Cold Weather = Poor Fuel economy
#1
Cold Weather = Poor Fuel economy
I was wondering if this is common with the max. I have a 92 SE 5 spd. with 98,000 miles. When I first purchased the car this fall I was getting close to 300 miles to a tank of gas. Since it got cold up here in the depths of Canada I have noticed a sharp drop in fuel economy. (down to around 230 miles to a tank).
What should I be expecting for fuel economy on this car?
Is there a valve or something like that that probably needs to be changed due to the mileage on the car that is maybe not functioning properly for the weather conditions?
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
What should I be expecting for fuel economy on this car?
Is there a valve or something like that that probably needs to be changed due to the mileage on the car that is maybe not functioning properly for the weather conditions?
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
#2
it's possible that your Oxygen sensor is dead, but I wouldn't be too sure on that. it may just be due to the extreme cold. the engine has to run a much different fuel/air mix when it's that cold, and it's likely there are also a lot of additives in the fuel to keep it from freezing..
when it warms up, see how the car is doing and you can run some ECU diagnostics on it. I wouldn't bother doign it right now because I'm sure it's a PITA to try to crawl around under the dash and use a tiny screwdriver when it's this cold.
when it warms up, see how the car is doing and you can run some ECU diagnostics on it. I wouldn't bother doign it right now because I'm sure it's a PITA to try to crawl around under the dash and use a tiny screwdriver when it's this cold.
#4
Well depending how long it takes to warm up, you mileage will be worse. ie.. if you take alot of short trips, you car will never get into closed loop mode and will be running the cold start program for most of the time. That will kill mileage.
#7
Originally Posted by wpgmax
I was wondering if ...
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
Short trips with cold tranny, that kills mileage. Handbrake wire harness broken, frozen water in, brakes do not disconnect? Thermostat ok?
I shielded my tranny, engine bay from direct wind. See the next chain above.
#8
Originally Posted by Wiking
Short trips with cold tranny, that kills mileage. Handbrake wire harness broken, frozen water in, brakes do not disconnect? Thermostat ok?
I shielded my tranny, engine bay from direct wind. See the next chain above.
I shielded my tranny, engine bay from direct wind. See the next chain above.
#9
my mileage also got worse when the temps dropped, but when I did my one highway run it got better mileage.
here in the states some places run a winter blend of gas, which hurts gas mileage.
and as jeff said if your trips are short (like mine are) the car never gets into closed loop mode. and mileage suffers.
here in the states some places run a winter blend of gas, which hurts gas mileage.
and as jeff said if your trips are short (like mine are) the car never gets into closed loop mode. and mileage suffers.
#10
Originally Posted by internetautomar
my mileage also got worse when the temps dropped, but when I did my one highway run it got better mileage.
here in the states some places run a winter blend of gas, which hurts gas mileage.
and as jeff said if your trips are short (like mine are) the car never gets into closed loop mode. and mileage suffers.
here in the states some places run a winter blend of gas, which hurts gas mileage.
and as jeff said if your trips are short (like mine are) the car never gets into closed loop mode. and mileage suffers.
wpgmax ---->"My car is a 5 spd"
Dunno what others say, but current synthetic motor oils surpass the gearbox oil specs from 90's so they may be used instead. I have used in my 2gen gearbox synthetic motor oil always and no real change in winter drive mileage.
#11
Originally Posted by Wiking
closed loop mode??? Can you tell me more what this contains?
wpgmax ---->"My car is a 5 spd"
Dunno what others say, but current synthetic motor oils surpass the gearbox oil specs from 90's so they may be used instead. I have used in my 2gen gearbox synthetic motor oil always and no real change in winter drive mileage.
wpgmax ---->"My car is a 5 spd"
Dunno what others say, but current synthetic motor oils surpass the gearbox oil specs from 90's so they may be used instead. I have used in my 2gen gearbox synthetic motor oil always and no real change in winter drive mileage.
I'm assuming the closed loop mode has to do with the Auto tranny?
#12
Originally Posted by Wiking
closed loop mode??? Can you tell me more what this contains?
it ignores the coolant temp sensor and others, in closed look mode
#13
in more understandable terms, the car runs in open loop mode when you first start it..
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
#14
hey fellas, it was cold this morning too in seatown too. my car was all iced up on the outside. i had to warm the the engine up for like ten minutes before driven. there was alot of white smoke extracted from the muffler and like before the smell of gas inside. i do noticed the drop in gas mileage too, but just not that much.
#15
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
in more understandable terms, the car runs in open loop mode when you first start it..
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
#18
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
in more understandable terms, the car runs in open loop mode when you first start it..
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
that is until the engine is warmed up, which the ECU verifies by the coolant temp sensor and an internal timer logging how long the engine has been running.
During this time, the ECU ignores the oxygen sensor and only determines fuel mix by the throttle position sensor, MAF voltage, and a couple other minor factors.
It runs rich during this perios to help the engine warm up faster and to provide smoother running while the engine is cold.
once the engine is warm, it goes into closed-loop mode, where it looks at the oxygen sensor readings as well as other sensors on the engine to provide the best compromise of fuel economy and performance.
Cliff's notes:
open-loop= cold engine, low gas mileage.
closed-loop= warm engine, good gas mileage.
Here in South Africa our VG motors run an ECU with not a single O2 sensor installed as factory standard!
#23
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Matt you never realized that the o2 is really just an extra not needed item that the EPA has foisted upon us for their own gain?
#25
Originally Posted by internetautomar
sorry, but I'd rather tune without it. and have a default open loop configuration that is mapped for my use.
I am sure you would have to agree that the stock ignition/injection maps on these motors are not bad at all and is most likely pretty good - I am quite impressed with my auto V6 showing better open road performance and economy and comfort when compared to a noisy and vibrating and intensely irritating 1600 Golf thats in an equally well-maintained condition.
While I can see the presence of an O2 sensor would insert yet another component in the "closed" loop for both ignition and mixture, the KS basically performs that function on my motor without a O2 sensor present - but only when things go wrong - its therefore not completely an "open loop system" .................... oh and there is feedback from the temp sensor too
#27
Originally Posted by internetautomar
Megasquirt.
Problem solved
Problem solved
Also once you go that route, you couldn't really give a flying pig's fig about the presence or not of a O2 sensor - no?
Later - Well after reading a bit about how Megasquirt goes about the business of causing things to explode it would seem you are not getting your open loop thing done going that route .................
MegaSquirt uses an oxygen sensor as feedback for mixture AFR control. MegaSquirt is compatable with single wire (unheated - like Bosch Part Number 12014, used everywhere ) as well as heated units. All parameters that control the feedback (step size and rate, range, trip threshold voltage) are user-controlled. Additionally, since the trip point voltage is user-defined, MegaSquirt is compatable with the DIY-WB (wideband) oxygen sensor board - one simply sets the desired air/fuel ratio trip voltage and you are there.
#28
Megasquirt is actually WAY more cost effective than replacing your ECU, it's about $200 for the base setup and you can fully tune it from your laptop.
I looked into for another pet project car of mine, but that may just end up with a carb.
EDIT: you can through the software work without the o2, now admittedly the system will function over a broader range eith greater tunability if it is installed vs being omitted.
I looked into for another pet project car of mine, but that may just end up with a carb.
EDIT: you can through the software work without the o2, now admittedly the system will function over a broader range eith greater tunability if it is installed vs being omitted.
#29
There's several reasons for a decrease in gas mileage in the winter:
-Driving in the snow and spinning your tires alot
-Letting your car sit and idle to warm up for extended periods of time
-Like these guys said, different fuel mixtures in the winter
-Possibly lower tire pressure from the cold
It might just be a combination of alot of these things, that is a pretty big difference in gas mileage though, I hope you figure it out.
-Driving in the snow and spinning your tires alot
-Letting your car sit and idle to warm up for extended periods of time
-Like these guys said, different fuel mixtures in the winter
-Possibly lower tire pressure from the cold
It might just be a combination of alot of these things, that is a pretty big difference in gas mileage though, I hope you figure it out.
#30
Hey LvR, do you have any car jacking problems there. I saw that LETHAL anti-carjacking methods are allowed (a.k.a. flame thrower).
back on the subject, if you live in sub-sub-zero temps, you can block off some of the radiator, especially when doing short driving. Just remember to remove it when the weathers warms up.
back on the subject, if you live in sub-sub-zero temps, you can block off some of the radiator, especially when doing short driving. Just remember to remove it when the weathers warms up.
#31
Originally Posted by eric93SE
Hey LvR, do you have any car jacking problems there. I saw that LETHAL anti-carjacking methods are allowed (a.k.a. flame thrower).
"Allowed" does not make it legal - you kill somebody you're screwed - you burn somebody and he takes you to court chances are you will get screwed too.
Flame throwers are the exception I guess - but then again I have never been around a lot of jackings to see what happens.
#32
Yeah thats true, the 3rd gen max is definitly not desirable car for thieves.
I saw a movie the other day where this guy gets car-jacked at gun point, and I'm thinking to my self how easy it would be to setup a stun gun with electrodes attached to the seat, and a second remote to actuate it , how nice it would be to kick the c r a p outta that guy
I saw a movie the other day where this guy gets car-jacked at gun point, and I'm thinking to my self how easy it would be to setup a stun gun with electrodes attached to the seat, and a second remote to actuate it , how nice it would be to kick the c r a p outta that guy
#33
some moving part is stuck or there is a leak from a hose IMHO
If that is really a t° issue and not just something that has started by coincidence when Winter came, I would imagine that a certain moving part in the fuel or air supply systems is stuck when it is cold outside. Do you happen to smell gas in the ducts by any chance? BTW this is not really a cold winter this time, eh?
Originally Posted by wpgmax
I was wondering if this is common with the max. I have a 92 SE 5 spd. with 98,000 miles. When I first purchased the car this fall I was getting close to 300 miles to a tank of gas. Since it got cold up here in the depths of Canada I have noticed a sharp drop in fuel economy. (down to around 230 miles to a tank).
What should I be expecting for fuel economy on this car?
Is there a valve or something like that that probably needs to be changed due to the mileage on the car that is maybe not functioning properly for the weather conditions?
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
What should I be expecting for fuel economy on this car?
Is there a valve or something like that that probably needs to be changed due to the mileage on the car that is maybe not functioning properly for the weather conditions?
By the way it's -22 F here this morning.
#34
Originally Posted by rosamax
There's several reasons for a decrease in gas mileage in the winter:
...
It might just be a combination of alot of these things, that is a pretty big difference in gas mileage though, I hope you figure it out.
...
It might just be a combination of alot of these things, that is a pretty big difference in gas mileage though, I hope you figure it out.
Driving in the snow and spinning your tires alot
---> gas pedal ctrl = drivers personal "problem"
Letting your car sit and idle to warm up for extended periods of time
---> soot buildup plus very hot intake channels warming slow incoming air =less oxygen weight per cubic measure. But... this is same in the summer...
One countering =compensating point is the cold air temp: in winter everyone has "intercooler effect" maximized, more oxygen to burn.
Coarse, studded traction winter tires grow consumption some 5-10% be it cold or not, but otherwise, if one thinks only the after warmup situation, the total consumption should be quite the same as in summer. That is if u build up your engine bay shielded...
During warmup period, tranny needs extra power to turn around.
#35
well, one thing that the 4th gen changed was it added an ambient temp sensor (in the intake stack I believe). Our MAFS need to measure how much air is comming in, but the temperature of that air greatly effects its operation, it does not have a correction for temperature like the 4th gen. This is why we run richer in the winter, the MAFS misreads and tells the ecu that there is a lot of air comming in, mean while its just very very cold air.
#36
Originally Posted by Tarzan
If that is really a t° issue and not just something that has started by coincidence when Winter came, I would imagine that a certain moving part in the fuel or air supply systems is stuck when it is cold outside. Do you happen to smell gas in the ducts by any chance? BTW this is not really a cold winter this time, eh?
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