Planning on replacing own VTC's have Q's
 

I have decided to replace my own VTC's. From what I have read on here, 4dsc, and from what I have read in my FSM this is what I need for parts. I do not want to forget to order anything. Here is the list

VTC Sprockets or Rebuild Kit x 2
Valve Cover Gasketx 2 or do I use liquid gasket as the FSM states?
Timing Covers use liquid gasket
Throttle Body Gasketx1
Intake Plenum Gasket x 1

While I'm in there I'm going to replace my knock sensor, and it's subharness so I need these too:
Knock Sensor x1
Knock Sensor Subharness x 1
Intake Manifold Gasket x2

While everything is apart I will replace my spark plugs and fuel filter and rubber fuel lines.

have I forgotten any parts that I would need?

Second, this is how I plan on doing this:

Follow 4dsc writeup on how to remove intake plenum for knock sensor
Remove both valve covers
follow 4dsc writeup to remove all 3 belts.
align crankshaft pullet to TDC by aligning mark on pulley as per the FSM
remove rear upper timing cover
remove AC idler pulley
remove front upper timing cover
remove top chain guides
remove tension on tensioners by following FSM
remove VTC assemblies
Replace new or rebuilt VTC assemblies and align marks in VTC sprockets with the marks on the timing chain.
reapply tension to tensioners.
hand crake it a few times to make sure everything is aligned and not hitting anything
Reinstall everything in reverse following writeups and FSM.

Is that the correct way in going about it? If it is I have a few questions.
When releasing tension and removing the VTC sprockets is there a good way to prevent the chain from coming off the bottom idler sprockets, or is this very unlikely?

Second, how do you to test the condition of the chain tensioners to see if I need new ones?

Thanks for any advice or help

David

And if you've never done the water pump, this is a good time. Also don't forget Jerry Rome Nissan is giving 30% off this month (find the recent thread I had posted).

I too need to do the vtc job, and I'm debating whether or not to buy all the stuff while its on sale.

The valve covers need gaskets. I think its the timming chain covers that require liquid gasket (or RTV silicone).

I'm pretty sure you'll need to remove the main crank pulley, so you need another pulley seal.

Front pulley should not be necessary to remove. The front timing covers have an upper half that can be removed to gain access to the VTC assemblies. Water pump would be a good idea though.

Eric & Jeff,

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I am planning on ordering through Jerry Rome Nissan for the fat 30% off discount. I also have an ASP UDP I have yet to install, so I already have a replacement crank seal.

I don't have to take off the A/C idler pully that's good, less to worry about.

Regarding the water pump, I have read that it is a PITA to remove. People have been recommending slightly jacking up the car to remove it, etc. If I did it now would it be alot easier to install? If it is I will order that too, if not I will chance fate:)

Thanks again

Yes the water pump is a real pain. I was able to get the pump out through the top, it requires rotating the pump (I forget whether its CW or CCW, but by turning it about 90 degrees or so does the trick). So before installing the new pump with fresh silicone, make sure you practice several times the motions required to get it in, otherwise you'll have silicone all over everything :)

Others were able to get it out through the bottom, but the timming marker is in the way, I was unable to pull it out. But through the top worked very well and I reccomend you do it that way.

Dont jack up the engine (it should'nt be necessary anyway), but that would probably ruin the engine mounts.

You can actually pull the cams out and not touch the front covers in any way . remove plenum/valve covers . push tensioners in and flip the little tab to the lock position to hold them . Remove cam bolt in the EX cam . Unbolt cam caps and remove the entire intake camshaft . Repair/replace you vtc and install the cam back in the engine . Much easier alot less headaches . I always mark my cams with oil paint pens on the gears and lobes to make sure they go back in the same way they came out . These are pretty easy to get out of time . I can do a set of VTCs in about 2 hours this way :) Front vtc is about a 20 minute job !!

LOL - if you have any questions email me ive got first hand experience on this subject (and a big boo boo )

Whats so funny ???

my screw up :tardsmash

Wow dude, I feel like I need a cigarette :woot:

hey spddracer, so what do you do to make sure the timming chain doesnt move on the lower gear? (since the timming covers are on you cannot verify that the chain hasn't moved).

Is'nt it pretty critcal when removing the intake cam shaft that nothing moves? how difficult is this part and being able to thouroughly mark everything.

If you mark everything you know where the cam chain and gears are and where they go back on . I always clean the gears and chain with brake cleaner and mark them right thru the teeth and rollers of the chain so I know exactly where they were .I dont think the chain will come off the gear on the bottom with the covers on .. When you mark the lobes this will tell you if the chain has came off the bottom gear because they wont line back up if it did. Its been so long since I have done any vtcs so my specifics are a little vauge . I unbolt the intake cam holders and leave the cam in . then take the ex cam bolt and gear out while holding the chain in my fingers .. Pull the intake cam out and use a bungy cord to hold the chain up so it doesnt move .. Next one I do if I ever do any more I will take pics of the job . If someone needs some done I will do the front for $50 and rear for $150 or $200 for a set + parts and take pics of the process .