So my gas gauge reads full almost all of the time, sometimes when I start the car with like half a tank it'll read correctly until it warms up, then it'll slowly go back to full. and other times when I have a full tank it'll go down to like half for a little bit.

I do have the fuel level sensor low voltage code sometimes when I check my codes as well.

I'm just wondering if you guys think it's just my float or the whole sending unit? I think you have to buy the entire thing if you wanna replace it anyway.

I'm going to get a new pump and filter, should I get this too? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-Ni...43e6f6&vxp=mtr

Thanks!

 

Save your money man. I had the same issue and same code.

Replaced the pump and float and still had the issue. Turns out it was the cluster. Try to find one with similar mileage and it will take care of your issues.

 

If its an 02-03 i'm pretty sure its the cluster.

 

You can test your cluster right? Putting it in diagnostics mode or w/e?

 

Forever gas! You are lucky!

 

Haha, I've already ran outta gas completely once already!

Wasn't fun!

 

Yes, there is a self diagnostic built into the cluster. It will make the gauge needles point to a certain position.

See page 122.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf

If the needles point correctly, then the unit in the tank is the problem.

 

I know one of my LED's don't work.

 

When mines was bad the diagnostic showed that it was good.

 

If you really want to replace your fuel pump assembly as opposed to fixing the cluster I have one for sale let me know

 

what rpm was your tach showing vs what it should have been?
thanks

 

Well, in the picture the tach is at about 1,500rpm. I think it's suppose to be at like 1,300rpm.

 

so...is it off at idle also?

 

Ummm, idles at about 800-900rpm fully warmed up.

 

my 01 does to. it actually runs great but I thought it was supposed to idle ~750-800

 

The diagnostic test only verifies that the link from the microprocessor to the gauges is functioning correctly. This will not indicate that the total fuel gauge circuitry is functioning properly. If the problem is in the circuitry from the outside world (from the fuel sender in this case) to the microprocessor; the diagnostic test will not help and just indicates a false positive. The input circuit for the fuel sender needs to be repaired.

We repair the clusters but since I will be probably accused of spamming, I can't say much more. I can give $20 off repair cost to maxima.org users. http://www.mrwhizard.com

 

The gauge actually has been working for about a week now. I'm thinking maybe because I have a can of seafoam in there?

 

That's a great big maybe. The sender unit in the gas tank has an open, exposed variable resistor. Maybe the resistor was building up tarnish and the Seafoam acted like a cleaner. Only time will tell.

In the 4th gen, the FSM sells you how to calibrate it, but I think this has been left out of the 5th gen manual.

 

Hopefully it stays working.

If I have to replace it, I think it's like 80$. (because you have to buy the whole top half)