need new suspension
05-29-2003, 05:18 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 548
need new suspension
it's that time where I need to look at having my shocks replaced before I go through a new set of tires. does anyone have any recommendations, as well as a general price range of what I'm lookin at to spend, and where to have the work done?
also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?
I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?
I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
05-30-2003, 06:50 AM
#2
Re: need new suspension
Ok, simple enough....
If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.
Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...
First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.
Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.
Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.
New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....
To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.
If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.
Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...
First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.
Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.
Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.
New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....
To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.
If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
05-30-2003, 08:26 AM
#3
Re: Re: need new suspension
Q! Write up! Sticky this one!!! 
S
S
Originally posted by MaxWgn
Ok, simple enough....
If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.
Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...
First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.
Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.
Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.
New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....
To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.
If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
Ok, simple enough....
If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.
Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...
First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.
Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.
Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.
New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....
To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.
If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
05-30-2003, 12:07 PM
#6
Originally posted by max88q
Ill sticky it, lol.
Ill sticky it, lol.
S
05-30-2003, 12:24 PM
#7
Originally posted by maximase86
hmm, well when I do my KONI's and spring install, I'll try to get some pics to compliment some of that...though it's gonna be a bit different.
S
hmm, well when I do my KONI's and spring install, I'll try to get some pics to compliment some of that...though it's gonna be a bit different.
S
That will at least cover the strut portion...
06-17-2003, 03:10 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 144
Re: need new suspension
Originally posted by blackmaxima88
it's that time where I need to look at having my shocks replaced before I go through a new set of tires. does anyone have any recommendations, as well as a general price range of what I'm lookin at to spend, and where to have the work done?
also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?
I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
it's that time where I need to look at having my shocks replaced before I go through a new set of tires. does anyone have any recommendations, as well as a general price range of what I'm lookin at to spend, and where to have the work done?
also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?
I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
10-09-2003, 10:15 PM
#10
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3
I replaced the rear struts with a japanese racing shock. they were supposed to be direct replacements for the electronic adjustable shocks on my 1988 SE. it was a pain putting them together but they work. they just make this clunking sound when the wheel goes downward. did I do something wrong?
also, I want to change the timing belt myself. Is it a big deal? I have rebuilt entire engines but on American cars. How difficult is it to change out one of these timing belts? doesn't look too bad. Do I need special tools of any sort?
Redliner
also, I want to change the timing belt myself. Is it a big deal? I have rebuilt entire engines but on American cars. How difficult is it to change out one of these timing belts? doesn't look too bad. Do I need special tools of any sort?
Redliner
10-09-2003, 11:29 PM
#11
Sounds like either you botched the install, which I've done on my fronts, something is missing, or strut is wrong.
To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.
S
To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.
S
10-10-2003, 09:44 AM
#12
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3
Originally Posted by maximase86
Sounds like either you botched the install, which I've done on my fronts, something is missing, or strut is wrong.
To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.
S
To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.
S
10-17-2004, 11:05 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Suspension
When you start on the front struts...make sure you use the correct type spring compressor before you attemp to remove the cartridge from the spring 
They are much stronger. "DANGER! DANGER! WILL ROBINSON! 
...for those that are old enough to remember "Lost In Space"
telfonejac
They are much stronger. "DANGER! DANGER! WILL ROBINSON! ...for those that are old enough to remember "Lost In Space"telfonejac
05-16-2005, 08:32 AM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3
Parallel Links...are they they same on the 88 and 89?
Hi,
I have an 88 Max. 4 Dr. My rear suspension is shot (on the right side). The bushings on the parallel links are gone. Nissan tells me that they don't sell the bushings alone, so i have to purchase the 2 links (adjustable and non-adjustable).
I found bushings here:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...t_Code=7-3117G
As you can see....the top part of the page says 89-94, but at the bottom that shows applications for the bushings, it says 84-89. So I am not quite sure if they'll fit or not.
Could someone please tell me if they are the same size for the 88 and for the 89.
Thanks
I have an 88 Max. 4 Dr. My rear suspension is shot (on the right side). The bushings on the parallel links are gone. Nissan tells me that they don't sell the bushings alone, so i have to purchase the 2 links (adjustable and non-adjustable).
I found bushings here:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...t_Code=7-3117G
As you can see....the top part of the page says 89-94, but at the bottom that shows applications for the bushings, it says 84-89. So I am not quite sure if they'll fit or not.
Could someone please tell me if they are the same size for the 88 and for the 89.
Thanks
05-16-2005, 06:40 PM
#15
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3
88 Maxima
Well........I sold the 88 Maxima. I told the guy that bought it about the noise in the shocks. He didn't care. The interior is perfect. Not just nice, ...perfect. The exterior is pretty nice too........hardly a scratch. However it has some hail dents from awhile back that my wife got when she couldn't get under cover on time. Sold it for $1500. I miss that car. Take a look.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...hiteMaxima.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...hiteMaxima.jpg
06-03-2005, 05:55 PM
#16
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
i just bought an 84 maxima with only 136,006 original miles. its a rear wheel drive, inline 280z 6 cylinder straight up luxury automible. this car has everything you could think of in a car except for keyless entry, but just the simple fact that the car talks completely makes up for it. it was bone stock when i got it but i put my touch screen cd player in it for now. i have done minor work to it such as front brakes and rotors, basic tune up stuff. i need to fined a center console and a driver side corner light, and thats what im in the process of now. i also need to do something with this loose 1980's suspention cuz every time i hit a bump the whole rear jumps to the right. if any one has any suggestions let me know. thanks!
06-03-2005, 07:59 PM
#17
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 3
Same problem
I had the same problem. It turned out to be the bushings on the rear parallel links that were gone. If you jack the car up, and push against the rear tires and the tires move (in and out), that might be the problem.
They don't sell the bushings alone (believe me, I looked, and no one could tell me for sure if the ones from the 89-94 Maxima would fit), so you'll have to buy the links. There are two - one adjustable, and one not. They are about $145 for the two, but you have to get them directly from Nissan. I wasn't able to find them anywhere else. I checked all the major (and not so major) auto parts places and they all told me that I have to go to Nissan to get it.
They don't sell the bushings alone (believe me, I looked, and no one could tell me for sure if the ones from the 89-94 Maxima would fit), so you'll have to buy the links. There are two - one adjustable, and one not. They are about $145 for the two, but you have to get them directly from Nissan. I wasn't able to find them anywhere else. I checked all the major (and not so major) auto parts places and they all told me that I have to go to Nissan to get it.
07-11-2005, 08:25 PM
#20
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1
Hello pepz
Im new to this sight and I have a 88 Nissan Max with rear right side shock problems. Must be common> Ih anybody body knows where to find perfomace suspension parts sites plz let me know I wanna redo my whole suspension.
Thanks
Dizzle
Im new to this sight and I have a 88 Nissan Max with rear right side shock problems. Must be common> Ih anybody body knows where to find perfomace suspension parts sites plz let me know I wanna redo my whole suspension.
Thanks
Dizzle
10-18-2005, 08:05 AM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 10
Me too. I've got an 82 Maxima diesel with a badly sagging rearend. Been surfing the net looking for some new rear springs and CANNOT find anything. Will something else work that is available. Right now I can't put anything heavier than a glass of water in the trunk without is dragging. Got to admit it does ride nice solo though.
Help please.............
Help please.............
11-14-2005, 07:08 PM
#22
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 34
I just bought an 88 wagon (GXE I think) last week and the rear-end is bouncy bouncy. When I went to the parts store to order KYB shocks, my parts guy wanted to know if the car had some type of "electronic suspension." Does my wagon have this electronic suspension?
Also, has anyone here bought lowereing/performance springs for a wagon. I got the car for $140 and figure I can spend a few bucks on silly stuff.
Also, has anyone here bought lowereing/performance springs for a wagon. I got the car for $140 and figure I can spend a few bucks on silly stuff.
09-05-2006, 12:42 PM
#24
Stupid is as Stupid does
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 26
just bought an '87 maxima with the factory adjustable ride suspension. All struts are wasted and need to install all four. The dealer will replace the factory suspension for approx $2000 which is well above what i paid for the car. Was looking at changing it to KYB struts but not sure whats involved. Does anyone have any info on how to convert this adjustable suspension to kyb struts or something similiar. Want a good ride but still have grip when needed.
10-16-2006, 07:17 PM
#25
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 73
Take a look here:
http://www.coximport.com/kyb/appendixc.html
KYB Gas Shocks
APPENDIX C
ELECTRONIC SUSPENSIONS
AIR SUSPENSIONS
AND ELECTRONIC LEVEL CONTROLS
NISSAN MAXIMA 1985 with ECVSA (Electronically
Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)
1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #5M5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats, and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-0SE00. Two each of
these 4 P/N’s are required.
5. Use the following units: 235030 Right Front, 235031 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.
NISSAN MAXIMA 1986-88 with ECVSA (Electronically Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)
1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with the units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #SM5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats,
and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-05E00. Two each of these 4 P/N’s are required.
5. Use the following units: 235019 Right Front, 235020 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.
http://www.coximport.com/kyb/appendixc.html
KYB Gas Shocks
APPENDIX C
ELECTRONIC SUSPENSIONS
AIR SUSPENSIONS
AND ELECTRONIC LEVEL CONTROLS
NISSAN MAXIMA 1985 with ECVSA (Electronically
Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)
1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #5M5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats, and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-0SE00. Two each of
these 4 P/N’s are required.
5. Use the following units: 235030 Right Front, 235031 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.
NISSAN MAXIMA 1986-88 with ECVSA (Electronically Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)
1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with the units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #SM5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats,
and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-05E00. Two each of these 4 P/N’s are required.
5. Use the following units: 235019 Right Front, 235020 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.
12-19-2006, 01:42 PM
#26
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1
Hi everyone, newbie at this site. I just want to replace the springs on my 88 because I already have the struts (front & rear) with a kit for the fronts to replace the oem electronic suspension. I need to know two things - 1. where to get the best deal on regular springs, and 2. What exactly is involved in replacing this outdated suspension. Thanx in advance.
05-31-2007, 11:29 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 110
I'll add my thoughts on replacing the struts. I just did mine on my 88 wagon.
First off, shop around. I got 4 gr-2's with boots for $200 shipped from Tire Rack. They can also be had for cheap on eBay.
Plan on replacing the 2 strut to steering nuckle bolts in the front, and plan on getting them ahead of time. I couldn't find any the same day I needed them, wish I would've ordered them before I started.
About a week before you start, get a can of PB Blaster and spray the 2 front strut to steering nuckle bolts on each side. Also spray the parallel link bolt, the control arm bolts and the sway bar bolt on each side in the rear. Do this again the day before you start.
The fronts are incredibly simple. It's good to have a helper, as you don't want the steering nuckle to come out to far and mess up your cv joint. Just the 3 bolts up top, and the 2 steering nuckle bolts. That's it.
The rears take a little more time and elbow grease. It's also not completely necessary to take the rotors off. I didn't, and the shop that swapped the springs out didn't mind.
I didn't swap out the springs myself. I paid $50 at a local shop to have them done. They did it in an hour, and it was $50 well spent to me. I don't like messing with springs.
Having never done struts before, it took me about 2 hours to take all 4 off, and 1 1/2 hour to put them all back on. All I used was a Haynes manual, and some info I gleaned off the net. This is not that hard of a job as long as you have all the tools you need.
So after 4 struts, the $50 for the spring swap and $60 for an alignment, I spent a total of $310 plus some beer money. That's way less than half of what you would pay at a shop.
First off, shop around. I got 4 gr-2's with boots for $200 shipped from Tire Rack. They can also be had for cheap on eBay.
Plan on replacing the 2 strut to steering nuckle bolts in the front, and plan on getting them ahead of time. I couldn't find any the same day I needed them, wish I would've ordered them before I started.
About a week before you start, get a can of PB Blaster and spray the 2 front strut to steering nuckle bolts on each side. Also spray the parallel link bolt, the control arm bolts and the sway bar bolt on each side in the rear. Do this again the day before you start.
The fronts are incredibly simple. It's good to have a helper, as you don't want the steering nuckle to come out to far and mess up your cv joint. Just the 3 bolts up top, and the 2 steering nuckle bolts. That's it.
The rears take a little more time and elbow grease. It's also not completely necessary to take the rotors off. I didn't, and the shop that swapped the springs out didn't mind.
I didn't swap out the springs myself. I paid $50 at a local shop to have them done. They did it in an hour, and it was $50 well spent to me. I don't like messing with springs.
Having never done struts before, it took me about 2 hours to take all 4 off, and 1 1/2 hour to put them all back on. All I used was a Haynes manual, and some info I gleaned off the net. This is not that hard of a job as long as you have all the tools you need.
So after 4 struts, the $50 for the spring swap and $60 for an alignment, I spent a total of $310 plus some beer money. That's way less than half of what you would pay at a shop.
07-20-2007, 07:18 AM
#31
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 55
Its time to do it myself.
Im looking at the complete set of front and rear shocks at
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/i...cted_year=1987
Complete Set Front and Rear
KYB KYB GR2
my question is though , what about the springs? Do I change those since I'm going the non adjustable route?
If so what are the part numbers? Looking at mounts for the KYB is difficult, I see that they are there but the KYB #SM5065 is listed for the stanza which I assume is the same body style from reading other posts.
Do I have to replace the upper mounts? I really dont want to spend too much and with shocks, springs and mounts it is looking to be around $600 for the parts alone. Thats a tad bit more than $60 per wheel.
Im looking at the complete set of front and rear shocks at
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/i...cted_year=1987
Complete Set Front and Rear
KYB KYB GR2
my question is though , what about the springs? Do I change those since I'm going the non adjustable route?
If so what are the part numbers? Looking at mounts for the KYB is difficult, I see that they are there but the KYB #SM5065 is listed for the stanza which I assume is the same body style from reading other posts.
Do I have to replace the upper mounts? I really dont want to spend too much and with shocks, springs and mounts it is looking to be around $600 for the parts alone. Thats a tad bit more than $60 per wheel.
07-23-2007, 09:31 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 110
First off, be sure to shop around. I mean really look around. I got all 4 struts and boots for under 200 from tire rack on closeout. another place that has them reasonably cheap is ajusa.com I think they were cheaper than shock warehouse.
Don't replace the mounts unless they're shot. You shouldn't need to replace the springs either, unless they are severely sagging.
Don't replace the mounts unless they're shot. You shouldn't need to replace the springs either, unless they are severely sagging.
12-26-2007, 07:23 PM
#34
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 73
Hmmmm....I had forgotten about this thread, and I had posted in 10/2006 which was before I got my '88. So, it failed inspection for a leaky front strut and I replaced them myself earlier this year. I had to do the steering arm boots and one axle while I was at it so it was worse than just doing the struts.
One point though - the car had electronic struts and I replaced them with non-electronics. I just ordered them from my local parts shop...don't even remember what brand but they were cheap, ~$50 each.
The worst part of the job was swapping the springs, even with a 'clamshell' style spring compressor I bought. I still had to use the old standard single-bolt style compressors and do them in two steps because the clamshell didn't have enough travel to it (unless I did something wrong). Didn't have to drill out the mounts or anything. Or maybe I did this in a fit of rage at 2AM and don't remember...?
One point though - the car had electronic struts and I replaced them with non-electronics. I just ordered them from my local parts shop...don't even remember what brand but they were cheap, ~$50 each.
The worst part of the job was swapping the springs, even with a 'clamshell' style spring compressor I bought. I still had to use the old standard single-bolt style compressors and do them in two steps because the clamshell didn't have enough travel to it (unless I did something wrong). Didn't have to drill out the mounts or anything. Or maybe I did this in a fit of rage at 2AM and don't remember...?
07-24-2008, 05:46 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 73
I still have 4 - an '88 5-speed with just over 100K miles, an '87 auto with lots of miles and rust (taken off the road recently because it failed inspection), another '87 with a rusty rear end (that I want to 'restore'), and an '86 that doesn't run which I'm planning to part out and/or scrap very soon. I have scrapped 3 already.
I was driving the '88 until recently, but the power steering pump is shot and I haven't had time to swap it out. I'll probably pull it from the '86.
If anyone is looking for parts, let me know. I've been meaning to post a note on this for a while.
I was driving the '88 until recently, but the power steering pump is shot and I haven't had time to swap it out. I'll probably pull it from the '86.
If anyone is looking for parts, let me know. I've been meaning to post a note on this for a while.
03-14-2009, 03:46 PM
#40
Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 73
Haven't been here in a while.... 
My 1988 Maxima failed PA State inspection recently for a bunch of stuff, mostly rotten bushings and a blown rear strut. I think the state is trying to force old cars off the road, they seem to get tougher every year.
Anyway, I already have the new strut inserts for the rear but forgot to order new boots at the same time. They're on the way and should be here Monday so I can put the back end back together.
The problem I'm having right now is the blasted front bushing in the transverse link (control arm). I think the outer metal shell or sleeve is so rusted into the slot in the control arm that it's "become one" with it. Looks to me like I'm either going to have to burn/cut the old ones out or just buy new control arms...I have hammered on them with a matching diameter socket and they won't budge. (The rear ones were easy...) Anyone ever had to replace these before? I found control arms at about $125 each, but I'm already up to almost $500 in parts (shop wanted over $1000, and I'm betting they would have run it up to more like $1500 if I let them do the repairs).
They told my my motor mounts would probably fail next year. My rack seems to be leaking a lot of steering fluid too. I think after this repair I'm going to have to retire from the Maxima repair business. As much as I love my 2nd Gen's it's getting to the point where it's not worth it any more
My 1988 Maxima failed PA State inspection recently for a bunch of stuff, mostly rotten bushings and a blown rear strut. I think the state is trying to force old cars off the road, they seem to get tougher every year.
Anyway, I already have the new strut inserts for the rear but forgot to order new boots at the same time. They're on the way and should be here Monday so I can put the back end back together.
The problem I'm having right now is the blasted front bushing in the transverse link (control arm). I think the outer metal shell or sleeve is so rusted into the slot in the control arm that it's "become one" with it. Looks to me like I'm either going to have to burn/cut the old ones out or just buy new control arms...I have hammered on them with a matching diameter socket and they won't budge. (The rear ones were easy...) Anyone ever had to replace these before? I found control arms at about $125 each, but I'm already up to almost $500 in parts (shop wanted over $1000, and I'm betting they would have run it up to more like $1500 if I let them do the repairs).
They told my my motor mounts would probably fail next year. My rack seems to be leaking a lot of steering fluid too. I think after this repair I'm going to have to retire from the Maxima repair business. As much as I love my 2nd Gen's it's getting to the point where it's not worth it any more