To Lexan or not to Lexan?
#1
To Lexan or not to Lexan?
So about 3 years ago i decided to put Lexan on my rear windows. Weight savings was the objective so I saved approx 12 lbs (7 on rear and 2.5 on each side). The cost was approx $165 for a sheet of tinted 1/8", not bad for 12 lbs? The rear side windows were easy but the rear didn't look good with a wide swath of black silicone, finger spread around the outside.
It looked not too bad and putting my car# and dial in seemed fairly easy to remove as long as I didn't let anyone put shoe polish on. However the last year its starting to look pretty scratched and hard to see out of the rear from all the number and dial in removal, I even used a special lexan cleaner.
So today I decided enough is enough and went to the U-Pick. Picked up a rear window, the rear side windows, coolant leg (that blew at MAXUS from my fans not working and overheating), master cylinder (that blew last weekend at a $1000 event), windshield washer tank (for my meth setup) all for $80. Not bad.
So was it worth it? For the experience yes, for the weight savings no.
If I was to do it over again I would get the abraision resistant lexan at over $300 a sheet (not tinted), not cheap but if you are going to do it thats the way to go.
If I keep going I will be back to my stock weight. Next thing you will see me with a S/C or Turbo going to the dyno. NOT.
It looked not too bad and putting my car# and dial in seemed fairly easy to remove as long as I didn't let anyone put shoe polish on. However the last year its starting to look pretty scratched and hard to see out of the rear from all the number and dial in removal, I even used a special lexan cleaner.
So today I decided enough is enough and went to the U-Pick. Picked up a rear window, the rear side windows, coolant leg (that blew at MAXUS from my fans not working and overheating), master cylinder (that blew last weekend at a $1000 event), windshield washer tank (for my meth setup) all for $80. Not bad.
So was it worth it? For the experience yes, for the weight savings no.
If I was to do it over again I would get the abraision resistant lexan at over $300 a sheet (not tinted), not cheap but if you are going to do it thats the way to go.
If I keep going I will be back to my stock weight. Next thing you will see me with a S/C or Turbo going to the dyno. NOT.
Last edited by Jime; 07-27-2009 at 02:29 PM.
#2
#3
4 Oct, same event as last year. I have a new pair of slicks and I'm trying to stretch my old ones until Oct because it really helps the 60'.
This year its going to be a 75 out of the hole and a 125 as soon as I feel I can do it in 1st gear. Probably won't be a whole lot better depends on the temp though.
This year its going to be a 75 out of the hole and a 125 as soon as I feel I can do it in 1st gear. Probably won't be a whole lot better depends on the temp though.
#6
4 Oct, same event as last year. I have a new pair of slicks and I'm trying to stretch my old ones until Oct because it really helps the 60'.
This year its going to be a 75 out of the hole and a 125 as soon as I feel I can do it in 1st gear. Probably won't be a whole lot better depends on the temp though.
This year its going to be a 75 out of the hole and a 125 as soon as I feel I can do it in 1st gear. Probably won't be a whole lot better depends on the temp though.
#7
Not that you want to go back to lexan at this point, but one of the things I've seen some of the local guys do is put a small piece of 3M clearbra or other clear removable plastic on the area where they write the numbers. Then when it gets scratched, you just peel it off and replace.
The other thing you can do to make it look better is to carefully tape off around the window trim and hose it down with black spray paint. it'll help to cover up the lines from the silicone.
The other thing you can do to make it look better is to carefully tape off around the window trim and hose it down with black spray paint. it'll help to cover up the lines from the silicone.
#8
Not that you want to go back to lexan at this point, but one of the things I've seen some of the local guys do is put a small piece of 3M clearbra or other clear removable plastic on the area where they write the numbers. Then when it gets scratched, you just peel it off and replace.
The other thing you can do to make it look better is to carefully tape off around the window trim and hose it down with black spray paint. it'll help to cover up the lines from the silicone.
The other thing you can do to make it look better is to carefully tape off around the window trim and hose it down with black spray paint. it'll help to cover up the lines from the silicone.
Stock windows are now all back in. I also had to put back in some of the rear door bracing to hold the glass so my weight is creeping back up. I will weigh it at the next CSCS 23 Aug but I think am well over 2800 again.
I also just replaced the coolant leg that blew at MAXUS when my cooling fans quit as well as my master cylinder.
Got a big race coming up 7,8 & 9 Aug, $1600 so gotta have everything up to snuff. Its the little things that always get you, have to be prepared for everything.
#9
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