maximaniac

I HAVE A 1985 MAXIMA THAT HAS NEW HEADS, INJECTORS, WATER PUMP, & FUEL RAIL. IT HAS A COLD START PROBLEM. IT IS HARD TO START UNTIL IT IS WARMED UP & IT SEEMS TO IDLE TOO LOW. UNTIL IT IS WARM IT STUMBLES A BIT UNTIL I GET PAST ABOUT 1/4 THROTTLE, BUT I HAVE TO FEATHER IT A LOT TO GET IT THERE. I BOUGHT A COOLANT TEMP SENSOR FOR IT BUT HAVE NOT LOCATED IT ON THE ENGINE YET. SOMEONE ELSE TOLD ME THAT ALL 1985 MAXIMAS DIDN'T HAVE THE SAME TYPE SENSOR I BOUGHT. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED, THANK YOU! MAXIMANIAC!

Nismo87SE

My car had the same problem. What you have to do is remove your FICD (Fast Idle Control Device), take it apart and clean it. Over time the electromagnetic plungers get grimed up so it won't idle right when cold. Also I suggest getting a nissan service manual too. BTW you can get 25% off of nissan parts if you order from http://www.courtesyparts.com. Tell them your with the maxima.org club. If cleaning the FICD doesn't work then check your air regulator also.

Guest

You should check your computer codes for possible malfuctioning codes related to TPS or air flow meter. Both components are responsible for rough idling and stumbling.
Codes are 23, and 12 respectively.

69temp

I have the same problem on my '85. Can't get the codes out of the computer because someone (not me) broke the switch. Tried to adjust the screws but did not fix the problem. I will take any ones best guess. First Nissan.

Mr. Blue Sky

iTrader: (1)

my 1986 maxima had a cold idle problem for years. It took a fuel temperature sensor, and a coolant temperature sensor, cylinder head temperature sensor (CHTS), IACV(Intake air control valve), spark plugs, to fix it. Something in the ecu was also fried, because it idled a lot better when I switched it for an ecu I bought from the junk yard. to try and fix it I also switched out a ton of vacuum lines, changed the whole intake plenum(with IACV, etc). any of those can also lead to your problem.

arsonist63086

u might have a leaking rubber intake boot. like in the rib areas of the boot after the mafm

Emerson85maxima

And where is this located at excatly?

thetorp

That was my problem! I just had to tighten the intake tube and all was well!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Water temp sensor def or wiring is defective!

LexAnderson

not much of the tech person, that's why it's a good thing to have a nearby auto repair shop.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That indication of being hard to start when cold is directly connected to your water temp sensor or water temp sensor wiring being faulty.....Once warmed up it's fine right? So start the engine and test that the connector is registering 5V and decreases to 0v as it warms up! I would disconnect the connector at the water temp first and turn on ignition don't start and verify you have 5V @ one pin with the green wire.....You might need to check continuity of the black wire to the ECU pin 30...to verify the signal to returning from the sensor! Or you can check for voltage (5 volts) at pin 28 of your ECU to ground once you start the vehicle, the voltage should be 5V and decrease to 0 volts as it warms up......if it doesn't change you need to start checking continuity for those two wires between the sensor connector and the ecu......GL
P.S. I found a FSM on eBay for $25! I would do this if I were you ...find a Factory used FSM the're dirt cheap and worth ever penny!

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Here you go dirt cheap man!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Nissan-...rature&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Nissan-...rature&vxp=mtr

vernk

pull codes from ECU, if it is your head temp sensor it is on the right head (when looking at the front of engine) behind the timing belt cover under the distributor, it's a pain you will have to break the old one to get a socket on it, then for the new one you have two options, one, file down conector so that it fits in a socket (deep well will not fit in the area) or if you have the tooling cut out inside of socket so sensor fits in. if you are grinding down sensor be sure to leave enough that it will still make contact and has enough for the clip to lock it on. Or you can pull the whole front of your engine apart..... but on the simple side you just might have to set your idle, make sure all your vacum lines are good.....

vernk

if you would like I have a FSM if you need the pages with the codes let me know and I can take pixs of them and send to you....

Parker Corynn

I used to own a 1998 SE (5-spd) and never had any cold starting issues or any other engine problems with it.