How 2 get a 4gen auto n2 the 12's w/o a 3.5 swap
 

Hey since it looks like getting a 4gen auto into the 13's is not that hard I said how about the 12's.

So hear we go what is your setup to get a 4gen auto into the 12's without a 3.5 swap

here's what I think:

mevi or 001vi
2 stage 125 total shot of nitrous or progressive 150 shot
drop mod
tranny cooler
light weight wheels and slicks
weight reduction (spare tire, jack, passenger and back seat)
1/4 tank or less gas
104 race fuel
2 step colder plugs
cat back exhuast + y-pipe
true cai
msd rpm box to control the vi and nitrous shutoff for better shifts

:nx:

that should do it

maybe 2-step colder plugs with shaved grounds

any reason why 2step colder with shaved grounds, I am not saying your wrong just trying to understand all avenues

are you looking for the cheapest way to do it, or just a way to do it? nitrous is the cheapest way for sure, install a halfway decent turbo setup and you'd surely get there as well. an SC setup could do it also, etc. there are a million different ways to skin a cat.

Insurance. Cheap insurance for your engine. With high levels of nitrous, Preignition / Detonation is NOT your friend. :nutkick:

Combine with 104 octane race gas. Enjoy your engine still running after the track closes. :chuckle:

Ask Jime...

Change the Y-pipe to full long-tube headers. I'm going to. :nervous:

I am looking for the cheapest, but also want to here other setups cause I may boost 1day

I still need to drive the car everyday, when I go to the track all I want to do is change my wheels and tire, weight reduction, warm the bottle and go

Why do headers make it unstreetable???

is 104 cat friendly

performance headers no, but in most cases long tubes headers are for race purposes only

seems like you got it down..+1 on step 2 coolders there just more n20 friendly.

I would say no on that one.

Sunoco 104 (blue stuff) or VP Street Blaze 103 (red stuff) is perfectly compatable with catalytic converters - no ***raethyl lead at all.

Either one will do wonders for preventing preignition and detonation when spraying.

With heavy shots (over 100-shot), you would be foolish if you don't use one or the other.

I was not sure about the sunco 104 I was going to mix it with some 93

Oh and I updated the list with 2 step colder plugs and a msd rpm box to control the vi and nitrous if going with a 2 stage setup

Hey babymac looks like if you get a 2 stage nitrous setup you will have a shot at 12's

Hey guys do you think I have any chance of hitting 12's with only a 75shot

Sure, with the right setup. I ran a 13.1 with a 35 shot.

How in the world did you do that, do you remember your setup at the time

your car must have been a shell

....... :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
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:bowdown1: :bowdown1: :bowdown1:

I agree, please repost I have to know how in the world you pulled that off

This was 3 years ago and my car at that time was around 2900 lbs. Mods were Y-Pipe, catback etc, DR Mod, slicks, intake etc, nothing special.

This was when they did the article on my car in Modified Mag. http://jime.homeip.net/carinfo.html

Here are the timeslips for a 35 and 150 shot. I ran a 12.3 same day on a 100 shot.

http://jime.homeip.net/maximase/35shot.jpg

As of right now a dual stage isn't in the cards, but I'm greedy and might just try?? I think with some drag radials and my current set-up I MIGHT get pretty close?????

did you have the stall converter in at the time, I know this mod does wonders

No converter I just got that this year.

Any tips your willing to toss this way. My pb is a 2.0-60ft and 14.3-1/4 with a 65shot of nitrous, drop mod, y-pipe and removed the spare tire, jack and bottom half of the back seat.

I spray right off the line and launch at idle, I do not think the stock tires (205/65/15's) will much more than that

As you stated in your first post, slicks are a must to get off the line. I still believe the 22x8x15 M/T's are the best for nitrous. I did the same launched at idle, spray out of the hole and through the shifts.

Also I hold the front end down using cable on the struts and stiffen the rear as well to prevent the least amount of weight transfer possible. ie no lift on front and no compression on the rear. Many ways of accomplishing this but it really helps the 60' times. Video taping the launch is a great way to diagnose what is happening. Other than that I just hold on and let the auto shift on its own.

Subscribing.....

By the way, to match Jime's times, you gotta move to Canada, to take advantage of that "secret sauce" Canadian air..... Jclaw told me about their secret weapon.... USA air just doesn't have the right stuff in it...:hyper:

thanks, I'll to strap the front and use those rubber blocks in the rear springs

Yeah forgot about that lol. They need to bottle it up and start a group deal.