Went to the dyno today
#41
Sorry, well i have Ran 19 psi at the track, just ran into clutch slipping problems, Once this Iron/ceramic clutch I've got gets hot its over. I may go to the track in the next few weeks to see if I can get any more out of this clutch before it slips. in the next few months I'm redoing the clutch setup all together. Ive been working with South bend clutch and were going to do a 350z style clutch next time. This winter I've got plans to Totally rebuild my turbo setup. This one is 3 years old and getting tired, plus my fabrication skills have made leaps and bounds lately. Ill make a build thread once i get started with that. should be in the next month or so.
#43
z32 clutches have the same bolt pattern but the alignment pins are different. could be made to work, but south bend clutch owes me a clutch that can handle the power so they decided to set me up with 350z style clutch.
#44
Honestly, I've never hurt a transmission. Ive got 30+ quarter mile runs on this transmission (Vlsd) and my previous trans that i swapped out for the vlsd was in fine condition still and that had been in for 30000 miles boosted with absolutely No problems. Me and Neal are still both in amazement that i haven't ever hurt the transmission yet. More recently i was even doing 6000 rpm clutch drop launches on 26 inch slicks with no problem.. who knows i might just be lucky.
#47
i guess im lucky.. 45k miles boosted always having at LEAST 275 whp usually closer to 350 whp. with not a single trans problem.
#50
I'm on my 2nd tranny, and I drive like a little biotXX b/c I'm sooo afriad to spend any more money on just repairs... The amount I've spend, i could prolly end up looking like 1/8th of maxmaxima91's beast.
#51
#53
376 hp video
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mydyno2ug9.flv
400 hp video
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mydyno1sd5.flv
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mydyno2ug9.flv
400 hp video
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mydyno1sd5.flv
Last edited by maxmaxima91; 11-14-2007 at 10:39 PM.
#55
Awesome! What is the fastest 1/4 mile time for a 3rd gen? You just might be a good candidate, until I come in.
Have you ever thought about upgrading to an automatic tranny?
But for real, great job man!
Have you ever thought about upgrading to an automatic tranny?
But for real, great job man!
#56
my fastest right now is a 12.8 at 114mph with a 2.01 60 ft. but that was only at lower boost. once i get my clutch situation figured out im hopping for a considerably lower time. Ill always have a manual in this car. There Much more fun on the street and.... i dont only go strait line in this car. I love to hit up the road course and an autox from time to time. Autos and road course/ auto x's suck. but yea ill admit. an auto with high power will nearly always be faster than a manual. basically with a manual it comes down to the launching system and how good of a driver you are. Auto on the other hand........ footbrake..... and floor it...
Last edited by maxmaxima91; 11-15-2007 at 11:11 PM.
#59
my fastest right now is a 12.8 at 114mph with a 2.01 60 ft. but that was only at lower boost. once i get my clutch situation figured out im hopping for a considerably lower time. Ill always have a manual in this car. There Much more fun on the street and.... i dont only go strait line in this car. I love to hit up the road course and an autox from time to time. Autos and road course/ auto x's suck. but yea ill admit. an auto with high power will nearly always be faster than a manual. basically with a manual it comes down to the launching system and how good of a driver you are. Auto on the other hand........ footbrake..... and floor it...
At the drag strip, I just hang on to the steering wheel really really tight and floor it. The slicks will either hook or not. If they don't, you have to try to steer the car back to the center of the lane.
It's very possible you can see 1.8s or at least 1.9s with a good launch on slicks. That would make for some interesting times. I would love to line it up with you one day.
But let's not start this debate again about autos and manuals. I found a way to put all the worms back in the can.
#60
I just wanted to stir up something. I was just kidding. I know you can't race on a road course with an auto. That would really suck! That's probably the only thing keeping me from doing autoX or road course racing. Plus, I know I'd be addicted if I tried it and I'd blow up my automatic tranny pretty fast doing it.
At the drag strip, I just hang on to the steering wheel really really tight and floor it. The slicks will either hook or not. If they don't, you have to try to steer the car back to the center of the lane.
It's very possible you can see 1.8s or at least 1.9s with a good launch on slicks. That would make for some interesting times. I would love to line it up with you one day.
But let's not start this debate again about autos and manuals. I found a way to put all the worms back in the can.
At the drag strip, I just hang on to the steering wheel really really tight and floor it. The slicks will either hook or not. If they don't, you have to try to steer the car back to the center of the lane.
It's very possible you can see 1.8s or at least 1.9s with a good launch on slicks. That would make for some interesting times. I would love to line it up with you one day.
But let's not start this debate again about autos and manuals. I found a way to put all the worms back in the can.
#61
o its all good. i know you were just messin. But i totally agree, an auto is better in the strait line, at least once the power starts getting up there. Man to be able to Floor it at the line with one foot on the brake. you can build a lot of boost that way. I on the other hand.. have to blip the throttle at 6000 rpms.. at least untill i can work up some type of line lock. One is in the works, an rpm adjustable spark cut. That should be fun.
#62
yea, that is basically what im working on. steps work real good for boosted applications since they can even build boost sitting at the line.
#63
lean it out.
you're running way to rich.
"it's safe" uh, you're running a fine line of hosing down the cylinder walls with raw fuel and washing away the cute little oil barrier.
you're running way to rich.
"it's safe" uh, you're running a fine line of hosing down the cylinder walls with raw fuel and washing away the cute little oil barrier.
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Maxmaxima91- is that broken/clacking studs I hear in the 400WHP video? The 376 vid sounds GOOD.
And do you think you can do 500WHP with out porting and on this turbo?
Now lets see you beat Niel at the track
~Alex
Last edited by Alex_V; 12-06-2007 at 08:55 PM.
#66
He knows what hes doing, and has something like 50K boosted miles between two engines. 11:1 isn't too rich, its around 10:1 when you get too rich.
Maxmaxima91- is that broken/clacking studs I hear in the 400WHP video? The 376 vid sounds GOOD.
And do you think you can do 500WHP with out porting and on this turbo?
Now lets see you beat Niel at the track
~Alex
Maxmaxima91- is that broken/clacking studs I hear in the 400WHP video? The 376 vid sounds GOOD.
And do you think you can do 500WHP with out porting and on this turbo?
Now lets see you beat Niel at the track
~Alex
#67
Jeremy
o and.. Alex, The noise in the 400hp video isn't the car. its something with the dyno. It showed up on the video but i don't remember hearing it while i was doing it. ... and.. according to the z31guys.. i have alot left in this thing as is.
#68
He knows what hes doing, and has something like 50K boosted miles between two engines. 11:1 isn't too rich, its around 10:1 when you get too rich.
Maxmaxima91- is that broken/clacking studs I hear in the 400WHP video? The 376 vid sounds GOOD.
And do you think you can do 500WHP with out porting and on this turbo?
Now lets see you beat Niel at the track
~Alex
Maxmaxima91- is that broken/clacking studs I hear in the 400WHP video? The 376 vid sounds GOOD.
And do you think you can do 500WHP with out porting and on this turbo?
Now lets see you beat Niel at the track
~Alex
ok.
i'll go play all day long with my 9.5 c/r runnin 19 psi, and 12.3 afr on 91 octane.
i don't know anything. never have.
there is a flaw in your logic. granted all engines {for the most part} work under the same principle. there is a fine line between each one that changes the rules ever so slightly.
put an egt gauge in the car. figure out which chamber runs the hottest, and tune by that chamber. you may get just as much power out of the engine if you drop the boost down a couple lbs, and play with the afr's just a tad.
for the sake of runnin pump gas. put a water injection kit on there. this will drop the chamber temps about 250 degree's. allow you to run a leaner afr, and keep the boost at a safe region.
wanna see if you are hosing the walls down? pull the dipstick after a hard run. if it smells like fuel. you have problems.
#69
lol
ok.
i'll go play all day long with my 9.5 c/r runnin 19 psi, and 12.3 afr on 91 octane.
i don't know anything. never have.
there is a flaw in your logic. granted all engines {for the most part} work under the same principle. there is a fine line between each one that changes the rules ever so slightly.
put an egt gauge in the car. figure out which chamber runs the hottest, and tune by that chamber. you may get just as much power out of the engine if you drop the boost down a couple lbs, and play with the afr's just a tad.
for the sake of runnin pump gas. put a water injection kit on there. this will drop the chamber temps about 250 degree's. allow you to run a leaner afr, and keep the boost at a safe region.
wanna see if you are hosing the walls down? pull the dipstick after a hard run. if it smells like fuel. you have problems.
ok.
i'll go play all day long with my 9.5 c/r runnin 19 psi, and 12.3 afr on 91 octane.
i don't know anything. never have.
there is a flaw in your logic. granted all engines {for the most part} work under the same principle. there is a fine line between each one that changes the rules ever so slightly.
put an egt gauge in the car. figure out which chamber runs the hottest, and tune by that chamber. you may get just as much power out of the engine if you drop the boost down a couple lbs, and play with the afr's just a tad.
for the sake of runnin pump gas. put a water injection kit on there. this will drop the chamber temps about 250 degree's. allow you to run a leaner afr, and keep the boost at a safe region.
wanna see if you are hosing the walls down? pull the dipstick after a hard run. if it smells like fuel. you have problems.
yes, I probably could make the same power by leaning a little and putting in slightly less boost.. But, Its been proven at least in the Honda community and it was taught in the tuning class efi101 that tuning afrs for more power is rarely worth it. your closer to the edge of knock which does not allow you to put near as much boost in... From all of my experience with pushing stock engines, there is more power to be made by running it in the higher 10s afr wise due to the fact that you can throw considerably more boost at it. People have been tuning cars to hight 10 low 11s afrs for a long time with no talk of washing down the cylinder walls. I did six 15 min sessions at Gingerman raceway in MI, at 13 psi and due to time constraints my tune was not "perfect", I had just tuned it to mid 10 if not a tad richer.. and ran it. So of those 15 mins at least 10 were spent running in your "wash down afr" range so.. in that case i would have had lots of gas in my oil if you say that one pull can make it noticeable.. however there was none, i spent nearly 100 miles on the track without problems. To really think that any liquid gas is going to make it down into the crankcase is crazy.. You can keep talking like everything you say is facts. but until you've got actually instances of 10.5 afr washing down cylinder walls... I'm just going to disagree. You can do what works for you.. and ill keep doing what has worked for 50000 plus miles in my car and 100000+ miles in customers cars.
#70
So what do you run. Ive never seen your setup before... Id like to see it.
yes, I probably could make the same power by leaning a little and putting in slightly less boost.. But, Its been proven at least in the Honda community and it was taught in the tuning class efi101 that tuning afrs for more power is rarely worth it. your closer to the edge of knock which does not allow you to put near as much boost in... From all of my experience with pushing stock engines, there is more power to be made by running it in the higher 10s afr wise due to the fact that you can throw considerably more boost at it. People have been tuning cars to hight 10 low 11s afrs for a long time with no talk of washing down the cylinder walls. I did six 15 min sessions at Gingerman raceway in MI, at 13 psi and due to time constraints my tune was not "perfect", I had just tuned it to mid 10 if not a tad richer.. and ran it. So of those 15 mins at least 10 were spent running in your "wash down afr" range so.. in that case i would have had lots of gas in my oil if you say that one pull can make it noticeable.. however there was none, i spent nearly 100 miles on the track without problems. To really think that any liquid gas is going to make it down into the crankcase is crazy.. You can keep talking like everything you say is facts. but until you've got actually instances of 10.5 afr washing down cylinder walls... I'm just going to disagree. You can do what works for you.. and ill keep doing what has worked for 50000 plus miles in my car and 100000+ miles in customers cars.
yes, I probably could make the same power by leaning a little and putting in slightly less boost.. But, Its been proven at least in the Honda community and it was taught in the tuning class efi101 that tuning afrs for more power is rarely worth it. your closer to the edge of knock which does not allow you to put near as much boost in... From all of my experience with pushing stock engines, there is more power to be made by running it in the higher 10s afr wise due to the fact that you can throw considerably more boost at it. People have been tuning cars to hight 10 low 11s afrs for a long time with no talk of washing down the cylinder walls. I did six 15 min sessions at Gingerman raceway in MI, at 13 psi and due to time constraints my tune was not "perfect", I had just tuned it to mid 10 if not a tad richer.. and ran it. So of those 15 mins at least 10 were spent running in your "wash down afr" range so.. in that case i would have had lots of gas in my oil if you say that one pull can make it noticeable.. however there was none, i spent nearly 100 miles on the track without problems. To really think that any liquid gas is going to make it down into the crankcase is crazy.. You can keep talking like everything you say is facts. but until you've got actually instances of 10.5 afr washing down cylinder walls... I'm just going to disagree. You can do what works for you.. and ill keep doing what has worked for 50000 plus miles in my car and 100000+ miles in customers cars.
speaking of tolerances. lets talk piston ring clearance. i for a FACT, that 11.1 afr in my car, which has 27k miles on it, and a lot tighter tolerance levels then your vg ever dreams of, that if you pull the dip stick on one that is runnin 11.1 you WILL smell fuel. go do a hard run in your car. pull the dip stick. im runnin a afr you would cry about, im running a timing level your dreams are made of, and yet. mine is still together. you're looking at me like i don't have a freakin clue what im talking about. try again. im not telling you this because im some sort of god. im telling you this because it WILL cost you another motor, and quite possibly a turbo. do yourself and your engine a favor. put an egt in the car. don't come at me with "i have an afr gauge, im fine". wrong. you can have perfect 11.8 afr and still open a piston like a pop can. why? chamber temperatures.
i don't know everything, but i know enough to know what im doing and where im doing it. im far from new in this game, let alone a maxima world.
wanna know what im runnin? ok, no biggie
here is also an old datalog from said vehicle. i say old because things have changed. since then.
im new to turbo's?
nope.
i helped in the tuning of this car.
#71
I'd have to agree with MaxMaxima91. All I do here at my shop is Boosted cars. They can vary from a 06WRX STI to my Hybrid Camaro with a Buick GN engine in it.
In my Camaro I run 11.3AFR with pump gas. I would not recommend going into the 12's(AFR) with a boosted engine at WOT. My own personal openion from experience and time spent tuning.
In my VG Max that has 237,000mi on the stock engine and 60,000mi on the turbo setup I run low 11afr's at WOT. If I lean it to 11.7's it looses power.
Just my experience.
~Scott
In my Camaro I run 11.3AFR with pump gas. I would not recommend going into the 12's(AFR) with a boosted engine at WOT. My own personal openion from experience and time spent tuning.
In my VG Max that has 237,000mi on the stock engine and 60,000mi on the turbo setup I run low 11afr's at WOT. If I lean it to 11.7's it looses power.
Just my experience.
~Scott
#72
I'd have to agree with MaxMaxima91. All I do here at my shop is Boosted cars. They can vary from a 06WRX STI to my Hybrid Camaro with a Buick GN engine in it.
In my Camaro I run 11.3AFR with pump gas. I would not recommend going into the 12's(AFR) with a boosted engine at WOT. My own personal openion from experience and time spent tuning.
In my VG Max that has 237,000mi on the stock engine and 60,000mi on the turbo setup I run low 11afr's at WOT. If I lean it to 11.7's it looses power.
Just my experience.
~Scott
In my Camaro I run 11.3AFR with pump gas. I would not recommend going into the 12's(AFR) with a boosted engine at WOT. My own personal openion from experience and time spent tuning.
In my VG Max that has 237,000mi on the stock engine and 60,000mi on the turbo setup I run low 11afr's at WOT. If I lean it to 11.7's it looses power.
Just my experience.
~Scott
#73
i honestly believe id have a better chance of trying to teach hellen kellar how to use a speak and spell.....
#74
Give up, Bryan. these guys know everything and can't learn from anyone- especially an OG that moved on to cars with more potential than a Maxima..
FYI, guys.. In the ~8 years I've known him, Bryan has owned/raced/built more cars than most of you kids have even seen under the hood.. I know he's owned 8 that I can count right off hand from memory, and all of them were 12sec or faster cars. he didn't just go to school and read a book published by EFI101. he's spent years working in dyno shops tuning the cars that the EFI101 originators learned from.
FYI, guys.. In the ~8 years I've known him, Bryan has owned/raced/built more cars than most of you kids have even seen under the hood.. I know he's owned 8 that I can count right off hand from memory, and all of them were 12sec or faster cars. he didn't just go to school and read a book published by EFI101. he's spent years working in dyno shops tuning the cars that the EFI101 originators learned from.
#75
first off. your car is NOT a honda. you do NOT have the tolenrence levels that are required to be even close to a honda, nor do you flow the cfm from both your heads that a honda does.
speaking of tolerances. lets talk piston ring clearance. i for a FACT, that 11.1 afr in my car, which has 27k miles on it, and a lot tighter tolerance levels then your vg ever dreams of, that if you pull the dip stick on one that is runnin 11.1 you WILL smell fuel. go do a hard run in your car. pull the dip stick. im runnin a afr you would cry about, im running a timing level your dreams are made of, and yet. mine is still together. you're looking at me like i don't have a freakin clue what im talking about. try again. im not telling you this because im some sort of god. im telling you this because it WILL cost you another motor, and quite possibly a turbo. do yourself and your engine a favor. put an egt in the car. don't come at me with "i have an afr gauge, im fine". wrong. you can have perfect 11.8 afr and still open a piston like a pop can. why? chamber temperatures.
i don't know everything, but i know enough to know what im doing and where im doing it. im far from new in this game, let alone a maxima world.
speaking of tolerances. lets talk piston ring clearance. i for a FACT, that 11.1 afr in my car, which has 27k miles on it, and a lot tighter tolerance levels then your vg ever dreams of, that if you pull the dip stick on one that is runnin 11.1 you WILL smell fuel. go do a hard run in your car. pull the dip stick. im runnin a afr you would cry about, im running a timing level your dreams are made of, and yet. mine is still together. you're looking at me like i don't have a freakin clue what im talking about. try again. im not telling you this because im some sort of god. im telling you this because it WILL cost you another motor, and quite possibly a turbo. do yourself and your engine a favor. put an egt in the car. don't come at me with "i have an afr gauge, im fine". wrong. you can have perfect 11.8 afr and still open a piston like a pop can. why? chamber temperatures.
i don't know everything, but i know enough to know what im doing and where im doing it. im far from new in this game, let alone a maxima world.
If you think I'm new to this game also i'm not, I don't post much but i have been doing this for a living for the last 5 years. The reason i brought up efi101 is because it is ran by some of the best boost tuners around, and on a load bearing dyno they displayed how little power is made from leaning afrs. On to the honda part, we've built both honda and nissan engines in our shop, the tolerances on VGs are considerably tighter than those of the hondas we build. nearly every tolerance in the book is tighter. What i am speaking of is what i have learned from my experience, Not just my reading.. Ive seen many engines pop because they were ran to lean. that or there just not making power they should because they have so little timing being thrown at them to resist detonation at that afr (and thats dangerous to). If all what your saying is right shouldn't we be hurting things, spinning bearings from having so much gas in our oil, wrecking cylinder walls.. something? We have always tuned are cars for high 10s, low 11s. and never had such a problem. you can say I'm wrong all you want but until our methods quit working I'm just going to stick with them. There are enough people making good power out of stock engines that have the same tuning theory as i do to make me believe that there is something to this. Your telling me that I'm acting like I'm saying you don't know what your talking about.. but your the one who started this argument, in my thread of a stock VG making 400 whp. your the one acting like i don't know what I'm talking about. Do i know all the best ways of tuning... no, but when you came into this thread and told me what i was doing was wrong i defended myself.
#77
Give up, Bryan. these guys know everything and can't learn from anyone- especially an OG that moved on to cars with more potential than a Maxima..
FYI, guys.. In the ~8 years I've known him, Bryan has owned/raced/built more cars than most of you kids have even seen under the hood.. I know he's owned 8 that I can count right off hand from memory, and all of them were 12sec or faster cars. he didn't just go to school and read a book published by EFI101. he's spent years working in dyno shops tuning the cars that the EFI101 originators learned from.
FYI, guys.. In the ~8 years I've known him, Bryan has owned/raced/built more cars than most of you kids have even seen under the hood.. I know he's owned 8 that I can count right off hand from memory, and all of them were 12sec or faster cars. he didn't just go to school and read a book published by EFI101. he's spent years working in dyno shops tuning the cars that the EFI101 originators learned from.
if afr wasn't so important and yielded so little in power gains, why is it i can go from 11.1 to 12.3 afr and pick up 25 whp? hell a car i tuned picked up over 40 whp from just afr tweaking. damn, i guess afr doesn't pick up any power. ::shrugs:: who knew. thank you ole wise tuner of the great masterful efi relm. i guess i can shut my eyes to anyone who is willing to give me a hand in suggesting i try something new.
i wasn't attacking anyone, i mearly made a simple suggestion, you are the one who went and got your **** bent in 40 different directions about it.
#78
This is so typical maxima.org.. someone post what they done with there car then someone steps in and say there doing it wrong. Then when the person tries to defend themselves they are flamed and told they they wouldn't listen to the people who are smarter then them , That the person with more experience than them is never even the slightest bit wrong. and if you dont listen to them.. your an idiot. Then matt93 comes in and does some sortof useless comment to defend the guy he knows and make the other person out to be ignorant. that is why the smartest people on this forum .. rarely post.
#79
bryan your the one who came in here and told me i was doing it wrong. you didnt make suggestion. you flat out said.. "your to rich" i guess your experience means everything and mine means nothing. o well
#80
This is so typical maxima.org.. someone post what they done with there car then someone steps in and say there doing it wrong. Then when the person tries to defend themselves they are flamed and told they they wouldn't listen to the people who are smarter then them , That the person with more experience than them is never even the slightest bit wrong. and if you dont listen to them.. your an idiot. Then matt93 comes in and does some sortof useless comment to defend the guy he knows and make the other person out to be ignorant. that is why the smartest people on this forum .. rarely post.
there is a saying, been there, done that.
i never said you were an idiot, get that thought of your head. then again, what do i know.
p.s. the smartest people on this forum don't post, because they moved on to better things.
the only thing you need to do, is put an egt gauge in there. why? it's simple. they show a lot more than just cylinder temps.