end up with poor response and low top end, among other things. Credit IceY2K1

There are ZERO Twin Turbo Maxima's on this website



3. How do I read a compressor MAP?

http://www.turbocalculator.com/how-to-read.html


These links were shown to me by IceY2K1, GOOD stuff ... http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/my...sor%20Maps.htm

http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

http://www.stealth316.com/2-air-fuel-flow.htm

Also good reading, Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost. It can be found on amazon.com Credit MZMTG

So your looking at the compressor map trying to figure out what all of the numbers mean, AND what numbers are on par for the maxima.

I found this page to be helpful. http://www.turboneticsinc.com/guidelines.html

NEALOC187 found this link, VG info, close to VQ info.... http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/my...sor%20Maps.htm

Well, through my own research and talking with several members of this board, it took me a WEEK to figure out what turbo best suited what I wanted to do.

So it's not a knee jerk operation. A NEW turbo will cost you ~$800, so measure twice, buy once.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

4. What amount of Boost (Pounds Per Square Inch/PSI) can I safely run on the stock motor and stock compression


First and foremost, there is no 100% safe way to turbocharge a stock motor. Nissan engineers spent thousands of hours and millions of dollars designing and testing the stock motor to take all kinds of abuse and still run well and make power.

So by adding another 70-200 horsepower/torque to your engine, you have just surpassed the nissan engineers wildest guess of what a stock motor will be producing. So all of the margins of safety and error they put into the motor to make it run well, you have just taken that away. Even 4 PSI, will put added wear and tear on your motor. I am not saying that it will only last 10,000 miles. I am making you aware that everything your thinking about doing will push your engine's componets much harder than anyone ever planned.

There is no 100% answer for an EXACT PSI level. Your forcing more air into the combustion chamber. So you need more gas. Things like fuel pumps, fuel injectors, Mass Air Flow meter, and other items should be thought about upgrading, before you boost.

The "general concensis" is 12 PSI is the MAXIMUM amount of boost you can run daily on the stock motor. AGAIN, as long as you PLANNED for it with fuel and proper engine management. Am I saying you can't run 13 PSI or higher? NO. This is the uncharted territory. There are a select few who have run higher than this, but, they knew exactly what they were getting into and blew a motor or transmission while doing it.

My "safe" informed guess, would be 10 PSI. That's using at LEAST 370cc injectors, SFAC/JWT ecu/Emanage/etc.., upgraded fuel pump, and a different MAF. You can use the stock MAF, but it will be maxed out and you should upgrade it to properly tune your car. There are more than a few members on this board who daily drive this and have been daily driving this without any major problems. The above setup is roughly 315-350 WHP depending on exhaust size and turbo size.


5. How much does Turbocharging my Maxima COST?

I'll give a very BAISC breakdown of what each item costs.

As with everything, there are many DIFFERENT kinds of parts out there. This is just a basic idea of what each part will cost. Your cost may vary, but this is close.

Turbo Used $300+ New $600+

Wastegate Used $50+ New $150+

Blow off valve Used $50+ New $150+

Intercooler Used $30+ New $150+

Piping for the Turbo $500+

Flanges for the turbo $50+

Exhaust (cat back) $350+

Silicone pipe couplings $4+ each, expect to use 8 or more

T-bolt clamps $2 each from napa, expect 16 or more

Oil feed line and associated fittings $50+

Oil return line and associated fittings $80+ (this line is MUCH larger than the feed line, so it costs more)

FMU Used $30+ New $60+

Random Silicone lines for FMU $50

Boost Gauge Used $30+ New $115+

Turbo Timer Used $40+ New $80+

Upgraded Fuel Pump $100+

Upgraded clutch for 5 spd $250+

Upgraded Valve Body for Automatic $250+

Tranny Cooler for Automatic $30+

Now for those of you who are thinking this is cake, I did not factor in ANY labor.

Labor, dending on where you live is $60/hr to $100/hr. And if you want custom mandrel bent pipes, that increases the cost. The cost for having the pipes made and installed is in the neighborhood of $700 or more, depending on what you want for a turbo feed pipe. You can get better deals than that, but that's what I got qouted for MOST of the pipes.

This list is almost 100% of what is required. Buying everything new and getting the list prices I qouted, $3000 is about what your going to pay. Going used and find good deals, $2200 is about what your going to pay. SO add a minimum of $600 to that.

A "kit" is approx $4000, and this list is anywhere from $2500-$5000, depending on what parts you want to go with.

And if you don't have a few days to install it, or the know how, add more money to the picture. And there are always things that "pop up", during the process.

The bottom line is, if you think you can do it for $3000 with used parts and taking shortcuts, it's going to cost you more money down the road. You can install some of the "kits" in 2 days. If you have the knowledge and the time, building your own turbo kit may not save you much money, but you'll get EXACTLY what you want.

So it's all a matter of what do you want. And if you only know you want a turbo on your maxima, shop around and find a good shop to either make you a custom turbo, or install a "kit". I was qouted $6000 for a custom turbo kit from one shop and $4000 from another shop. Just take your time and get it right the 1st time. You'll be happier in the long run

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Warpspeed will sell you their 3 inch exhaust system which comes from Y pipe all the way to the exhaust. It also comes with a 3 inch test pipe. Here is a thread with pics of a 3 inch exhaust


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=327864

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

The new Nissan Vehicles are coming out with no return fuel lines. Well to tackle that issue Greddy came out with the Emanage. Alot of people bad mouthed the Emanage. It has been out for a while. The 350Z has returnless fuel lines. What does that mean? Greddy made the injector harness to control a larger injector. With the injector harness you can upgrade from a stock injector to a larger injector. All you have to do is go to your Profec or your laptop using the support tool and change the setting from stock size to the larger injector. It will throw a conversion number which it will use to control the pulse of the injector so it does not flood out your engine.

The emanage is not a Giant SAFC, I would not compare it to a sorry crappy SAFC. Why do I say that? the Emanage has way more features then the SAFC, thats why it costs more. Hello what ever you pay for is what you get. With the MAF on the non charged side and the BOV going off to let off air into the atmosphere your car is going to stall. The emanage has a antistall feature. The SAFC has one too. I attempted using it many times on the Apexi and that crap did work but at idle the car would shut off and would not turn on.

With the Emanage the antistall feature works pretty well because it locks the Voltage of your MAF at what ever RPM you set it to lock in. When you come off boost so you dont stall out.

I would go with the Z32 MAF to compliment the antistall feature. We can easily max out our stock MAF which is not good.