nissan's prices
 

i need a new alternator pulley bcause it has a bad bearing in it. (hold a screwdriver up to it and you can hear the bad bearing) i got it for $60, pep-boys does not sell it. is this a decent price?

If all you need is that part, how about going to a junkyard and getting a used alternator there and just ripping off the pulley?

call alternator rebuild shops. they will generally do them much cheaper on the parts they can get.

ok, thanks, but i was wondering since my car only has 126,XXX on it and most junkers have alot more, wont most of them be bad, or soon to be bad also???

if you have a bad BEARING replacing the pulley won't help
replace the alternators bearing or the whole alternator <- recommended unless you have experience rebuilding alternators
and the alternator front bearing is only like $30

it isnt the actual pulley on the alternator, sorry. it is the pulley tensioner i think its called.....its attatched to a metal plate that you can tighten and loosen the belt with...sorry for the mix-up

you don't have one on the alternator. you have one on the AC compressor belt and the water pump/power steering belt...


you can replace just the bearing in those pullies, but it requires special tools to do it (i.e. hydraulic press). if you don't have one, then just replace the whole thing. only place I've seen that sells the pullies are the dealer, but you might try some other parts stores.

the AC compressor tensioner pulley is about $35, and the power steering/water pump one is about $50.

what kind of screwdriver are you using that can reach the alternator? i believe you are asking about the a/c compressor.

he talking about the idle pulleys for the back and the front,

the one that runs the oil pump/power steering and water pump belts,

and the other one that run a/c compressor and other accessors belts on the front,

here is the pic, the ABS is on the right, so it is right to the left of the ABS (below upper radiator hose)
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...ek/Picture.jpg

i do know that it unbolts from the engine because i took it off when i did the timing belt. ifyou hold a screwdriver up to it (must be touching)and put your ear up to it while the car is running you can hear the bad bearing (hold it to the metal piece that bolts to the block.

A/C idler pulley.

bearing number is 6301LU if you want to replace just the bearing, but again.. you'll need a hydraulic press for it.

Hey matt ..Do you know if the idler pullys are the same for the vg/ve?

ok, i was comfused for a second...that is the air conditioner........the alternator is under the car.....duhh!!!!! thanks guys and sorry for the confusion

It is confuzean compared to 4cyl 1belt... How much simplex/cheaper is my ol tiny one belt opel.

[e.] is AC tensioner, outmost belt [3.] ...(D. is alt)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_396_full.jpg

[4.] steering &wpump tensioner; keep tightened:)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_394_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_401_full.jpg

now when i do this, you just tighten it to what feels good, or what?

- The tightening instructions are detailed in the FSM; check my CD Favorite Links.
- Too slack, and belts melt etc... Too tight, destroy u engine (breaks crank), accessory bearings
- How I do: push liberally with thumb, create 20lb force (me: thinnyskinny). The belt has to bend half inch. Always Listen: no noise, shriek when accel=loose belt. = "what feels good, or what?"

Test points for belt no 1-3
1. Between B.-C. midpoint
2. Between A.-D. midpoint
3. Between A.-e. midpoint

Note: all that info is already available, if u just care to read,
...here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23 == ↓↓↓↓↓

thanks wiking, you are a big help man, along with many other .orgers