Car doesn't seem to make power until about 3k RPMs, any ideas?
 

I noticed it seems sluggish and hesitates occasionally up until about 2500-3000 rpms, then you get a little of that "fun factor" :hs:
It probably just needs a really good tune-up, but is there anything in particular I should look for? I think this might have something to do with the apparent crappy gas mileage I'm getting as well.
Thanks for any replies

"It probably just needs a really good tune-up"

Ignition: plugs, REAL wires, cap. KS.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_111_full.jpg

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is your check engine light on?

No, the light isn't on, it just doesn't seem like it has a V6 in it until about 3k rpms.

It might be your knock sensor......

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f4fb5.jsp

"The knock sensor on VG30E engines is located under the rear exhaust manifold."
:vqman:
not back under there
thanks for the replies though...

it could be a injector on its way out happened, the car hesitated when i would start to drive when i hit 40 it was like nothing happened , then one day my muffler started to shake and my check engine light came on, and it was like i was driving on 5 cyclinders

i have the same problem but mine is has the VE motor. i changed the plugs and now using using the NGK iridium but i still have a slight loss of power. every single time that i race i have to rely on top end power otherwise i am screwed. I replaced the Knock Sensor but i still have the same problem. any other suggestions??

start with the obvious.. air filter?

Who can say if it is ok? The only way to make sure, is to tst with a bypass resistor. High octane gas is then must.
All other basic maintenance, is it done?
Test all sensors. Ign timing ok?
Coilpacks leak. Check resistance, clean. If leak suspected, lacquer with electr inulator or just replace.
Cat clogged?
Use seafoam to clean the engine.
Clean THE computer environment, computers decide if u get pwr -or- NOT:
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All these issues &howto -flow on this forum freely
www.autozone.com

thanks for your replies
looks like it is just a bunch of little things i need to clean up, replace, test, etc.
at least it gives me something to do

Yeah, when I bought mine, it was in bad shape, hence the reason is was dirt cheap, but now I've put twice the amount of what I paid into parts and labor and now the car runs and drives wonderful.

-ngk standard spark plugs
-knock sensor
-plug wires
-air filter
-clean maf sensor.

Could be the TPS(Throttle Position Sensor) has gone bad. Causes throttle hesitation from 1000 to 3000 RPM. Check it out.

WHere is this TPS located at on the engine?

Not too sure.. Throttle body?

how should he go about trying to clean the MAF sensor?

There is noThing to clean in MAF, two resistors. Do not do that. Instead - test it. But if its already provenly dead, then chemicals cant kill the resistors.

Throttle Position Sensor senses Throttle Position; surprise. So it has to be near Throttle Body (TB), this is not dependent of car or model.

TPS works for engine control only when cold, 5? first minutes. As system has warmed up, O2 sensor with MAF gives all data ECU needs for ctrl. After this, only TCU (automatic ctrl) uses TPS resistance info to determine gear change point.
TPS: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6


See for VGE TPS & locations:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_43_full.jpg


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Your 1GB sig does not work, ruins page width & opening speed, pls correct that.

I'd start by ripping out that knock sensor. You then have 2 options a) buy $130 dollar sensor and spend TIME, and / or pay someone 2 hours labor to replace, or b) buy 0.97 cent pack of 470k ohm resistors and put one of them between the terminals connecting to the knock sensor that lead to the ecu wiring, use premium gas only and listen carefully for pinging (will have to reatrd timing if it occurs) with option b.

The disadvantage with option (b) is that you waste the other 4 resistor that you bought and this can be traumatizing to the environmentally concious. The disadvantage with option (a) is that is can cost from $130 to $300 dollars, depending on if you do the work yourself.

he has a VG his knocker is only $55 and easy to replace. it's on the back of the motor.

option b is dangerous and irresponsible to advise when you have no clue how it will be used.

You can clean the MAF sensor. Remove it from the air intake housing and spray "Electronic parts cleaner" on it. You can find it at the auto parts store for about $5-$7 a can. (i just used it once and returned it for some air intake cleaner which I needed).