Disabling VTC's
 

Has anyone had a problem with disabling their VTC's?? Mine are really ticking me off. So a couple of weeks ago I tried to disable them (per Craig's website) started the car back up after the procedure and let it idle for about a mintue. And the ticking is back again. Seems like it was even worse then before. Any ideas?

get a VG? :grinno:

Pun intended?

I thought about that when I finshied posting this thread. But no. No pun intended. Anybody have a similar experience?

is it coming from the same *area* as the vtcs? (like i know anything about ve s )

I have mine on a switch.
no problems yet.

I think your problem means you really need to get them rebuilt.

I have this terrible feeling that mine are going to be the same way, Shawn!

I'll be happy to rebuild VTCs for anyone interested. The variable timing of the VE is not something to just wire-off : )

now that i got down and dirty with mine i can replace them easily. however i only learned this from breaking mine (damn timing keys....)

How would you suggest doing this long distance??

I just fixed mine tonight. What a relief it was when she ran without a noise. First I added a ground wire per craig's instructions. It worked... Yea! then, just to be sure, I removed the wire (i used a removeble butt connector), and bam... instantly the noise was back - louder than ever. So, being sure that the fix actually worked, I decided to go one step farther. I removed any connector I added during the mod leaving the two exposed wires, cut the yellow wire right before it fed into the plug (leaving as much yellow wire as possible), then I stripped a little off the end and tightened the ground bolt on right over the exposed end. Blam, it worked. Still no nosie, and it looks cleaner IMO without that extra length of wire. Now its wrapped in tape and no one would ever know the wiser.

So what's my point? I learned when I disconnected the ground wire that the noise definitely does come back. Maybe over the last few days your connection came loose under the tape. I suggest checking the ground connection or bypassing the butt connection all together by doing it my way - which seems to leave fewer variables (ie, the yellow wire is directly grounded to the bolt).

Good luck.

Chris

Great... NOW you offer (Having just done mine tonight). Out of curiosity, how do you do it. I assume you have the tools. How much would it cost someone? That is very nice of you.

Indecently, I did take mine for a spin and noticed no performance difference. Would I notice a difference by bypassing it if they had already failed? I guess so if it is an issue with their DISengaging. Any thoughts?

Chris

If you're not very local, i could send you a pair of rebuilt VTCs for much less than the dealer would charge, plus a core. I'd be happy to provide the Technical Service Bulletin on how to rebuild the VTCs, but it requires at least a 2ton shop press and, preferably, a nissan specific pressing tool (however, if you're not working at a dealership, various size impact sockets would also work). I'm fairly certain the TSB is available through the forum.

I would guesstimate that it would take an oil-change level garage hobbyist with basic metric tools roughly a full day (maybe two?) to install both new VTCs. Doing the actual labor isn't so hard, as much as removing the intake and valve covers to expose the engine to just about anything that might fall into the heads. Even with 2 dozen shop rags stuffed into every opening, i still get anxious with wide-open engines. The whole procedure was taught to me in about 3 hours, and i've improved my time after doing it repeatedly since then. Hopefully, when the shop is a little less busy, i can write up a nicely detailed FAQ outlining and illustrating the entire process.

If you needed me to install them, then yes, you'd have to be pretty local, and willing to do without your max for a day or so. I've got VTCs down to about 2 hours for both, including rebuilding them, but as busy as the shop gets, it'd be something i do after work or during off-peak hours. I offer because money is tight, and the quotes some people have stated of $800 (rebuilt, with labor) to $1600 (new, with labor) are utterly silly to me. My cost on brand new VTCs is around $350 each, and i'd be happy to pretty much install them on the dirt cheap side. I also always replace the PCV valve, clean the intake, and clean the EGR when i do VTCs, just as a perk. (i think consumer cost on PCV replacement with labor is something like $200, i'd be more than happy to do it for $20 with the VTCs, as its excellent preventative maintenance).

heres the vtc TSB that i have when i did mine ill leave it up for a few days for you guys...

http://home.comcast.net/~93nissanmaxima/VTCtsb.pdf

Wow guys thanks for all the info.

I just had my VTC's grounded but haven't driven my car since cause clutch went and getting that put in now. The one day I did drive with them grounded they haven't clicked and car seemed to have alot more punch to it. I should have it back by Friday so I'll let you know if the noise comes back. I'm gonna do alot of driving over the weekend to break in the clutch so if its gonna come back I'm sure it will over the weekend. I'll post my results on Monday. Also anyone in the Central Jersey area that needs a clutch and doesn't want to do it yourself the garage down the road from me is cheap as hell only charged me 300 + 45 for shaving flywheel to put it in. I got clutch itself mailorder. Everyone else I went to wouldn't touch the car for less than 600. One guy even asked for 850 just for the labor so I was blessed with finding this guy. If anyone wants his info just send me a pm.