Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

so after checking the 10 pages in the search function under "car start" and seem to have found out what it is but lemme tell you what happened.

i went to the junkyard a coupple days ago because the power steering adjuster pulley was squeaking like crazy, determined it was this pulley bu spraying it with wd40 and it went away for like a min then came back.

so i go there and park with my gf in the car with the radio on, get the pulley put it on and now the car wont start.

towed it home, checked spark from the coil with a timing light, and each injector wire.

checked fuel and pressure turned the key on let the pump prime and disconnected the FPR asnd fuel squrt out. there is one bar left on the fuel guage(about 3-4 gallons in tank) or 1.5 in. in the fuel resivor in the tank running a walboro so thats more than enough.

checked intake manifold for leaks----none

changed the CAS with a newer one and the plate as well.

cleaned the idle control

stripped down the interior pulled all the charging system doided and tested them and still nothing

getting stumped at this point.

checked the CHTS and its got the correct voltage for the temperature

pulled the fuel like at the rail put it into a gas tank turned the key and fuel squrt into it.

all grounds are connected

have an optima red top battery its fully charged

now heres the good part which i think led it to now working..

for a while intermittently the batt light on the dash would light up but verry dimm and stay on. the alternator wont charge until i rev up the engine, it would be at like 10.7 then i rev it up and it will charge to 12.4v before it use to be at 13.1 all the time.

so my questions are....

where in the hell is the link that connects the alternator to the starter

will the alternator being faulty cause the car not to run (because it starts then dies after like 5 seconds. (i personally think that the alternator is jacked)

will the starter cause the car not to run ( for reasons beyond me)

really need help, cant pull codes because i have nistune installed and when its installed you cant use the pentometer because you have to remove it now that im not turbo and i pulled the nistune out and put the nissan map chip back in im am unable to pull codes.

the MAF ive heard that it could be the culprit but then again ive also heard that it will let the car run but not over 3K rpm


could use all the help that you can give only car as of now need it running. thanks!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

you know a ton so its scary if youre stumped lol

definitely change the alternator, late last year i was driving downtown and funky **** was happening in my 3rd gen (radio turned itself on and off, air vents would randomly open/shut, wipers would lag, ABS light was on at times, etc) parked the car for 3 hours, wouldnt start in a tiny *** parking lot in the middle of downtown. got a boost from AMA, went to a garage, bad alty.

i think maybe something is up with your alty, its not fully shot because it turns over for 5 seconds but its near toast IMO

kinda a thought but hows your fuel filter? mine was rusted to **** (really bad, as in when i went for a oil change they thought it was the original fuel filter from 1991) and my 3rd gen would start rough and when i changed it she started fine. maybe your fuel filter is really bad, just a thought lol

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

its a z32 filter and was changed last year, i guess the alty is next on the list though

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

probably is the alty then, if you change the alty and you get the no start still just hope to he11 its not a wiring problem, those can take a loooong time to find

MAX.Graff

Change your alternator. It SHOULD be that.

It's happened to me before where at night the car's lights started dimming slowly but surely. Eventually the car would only stay on if it was reved. The next morning we took out the alty and jiggled it and something was loose bouncin' around inside. So check that thing

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

nope, it is the MAF! i unplugged it and it ran fine until about 2.5K 3K so i was like WTF! then i plugged it back in while the car was idleing and it almost instantly died. replaced it yesterday, charged the car battery drove it today.

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

coupple days later same thing as before, changing alternator.

81Max

Might not be related at all, since my car is a 1st Gen, but whenever I get a severe splash-up in the engine compartment (or wash the engine at the car wash), the engine will would die. It might restart and would idle OK, but would not rev above 1500rpm... then it would die or jerk and almost die. Turned out the engine was regressing to a "safe mode". All I had to do is pull out the underdash computer, then place it immediatly back in and all was good. Has not done it in a few years, but I need to wash the engine soon, so it probably will do it again.

I also had a time when it flat-out died. Would crank but never start. First mechanic had it for 3 months and never fixed it. Second mechanic with a Datsun backround had it fixed in 10 minutes. All he did was clean all the underhood relays. Never died again.

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

interesting ill recheck all of the relays again

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

ok so i changed the alternator and same problem so i said BUMPIT plugged in the nistune, load sensor is all outta wack but everything else is working correctly except for the knock, i dont have a knock sensor so its all outta wack.

the joys of nistune....











little video of it running like crap.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

not to get OT but how much do you really need to know for NisTune? i know a fair bit, and when i get my 3rd gen turbo'd i want to get NisTune but ive heard you can fu*k up everything if you do the settings wrong

EDIT- and would it be possible to use NisTune NA? wont be doing any bolt-on mods or anything, saving $1500-$2000 as spare cash then buying a custom CF parts, rims, springs, and all the turbo stuff so i can do it all at once. could i use NisTune on stock engine and such then reflash after the turbo?

and do you need a CD drive for NisTune or is it a pay-for-download? ive got a desktop with it all but ive got a notebook laptop i bought for NisTune and other random crap, no CD drive. Thanks

81Max

When my 1st mechanic could not find the problem when he hooked the car up to the computer (2nd mechanic does not own a computer!). The computer told him the car's computer was bad. I bought a new computer, didn't help. 4 months of him fiddling did nothing. He leaned too heavily on the diagnostic computer readings.

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

no its a pay download, well you can downlload it but not be able to activate without activation code.

dont know about ****ing it up with the settings, and you can run it on a na motor then just load the turbo map when you want to.


didnt really find out what it was so i just changed both the ecu and maf and now im up and running again.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sweet, good thats its no CD. thanks